The present invention relates to compositions, especially cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions, comprising a cucurbic acid compound and an amino acid-based anionic surfactant, and also to the use of these compositions in a non-therapeutic process for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials.

More particularly, the compositions of the invention are intended for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to denote, for example, the skin, mucous membranes, the lips, the scalp, and keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair.

Patent application EP-A-1 333 021 discloses cucurbic acid compounds such as 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid for promoting desquamation of the skin and stimulating epidermal renewal, combating the signs of ageing of the skin, improving the radiance of the complexion and/or making facial skin smooth. In patent application FR-A-62921255, these compounds are also described for their use as depigmenting agents.

However, the introduction of these compounds mentioned previously into cosmetic compositions in emulsion form, in particular in oil-in-water emulsion form, may greatly impair the stability of the compositions comprising them, which may be reflected, for example, by an appreciable decrease in the viscosity and/or phase separation of the composition.

However, compositions containing cucurbic acid derivatives have insufficient cosmetic properties, especially a tacky feel and a coarse effect, which gives compositions that are relatively unpleasant for a consumer to apply. Moreover, cucurbic acid derivatives also have the drawback of being sparingly soluble, which results in recrystallization of these derivatives, leading to instability of the formulations. The cucurbic acid derivatives are then no longer available to act on the skin.

Thus, there is a need for compositions comprising cucurbic acid compounds, which are stable and which have good cosmetic properties, especially a feel whose texture is not greasy and not tacky. Surprisingly, the inventors have observed that the use of a cucurbic acid compound in combination with an amino acid-based anionic surfactant makes it possible to achieve such objectives.

More precisely, the present invention relates to a composition, especially cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- at least one cucurbic acid compound especially of formula (I) below:

in which:

Ri represents a radical COOR ₃ , R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C ₄ alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;

R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a saturated or unsaturated branched or cyclic hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms;

and also the optical isomers thereof, and the corresponding salts, and - at least one anionic surfactant chosen from N-acylamino acids and/or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or ammonium salts thereof or salts of a cation derived from an amine. The compositions obtained show good stability over time and have a pleasant appearance and, during their application, good sensory properties.

The term "stable composition" means a composition which, after 24 hours of storage at any temperature between 4°C and 50°C, shows little or no macroscopic change in colour, odour or viscosity.

According to yet another of its subjects, the present invention relates to a non- therapeutic treatment process for caring for or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to the said keratin materials of a composition in accordance with the invention.

Throughout the description that follows, and unless otherwise mentioned: The term "alkyl" means a linear or branched saturated C8-C2 ₄ , better still C12-C20 and more preferentially C14-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain.

The term "acyl" means a linear or branched saturated C8-C24, better still C12-C20 and more preferentially C14-C18 hydrocarbon-based chain comprising a carboxylic function whose hydroxyl function (-OH) has been substituted.

Cucurbic acid compound The cucurbic acid-based compound is a compound chosen from those corresponding to formula (I) below:

(I) in which:

Ri represents a radical COOR ₃ , R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C ₄ alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;

R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a saturated or unsaturated branched or cyclic hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms;

and also the optical isomers thereof, and corresponding salts.

Preferably, Ri denotes a radical chosen from -COOH, -COOMe, -COO-CH2- CH _3> -COO-CH ₂ -CH(OH)-CH ₂ OH, -COOCH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ OH and -COOCH ₂ - CH(OH)-CH _3. Preferentially, Ri denotes a radical -COOH.

Preferentially, R ₂ denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon-based radical, preferably containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. In particular, R ₂ may be a pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl radical.

According to one embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is chosen from 3- hydroxy-2-[(2Z)-2-pentenyl]cyclopentaneacetic acid and 3-hydroxy-2- pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid and/or salts thereof. Preferably, compound (I) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid and/or salts thereof; especially a sodium salt.

The salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potassium; salts of alkaline-earth metal, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium, metal salts, for example zinc, aluminium, manganese or copper; ammonium salts of formula NH ₄ ⁺ ; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts. Salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese and zinc salts are preferably used. The sodium salt is preferentially used.

The cucurbic acid-based compound of formula (I) defined previously may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 1 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Anionic surfactant based on N-acylamino acids and/or salts thereof

The anionic surfactants based on N-acylamino acids and/or salts thereof are especially of formula (II)

R'i(CO)N(R'2)CH(R'3)(CH2)n(CO)OM (II) in which:

- n is an integer equal to 0, 1 or 2,

- R'i represents a linear or branched C5 to C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,

- R' ₂ represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci to C ₄ alkyl group,

- R'3 represents a radical chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group, a linear or branched C3 or C ₄ alkyl radical and a group COOM, and

- M denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium group or a cation derived from amine.

Among these compounds, mention may be made of:

- sarcosinates and acids thereof (compounds of formula (II) R'2 = CH3, R'3 = H and n = 1 ), for instance the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97 ^® by the company Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L30 ^® by the company SEPPIC, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN ^® by the company Nikkol, and sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN ^® by the company Nikkol; - alaninates and acids thereof (compounds of formula (II) R'2 = CH3, R'3 = H and n = 0), for instance sodium N-lauroyl N-methyl amidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30 ^® by the company Nikkol, or sold under the name Alanone ALE ^® by the company Kawaken, and triethanolamine N- lauroyl N-methyl alanine sold under the name Alanone Alta ^® by the company Kawaken;

- glutamates and acids thereof, for instance lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, and the alkali metal salts such as the Na, Li or K and preferably Na or K salts, the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the Mg salts or the ammonium or organic amine salts of the said acids.

- Mention may be made especially of the compounds bearing the INCI names lauroyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate and sodium olivoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.

- Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by the company Ajinomoto and especially under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 1 1 PF, Amisoft MK-1 1 , Amisoft LK-1 1 and Amisoft CK-1 1 , or alternatively sold by the company Keminova Italiana SRL.

- Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative or a salt of the said derivative, for instance the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 sold by Ajinomoto. According to a particular embodiment, use is made of the monosodium salt of N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid, more particularly the product sold by the company Ajinomoto under the reference Amisoft HS 1 1 .

The anionic surfactant(s) chosen from N-acylamino acids and/or salts thereof are more particularly compounds of formula (II) in which R' ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom, R' ₃ denotes a group COOM, and n is equal to 2.

The anionic surfactant(s) chosen from N-acylamino acids and/or salts thereof are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in a content that may range from 0.1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.25% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions used according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with human keratin materials such as the skin, the scalp, the hair and the nails.

The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of aqueous solutions, aqueous-alcoholic solutions, emulsions, especially oil-in-water (O W) emulsions, water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions or multiple emulsions (triple: W/O/W or 0/W/O), or aqueous gels. The compositions may also be anhydrous. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. Preferably, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion. The physiologically acceptable medium may comprise water, organic solvents such as a Ci-Cs alcohol, especially ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n- butanol; a polyol such as glycerol; a glycol such as butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propylene glycol or polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; polyol ethers. When the composition is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 5% to 80% by weight and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, waxes, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics field. The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may also contain lipid vesicles.

When the composition is an oily solution or gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an amount of aqueous phase which may range, for example, from 30% to 97% by weight, preferably from 40% to 95% by weight and better still from 50% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase comprises water and any other water-soluble compound optionally present, especially such as water-soluble solvents and additives (for example hydrophilic surfactants and active agents).

Water-soluble solvents that may especially be mentioned are lower alcohols and polyols. The term "lower alcohol" means alcohols comprising from 1 to 8 and more particularly from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycols (for example PEG-8). These alcohols and/or polyols may be present in the composition in an amount preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 25% and better still from 1 % to 15% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition comprises a fatty phase which comprises at least the polar oil according to the invention. The fatty phase consists of oils and of any other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents that may be present in the composition of the invention. Any cosmetically acceptable oil may be used.

The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.

Examples of oils that may be mentioned include:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, for instance those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,;

- synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae R ¹ COOR ² and R ¹ OR ² in which R ¹ represents a fatty acid residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R ² represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631 );

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil;

- volatile linear alkanes, advantageously of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 1 1 to 13 carbon atoms. As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of those described in patent application WO 2007/068 371 from the company Cognis. As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (Cg), n-decane (Cio), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (C12), n- tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16) and n-heptadecane (C17), and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, use will be made of a mixture of undecane (Cn) and of tridecane (C13) as obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n- tetradecane (Ci ₄ ) such as those sold by Sasol under the references, respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof. - silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol);

- partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils, for instance those described in document JP-A-2-295 912;

- and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of oils chosen from:

- esters derived from the reaction of at least one fatty acid containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms and even better still from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, and of at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and better still from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate/caprylate (or octyl caprate/caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, lactic acid esters of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, and dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product which is sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis,

- fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis),

- glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, for instance the 2- ethylhexyl ether of glycerol (INCI name: ethylhexyl glycerol) such as Sensiva

SC 50 from the company Schulke & Mayr GmbH, The fatty phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 5% to 60%, better still ranging from 5% to 50% and preferably from 10% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount does not include the emulsifying ester of polyhydroxylated fatty acid and of polyalkylene glycol.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 40% and preferably from 10% to 30% by weight of oils relative to the total weight of the composition. In addition to the oils indicated above, the composition of the invention may contain other fatty substances in the fatty phase, such as fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance stearic acid; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1 -4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; silicone gums (dimethiconol), non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, for instance the products sold under the names KSG 6 and KSG 16 by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 and EPSX by the company Dow Corning, or under the name Gransil by the company Grant Industries; waxes, for example mineral waxes, waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswax, waxes of plant origin, hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25°C, fatty esters and glycerides that are solid at 25°C, synthetic waxes and silicone waxes; pasty fatty substances such as and also butters such as shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, muru muru butter and cupuac butter, and mixtures thereof.

Emulsifiers

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional emulsifiers (or surfactants) other than the N- acylamino acid-based anionic surfactant.

The emulsifier may be chosen, for example, from nonionic emulsifiers and especially from fatty acid derivatives of polyols, and succinic-terminated polyolefins, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the emulsifier is chosen from fatty acid esters of polyols.

According to the invention, the term "fatty acid esters of polyols" means esters of a fatty acid and of a polyol in which the fatty acid comprises a C6-C22 and preferably Ci ₆ -C ₂ o alkyl chain and the polyol is chosen from glycerol, a polyglycerol and sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. The fatty acid may also be in a polymeric form, as is the case for polyhydroxystearic acid (12-hydroxystearic acid polymer).

According to a particular embodiment, the fatty acid ester of a polyol is a C16- C20 fatty acid ester of glycerol and/or sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, the laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 ^® by the company Goldschmidt. Preferably, the emulsifier is chosen from esters of fatty acids, preferably of C16- C20, in particular stearic acid or isostearic acid, and of a polyol chosen from glycerol and/or sorbitan.

The emulsifier may be present in a content (of solids) ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

In a known manner, the composition of the invention for topical application may also contain one or more adjuvants that are common in cosmetics or dermatology. Adjuvants that may be mentioned include thickeners, active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, fragrances, solvents, salts, fillers, mineral or organic sunscreens (= UV-screening agents), dyestuffs, basic agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine or sodium hydroxide) or acidic agents (citric acid), and mixtures thereof. These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.01 % to 30% of the total weight of the composition, and, depending on their nature, they are introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the oily phase, or alternatively into vesicles or any other type of vector. These adjuvants and the concentrations thereof should be such that they do not modify the properties desired for the composition of the invention.

Depending on the desired viscosity of the composition according to the invention, it is possible to incorporate therein one or more hydrophilic thickeners. Examples that may be mentioned include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) by the company Noveon; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as the poly(2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS (INCI name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/lsohexadecane/ Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers, for instance xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates and modified or unmodified celluloses; and mixtures thereof. When they are present, these gelling agents must be introduced in an amount such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. Lipophilic gelling agents that may especially be mentioned include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone Gel VS38 from Rheox), or hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium hectorite) sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company Rheox.

As active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include moisturizers; anti-inflammatory agents; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin K, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 or PP (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; keratolytic and/or desquamating agents, depigmenting agents; retinoids; hydrocortisone; melatonin; self-tanning agents, algal, fungal, plant, yeast or bacterial extracts; steroids; antibacterial active agents; enzymes; flavonoids; tensioning agents, starches, wax dispersions, mixed silicates and colloidal particles of mineral fillers; ceramides; calmatives; mattifying agents; hair-loss counteractants and/or hair-regrowth agents; antiwrinkle agents; essential oils; and mixtures thereof; and any active agent that is suitable for the final purpose of the composition.

A composition of the invention can be provided in all the formulation forms which can be envisaged.

In particular, the composition may be in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic, aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution; a dispersion of the lotion or serum type; emulsions, especially water-in-oil, oil-in-water or multiple emulsions; a suspension; microcapsules or microparticles; vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type; an aqueous or oily lotion or a lotion in serum form; capsules, granules, syrups or tablets; foams, solid preparations; an aerosol composition also comprising a propellant under pressure.

A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a haircare composition, especially a shampoo, a hair-setting lotion, a treating lotion, a styling cream or gel, a dye composition, in particular an oxidation dye composition, hair-restructuring lotions, a permanent-waving composition (in particular a composition for the first step of a permanent-waving operation), a lotion or a gel for combating hair loss, or an antiparasitic shampoo. It can also be provided in the form of a cleansing, protecting, treating or caring composition for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for the major anatomical folds or for the body (for example, day cream, night cream, make-up-removing cream, anti-sun composition, protective or care body milk, after-sun milk, lotion, gel or foam for caring for the skin, such as cleansing lotions, or artificial tanning compositions); a composition for making up the body or face, such as a foundation; a bath composition; a deodorizing composition comprising, for example, a bactericidal agent; an aftershave composition; a depilatory composition; a composition for countering insect stings or bites; a pain-relieving composition; or a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition for treating certain skin diseases, such as eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, lichen or severe pruritus. When a composition according to the invention is intended for a use of peeling type, it can also be provided in all the formulation forms mentioned above, provided that it is easily removed by rinsing, in particular in the form of an aqueous gel or an aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic solution. A composition according to the invention can be applied by any means which makes possible uniform distribution and in particular using a cotton wool swab, a rod, a brush, a gauze, a spatula or a pad, or else by spraying, and can be removed by rinsing with water or using a mild detergent. A composition according to the invention may be in a fluid form of vaporizable or non-vaporizable liquid type, in the form of a paste, a gel or an impregnated support, in solid form, especially compact, pulverulent or cast, or in the form of a stick. A composition according to the invention may also be in the form of a care product, an antisun or after-sun product, a daily photoprotective care product, a body product, a foundation to be applied to the face or the neck, a concealer product, a complexion corrector, a tinted cream or a makeup base for making up the face, or a body makeup composition.

A composition according to the invention may be used for the purposes of improving the general condition of the epidermis, in particular of the skin, and especially for maintaining or restoring its physiological functions and/or its aesthetic appearance.

Thus, a composition according to the invention can advantageously be employed in order to combat ageing of the epidermis, to maintain and/or stimulate the moisturizing and/or to combat the drying out of the skin, to improve the tonicity of the skin, to maintain or restore the suppleness and elasticity of the skin, to improve the mineralization of the epidermis, to improve the vitality of the epidermis, to facilitate intercellular exchanges, and to combat chapping and the cracked appearance of the skin.

A composition according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic and/or dermatological application.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from the examples that follow, which are given as non-limiting illustrations. In the text hereinbelow or hereinabove, the proportions are given as weight percentages, unless otherwise indicated. Example 1 :

An O/W emulsion according to the invention (composition A), and a

comparative O/W emulsion (composition B) not comprising any surfactant according to the invention, were prepared, and the stability of these

compositions was observed. Cetyl alcohol 0.5 0.5

Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2- pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid 6.67% i.e. 6.67% i.e.

at 30% in a water/dipropylene 2% AM 2% AM

glycol mixture (70/30 by

weight)

Monosodium salt of n-stearoyl- L-glutamic acid (Amisoft HS 1 1 1 - PF from Ajinomoto)

Stearic acid 1 .5 1 .5

Capric/caprylic acid

8 8

triglycerides

Apricot kernel oil 6 6

Myristyl myristate (Tegosoft

2 2

MM from Evonik)

Acrylates /C10-30 alkyl

acrylate crosspolymer

0.63% AM 0.63% AM

(Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer

from Lubrizol)

Sodium hydroxide 0.38

Preserving agents qs qs

Water qs 100 100

Procedure:

Heat the fatty phase to about 65-70°C. Swell the acrylic polymer in the aqueous phase. Next, emulsify using a deflocculator, by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase, and then allow to cool with stirring.

A (invention) B 1 -month Stable unstable (the oil globules

stability at Fine homogeneous flocculate)

45°C and 4°C dispersion

The composition according to the invention (Ex. A) containing the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid and the surfactant according to the invention is stable and homogeneous for at least 1 month at 4°C and at 45°C, whereas the composition not comprising this surfactant is unstable. The edges of the emulsion observed by microscope are loose and the globules flocculate.