The present invention relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing.

Climbing is a widespread sport and is played not only on natural rock walls, but also on artificial walls in special gyms, either outdoors or indoors. Sport climbing is a sporting discipline wherein the athlete has to climb an artificial wall on which shaped elements or grips are attached.

The climber is belayed through a rope which is tied at his harness at an end; the rope is belayed in one or more belay points (also called "quickdraws") along a path on the wall (also called "pitch"); the opposite end of the rope, and the excess rope, is on the ground (or in any case in a stable point, in the case of outdoor climbing).

In the case of "lead climbing", it is the climber himself who belays the rope in the succeeding belay points, sometimes even attaching them himself to the wall. In the case of "second climbing" or "top-rope climbing", the rope has already been belayed to the topmost belay point of the wall, called "range", and the climber during ascent is belayed to one of the two branches of the rope that the range deflects downwards.

In both cases, in case accidental loss of grip on the wall or when the climber comes off voluntarily, the climber remains suspended, through the rope, at the topmost belay point, or in any case the last in the "pitch", provided that the rope is suitably held from the ground, on the side of its opposite end. To limit the height of the fall and consequently the rate of fall, it is advisable that the rope is always taut or that in any case the length of the slack rope is short, just enough to allow the maneuvers of the climber.

A partner on the ground (or at the stable point), also called "belayer", gives rope from a skein on the ground, or takes the excess rope, wrapping it into a skein (or letting it fall in disorder) as needed. In the event of a fall, the belayer immediately blocks the rope and thus the fall, sometimes being lifted off the ground and acting as a counterweight to the climber. The belayer also carries out the descent of the climber at the end of the climb. The role of the belayer is fundamental and requires constant attention and considerable experience. The rope is secured to the belayer's harness through a mechanical belaying device that is passed through by the rope, allows the rope to be slid by the belayer, and automatically stops the movement of the rope in case of sudden stress.

US 7,845,467 B2 (published as US 2007/0215411 Al) discloses a belaying device for a rope intended solely to be attached to the harness of an athlete who plays as a belayer. The device comprises a cam able to rotate between a position for securing the rope by jamming effect against a stud, and a separated position allowing the rope to run freely in the gap between the cam and the stud.

DE10048046A1 discloses a device for belaying a climbing rope, for gyms, which plays the role of belayer on the ground, avoiding the need for a belayer person. The belaying device comprises a blocking device remotely controlled by the climber. There may be a brake that prevents a rope speed higher than a threshold, so that when the climber does not support himself at the wall, he is slowly lowered. In one mode, the climber may only control winding/unwinding of the rope; in another mode, he may obtain a length of slack rope by remaining suspended on the wall while pressing the push button to actuate unwinding of the rope, in order to make difficult passages uphill without the need to overcome the rope traction force. The climber may also remain suspended to the rope in order to rest. According to the document, the device has several advantages, among which the fact that it rolls up the rope, thus avoiding dangerous heaps on the ground, and the fact that, by protecting it, it reduces its wear. On the other hand, the Applicant observes that the remote actuation does not offer an adequate safety, and rather diverts the climber's attention.

EP2359911A2 also discloses a belaying device for climbing which plays the role of the belayer on the ground. The device comprises a return pulley for a climbing rope (not a winding/unwinding drum) coupled to a motor drive cooperating with a braking device. The braking device comprises two actuating devices connected to each other, but independently actuatable. The first one is preferably an electric motor, but it can be of a mechanical type; the second one acts based on the rotation speed and is preferably of the centrifugal force type. A remote control is also provided for, in order to switch between: a mode, useful for climb, wherein the brake does not act onto the rope except in the event of a fall; a mode, useful for controlled descent, wherein there is a braking effect; and a mode, useful for example in the case of a break while suspended, wherein the rope is totally blocked.

Also in this case, the Applicant observes that the remote actuation does not offer an adequate safety, and rather diverts the climber's attention. Furthermore, the braking device acts only indirectly on the return pulley and even more indirectly on the rope.

Document FR 2 727 026 A1 discloses a climbing belaying device, comprising: a frame, a rotating drum supported by the frame, a motor for rotating the drum, a rope or cable a first end of which is for attachment to the drum, and which winds onto the drum, and the other end of which is for attachment to a climber, stock means for a stock rope length variable between a minimum stock length and a maximum stock length, while preserving a proper tension on the rope, means for detecting the stock length, suitable to provide signals that command rotation of the motor to wind or unwind, respectively, the rope when the stock length is greater than the maximum stock length or smaller than the minimum stock length, and to stop the motor when the stock length has a proper value. The stock means may comprise an arm articulated at a first end about a stationary axis having a return guide at the opposite end, the arm being pivotable against the gravitational force between a bottom end position corresponding to the maximum stock length and a top end position corresponding to the minimum stock length; in another embodiment the arm is pivotal against the action of elastic return means.

The means for detecting the stock length comprise three "detecteur de position de bras" (arm position detectors), each of which is, as matter of fact, a detector of the passage of the arm through a respective preset position.

In order to more quickly stop the motor when the arm is in the intermediate position, there may be an electromagnetic brake acting onto the motor. So, from an intermediate position of the arm with the motor stopped, when the climber ascends, the stock length of the rope increases, and the arm drops until it is detected by the corresponding detector, which actuates the motor to wind the rope, causing the arm to rise again, what stops the motor. When the climber descends or falls, he draws the rope and the arm rises to the uppermost position, that is detected by the corresponding detector, which actuates the motor to unwind the rope, causing the descent of the climber at low speed down to the ground. When he is on the ground, the arm drops again in the waiting position, and the motor stops. There may be a fourth detector to increase safety, which detects the fall of a second length of arm if the dedicated detector did not work.

The Applicant observes that the operation of the apparatus is not particularly versatile. Furthermore, the brake is of an electromagnetic type, requiring an actuation signal, and acts on the motor, rather than directly onto the rope.

The general technical problem underlying the invention is to provide a belaying apparatus for sport climbing which is particularly versatile and reliable and does not require actuation by the climber.

In an aspect, the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing, comprising a winding/unwinding drum for a climbing rope; motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof (of the drum); a braking device; a detector device; and a controller intended to receive the output of the detector device and control the motor means based at least thereon, characterized in that the braking device and the detector device are combined in a single detector and braking assembly through a shared element that defines both a braking surface and an element responsive to movements of the rope.

Preferably, said shared element is a mobile element configured to be partly surrounded by a bend of rope, wherein the mobile element is subject to a traction stress by the bend of rope and to a return stress, wherein when the traction stress prevails over the return stress, the mobile element moves towards an abutment, at end of stroke determining with the abutment a gap for clamping the rope.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably, said detector device comprises a transducer that detects the position of said mobile element.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the abutment has a braking surface tilted downwards, preferably lying in a plane forming an angle comprised between 50° and 70° with a vertical direction.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the return stress comprises a stress generated by elastic return means and/or at least one component of the gravitational force and/or at least one component of a reaction force to a friction force generated by clamping the rope within said gap.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the detector and braking assembly comprises elastic return means configured to perform one or more, and preferably all, of the following functions:

- define at least one component of the return stress,

- limit or contribute to limit the clamping force of the rope within the gap, and

- allow a threshold value of said detector device to be defined, for discriminating between a traction stress by the bend of rope representative of a first operating condition and a traction stress by the bend of rope representative of a second operating condition, wherein preferably the first operating condition is a condition of fall of a climber secured to an end of the rope, and the second operating condition is a voluntary movement of the climber.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the mobile element and/or the abutment are oblong so as not to define a single mandatory path for the rope, wherein preferably the length of mobile element and/or of abutment substantially corresponds to the length of the drum.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the gap has a minimum size so sized, with respect to the diameter of the rope for which the apparatus is intended, as not to completely block the sliding of the rope. Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the braking device is configured so that the tension generated in the rope during a fall of a climber secured to an end of the rope acts in a larger percentage on braking device and in a smaller, but preferably non-null, percentage on drum.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably, along the path of the rope, there follow one another: the drum, any optional rope guide-tensioner assembly, the braking device, the detector device.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the drum is hollow and the motor means and/or the controller are internal to the drum.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the apparatus further comprises a rope guide-tensioner assembly configured to tension a length of rope adjacent to a length of rope wound onto the drum, wherein preferably the rope guide-tensioner assembly comprises a driven wheel driven by the controller at a different speed from that of the motor means, more preferably wherein the driven wheel is driven at a comparatively low speed when the motor means make the drum rotate in the winding direction, and at a comparatively high speed when the motor means make the drum rotate in the unwinding direction

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the rope guide-tensioner assembly comprises a tensioner device mobile with a reciprocating motion along a direction parallel to an axis of the drum, and controlled in a coordinated manner with the drum, wherein preferably tensioner device is mobile with a reciprocating motion along a self-reversing screw, said self- reversing screw being connected with the drum through a belt transmission.

In an aspect, the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a process for belaying a climber, comprising the not necessarily sequential steps of:

- securing an end of a rope to a climber,

- securing an opposed end of the rope to a winding/unwinding drum set into rotation by motor means,

- providing an intended path for a length of rope,

- detecting movements of the rope within the intended path, - driving the motor means based at least on the detected movements, and

- braking the rope within the intended path.

In the present description and in the attached claims, under the expression "detecting movements of the rope", it is meant to detect or monitor, continually over time or at a high enough frequency with respect to the voluntary and involuntary movements of the climber, whether there is a movement of the rope, in particular a longitudinal displacement; it is also meant to detect the extent thereof in an analogic manner or in any case with a sufficiently high resolution with respect to the voluntary and involuntary movements of the climber.

Preferably, the steps of:

- detecting movements of the rope within the intended path,

- driving the motor means based at least on the detected movements, comprise the steps of:

- allowing the length of the intended path to vary in a manner correlated with longitudinal displacements of the rope,

- detecting the length of the intended path,

- driving the motor means based at least on the detected length of the intended path.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably said steps are performed through the not necessarily sequential steps of:

- providing a braking device comprising: a mobile element having a stroke, and an abutment at an end of stroke,

- passing the rope between the abutment and the mobile element,

- turning the rope about the mobile element for an angle less than a perigon, forming a bend of rope, preferably an angle comprised between 90° and 270°, more preferably an angle comprised between 150° and 210°,

- securing the rope, upstream of passage between the abutment and the mobile element, to a winding/unwinding drum set into rotation by motor means,

- securing the rope, downstream of the bend of rope, to a climber, - detecting the position of the mobile element, and

- driving the motor means based at least on the detected position, whereby in case of fall of the climber, the traction by the bend of rope urges the mobile element against the abutment and brakes the length of rope interposed therebetween.

In an aspect, the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing, comprising a winding/unwinding drum for a climbing rope; motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; a detector device; and a controller intended to receive the output of the detector device and control the motor means based at least thereon, characterized in that the detector device comprises an intended path for a length of rope, the path having a variable length correlated with longitudinal displacements of the rope, and emits a control variable representative of the path length, and wherein the controller is configured to control the motor means, in rotation direction and speed, based at least on the value of the control variable.

In the present description and in the attached claims, under the expression "to control in rotation direction and speed" it is meant to indicate that the controller not only establishes whether the motor means are switched off or on, rather also establishes the extent of the motor means drive signal, and thus the absolute value of the rotation speed, based at least on the value of the control variable.

Preferably the controller is configured to control the motor means, in rotation direction and speed, further based on at least one value, preceding in time, of the control variable and/or on the elapsed time.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the controller is configured to control the motor means according to a law other than a linear function and a piecewise linear function of the control variable. However it is not excluded that the controller may follow a linear function or a piecewise linear function in one or more ranges of the control variable and/or in one or more operating modes. Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the controller is configured to carry out at least one, and more preferably at least two, operating modes selected from the group consisting of: a mode handling the progression of a climber, a mode handling the fall and/or suspension to rope of a climber, a mode handling a quick draw of rope by a climber, and preferably is configured to further carry out at least one auxiliary mode.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably, the controller is configured to select the operating mode to be carried out based on the control variable and possibly on a value thereof preceding in time and/or on elapsed time.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably, in an operating mode handling the fall of a climber, the controller is configured to control the motor means according to a predefined behavior over time, comprising an initial, comparatively high unwinding speed and, immediately thereafter, a deceleration down to a comparatively low winding speed.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the controller is configured to limit, at least in an operating mode handling the progression of a climber, acceleration of the motor means to an acceleration comprised in the range between 3 m/s ² and 7 m/s ² , more preferably in the range between 4 m/s ² and 6 m/s ² , even more preferably equal to 4,8 m/s ² .

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably, the detector device comprises a mobile element, preferably mobile in a substantially vertical direction, configured to be partly surrounded by a bend of the rope, wherein the mobile element is subject to a traction stress by the bend of rope and to a return stress, and wherein said detector device comprises a transducer that detects the position of said mobile element.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the apparatus further comprises elastic return means configured to:

- define at least one component of the return stress and/or

- allow a threshold value of said detector device to be defined, for discriminating between a traction stress by the bend of rope representative of a first operating condition and a traction stress by the bend of rope representative of a second operating condition, wherein preferably the first operating condition is a condition of fall of a climber secured to an end of the rope, and the second operating condition is a voluntary movement of the climber.

Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the mobile element is oblong so as not to define a single mandatory path for the rope, wherein preferably the length of mobile element substantially corresponds to the length of drum.

In an aspect, the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a process for belaying a climber, comprising the not necessarily sequential steps of:

- securing an end of a rope to a climber,

- securing an opposed end of the rope to a winding/unwinding drum set into rotation by motor means,

- providing an intended path for a length of rope,

- allowing the length of the intended path to vary in a manner correlated with longitudinal displacements of the rope,

- detecting the length of the intended path,

- driving the motor means, in rotation direction and speed, based at least on the detected length of the intended path.

Preferably said steps are performed through the not necessarily sequential steps of:

- providing a detector device comprising a mobile element,

- turning the rope about the mobile element for an angle less than a perigon forming a bend of rope, preferably an angle comprised between 90° and 270°, even more preferably an angle comprised between 150° and 210°,

- securing the rope, upstream of the mobile element, to a winding/unwinding drum set into rotation by motor means,

- securing the rope, downstream of the mobile element, to the climber,

- detecting the position of the mobile element, and

- driving the motor means, in rotation direction and speed, based at least on the detected position. In another aspect, the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing, comprising a winding/unwinding drum for a rope; optional motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; a braking device; an optional detector device; and an optional controller intended to receive the output of the detector device and control the motor means based at least thereon; wherein the braking device has a pair of oblong braking surfaces so as not to define a single mandatory path for passage of the rope. Preferably the length of the braking surfaces substantially corresponds to the length of the drum.

In another aspect, the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing, comprising a winding/unwinding drum for a rope; motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; a braking device; a detector device; and a controller intended to receive the output of the detector device and control the motor means based at least thereon; wherein the braking device is of a mechanical type and directly acts onto the rope through friction, having two braking surfaces subject to a relative motion towards and away from each other, wherein during the approaching motion a gap is formed wherein the rope is tightened with increasing force. Preferably the gap has a minimum size so sized, with respect to the rope diameter, as not to completely block the sliding of the rope. Alternatively or additionally thereto, preferably the braking device is configured so that the tension that is generated in the rope during a fall of a climber secured to an end of the rope acts in a larger percentage on braking device and in a smaller, but preferably non-null, percentage on the drum.

In another aspect, the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing, comprising a winding/unwinding drum for a rope; optional motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; a braking device; an optional detector device; and an optional controller intended to receive the output of the detector device and control the motor means based at least thereon; wherein the braking device has a stationary braking surface and a braking surface mobile towards and away from the stationary braking surface, wherein the stationary braking surface is tilted downwards, preferably lying in a plane forming an angle comprised between 50° and 70° with a vertical direction.

In another aspect, the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing comprising, in this order along the path of a climbing rope: an winding/unwinding drum of a rope, provided with motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; an optional rope guide-tensioner assembly; a braking device; a detector device for providing a signal to a controller provided for controlling the motor means.

In another aspect, the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing comprising: a winding/unwinding drum of a rope, provided with motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; an optional rope guide-tensioner assembly; an optional braking device; a detector device; and a controller intended for receiving the output of the detector device and for controlling the motor means based at least thereon, wherein the winding/unwinding drum is hollow and the motor and/or the controller are internal to the winding/unwinding drum.

Further inventive aspects of the subject-matter disclosed herein, or invention, are indicated hereinbelow in the present disclosure.

Further features and advantages of the present invention will be more clearly apparent from the following detailed description of some preferred embodiments thereof, made with reference to the attached drawings, wherein:

- FIG. 1 is a block diagram of a belaying apparatus according to an aspect of the subject-matter disclosed herein,

- FIG. 2 is an isometric view of the apparatus according to an embodiment, with a cover thereof shown as if it were transparent,

- FIG. 3 is an exploded view of a frame thereof,

- FIG. 4 is an isometric view of a cover thereof,

- FIG. 5 is a partially exploded and partially cutaway view of an assembly of components thereof,

- FIG. 6 is a partially exploded view of another assembly of components thereof, - FIG. 7 is a partially exploded view of still another assembly of components thereof,

- FIGs. 8 and 9 are diagrammatic sectional views across two components of the apparatus,

- FIGs. 10-14 are flowcharts of some exemplary operating modes of the apparatus or, respectively, exemplifying a process according to an aspect of the subject-matter disclosed herein, and

- FIG. 15 is a diagrammatic representation of some curves useful for understanding the operation of the apparatus.

For the sake of clarity, in the various figures, detail elements such as screws, bolts, cotter pins, electrical connections etc. are not shown.

Terms "rear", "front", "horizontal", "vertical", "upper", "lower", their derivatives and similar terms are relative terms used with reference to the orientation of the apparatus shown in the drawings, but the apparatus does not necessarily have to be operated in such an orientation. The terms "proximal" and "distal" are used to mean closer to the center of the apparatus and further away therefrom, respectively.

FIG. 1 is a block diagram of a belaying apparatus 1, in particular for sport climbing, according to an aspect of the subject-matter disclosed herein.

In some aspects, the subject-matter disclosed herein finds an application in fields other than sport climbing.

Belaying apparatus 1 comprises a winding/unwinding drum 2 for a rope C; a motor 3 intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; a rope guide- tensioner assembly 4; a braking device 5; a detector device 6; and a controller 7.

Controller 7 is intended i.a. to receive the output of the detector device 6 and to control the motor means 3 based at least thereon.

An aspect of the subject-matter disclosed herein, or invention, relates to the entire belaying apparatus. Other aspects of the subject-matter disclosed herein relate to the individual components, devices and assemblies of the apparatus, as well as some combinations thereof. For the sake of brevity, the various aspects are discussed in detail, and secondary, optional and/or preferred features thereof are indicated with reference to the apparatus, which represents the most complex aspect among the various aspects.

According to which aspect of the subject-matter disclosed herein is considered, some of the aforementioned components, devices and assemblies may be missing. For example, the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 is optional; the drum 2 may be missing or replaced by a rope deflecting device. The motor 3 and/or the controller 7 may be missing when the considered aspect does not require motorization of the drum or deflecting device, or when the motorization does not require an intelligent control.

Moreover, preferably the rope is a dynamic rope, namely it is elastic enough to stretch when subjected to a load, so as to ensure a high resistance to braking and allow a gradual deceleration instead of giving a "jerk" on the athlete and/or on the hooks or carabiners attached to the wall in case of a fall.

Under term controller 7 a logical unit is meant, which may be embodied by a single electronic device or by more electronic devices. Controller 7 may in particular comprise a microprocessor.

Term "motor" is used in a broad meaning to indicate motor means comprising one or more electric motors and possibly a transmission. Winding/unwinding drum 2 and motor 3 are preferably combined and in any case are sometimes referred to as a whole as motor - drum assembly 8.

Braking device 5 and detector device 6 are preferably combined and in any case are sometimes referred to as a whole as detector and braking assembly 9.

Preferably, and as will be better understood below, braking device 5 and detector device 6 are combined in a single detector and braking assembly 9 through a shared element that defines both a braking surface and an element responsive to movements of the rope C.

An end of rope C is suitably attached to drum 2 and the other end of rope C is suitably attached, in use, to a climber A, for example to his harness. The apparatus 1 may be marketed without the rope C or provided with the rope C, that in any case may be replaced as needed, for example when worn out, or when desired.

The motor - drum assembly 8 is provided for in order to provide the climber A with a length of rope C adequate to the need at each time, as well as to keep the non-used length of rope C tidy wound, both during use and preferably also at rest.

The rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 is provided for, optionally, in order to maintain the desired tension in the length of rope C wound onto the drum 2 and/or in order to accompany it along the length of the drum 2 during winding and unwinding.

Braking device 5 is provided for selectively braking (namely, in order to have a non-braking condition and at least one braking condition) the rope C.

Braking device 5 is preferably of a mechanical type and directly acts onto the rope C through friction, having two braking surfaces subject to a relative motion towards and away from each other, wherein during the approaching motion a gap is formed wherein the rope is tightened with increasing force.

In braking device 5, according to a preferred embodiment of the subject- matter disclosed herein, the gap has a minimum size so sized, with respect to the diameter of rope C, as not to completely block the sliding of rope C. Just by way of an example, in the case of a standard rope with a diameter of 10 mm, the minimum size of the gap may be comprised between 6 and 8 mm, preferably comprised between 6,2 and 7,5 mm, even more preferably it may be 6,7 mm.

Braking device 5, according to a preferred embodiment of the subject- matter disclosed herein, is configured so that the tension that is generated in rope C during a fall of climber A acts in a larger percentage on the braking device 5 and in a smaller, but preferably non-null, percentage on the drum 2.

Braking device 5 has, according to a preferred embodiment of the subject-matter disclosed herein, a self-release feature.

Braking device 5, according to a preferred embodiment of the subject- matter disclosed herein, has a pair of oblong braking surfaces, extending over a length greater than the diameter of rope C, so as not to define a single mandatory path for the passage of rope C. This allows rope C to be braked whatever its point of departure from drum 2 and/or whatever the position of climber A with respect to apparatus 1. Furthermore, this allows to increase the dissipated friction, avoiding an overheat of braking device 5. Preferably the length of the braking surfaces substantially corresponds to the length of drum 2.

Detector device 6 is provided for in order to detect the actions of the climber A as transmitted by rope C.

Detector device 6 may detect movements of rope C within an intended path for a length of rope C. The length of the path may be allowed to vary in a manner correlated with longitudinal displacements of rope C. Detector device emits a control variable representative of the path length.

According to a preferred embodiment of the subject-matter disclosed herein, detector device 6 comprises a mobile element configured to be -and which in use is- surrounded in part by a bend of rope C, wherein the mobile element is subject to a traction stress by the rope bend and to a return stress, which determine the possible displacement of the mobile element. In this manner, the displacement of a length of rope C within the apparatus 1, consequence of voluntary or involuntary climber movements, is transduced, in a constructively very simple manner, with the advantage that the weight that the climber A perceives when he voluntary draws the rope C is only that of rope C and of the mobile element that it is displacing.

Preferably the mobile element is mobile in a straight direction, more preferably in a substantially vertical direction, so that the return stress comprises at least one component of the gravitational force.

Detector device 6, according to a preferred embodiment of the subject- matter disclosed herein, is oblong so as not to define a single mandatory path for the passage of rope C. This allows the movements of rope C to be detected whatever its point of departure from drum 2 and/or whatever the position of climber A with respect to apparatus 1.

Preferably the length of the mobile element substantially corresponds to the length of drum 2. According to a preferred embodiment of the subject-matter disclosed herein, in the detector and braking assembly 9, said mobile element of the detector device 6 embodies a braking surface of the braking device 5.

According to a preferred embodiment of the subject-matter disclosed herein, there are in this order along the path of the rope C: drum 2, rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 if present, braking device 5, detector device 6. In this manner, detector device 6 is directly affected by the actions of the climber A.

Controller 7 is provided for in order to receive the output of detector device 6, or control variable, and control motor 3 based thereon. The control or drive of the motor advantageously occurs in rotation direction and speed.

Preferably, controller 7 provides to control the release of rope C to the climber A by the drum 2 and to take the excess length of rope C. Controller 7 advantageously maintains a length of rope C at disposal for the climber A (rope length C2), and preferably an adequate tension therein, so as to prevent an excessive free fall of climber A, and as a consequence prevents the climber A to reach an excessive speed when free falling.

Controller 7 optionally also controls the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 and/or other components of apparatus 1.

Below, the above-mentioned components will be further described with reference to specific embodiments thereof, that shall be understood as being merely by way of a non-limiting example. In any case, it will be understood that the various details and the various features mentioned with reference to a specific component may be present or missing, in principle independently of the various details and the various features mentioned with reference to another component. It will be also understood that one or more of the mentioned components and/or features may be combined with each other, in particular when at least one component and/or feature is indicated as preferred and/or advantageous.

FIGs. 2-9 show an exemplary embodiment of a belaying apparatus 1 for sport climbing according to the invention. In FIG. 2, a cover 20 of the apparatus is shown as if it were transparent in order to make the components inside it visible.

The above-mentioned assemblies 4, 8, 9 are supported by a frame 21. Frame 21 is preferably metallic and/or of another material sufficiently stiff and strong, and is preferably provided with means for anchoring to the climbing wall or to the floor, the ground or other support surface, for example holes for bolts, but alternatively it could merely rest on the ground, if heavy enough to withstand the expected stresses.

With reference also to FIG. 3, in the embodiment shown the frame 21 comprises two shoulder walls 22, 23 facing each other, one or more partitions 24 extending between the two shoulder walls 22, 23 and, preferably but not necessarily, a bottom wall 25 and/or a rear wall 26, which may also replace the partition(s) 24. At least the shoulder walls 22, 23 and the partition(s) 24 are stiff enough to be load-bearing, and to withstand the stresses they are subjected to, and are constrained so as to have a stable mutual relationship.

With reference also to FIG. 4, in the embodiment shown, cover 20 is preferably box-shaped, missing the rear wall in case there is already the rear wall 26 of frame 21, so that it may be easily arranged onto the frame 21 from the front, to totally cover the components supported thereby. Cover 20 may, alternatively or additionally thereto, lack the rear wall. Cover 20 may be made in any suitable material, glass and a transparent or semitransparent material included, so as to allow the internal components of the belaying apparatus 1 to be seen, in order i.a. to check their integrity and proper operation.

Cover 20 is provided with a slot 27 for passage of the rope C, possibly stiffened by a frame 28, but for the rest is substantially closed, apart from what has been stated above, so as to protect the internal components of the apparatus 1 against dirt and to protect people against injuries caused by moving members. Slot 27 is preferably made in a front projection 29 of cover Slot 27 extends preferably vertically and along a sufficient length to allow the exit of rope C irrespectively of its position within the apparatus 1 and of the position of the climber A. A vertical slot tends to interfere less with the rope C than a horizontal configuration of the slot, that is however possible.

Alternatively to the slot, a circular hole for passage of the rope C could be provided for. Slot 27 might also partly or even completely extend in a top wall of the cover 20.

Cover 20 preferably bears a user interface 30, preferably comprising a display 31 and more preferably a touch screen. Preferably the screen 31 is arranged on the top wall of cover 20, so as to be visible by the climber A when he is on the wall. The user interface 30 preferably further comprises a push-button 32 for switching on/off power supply to a transformer 33 (FIG.

2) by the mains; the power supply cable is not shown. Transformer 33 preferably supplies all the components of the apparatus 1, although some may be directly power supplied by the mains and others may be battery- powered.

The three above-mentioned assemblies 4, 8, 9 are supported by the frame 21, each one extending crosswise between the shoulder walls 22, 23 thereof. In the embodiment shown, they are arranged stacked with the 8 motor - winding/unwinding drum assembly 8 topmost, the rope C guide- tensioner assembly 4 centrally, and the detector and braking assembly 9 lowermost.

With reference also to FIG. 5, in the embodiment shown the motor - drum assembly 8 comprises the drum 2 pivotal about a horizontal geometric axis X defined by a stationary axle 40 extending between the two shoulder walls 22, 23 of frame 21. As already stated, an end of rope C is suitably attached to the drum 2. The drum 2 is preferably sized so that the rope C may be wound onto the drum 2 essentially up to its entire length in the idle condition of apparatus 1. Motor - drum assembly 8 further comprises motor means 3, briefly stated motor 3, in order to drive the drum 2 into rotation, in both rotation directions about axis X.

Preferably, drum 2 has a cylinder 41 - which is shown as partially cutaway in order to make the components inside it visible - provided with two disc-shaped end flanges 42, 43 one-piece therewith, which have a greater diameter than the outer diameter of cylinder 41, and therefore advantageously provide for laterally restraining the portion of rope C wound onto the cylinder 41, besides being able to perform other functions that will become clear below. End flanges 42, 43 may however also be missing.

One of the end flanges of drum 2, the right flange 42 in the embodiment shown, is driven into rotation by motor 3 and for this reason is called driving flange 42 hereinafter; the other flange 43, the left one in the embodiment shown, is supported in the associated shoulder wall 23 of frame 21 in such a manner as to be free to rotate, and for this reason is called driven flange 43 hereinafter. For example, driven flange 43 is supported by a sleeve 44 coaxial with axle 40 and extending in a recess 45 in shoulder wall 23 (FIG.

3), which might be replaced by a through hole. Sleeve 44 has a fairlead guide 46 for the passage of cables (not shown).

Preferably, flange 43 bears four magnets 48, and an electromagnetic sensor 49 is arranged on shoulder wall 23 in such a position as to detect the passage of the magnets 48 so as to embody an electromagnetic encoder capable of measuring one or more among: the angular position, the rotation direction, the angular speed and/or the angular acceleration of drum 2. There might also be only one, two or three magnets.

Drum 2 is preferably set into rotation from the inside, namely the motor 3 is internal to the drum 2. This advantageously allows the volumes to be optimized, and the overall dimensions of the belaying apparatus 1 as a whole to be reduced.

To this purpose, first, cylinder 41 is hollow. On the proximal side of driving flange 42 there is a toothed wheel 60 (shown detached from flange 42 for illustrative purposes) which forms the central pinion or sun of a gear similar to a planetary gear, though lacking a ring gear. Specifically, toothed wheel 60 is attached to the driving flange 42 of drum 2 through a coupling quill 61 with associated anti-rotation key 62. Toothed wheels 63 forming the planets of the generally planetary gear, for example three in number as shown, are pivotally supported at a disc-shaped member 64, forming the carrier or planet holding member or planet holder of the generally planetary gear, attached to axle 40. In greater detail, disc-shaped member 64 is attached to axle 40 in such a position as to be in the proximity of the driving flange 42 of drum 2, in a more proximal position than flange 42, the generally planetary gear being interposed between the disc-shaped member 64 and the flange 42.

The toothed wheels 63 or planets are set into rotation by respective DC electric motors 65 (three in number in the embodiment shown) actuated synchronously and in phase, supported by the disc-shaped member 64 or carrier on its proximal side.

In the embodiment shown, the electric motors 65 are attached cantilevered from the proximal face of the disc-shaped member 64, and the toothed wheels 63 protrude from the distal side of the disc-shaped member 64, there being respective holes (not visible) of the disc-shaped member 64 for passage of the shafts of the electric motors 65.

Disc-shaped member 64 is advantageously of smaller size than the inner cylindrical surface of cylinder 41 of drum 2, so that it can be inserted inside the drum 2.

The electric motors 65 and the generally planetary gear embody motor 3.

Preferably, a second essentially disc-shaped member 70, also having smaller size than the inner cylindrical surface of cylinder 41 of drum 2, so that it can be inserted inside the drum 2, is attached to axle 40 in such a position as to be in the proximity of the driven flange 43 of drum 2, in a more proximal position than flange 43.

A plate 71 extends between the two disc-shaped members 64, 70 and is supported thereby. Plate 71 preferably supports a solenoid 72 of an emergency blocking device 73; according to the excitation or non-excitation state, the solenoid 72 controls the position of a pin 74 between a position withdrawn within solenoid 72 and an extracted position, wherein the pin 74 blocks the rotation of the driving flange 42 of drum 2, for example by inserting into one of a plurality of spaces 75 between protrusions 76 evenly spaced along a circumference on the proximal face of driving flange 42. Protrusions 76 are advantageously so configured as to provide a respective abutment surface for pin 74 in the unwinding direction of drum 2. The rotation of the drum 2 in the winding direction causes the unlocking of the emergency blocking device 73. Preferably, such a rotation intended for unlocking the emergency blocking device 73 is subordinated to a human input through the user interface 30. Pin 74 might block the rotation of the driving flange 42 in other manners, for example by friction or inserting in holes thereof. The disc-shaped member 64 forming the carrier preferably supports a small guide block 77 for pin 74 of the emergency blocking device 73. Emergency blocking device 73 might be of another kind or also be missing.

Preferably, the plate 71 further supports a casing 78 of electronic components, comprising in particular the controller 7 or at least some of the electronic components forming the same. The casing 78 is preferably essentially cylindrical and formed by two half-shells 79, 80 that wrap axle 40. Preferably the half-shells 79, 80 support a plate 81 therebetween, which in turn supports electronic boards and/or discrete electronic components on both faces thereof, or they directly support an electronic board. Advantageously, casing 78, when closed, is housed within the cylinder 41 of drum 2, in its region adjacent to the driven flange 43, while the electric motors 65 and the solenoid 72 are housed within the cylinder 41, in its region adjacent to the driving flange 42: in such a way, all the internal space of drum 2 is exploited.

Casing 78 is preferably open at both longitudinal ends. Preferably, the second disc-shaped member 70 supports one or more small fans 82 that advantageously provide to cool the electronics and the motors 65. It is understood that the casing 78 has a protective function and might be missing. Plate 71 might be replaced by other support means, or be missing, the various components described above being directly attached to the disc shaped members 64, 70 or to the axle 40 itself.

However, the electronic components, or some of them, as well as the emergency blocking device 73, when present, might be located elsewhere in the apparatus 1, in particular externally of the drum 2.

Alternatively to what has been described above, in the motor - drum assembly 8, drum 2 may be set into rotation by a single electric motor internal to cylinder 41, or by an external electric motor, directly or through a suitable kinematic system.

It is worthwhile emphasizing that a drum driven from the inside, and in particular having one or more of the above-mentioned features, represents an aspect of the subject-matter disclosed herein, irrespectively of the fact that it is used in combination with the other components of the apparatus 1 or not.

A similar consideration applies to a drum driven from the inside and housing electronic components inside it, and, more in general, for a drum housing electronic components inside it.

With reference also to FIG. 6, in the exemplary embodiment shown, the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4, preferably present, comprises a tensioner device 90 configured to tension a rope length C3 adjacent that wound onto the drum 2.

Tensioner device 90 comprises, in the embodiment shown, an idle roller 91 and a motor-driven roller 92, set into rotation by an electric DC motor 93. Rollers 91, 92 are mounted in a box-shaped container 94, preferably formed of two parts: a housing part 95, and a plate 96 for closing the same and for supporting motor 93 and the rotation axle of idle roller 91. Rollers 91, 92 have parallel rotation axes, and define a gap 97 therebetween, wherein rope C slides with friction. Rope C passes through container 94 through a hole 98 and a second hole not visible in FIG. 6. Motor 93 is advantageously external to container 94 so as to better dissipate the generated heat, but it might be internal to container 94.

Preferably, motor 93 is driven, by controller 7, in such a manner as to make roller 92 rotate at a comparatively low speed during winding of rope C onto drum 2, so as to generate a certain resistance against traction of branch C3 towards the drum 2, and to determine a tight winding; at a comparatively high speed during unwinding of rope C from drum 2, so as to assist unwinding. Preferably the two speeds are not only low and high when compared to each other, but also with respect to the speed of the drum 2, and may also be variable.

In the tensioner device 90, instead of two rollers, there may be only one roller and a countering groove, or there may be more rollers, forming a more or less sinuous path for rope C. More than one roller may be driven, each one by a respective motor, or two or more rollers may be actuated by a same motor. The rotation axis of each idle roller may be mounted onto a guide, and be mobile in a transverse direction to the rotation axis itself, against the action of a spring, so as to compensate for diameter changes of rope C caused e.g. by wearing thereof and/or to tension, besides possibly by the nominal diameter of rope C, that may thus be according to two or more standards. The rollers may have equal or different diameters; each roller may have a circumferential groove or not; the circumferential groove or the external surface of each roller may be smooth or knurled; and/or each roller may be made of a suitable material, such as for example of metal, rubber, silicon etc. All the above options are selectable for each roller independently of the other ones. At the expense of performance, the motor 93 of tensioner device 90 might however be missing, especially providing for more than two rollers.

Preferably, the tensioner device 90 is mobile with a reciprocating motion along a direction parallel to the geometric axis X of the drum 2, for a stroke essentially as long as the cylinder 41 of drum 2. In this manner, the tensioner device 90 may be brought in any instant in the proximity of the point of departure of the length of rope C3 from the drum 2, and thus act in a more efficient manner, given that the free length of rope C3 between drum 2 and tensioner device 90 is minimized, and the tilt angle between such a free length of rope C3 and the tensioner device 90 is minimized.

More preferably the movements of the tensioner device 90 and of the drum 2 are coordinated. To this end, in the embodiment shown the tensioner device 90 is supported by a slide 100 of rope guide-tensioner assembly 4, slide 100 being slidable along two parallel guide axles 101, passing through a respective hole 102 of slide 100, preferably with the interposition of a respective low friction bushing 103. The two guide axles 101 extend between the two shoulder walls 22, 23 of frame 21, to which they are suitably attached at their ends.

Preferably, in the apparatus 1 the same motor 3 of the motor - drum assembly 8 also controls the reciprocating motion of the slide 100, and thus also the reciprocating motion of the tensioner device 90 of rope guide- tensioner assembly 4.

A group comprising a motor-driven drum and a rope guide-tensioner assembly comprising a driven pulley driven at a different speed from that of the motor-driven drum, and in particular having one or more of the above mentioned features, represents an aspect of the subject-matter disclosed herein, irrespectively of the fact that it is used in combination with the other components of the apparatus 1 or not.

With reference also to FIGs. 2 and 5, in the embodiment shown of the motor - drum assembly 8, at the distal face of the driving flange 42 of drum 2 a pulley 104 is provided for, for a belt transmission of the rotary motion of the drum 2 to the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4. Pulley 104 rotates as if it were one piece with the toothed wheel 60 or sun, for example by being mounted on the same quill 61 and coupled with the same anti-rotation key 62, and is therefore set into rotation by the electric motors 65. Pulley 104, through a transmission belt 105, sets a second pulley 106 into rotation, forming a belt transmission 107 (FIG. 2).

Second pulley 106 rotates as if it were one piece with a self-reversing screw 108 of rope guide-tensioner assembly 4, for example through an anti- rotation key 109. On the self-reversing screw 108, a right-handed threading 110 and a left-handed threading 111 linked up at their ends are formed. A rudder 112 transforms the rotary motion of the self-reversing screw 108 into a translational motion of slide 100. In order to allow interaction of the rudder 112 alternately with each threading 110, 111, rudder 112 is free to rotate, about an axis orthogonal to the self-reversing screw 108, inside a seat 113 of slide 100, wherein it is held for example by a cover 115.

The self-reversing screw 108 is pivotally supported in respective holes 120, 121 (FIG. 3) in shoulder walls 22, 23 of frame 21, preferably with the interposition of ferrules 122, 123.

Preferably, pulleys 104, 106 and belt 105 are toothed for a more accurate motion transmission.

The combined movement of the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 and of the drum 2 allows a tidy winding of rope C, preferably according to two concentric layers along the entire cylindrical surface of the drum 2, and its tidy unwinding. The tension of rope C is kept within a preset range of values during such a combined movement, through control of the electric motor 93 of tensioner device 90.

In the present description and in the attached claims, term "preset" indicates a value established at a manufacture or configuration phase, and used in normal use conditions, but not necessarily a fixed and constant value.

The guiding configuration with twin guide axles 101 effectively restricts the motion of the slide 100 of tensioner device 90 to be a pure translational motion, advantageously preventing the slide 100 form tilting in the plane containing the two guide axles 101 and/or from rotating about a geometric axis lying in that plane or parallel thereto, such as the self-reversing screw 108. However, a different guide configuration may be used, for example a shoe guide.

Preferably, rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 further comprises an end of stroke detector, preferably arranged on the opposite side with respect to the belt transmission system 107 and/or a pair of end of stroke detectors on both sides. For example, the end of stroke detector is of the electromagnetic type, comprising an electromagnetic sensor 124 on board of slide 100 and a ferromagnetic material member 125 (FIG. 3) attached to shoulder wall 23.

It is in any case understood that any other motion transmission may replace the belt transmission 107, or it is possible to provide for a dedicated motor for the reciprocating linear motion of rope guide-tensioner assembly 4, the controller 7 driving such a motor in a coordinated manner with the motor means of motor - drum assembly 8. Just by way of an example, slide 100 bearing the tensioner device 90 might be displaced by a worm gear transmission, the worm being driven into rotation by its own motor, the belt transmission 107, the self-reversing screw 108 and the rudder 112 interacting therewith being missing.

According to another alternative of rope guide-tensioner assembly 4, the tensioner device 90 may be simultaneously supported and moved by a properly controlled piston, the guide axles 101, the slide 100 and the belt transmission 107 being missing.

In any case, a group comprising a motor-driven drum and a rope guide- tensioner assembly comprising a tensioner device driven in a coordinated manner with the motor-driven drum, and in particular having one or more of the above mentioned features, represents an aspect of the subject-matter disclosed herein, irrespectively of the fact that it is used in combination with the other components of the apparatus 1 or not.

With reference also to FIGs. 7-9, in the exemplary embodiment shown, the detector and braking assembly 9 combines the braking device 5 and the detector device 6. This is preferably obtained through a shared element that defines both a braking surface and an element responsive to movements of the rope C.

The detector and braking assembly 9 comprises, as mentioned, a mobile element 130 which is configured to be partly surrounded by a bend of rope C. The mobile element 130 is subject to a traction stress by the bend of rope C and to a return stress, that determine the possible displacement of mobile element 130, when one prevails over the other one.

The two branches of rope C on either side of the bend form an angle less than a perigon, preferably comprised between 90° and 270°, even more preferably comprised between 150° and 210°.

In FIGs. 7-9 a traction force F _A on the side of the climber A and a traction force F _M on the side of the drum, caused by the motor 3, are indicated, which sum is the above-mentioned traction stress, as well as a return force FR.

Preferably the mobile element 130 is mobile in a straight direction, more preferably in a substantially vertical direction, so that the return stress FR comprises at least one component of the gravitational force. The return stress FR comprises, alternatively or preferably additionally thereto, a stress generated by elastic return means such as for example one or more springs described below. The return force FR overall acting onto the mobile element 130 in a direction generally opposed to the acting forces F _A , F _M may have a further component described further below.

In detail, the rope C coming from the motor - drum assembly 8, in particular coming from above, is deflected at the mobile element 130, in particular turns under it, and returns toward the exit slot 27 of apparatus 1, in particular upwards, to reach the climber A. The rope branch coming from the drum 2 is indicated with Cl and the rope branch directed to the climber A is indicated with C2.

Preferably and advantageously the mobile element 130 contributes to achieve both the transducer function of the needs of the climber A to have more or less rope C, for the control of the apparatus 1, and the function of braking the rope C itself, forming part both of the braking device 5 and of detector device 6.

As far as the detector device 6 is concerned, considering for the sake of simplicity the condition wherein the cylinder 41 of drum 2 is stationary, when the rope branch C2 is drawn by the climber A for a length L (according to the oriented direction of force FA) or released, respectively, the displacement of the element 130 is caused, in particular vertically upwards or downwards, respectively, for a stroke of length L/2 (neglecting any stretch of rope C). More in general, the position of the mobile element 130 is representative of the length of the path that the rope C makes within the detector device 6, or in general within the detector and braking assembly 9. Said intended path for the rope C has, in turn, a variable length, which is correlated with movements of the rope C, in particular longitudinal displacements of the rope C, which are in turn caused by the voluntary or involuntary movements of the climber A. The maximum length of the intended path for the rope C is about twice the stroke of mobile element 130, and the minimum length of the intended path for the rope C is comparable with the diameter of mobile element 130.

A transducer 131 detects the position of mobile element 130 and inputs it, as control variable representative of the length of said path, to controller 7, which, based at least on the value of the control variable, suitably drives the motor of motor - drum assembly 8 and the other motors provided for, attending to winding or respectively unwinding rope C onto/from drum 2 as required, in the manner better explained hereinbelow.

Transducer 131 is preferably configured to detect a position in a continuum of positions, under this it being meant that it is possible to resolve between two positions sufficiently close with respect to the extent of the voluntary or involuntary movements of the climber A.

Transducer 131 may be a linear potentiometer, an optical encoder, a linear encoder, a wire encoder, a variable resistance potentiometer or other suitable position transducer.

As far as the braking device 6 is concerned, when the mobile element 130 approaches the end of stroke position corresponding to maximum traction by the bend of rope C, in particular to maximum traction force F _A by the end of rope branch C2 (upper end of stroke in the case of the embodiment shown), as it occurs in the case of detachment of the climber A from the climbing wall to rest or following a fall, it defines, with an abutment 132, a gap 133 for clamping rope C, which size decreases progressively. A surface portion of the mobile element 130 defines a mobile braking surface. The abutment 132 defines a preferably stationary braking surface.

Rope C, that extends in the gap 133 and preferably forms a tortuous path, is subject to progressively increasing friction, and is clamped until it is braked. The gap 133 has preferably a non-null minimum size, so sized, with respect to the diameter of rope C, as not to completely block the sliding of rope C. Exemplary values have been provided above.

Braking device 5 is thus of the mechanical type, and directly acts onto the rope C through friction, having two braking surfaces, those of the mobile element 130 and of the abutment 132, subject to a relative motion towards and away from each other, wherein during the approaching motion a gap 133 is formed wherein the rope is tightened with increasing force.

In greater detail, in the embodiment shown, the mobile element 130 is in the form of a tube having a horizontal axis, supported at its ends by two slides 134, 135 mobile in respective guides 136, 137. The tubular mobile element 130 may be stationary with respect to the slides 134, 135 as shown, or it may pivot in the slides 134, 135 through, for example, bushings or ball bearings.

One end of transducer 131 is attached to slide 134, while the other end of transducer 131 is suitably attached to frame 21 (cf. FIG. 2).

Within guide 136, slide 134 is slidable along two parallel guide axles 138, 139, passing through two holes 140 of slide 134 preferably with the interposition of a respective low friction bushing 141. The two guide axles 138, 139 are attached to a bottom plate 142 that also acts as an end of stroke for slide 134, and to a top plate 143. Guide 136 is mounted in frame 21 so that the guide axles 138, 139 are parallel and adjacent to shoulder wall 23. The bottom plate 142 is suitably attached to frame 21, for example to its shoulder wall 23; the top plate 143 is suitably attached to shoulder wall 23.

A helical spring 144 is inserted onto the guide axle 139 between the slide 134 and the top plate 143. The spring 144 is preferably accommodated, in its condition of desired maximum compression, in a bored block 145. Block 145 acts as a top end of stroke for slide 134, but it could also be missing and be replaced by a different configuration of the top plate 143 and/or of the slide 134, respectively.

Helical spring 144 is configured and sized so as to provide, together with the weight of mobile element 130 or its component extending in the direction of the trajectory of the mobile element 130, in the case of non-vertical motion, half of said return force FR in the case wherein, as shown, there is a corresponding spring in guide 137.

The top plate 143 of guide 136 also acts as a support for one end of the abutment 132. The abutment 132 may be stationary with respect to the top plate 143 as shown, or it might be pivotally supported for example through bushings or ball bearings. In this case also, abutment 132 is in any case fixed in position with respect to the stroke of the mobile element 130, and it is in this sense that it is sometimes referred to as a fixed abutment.

Slide 134 preferably has a recess 147 adapted to partly accommodate abutment 132 and define said desired minimum and non-null size of the gap 133 in the condition wherein the mobile element 130 is in the top end of stroke condition.

Abutment 132 has preferably an essentially triangular section, so that when the rope C pulls the mobile element 130 upwards, it "wedges" between a vertical plane defined by the recess 147 and the mobile element 130. The braking surface of abutment 132 is inclined downwards, lying in a plane forming an angle comprised between 50° and 70° with the vertical direction.

It is worthwhile emphasizing that a detector device and/or a braking device comprising a vertically moving element configured to be surrounded in part by a bend of a rope, which vertical displacement is determined by a traction stress by the bend of rope against a return stress, in particular having one or more of the above mentioned features, represent aspects of the subject-matter disclosed herein, irrespectively of the fact that they are used in combination with the other components of the apparatus 1 or not.

The guiding configuration with twin axels 140 effectively restricts the motion of the slide 134 to be a pure translational motion. However, a different guide configuration may be used, for example a shoe guide. The guide 137 of slide 135 is analogous to the guide 136 of slide 134, apart from the fact that it lacks the transducer 131; the related description is omitted for the sake of brevity. The respective spring is indicated as spring 148 for convenience of description.

Alternatively to the tubular shape shown, also the mobile element 130 may have a triangular section or an oblique face opposing the oblique face of abutment 132; however the tubular configuration of mobile element 130 wears the rope C less and, in combination with the triangular section of abutment 132, the braking effect is optimal.

The configuration shown, wherein the mobile element 130 and the abutment 132 are oblong and preferably have a length substantially corresponding to the stroke of the slide 100 of the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4, is particularly advantageous in that the operation of the apparatus 1 is independent from the tilt taken up by the branches Cl, C2 of rope C due to the position of departure along the drum 2 and/or the position of the climber A transverse to the climbing wall. However, this configuration is not essential and the mobile element 130 and the abutment 132 may have a size slightly greater than the diameter of rope C, forming a single mandatory path therefor, at the vertical slot 27 for the exit of the rope C out of the apparatus 1.

The provision that the mobile element 130 is oblong, so as not to define a single mandatory path for the rope C, advantageously allows the movements of the rope C to be detected and/or it to be braked whatever is its point of departure from the drum 2 and/or whatever is the position of the climber A with respect to the apparatus 1. The oblong mobile element 130 has an active region, as braking surface and/or as surface subject to forces FA and FM, extending for a length greater than the diameter of rope C - and preferably substantially corresponding to the length of the drum 2.

The braking device 5 made by the mobile element 130 and the abutment 132 allows the rope C to be controlled during the fall of the climber A without excessively stress the mechanics of drum 2. Such a braking device absorbs or discharges a great percentage of the tensile force developing within rope C, still lets the remaining percentage pass to the drum 2, thanks also to the minimum size of the gap 133. Furthermore, the device is self-releasing.

In detail, when the end of the rope branch C2 attached to the climber A is drawn upwards during a descent or a fall or an ascent as leading climber, due to the resistance opposed by the drum 2 to the sliding of the rope branch Cl, the displacement of mobile element 130 upwards is caused. The two forces F _A and F _M are concordant upwards or in any case their resultant is directed upwards; the return force FR, suitably sized, is overcome.

When the mobile element 130 is far from the abutment 132 (cf. FIG. 8), the rope branch Cl freely slides on the abutment 132 and the frictions involved are negligible, but in any case they contribute to that displacement.

When the mobile element 130 approaches the abutment 132, the rope C takes up an even more tortuous trajectory, which increases the friction thereof on the side of branch Cl and induces the mobile element 130 to further rise, and thus brings towards the formation of the gap 133 and to its closure at the minimum size, and therefore to the closure of the braking mechanism (cf. FIG. 9). In the end of stroke condition, the rope C turns out to be squeezed in the gap 133 between the mobile element 130 and the abutment 132; the squeezing of rope C causes sliding friction that slows down and stops the rope C. The greater the tension within rope C, the greater is the squeezing force exerted by abutment 132, thus the friction, and consequently the braking force of the braking mechanism of detector and braking assembly 9.

The springs 144, 148 work under compression in the condition of maximum braking of rope C, tending to push the slide 134 downwards so as to let the rope C free when the traction force exerted on the rope C ceases, thus configuring a self-releasing braking mechanism. Alternatively or additionally thereto, elastic return means different from springs 144, 148 may be provided for, including means acting under traction towards the opposite end of stroke position, for example springs extending between the bottom plate 142 and the slide 134. Thanks to the inclination of the contact surface of abutment 132, the reaction force that is generated on the mobile element 130 turns out to be directed diagonally downwards, and this force contributes to return force FR and to the self-releasing effect, possibly even making the use of springs 144, 148 superfluous as far as that function is concerned.

The springs 144, 148 however preferably also play a sort of role as fall damper, condition corresponding to a quick rise of the mobile element 130, in that they are compressed during the phase of braking action onto the rope C. Springs 144, 148 limit, or contribute to limit, the force clamping the rope C within gap 133.

The above described top end of stroke to define the minimum size of gap 133, embodied for example by block 145, advantageously also has the effect of limiting the friction force that generates in the first phases of a fall. Experimental tests have proven that during a fall, the tensile force within rope C has an initial maximum peak and then decreases until it reaches a constant tension due to the weight of the climber A. The mechanical end of stroke allows the value of such a peak to be trimmed at a smaller force value, thus preventing the friction force generated by mobile element 130 and by abutment 132 onto rope C to be excessive, and that it might cause the sudden block of rope C. The Applicant has indeed recognized that it is desirable that part of such force is transmitted to the drum 2 so that the rope C may continue to slide, although in a controlled manner. The braking mechanism of detector and braking assembly 9 is configured so that the tension that is generated in the rope C during a fall acts in a larger percentage on braking device 5 and in a smaller, but preferably non-null, percentage on drum 2.

The operation of the belaying apparatus 1 during the sport climbing activity, already discussed in the previous description as far as the individual components are concerned, is further described hereinbelow, also with the aid of some exemplary and not limiting flowcharts. For a better understanding, in the flowcharts sometimes reference is made, between square brackets, also to the specific embodiment described above; in any case the following also represents a description of some processes for belaying a climber that represent aspects of the subject-matter disclosed herein irrespectively of the fact that they are actuated in relation with one or more components of the apparatus 1 or not.

Based at least on the signal received from the detector and braking assembly 9, or control variable, controller 7 determines how to drive motor 3 in order to control the rotation of drum 2 and preferably also the rotation at a different speed of the driven roller 92 of tensioner device 90 during the various phases of activity of the climber A. Controller 7 preferably drives the electric motors 65 of motor - drum assembly 8 and the motor 93 of tensioner device 90, if present, with pulse width modulation (PWM).

As diagrammatically shown in FIG. 10, a control cycle 1000 performed by controller 7, having a repetition period sufficiently small with respect to the voluntary and involuntary movements of the climber A, comprises:

- obtaining the value of a control variable emitted by detector device 6 and representing a length of rope C to be released to climber A or respectively to be taken - as opposed to it being representative of an internal tension of rope C preferably the control variable is representative of the length of an intended path for a length of rope C, the path having a variable length correlated with movements, in particular longitudinal displacements, of the rope C; in particular reading the value emitted by transducer 131, namely the current position P(ti\i) of mobile element 130 (step 1001);

- controlling the motor means, or briefly motor 3, of motor winding/unwinding drum assembly 8, in rotation direction and speed, based at least on the value of the control variable, and possibly of at least one value thereof preceding in time, and/or on the elapsed time (step 1002).

The second step above is preferably performed by:

- establishing a speed value of motor 3 of motor - drum assembly 8 based on the obtained value of the control variable and possibly on at least one value thereof preceding in time, and/or on the elapsed time, as well as possibly based on still other variables not mentioned in FIG. 9 and described further below (step 1003); and

- powering the motor 3 (the electric motors 65) with a value of a driving signal corresponding to the established speed (step 1004).

It will be understood that the powering of the motors of step 1004 lasts during execution of steps 1001 and 1003 of the successive cycle.

Let's c consider that in the initial condition, rope C is wound onto drum 2 for two concentric layers with juxtaposed turns, and departs from drum 2 at a longitudinal end, for example on the side of shoulder wall 22. Rope C passes through tensioner device 90, which is in the corresponding longitudinal position, at the end of the stroke with respect to one of the two threadings of self-reversing screw 108, for example with respect to the left- handed threading 111. Rope C then passes under mobile element 130 of detector and braking assembly 9, which mobile element 130 is in the bottom position along guides 136, 137, with the slides 134, 135 at the end of the stroke on the bottom plate 142 and the corresponding one of guide 137.

First of all the climber A, leading or second climber, has to obtain rope C in order to attach its end to his harness. Furthermore, when the climber A ascends as leading climber, he has to obtain rope in order to draw it along to the top of the wall and secure it to the belay points along the wall, for example passing it through the carabiners or others. Although, as it will be apparent below, these two conditions may be managed in a different manner, they are now considered together because in both cases, rope C has to be unwound in a controlled manner from drum 2, essentially without any tension.

With reference also to FIG. 11, first it is described how the speed value is established (in step 1003) during a normal climbing or "progression" operating mode, possibly including the initial phase in which the climber A starts to draw rope C to initially tie himself. When the climber starts ascending, from the ground or in any case from the level of apparatus 1, as leading climber, rope C first pulls the mobile element 130 upwards. When, as checked in a step 1010, the mobile element 130 overcomes, ascending, a predetermined unwinding threshold position PSVOLG - which as better described below may be different according to whether he is tying or it is in the normal operation-, or in general when the value of the control variable is indicative of a traction FA by the climber A in order to obtain rope C, then controller 7 starts the motor 3 to make the drum 2 rotate in unwinding direction of rope C, at an unwinding speed VN which will be referred to as a positive speed by convention (step 1011).

If rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 is present, simultaneously the belt transmission 107 makes the self-reversing screw 108 rotate in the same direction about its own geometric axis, and tensioner device 90 moves along the right-handed threading 110 along drum 2, following rope C in its unwinding. Simultaneously, motor 93 of tensioner device 90, if present, makes the driven roller 92 rotate at a comparatively high speed, so as to aid unwinding of the rope.

As the climber A continues the ascent, the apparatus 1 allows unwinding of rope C from the drum 2. When tensioner device 90, if present, arrives at the end of the right-handed threading 110 adjacent to shoulder wall 23, its movement reverses, following the left-handed threading 111 up to shoulder wall 22, while the self-reversing screw 108 continues to rotate in the same direction about its own geometric axis. Thus, if the distance traveled by climber A is sufficient, both layers of rope C are unwound.

The speed of motor 3 is kept at a positive value (step 1011), as unwinding speed VN > 0, as long as there is a traction FA by the climber A and in particular as long as the mobile element 130 continues to rise and, while it drops, until it drops again below a predetermined equilibrium position PEQ. For reasons explained below, in step 1010 it is preferably also checked that the position of mobile element 130 remains below another predetermined threshold position P _M , advantageously corresponding to the position wherein the springs 144, 148 begin to be compressed, or more in general it is checked that the value of the control variable remains indicative of a normal request for rope by the climber A.

When the position P(ti\i) of mobile element 130 drops below the equilibrium position P _EQ , motor 3 is stopped, as well as motor 93 if present (step 1014). The equilibrium position P _EQ corresponds to the position of mobile element 130 when it is subject to its own weight, is not subject to the action of the springs 144,148, is subject to a desired minimum traction upwards by rope C.

The unwinding threshold position PSVOLG at which motor 3 is switched on may coincide with the equilibrium position P _E Q at which motor 3 is switched off, but preferably the unwinding threshold position PSVOLG is higher than the equilibrium position P _EQ so as to determine a certain hysteresis of the apparatus 1, in order to neglect small oscillations of the position of mobile element 130 about an equilibrium condition.

Thanks to the hysteresis, it is avoided continuing to turn the motor on and off for small oscillations of the state of traction and release of rope C by the climber A. For example, displacements of rope C of few millimeters may be tolerated.

There is an analogous behavior to what has been described above when the climber A descends as lead climber or when the climber A descends as second climber, because in both cases he needs to obtain rope.

When on the other hand climber A ascends as second climber, rope C - which passes in the top carabiner of the wall - is released by the climber A and is taken by the apparatus 1.

The fact that the apparatus 1 provides for winding the taken rope C onto the drum 2, instead of braking/blocking a length thereof letting the rest of rope C accumulate on the ground, as it happens, for example, with a belayer person, is also advantageous because the rope does not cause tripping hazard.

Also in this case, rope C does not urge the mobile element 130 anymore, and force FA has a null value. The mobile element 130 tends to drop under return force FR, comprising its own weight and possible thrust of springs 144, 148. When, as checked in a step 1012, the mobile element 130 overcomes, dropping, a predetermined winding threshold position PAW, or in general when the value of the control variable is indicative of a release of the traction FA by the climber A, then controller 7 makes the motor 3 start to make the drum 2 rotate in the winding direction of rope C, at a winding speed VN which by convention will be referred to as a negative speed (step 1013), thus taking the rope C and avoiding that a length (or an excessive length) of slack rope is formed. Simultaneously, in the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 if present, the belt transmission 107 makes self-reversing screw 108 rotate in the same direction about its own geometric axis, and tensioner device 90 moves along the drum 2 in the second direction, following the point of departure of rope C from drum 2 during unwinding thereof; at the end of the stroke, the tensioner device 90 reverses its motion, following the other threading. Simultaneously, the motor 93 of tensioner device 90 makes the driven roller 92 rotate at a comparatively low speed, so as to oppose a certain resistance to winding and tension the rope C in order for it to be tidy wound.

The speed of motor 3 is kept at a value negative by convention (step 1013), as winding speed V _N < 0, as long as there is no traction F _A by the climber A and in particular as long as the mobile element 130 continues to drop and, while it rises again, until it reaches the predetermined equilibrium position P _EQ .

When, for example because the climber A stops, the mobile element 130 rises again over the predetermined equilibrium position P _EQ , being subject to traction F _M , motor 3, as well as motor 93 if present, is stopped (step 1014).

The winding threshold position PAW at which motor 3 is switched on may coincide with the equilibrium position P _EQ at which motor 3 is switched off, but preferably the winding threshold position PAW is lower than the equilibrium position P _EQ so as to determine a certain hysteresis of the apparatus 1, in order to neglect small oscillations of the position of mobile element 130 about an equilibrium condition. Preferably, unwinding speed VN > 0 and/or winding speed VN < 0 have an absolute value which is not constant, rather it is properly correlated with the position P(ti\i) of mobile element 130, so as to be adequate to the magnitude of the force F _A exerted onto rope C by the climber A, respectively adequate to the speed at which the climber A draws and respectively releases rope, and thus to the speed of the climber A.

Thus, in this operating mode, V _N is a function V _N [P(tN), P(tN-i)] of, or in general is correlated with, one or more variables among:

- such a position P(ti\i) o respectively such a force FA,

- a value previously taken up by such a position, P(tN-i), or respectively by such a force F _A (or respectively by the speed itself).

Controller 7 may establish (block 1003 of FIG. 10, or respectively in blocks 1011 and 1013 of FIG. 10) the speed value VN of motor 3 according to the control variable, in particular of the current position P(t ) of mobile element 130, and possibly of other variables, by applying a mathematical function and/or through a lookup table.

Motor 3 is preferably actuated at a speed which is higher, in absolute value, as the further the mobile element 130 is from the equilibrium position PEQ, following, for example, at least piecewise, a linear or parabolic or hyperbolic law.

In ranges of positions of the mobile element 130 very far respectively below and above the equilibrium position P _E Q, however still below position P _M , motor 3 is preferably actuated at a constant maximum winding speed V _{M A} and at a constant maximum unwinding speed V _M s, respectively, the two speeds V _M-A and V _M _s not necessarily being equal in absolute value.

The distance of the equilibrium position PEQ from the predetermined winding threshold position P _A w and the predetermined unwinding threshold position PSVOLG may be different or the same.

The distance between the predetermined winding threshold position P _A w and unwinding threshold position PSVOLG, namely the stroke of mobile element 130, as well as the respective speeds, are preselected such that in any case an excessive length of slack rope C cannot build up. In case the climber A comes off the wall, voluntary to descend or involuntary in case of fall, all his weight weights on the rope C. Rope C is thus remarkably stressed by force F _A in unwinding direction from drum 2. The small length of rope C at disposal within the detector device 6 (that was within the intended path for the rope) is immediately drawn on the side of the climber A and the rope C raises somewhat suddenly the mobile element 130, approaching it to the stationary abutment 132 and bringing it into the position P _M wherein the springs 144, 148 begin to be compressed. This condition, more in general the condition that the value of the control variable is indicative of a sudden request for rope C by the climber A, is advantageously considered by controller 7 as indicative of the switching to a different operating mode, referred to herein as "fall and suspension" mode, wherein the apparatus 1 remains until the condition lasts.

Thus, the elastic return means embodied by the springs 144, 148 preferably have, alternatively or additionally to the other functions mentioned above, the function of allowing a threshold value of detector device 6 to be defined (the above-mentioned predetermined threshold position P _M ) in order to discriminate between a traction stress by the bend of rope C representative of a first operating mode and a traction stress by the bend of rope C representative of a second operating mode, wherein preferably the first operating mode is a fall condition of a climber A secured to an end of the rope C and the second operating mode is a voluntary movement of the climber A.

Although it is possible to manage this manner in a manner totally analogous to what has been described above with reference to the normal or "progression" operating mode, in the "fall and suspension" mode the controller 7 preferably establishes the speed value V _N of motor 3 based on a predefined behavior over time, that allows the fall of the climber A to be stopped as early as possible, still however in a cushioned manner, until almost blocking rope C and thus allowing climber A to stay suspended in the air. With reference to FIG. 12, an exemplary and preferred predefined behavior over time comprises:

- immediately upon the occurrence of the condition that the value of the control variable is indicative of a sudden request for rope C by the climber A, specifically of the condition R(ΪN) = RM, driving motor 3 at a very high unwinding speed V _C AD, which preferably but not necessarily corresponds to the maximum unwinding speed VM s used during normal operating mode (step 1020);

- soon thereafter, starting a deceleration of motor 3, preferably according to a linear falling ramp, until bringing it down to switch off or preferably to direction reversal, and at a predefined winding speed VSOSP (step 1021);

- optionally, maintaining the predefined winding speed VSOSP for a predefined time range TSOSP (step 1022).

Thanks to very high unwinding speed PCAD of step 1020 and to the start of step 1021, rope C slides initially free, not braked, through the detector and braking assembly 9 while the gap 133 first is not formed yet and then is still sufficiently open to exert a low braking force onto rope C, and is therefore released to climber A for an analogous length to that required by the fall of the climber A subject to weight force and to gravitational acceleration, still in progress, in practice letting him initially in free fall.

The deceleration of step 1021 allows thereafter to release increasingly less rope C than that requested by the fall of the climber A subject to weight force, still in progress. Gap 133 increasingly closes, in that the rope branch Cl resists traction F _A on branch C2 and, in the case of speed reversal at the end of step 1021, exerts in turn a traction FM upwards on the mobile element 130. Rope C is thus subject to an increasing friction force over time and thus slides increasingly braked through detector and braking assembly 9, sufficiently braked to prevent the free fall of the climber A until it is almost blocked.

Thus, instead of instantaneously stopping motor 3 in order to block the fall as soon as possible, rope C is released at decreasing speed until stop, thus cushioning the fall. This type of behavior is referred to herein as "dynamic securing" and, notwithstanding the fact that the fall time is increased, is advantageous in that it decreases the stop force and thus the "jerk" that affects the climber A, the rope C and the mechanics of apparatus 1.

At the end of step 1022, traction force F _M of rope branch Cl by the motor 3 is maximum and the gap 133 is at its minimum size, as dictated by the mechanic end of the stroke position PFC of mobile element 130. In this end of the stroke position, preferably accomplished through block 145, the compression of the springs 144, 148 is maximum.

If the force exerted by motor 3 at the predefined winding speed VSOSP is sufficient to overcome the percentage of static weight force of the climber A which is transmitted to the drum 2 (rope branch Cl) by the braking device 5, rope C is blocked and the climber A stays suspended until the end of step 1022; in the contrary case, he will slide down very slowly. It is noted that despite the motor 3 is urged in the winding direction, typically it will fail to cause rotation of the drum 2 in the winding direction.

If during step 1022 the climber A resumes his grip on the wall, thanks to the self-releasing feature of braking device 5, the stress F _A of rope C on the side of branch C2 on mobile element 130 decreases, and the latter is pushed downwards by the return force FR formed by its weight, by the springs 144, 148 and/or by the vertical component of the reaction force acting on mobile element 130, dictated by the tilt of abutment 132. The return force FR indeed prevails also on the small traction force FM exerted by motor 3 in this condition. Gap 133 widens and rope C is set free. Sensor element 130 drops below the position P _M of begin of compression of the springs and the above described normal or "progression" operating mode is resumed.

In FIG. 12 there is shown a block 1023 of check of the above condition, in parallel with blocks 1021, 1022, 1023, which is to be understood as a continuous check during the entire predetermined development over time of the "fall and suspension" mode. If, during the "fall and suspension" mode, the mobile element 130 drops below the position PM of begin of compression of the springs before the above described predefined behavior over time of the speed has finished, and thus before the stop or almost stop of rope C, then controller 7 interrupts such predefined behavior over time, going back (block 1024) to the "progression" mode, in particular to step 1010 of FIG.

11; otherwise the execution of block 1021, 1022 or 1023 it was performing continues (block 1025).

Once the fall has been secured through the maximum braking of the rope, alternatively it could be provided for totally blocking the rope C by exerting a suitable traction by the motor means 3, and thus for allowing climber A to stay suspended in the air until an input through the interface.

If on the other hand the climber A does not resume his grip on the wall, at the end of step 1022 an operating mode named "descent" begins, which is described with reference to FIG. 13. In such a mode, the speed of motor 3 is established, block 1003 of FIG. 10, according to a specific predefined behavior over time.

Initially, in block 1031, the speed of motor 3 is established as a sufficiently low unwinding speed, so that the stress of rope C on the side of branch Cl onto mobile element 130 decreases and, still thanks to the self releasing feature of braking device 5, gap 133 opens enough to allow the braked sliding of rope C. Because the weight of climber A continues to weight on the rope C as force F _A , the apparatus 1 continues to release rope C and the climber A is slowly lowered to ground.

There can be optionally provided to smoothly or stepwise increase the unwinding speed from an initial, comparatively low speed to a final, comparatively high speed in block 1032; in such a case the size of gap 133 increases, the braking force onto rope C decreases, and the descent speed of the climber A increases. Of course, the unwinding speed during the "descent" mode is in any case sufficiently low to be bearable in the instant when the climber reaches ground.

The initial, comparatively low speed allows the climber A to resume his grip on the wall. Alternatively, in "descent" mode, the speed V _N may be obtained in step 1003 of FIG. 10, in particular calculated or read from a lookup table, according to the position P(ti\i) of mobile element 130.

The condition whereat the climber A touches ground is recognized in particular by controller 7 in that the mobile element 130, not being subject to stress FA by the rope branch C2 anymore, quickly drops to the equilibrium position PE _Q . However it is possible to provide for the exit condition from such a mode to be the overcoming, in descent, of the position P _M of begin of compression of the springs or a threshold position of mobile element 130 specific for determination of the end of the descent. In FIG. 13 a block 1033 of check of the above-mentioned condition is shown, in parallel with blocks 1031, 1032, which has to be understood as a continuous check during the entire predetermined development over time of the "fall and suspension" mode. Thus, if during the execution of steps 1031 or 1032 the above- mentioned condition occurs, motor 3 is switched off by setting VN = 0 (block 1034); otherwise the execution of block 1031 or 1032 it was performing continues (block 1035).

Turning back to the check of block 1023 di FIG. 12, the Applicant has recognized that it may happen that, due to a very quick and abrupt movement, made by the climber A as leading climber in order to secure the rope C to the next belay point, a movement that hereinafter will be termed "quick draw", the mobile element 130 is suddenly brought very high, above the position P _M of begin of compression of the springs, namely it generates the same condition as used to recognize a fall condition (cf. step 1020 of FIG. 12).

Based on experimental tests, the Applicant has however recognized that on the average, fall is a slower event than "quick draw". Specifically, the draw is characterized by a high speed, but a low force, corresponding to the traction by an arm; fall is instead characterized by an initial lower speed and a high force given by the weight of the climber A. Because the climber A typically makes the draws while standing, the condition of temporarily crossing the threshold PM of begin of compression of the springs typically occurs from a condition whereat the motor 3 is switched off and, according to what has been stated above, it is immediately switched on, in block 1020, at the very high unwinding speed VCAD. However, the sudden deceleration of block 1021 according to a predefined behavior over time would entail, if it were not possible to distinguish between a fall condition and a draw condition, too slow draws or too long falls.

By suitably sizing the springs 144, 148 it may be obtained that the force FA exerted onto rope C in the case of a "quick draw" is not capable of compressing them. The mobile element 130 is thus immediately urged downwards by the return force FR, in a sense bouncing downwards, below the position PM of begin of compression of the springs, causing the exit from the "fall and suspension" mode based on the check of block 1023. In such a manner it is possible to return to the normal "progression" mode, and maintain an adequate speed of motor 3; thus, the rope C is released to the climber A allowing him the "quick draw" maneuver.

Alternatively, controller 7 might discriminate whether the overcoming of the position PM of begin of compression of the springs, in general the condition of sudden request for rope C by the climber A, is due to a jerk of the rope C in order to carry out a "quick draw" or to a true fall through a second evaluation of the position of mobile element 130 at the end of a predetermined time interval, what would however entail a delay in the actuation of the "fall and suspension" mode, and/or through the evaluation of the speed and/or the acceleration of the traction force FA.

With reference to FIG. 14, controller 7, in "progression" mode, further advantageously implements a control of the maximum acceleration imparted to motor 3. In detail, it is evaluated (step 1040) whether the speed to be imparted to the motor 3 is such as to determine an excessive acceleration, in particular it is evaluated whether the difference between a speed V _N obtained through calculation or lookup table in the manner described above and a value preceding in time of the speed V _{N x} imparted to the motor 3, wherein X is equal to 1 or to a preselected integer, is higher than a predetermined threshold. In the affirmative case, instead of using, in step 1004 of FIG. 10, the speed V _N , a limited speed is used, calculated in step 1041 in particular by the formula V _N = V _N -x+A _m ax*(tN -tN-x), wherein A _ma x is the desired maximum acceleration.

Thus, in step 1003 of FIG. 10 the speed of motor 3 is also established based on the value preceding in time of the speed itself.

With reference to FIG. 15, the Applicant has established an optimal value for the desired maximum acceleration considering that in case of fall, the position of the climber A (and therefore the length of rope he would draw behind) changes over time according to a parabolic curve 1050 corresponding to free fall at gravitational acceleration of 9,8 m/sec ² . The length of rope C released by apparatus 1 has an initial value LINIZ which is not null and equal to the length of the rope at disposal within the braking device 5, at most equal to about twice the stroke of mobile element 130. The length of rope C released by apparatus 1 follows a curve that may be approximated by curve 1051. As the acceleration decreases, the time needed to obtain the intersection of the two curves (cf. straight line 1053), which corresponds to the total brake of the climber A, decreases.

To limit the maximum acceleration during the "progression" mode guarantees that in case of fall, before the apparatus 1 distinguishes the fall condition and manages it suitably as stated above, the climber A receives as little rope as possible, thus limiting the free and uncontrolled fall. However, too low acceleration during the progression mode may entail too slow response to certain movements of the climber, in particular in the case of the above described "draw" movements.

Preferred values for the maximum acceleration A _max are comprised in the range between 3 m/s ² and 7 m/s ² , preferably in the range between 4 m/s ² and 6 m/s ² . Even more preferably, the maximum acceleration A _max is equal to 4,8 m/s ² . It is worthwhile emphasizing that a motor-driven drum for a safety rope which speed variation over time is limited to an acceleration as said above represents an aspect of the subject-matter disclosed herein, irrespectively of the fact that it is used in combination with the other components of the apparatus 1 or not.

It is noted that controller 7 is overall configured to control the motor means 3 according to a law other than both a linear function and a piecewise linear function of the control variable, although it may follow a linear function or a piecewise linear function in one or more ranges of the control variable and/or in one or more operating modes.

Preferably, slot 27 extends downwards until a position below the above- mentioned equilibrium position PE _Q of mobile element 130. In such a manner, cover 20 neither hinders nor deflects rope C, allowing the detector and braking assembly 9 to detect all the notable positions referred to above in an accurate manner.

In the operation of the apparatus 1, controller 7 further receives the outputs of the electromagnetic encoder formed by elements 48, 49 and of the electromagnetic end of stroke device formed by elements 124, 125, and it may implement other control functions based thereon.

If controller 7 detects an anomaly, for example a rotation of drum 2 unexpected or not compliant with the speed imparted to the motors 3, then the emergency blocking device 73 is activated.

The angular speed being equal, when winding/unwinding the inner layer of rope C, drum 2 takes/releases a certain length of rope C, while when winding/unwinding the outer layer of rope C, drum 2 takes/releases a greater length of rope C. Using only two layers of rope C, the difference in taken/ re I eased length is negligible. Three concentric layers could also be used. Actually, even more than three layers could be used: even if the differences in this case are no longer negligible, it is always possible to provide for the controller 7 to take into account which layer of rope C it is winding/unwinding and to further adjust the speed of drum 2 based on this variable. Controller 7 preferably also performs one or more of the following auxiliary functions. Some of these can be selectively activated, through the user interface 30. Some of these are possible also thanks to the fact that the controller preferably counts the meters of rope C released based on the commands imparted to motor 3 over time, on the signal coming from the encoder formed by elements 48, 49 of motor - drum assembly 8, and of signal of the end of stroke device formed by elements 124, 125 of rope guide-tensioner assembly 4.

An auxiliary function relates to the limitation of the amount of slack rope during the entire operation of the apparatus 1. In order to increase the safety provided by apparatus 1, the length of rope C that is delivered each time the mobile element 130 rises from its equilibrium position PEQ is limited to a predetermined rope length, which allows all the necessary maneuvers to be carried out, but allows the free fall to be kept within safety levels. This predetermined rope length is so selected as not to be reached during normal operation of the apparatus 1. In this manner it is prevented that the length of slack rope C might become excessive due to a mistake of the climber A.

An auxiliary function relates to attaching rope C to climber A. As briefly stated above, when the apparatus 1 is not used and is in stand-by condition, the rope C is advantageously completely wound onto drum 2 and only a short length of rope C exits from slot 27, so as not to be exposed on the ground, where, among other things, it could cause people to trip. In order to allow the climber A as leading climber to comfortably tie the rope C to his harness, it is necessary that the apparatus 1 delivers a predetermined length of rope C, which should then not be taken during the normal operation of the apparatus 1 until switching off thereof. This auxiliary function may be activated through the user interface 30, or automatically by exploiting the knowledge by the controller 7 of the length of rope C that is out of drum 2 at each time - or dually the amount of rope wound on drum 2 at each time. As soon as the rope C is drawn, even if the mobile element 130 does not overcome the above-mentioned unwinding threshold PSVOLG, the controller drives the motor 3 in order to unwind up to a preset maximum length of rope C, thus allowing the knot and all the preparation operations before starting to climb to be made, and thus the draw of rope C, in the case of a leading climber A.

A further auxiliary function, advantageously actuatable upon receipt of a predetermined input on the user interface 30 following the just described function, is a check called in jargon "partner check": in order to check that climber A has correctly tied before departing to climb, the apparatus 1 takes rope C until all the present slack has been eliminated, and then draws it slightly in order to check, through the rise of the mobile element 130, that it is tied. Furthermore, an explicit confirmation may be requested to the climber A, through input on the user interface 30, of the fact that he provided to the knot and check thereof.

A further auxiliary function allows the end of the descent as leading climber to be managed and to decide, through a suitable input on the user interface 30, whether to take all the rope in order to put away the apparatus 1 in standby or vice versa whether to keep the rope C temporarily blocked, subsequently proceed to attachment to the harness of a climber A as second climber, and to the partner check function.

Preferably a specific mode for climbing as second climber is also provided for, wherein the equilibrium position PE _Q and the winding threshold PAW are moved higher than in the case of a leading climber, so that the apparatus 1 operates with the mobile element 130 in the zone closest to the springs 144, 148. The excess rope C is taken while the climber A ascends and the rope is kept under slight tension. In case of detachment from the wall, the gap 133 between the mobile element 130 and the abutment 132 immediately builds up and closes, and the climber A stays suspended essentially without falling; in a manner analogous to what has been described above, after a certain time in this suspension condition, the descent occurs.

An analogous behavior, wherein the winding threshold PAW and the equilibrium position P _EQ are brought very high, may be provided for according to a further auxiliary function, termed herein "reactive belaying", so as to minimize the free stroke of mobile element 130 and therefore the slack length of rope C and therefore such as to minimize the fall length. Such an auxiliary function is useful for example during the first meters of the climb, when one is still close to ground, or when one arrives at the highest point in absolute, or "range". In such a case, the allowed free fall is of very few centimeters. This function may be automatically activated by controller 7 when it knows that a length of rope C sufficient to reach the "range" has been delivered.

A further auxiliary function relates to the output of a signal immediately usable by the climber A, indicative of the condition of the apparatus 1: when the display 31 is provided for on the top wall of cover 20, it may advantageously take on the green color during the normal operation, the yellow or orange color in case of braked rope C, and the red color when the rope C is braked maximally, or even totally blocked, or a different chromatic language. The climber A will immediately perceive the color looking down.

A further auxiliary function relates to the replacement of rope C when it is worn out, and consists of actuating motor 3 in order to completely unwind the rope C so as to gain access to the hook at which it is connected and thereafter, upon having connected the new rope, winding again completely the new rope onto drum 2.

A further auxiliary function provides for driving the motor 3 with comparatively long delay times and/or higher tolerances in the tension of rope C or vice versa in the slack length, in order to allow tracing of a new climb route by attaching new belay points to the wall or the disposal of a climb route by removing the belay points.

A further auxiliary function provides for driving motor 3 with comparatively short delay times and/or lower tolerances in the tension of rope C or vice versa in the slack length, in order to allow conducting training courses for beginners.

A further auxiliary function provides for tracking the movements made and/o the times of the individual tracks and/or of the entire climb, possibly combined with parameters of the climb route. The tracked data may be stored, possibly associated with a user profile. The tracked data may be shared on the net and/or with a mobile device, such as a smartphone. These functionalities allow to keep track of one's own workouts, consult them and share them. In particular it will be possible to record which route one has climbed, in how much time, with how many falls; visualize which are the critical passages where most climbers fall; share one's results on social networks; add friends and create challenges; set training goals; know which routes are available, of which grade, and whether they are occupied by another user, etc.

The various operating modes and auxiliary functions described above may be managed by one or more software modules run in the controller 7.

In the above, some processes for braking a rope and/or for belaying a climber as referred to in the introductory part of this description have also been discussed in detail.

It is emphasized that the belaying apparatus 1 performs the following functions:

- maintaining a minimum slack length and/or a proper rope tension during climbing, in particular delivering to the climber the necessary rope for his ascent and taking the excess rope,

- allowing also quick draws to the climber,

- allowing the descent of the climber (following a fall or at the end of climbing) at low speed and safely,

- effectively braking the rope in case of fall of the climber,

- making the presence of a belayer person superfluous, thus allowing a climber to carry out physical activity in complete autonomy and in fact being able to guarantee an even higher safety standard in that the human factor is eliminated.

The belaying apparatus 1 further features remarkable advantages, among which:

- the operation is effective irrespectively of the weight of the climber A, - the operation is adapted to ropes C of any diameter, properly sizing the size of the minimum gap 133 that may form within braking device 5,

- the operation is adapted to ropes C of any length, properly sizing the drum 2, - tilt angles of the rope C corresponding to different transverse positions of the climber A on the wall are effectively tolerated.

The above is a description of various embodiments of inventive aspects, and further changes can be made without departing from the scope of the present invention. The shape and/or size and/or location and/or orientation of the various components and/or the succession of the various steps can be changed. The functions of an element or module can be carried out by two or more components or modules, and vice-versa. Components shown directly connected to or contacting each other can have intermediate structures arranged in between them. Steps shown directly following each other can have intermediate steps carried out between them. The details shown in a figure and/or described with reference to a figure or to an embodiment can apply in other figures or embodiments. Not all of the details shown in a figure or described in a same context must necessarily be present in a same embodiment. Features or aspects that turn out to be innovative with respect to the prior art, alone or in combination with other features, should be deemed to be described per se, irrespectively of what is explicitly described as innovative.