Cosmetic kit and process for making up the eyelashes

The present invention relates to a cosmetic kit for coating and/or treating keratin materials, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising a specific composition and applicator; and a cosmetic process for coating and/or treating keratin materials using this kit.

It is known to use mascaras to make eyelashes more visible and therefore more attractive. The term "mascara" denotes a composition intended to be applied on the eyelashes: it can be a makeup composition for eyelashes, a makeup base for eyelashes (also called a base-coat), a composition to be applied on a mascara, also called a top-coat, or a composition for the cosmetic treatment of eyelashes. The mascara is more particularly intended for the eyelashes of human beings, but also for false eyelashes.

However, the makeup operation is often tedious, particularly time-consuming and difficult to achieve and/or to reproduce, imperfect in that it can be uneven and/or have flaws (for example particles), and/or have an inadequate or unsuitable visual impact in respect of the needs of the users and of the current time. Moreover, in use, mascaras have some drawbacks: the properties thereof change over time, they are not usable up to the end, etc. Most of the time, these problems stem from the fact that it is necessary to apply with many brush strokes to achieve the desired result, during which the mascara dries and forms particles which accumulate on the eyelashes, on the brush and in the bottle, which degrades the makeup and also the quality of the product.

Thus, there is a need for even and high-loading (i.e., highly volumizing) eyelash makeup, applied in one go. Such makeup would represent a major advance in solving the problems mentioned above.

Current mascaras do not offer this possibility, unless making do with light makeup, as they do not allow enough product to be applied in one go. However, consumers have high expectations in terms of volume. The present invention meets the abovementioned need, and enables even and high- loading eyelash makeup, in one go. The makeup obtained is homogeneous and distributed all along the lashes.

The present invention thus relates to a cosmetic kit for coating and/or treating keratin materials, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising:

(i) a composition for coating and/or treating keratin materials, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising at least one physiologically acceptable medium, at least one particle chosen from dyestuffs and non-dyestuffs, and at least one polymeric dispersing agent ("composition according to the invention"), and

(ii) an applicator (10) comprising a gripping member (12) and an application member (14) borne by the gripping member (12), the application member (14) comprising a helical spring (24) ("applicator according to the invention").

The present invention also relates to a process for coating and/or treating keratin materials, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention on keratin materials, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, using the applicator according to the invention.

The cosmetic kit according to the invention comprises a coating composition having a high Intrinsic Coating Capacity (ICC). The ICC characterizes the loading potential. The method for characterizing the ICC, particularly with a robot as described by way of example, makes it possible to avoid the stress effect of conventional mascara applicators (such as fiber brushes and elastomer brushes).

Composition according to the invention

The composition according to the invention thus comprises:

- at least one physiologically acceptable medium,

- at least one particle chosen from dyestuffs and non-dyestuffs, and

- at least one polymeric dispersing agent.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition and in particular a mascara.

Polymeric dispersing agent The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polymeric dispersing agent, in particular capable of dispersing the solid particles in the composition.

The polymeric dispersing agent is preferably water-soluble. The term "water-soluble" polymeric dispersing agent denotes a polymeric dispersing agent which, introduced into water at a concentration equal to 1%, results in a macroscopically homogeneous solution of which the light transmittance, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a 1 cm thick sample, is at least 10%.

Preferably, the dispersing polymers according to the invention are chosen from acrylic copolymers. Mention can be made of sodium polymethacrylate, styrene/maleic anhydride copolymers or copolymers which are composed of a principal chain and of one or more grafted side chain(s) optionally substituted at the end thereof by an alkyl group comprising less than 6 carbon atoms.

Among acrylic copolymers, mention can be made of sodium polymethacrylate such as Darvan 7-N marketed by Vanderbilt, styrene/maleic anhydride copolymer marketed under the name SMA 1000 HNA by Cray Valley.

Preferably, the polymeric dispersing agent comprises a principal chain and a side chain grafted on the principal chain, said principal chain being obtained from at least one monomer comprising at least one a,b- monoethylene unsaturation and at least one function chosen in the group composed of the following functions: carboxylic acid, carboxylic acid ester, carboxylic acid salt and mixtures thereof; said side chain including at least linear or branched C2-C8 alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture of alkyleneoxy radicals; said side chain being optionally substituted by a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

According to a specific embodiment, the dispersing polymers are composed of a principal chain and of several grafted side chains optionally substituted at the end thereof by an alkyl group comprising less than 6 carbon atoms.

Within the scope of the invention, and unless specified otherwise, the term "principal chain" encompasses the terms "backbone chain" or "backbone" of the polymer. The principal chain, comprising the highest number of carbon atoms, is differentiated from the side chains.

Within the scope of the present invention, the expression "chain (...) obtained from at least one monomer" means that said chain corresponds to the polymer obtained by polymerizing said monomer. The dispersing polymers according to the invention are therefore also referred to as "comb polymers", the branches of the comb corresponding to the side chains (or pendant chains) composed of grafts.

The principal chain of the dispersing polymers according to the invention comprises at least one carboxylic acid function or an ester or a salt thereof. It can also comprise mixtures of these functions, esters and salts.

The principal chain can therefore comprise pendant functions COOH, COOAIk or COO X ⁺ , or mixtures thereof, where Aik represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms and X represents an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium.

The term "alkyl group" denotes here a hydrocarbon, saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group comprising, unless specified otherwise, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. By way of examples, mention can be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tertbutyl or pentyl groups.

Within the scope of the present invention, the term "quaternary ammonium" denotes a cation obtained, particularly by alkylation, from an amine of formula NR1R2R3, each of the groups Ri, R2 et R3, identical or different, representing H or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms. In particular, the quaternary ammoniums according to the invention encompass the ammonium cation IMH ₄ T

According to a specific embodiment, the dispersing polymers are composed of a principal chain and of several grafted side chains optionally substituted at the end thereof by an alkyl group comprising less than 6 carbon atoms, and preferably by a methyl group.

Within the scope of the invention, the expression "side chain grafted on the principal chain" means that the side chain is linked to the principal chain by means of a covalent bond.

Mention can for example be made of polyethylene oxide and/or polypropylene oxide chains grafted by means of an ester function to the principal chain, the ester function optionally resulting from the reaction between a carboxylic acid function of the monomer of the principal chain and a hydroxyl function of the polyethylene oxide and/or the polypropylene oxide.

Within the scope of the invention, the term "alkyleneoxy radical" denotes a radical -A’-O- wherein A’ represents an alkylene radical. The term "alkylene radical" is intended to denote a divalent radical derived from an alkyl group as defined above devoid of two hydrogen atoms. The alkyleneoxy radicals can be linear or branched, A’ can therefore represent a linear or branched alkylene radical, comprising particularly 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alkyleneoxy radicals comprise 2 or 3 carbon atoms. Mention can be made for example of the groups -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0- (ethyleneoxy), -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-0-, -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -0- or -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0- (propyleneoxy).

Within the scope of the present invention, the side chains of the dispersing polymers can comprise mixtures of alkyleneoxy mixtures of different sizes. According to this embodiment, the side chain can comprise a mixture of radicals -(AVO) and (A’ ₂ -0)-, A’i and A’ ₂ representing different linear or branched alkylene radicals. In particular, the side chain can comprise a mixture of ethyleneoxy and propyleneoxy radicals.

The side chain (or side chains) of the dispersing polymer can be substituted by a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms.

According to an embodiment, the principal chain of the dispersing polymer is obtained from at least one polymer chosen from (meth)acrylic acids, the esters thereof, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

According to this embodiment, the principal chain of the polymer is chosen from poly(meth)acrylic acids, poly(meth)acrylic acid esters, poly(meth)acrylates and mixtures thereof.

According to an embodiment, the principal chain of the dispersing polymer is obtained from a methacrylic acid salt, particularly sodium methacrylate. According to this embodiment, the principal chain of the dispersing polymer is sodium polymethacrylate.

The dispersing polymers comprise, in addition to the principal chain, one or more side chains, grafted on said principal chain. In other words, the polymers according to the invention are composed of a principal polymeric chain comprising a given function (carboxylic acid, or a salt or ester thereof) by means of which the side chains are linked.

The dispersing polymers can be represented as being composed of a given number of repeat units comprising repeat units derived from (meth)acrylic acids, esters thereof, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, and grafted units, derived from the preceding units, comprising a graft including at least one alkyleneoxy radical as defined above, where applicable substituted by an alkyl chain as defined above.

According to an embodiment, the dispersing polymer comprises at least one non- substituted side chain. Preferably, all the side chains of the dispersing polymer are non- substituted. The term "non-substituted side chain" denotes a side chain as defined including at least one linear or branched C ₂ -C ₃ alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture of alkyleneoxy radicals, and comprising a terminal hydrogen atom.

According to an embodiment, the dispersing polymer comprises at least one side chain substituted by a methyl or ethyl, particularly methyl, chain. Preferably, the side chains of the dispersing polymer are substituted by a methyl chain. According to an embodiment, the dispersing polymer comprises at least one side chain composed of ethyleneoxy, propyleneoxy radicals or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the side chains of the polymer are composed of ethyleneoxy, propyleneoxy radicals or mixtures thereof.

According to an embodiment, the side chains of the polymer can be distributed randomly, statistically or in sequence form (block or sequenced copolymers).

The dispersing polymers according to the invention can be block copolymers corresponding to the assembly, on one hand, of blocks with side chains and, on the other, of blocks without side chains.

Preferably, the side chains of the dispersing polymer are distributed randomly or statistically. Preferably, they are distributed statistically.

According to an embodiment, the dispersing polymer according to the invention is linear. In particular, it is not a cross-linked polymer.

According to a preferred embodiment, the dispersing polymer is a comb copolymer comprising a principal chain of polymeth acrylic acid (or one of the salts thereof) grafted with polyethylene oxide and/or polypropylene oxide side chains.

According to an embodiment, the side chain comprises 20 to 200, preferably 50 to 150, and preferably 50 to 100, alkyleneoxy groups.

According to an embodiment, the side chain comprises only ethyleneoxy groups.

According to an embodiment, the side chain comprises only propyleneoxy groups.

According to an embodiment, the side chain comprises a mixture of ethyleneoxy groups and propyleneoxy groups, said groups being distributed randomly or statistically.

According to an embodiment, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the dispersing polymer mentioned above ranges from 10,000 to 4,000,000 g/mol, preferably from 20,000 to 2,000,000 g/mol, and more preferably from 30,000 to 1 ,900,000 g/mol.

Preferably, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the dispersing polymer mentioned above ranges from 40,000 to 1,500,000, preferably from 42,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 45,000 to 500,000, and more preferably from 50,000 to 100,000g/mol.

According to a preferred embodiment, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the dispersing polymer mentioned above ranges from 20,000 to 300,000 g/mol, preferably from 20,000 to 200,000 g/mol, and preferably from 30,000 g/mol to 120,000 g/mol. Preferably, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the dispersing polymer mentioned above ranges from 40,000 to 80,000 g/mol.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the dispersing polymer mentioned above ranges from 50,000 to 90,000 g/mol, preferably from 70,000 g/mol to 80,000 g/mol. Preferably, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the dispersing polymer mentioned above is equal to approximately 75,000 g/mol.

The choice of this suitable range of molecular weights makes it possible to obtain a good compromise in respect, on one hand, of limiting depletion phenomena and, on the other, an effectiveness not sensitive to concentration.

According to an embodiment, the dispersing polymer according to the invention comprises at least one unit of the following formula (I):

[Chem 1] wherein: n is an integer ranging from 50 to 4000, preferably from 60 to 2500; i is an integer ranging from 1 to n; the groups R’,, identical or different, represent, independently of one another, H or a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 5, and preferably 1 or 2, carbon atoms; and the groups R,, identical or different, are chosen, independently of one another, in the group composed of: -C(=0)0H, -C(=0)0X ⁺ and -C(=0)0-(A) _p -R _a , at least one of the groups R, representing -C(=0)0-(A) _p -R _a , where:

X is an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, particularly Na or K; or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium; R _a represents H or a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising 1 to 6, preferably 1 to 4, and preferably 1 or 2, carbon atoms;

A represents a linear or branched, C2-C8 alkyleneoxy radical or mixture thereof; and p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150.

The dispersing polymer according to the invention can therefore consist of the repetition of n units -CH ₂ -CH(R’i)(Ri)-, each of these units optionally being identical or different, according to the nature of R, and R’, for each unit, and at least one of these units comprising a group -C(=0)0-(A) _p -R _a , corresponding to a grafted side chain.

According to an embodiment, the dispersing polymer according to the invention comprises at least one repeat unit (Ti) and at least one repeat unit (T ₂ ), said repeat units having the following respective formulas:

[Chem 2] wherein: p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150;

X is H or an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, and is particularly Na or K; or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium;

R _a represents H or a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising 1 to 6, preferably 1 to 4, and preferably 1 or 2, carbon atoms;

R and R’, identical or different, represent, independently of one another, H or a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 5, and preferably 1 or 2, carbon atoms; and

A represents a linear or branched, C2-C8, preferably C2-C3, alkyleneoxy radical, or mixture thereof.

According to an embodiment, the dispersing polymer is composed of x repeat units (Ti) and of y repeat units (T ₂ ), these units being distributed randomly or statistically, where: x is an integer ranging from 50 to 3000, preferably from 60 to 1500; and y is an integer ranging from 5 to 1000, preferably from 5 to 600; the sum x+y corresponding to the number n defined above.

According to the invention, the repeat units (Ti) and (T ₂ ) can be alternated randomly in the polymer mentioned above.

According to the invention, the repeat units (Ti) and (T ₂ ) can be alternated statistically in the polymer mentioned above.

According to the invention, the repeat units (Ti) and (T ₂ ) can be distributed in sequence blocks in the polymer mentioned above.

In an embodiment, in formulas (I), (Ti) and (T ₂ ) defined above, X represents Na.

According to an embodiment, in formulas (I) and (T ₂ ) defined above, each R _a represents H or a methyl group.

In an embodiment, in formulas (I) and (T ₂ ) defined above, each R _a represents H.

According to an embodiment, in formulas (I) and (T ₂ ) defined above, each R _a represents a methyl group. According to an embodiment, in formula (Ti) defined above, R is H or a methyl group. According to an embodiment, in formula (I) defined above, the groups R’, are H or a methyl group.

According to an embodiment, in formula (T ₂ ) defined above, R’ is H or a methyl group. According to an embodiment, in the formula (T ₂ ) defined above, the radical A complies with the following formula (II) or (III):

[Chem 3] wherein: - Ai represents a radical -CH ₂ CH ₂ 0-;

- A ₂ represents a radical -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )0- or -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -0-;

- j and k, identical or different, represent independently of one another, an integer ranging from 0 to 50, preferably from 0 to 25; on the condition that the sum j + k is greater than or equal to 1 , and preferably greater than or equal to 50.

According to an embodiment, the dispersing polymer complies with the following formula:

[Chem 4] wherein:

R’a is H or CH ₃ ; x is an integer ranging from 50 to 3000; y is an integer ranging from 5 to 1000; and p is an integer ranging from 20 to 200, the units -CH ₂ -C(R)(C(=0)0Na)- and -CH ₂ -C(R’)(C(=0)0-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0) _p R’a)- being distributed randomly or statistically.

Preferably, the dispersing polymer complies with the following formula: [Chem 5] wherein x, y and p are as defined above, the units -CH ₂ -C(R)(C(=0)0Na)- and -CH ₂ - C(R’)(C(=0)0-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0) _p CH ₃ )- being distributed randomly or statistically, preferably statistically.

According to an embodiment, the dispersing polymer is a copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid and polyethylene oxide methyl ether methacrylate.

According to another embodiment, the polymer is a copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid and polypropylene oxide methyl ether methacrylate.

According to an embodiment, the dispersing polymer is a copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid and polyethylene oxide)(propylene oxide) methyl ether methacrylate.

The dispersing polymer according to the invention is for example described in the document US 6034208 and is obtained by means of known processes, and particularly by radical solution polymerization, in direct or inverse emulsion, in suspension or precipitation in solvents, in the presence of priming systems and transfer agents, or in controlled radical polymerization and preferably in nitroxide-mediated polymerization (NMP) or cobaloxime- mediate polymerization, in atom transfer radical polymerization (ATRP), in radical polymerization mediated by sulfur derivatives, chosen from carbamates, dithioesters or trithiocarbonates (RAFT) or xanthates.

It can be totally or partially neutralized by one or more neutralizing agents having a monovalent or polyvalent cation, said agents being preferably chosen from ammonia or from hydroxides and/or oxides of calcium, magnesium, or from hydroxides of sodium, potassium, lithium, or from primary, secondary or tertiary aliphatic and/or cyclic amines such as preferably stearylamine, ethanolamines (mono-, di-, triethanolamine), mono and diethylamine, cyclohexylamine, methylcyclohexylamine, amino methyl propanol, morpholine, and preferably in that the neutralizing agent is chosen from triethanolamine and sodium hydroxide.

It can also be separated into several phases, according to static or dynamic processes, by one or more solvents belonging preferably to the group composed of water, methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanols, acetone, tetrahydrofuran or mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the dispersing agent is a co-methacrylic methacrylic acid copolymer of POE PPO OH: Polyether polycarbonate, sodium salt in aqueous solution.

Preferably, the dispersing polymer has the INCI name Sodium Methacrylate/PEG/PPG-45/15 Hydroxypropyl Methacrylate Copolymer.

A composition according to the invention preferably includes a total water-soluble dispersing agent content greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, more preferably at a content ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular at a content ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Physiologically acceptable medium

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

This physiologically acceptable medium comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase or at least one continuous oily phase.

Indeed, mascaras are essentially prepared according to two types of formulations: aqueous mascaras referred to as "cream mascaras", in the form of dispersion of particles (particularly waxes) in water, or anhydrous or low-water-content mascaras, referred to as "waterproof mascaras", in the form of dispersions of particles (particularly waxes) in organic solvents.

Continuous aqueous phase

According to a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase. This aqueous phase comprises water. The term "continuous" aqueous phase means that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25°C, greater than 23 pS/cm (microSiemens/cm), with the conductivity being measured for example using a Mettler Toledo MPC227 conductometer and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, in such a way as to remove air bubbles that can form between the two electrodes of the cell. Reading the conductivity is done as soon as the value of the conductometer has stabilized. An average is taken over at least three successive measurements.

Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase is present at a content greater than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably at a content greater than or equal to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the invention, preferably the continuous aqueous phase is present at a content between 20 and 50% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Water is present in the continuous aqueous phase at a content greater than or equal to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the water content of the aqueous phase is greater than or equal to 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the invention, more preferably, water is present at a content between 15% and 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

A water suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and/or a spring water such as Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc spring water.

The continuous aqueous phase can also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at ambient temperature 25°C) such as for example monoalcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having particularly 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having particularly 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono, di- or tripropylene glycol alkyl(Ci-C4)ethers, mono, di- or triethylene glycol alkyl(Ci-C4)ethers, and mixtures thereof. According to an embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least one monoalcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and/or at least one polyol having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent(s) is(are) present in the continuous aqueous phase at a content between 1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 2% and 15% by weight, preferably between 3% and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition according to the invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase, it can comprise an oil dispersed in this aqueous phase.

Continuous oily phase

According to a second embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one continuous oily phase.

The term "continuous" oily phase means that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25°C, less than 23 pS/cm (microSiemens/cm), with the conductivity being measured for example using a Mettler Toledo MPC227 conductometer and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, in such a way as to remove air bubbles that can form between the two electrodes of the cell. Reading the conductivity is done as soon as the value of the conductometer has stabilized. An average is taken over at least three successive measurements.

The continuous oily phase comprises one or more oils or non-aqueous fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The oil can be chosen from volatile oils and/or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

The oil(s) can be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "volatile oil" is intended to mean any oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin fibers, in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent(s) and volatile oils according to the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, having a vapor pressure different to zero, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3 at 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more specifically ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg). The term "non-volatile oil" denotes an oil remaining on keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and particularly having a vapor pressure less than 10 ^_3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

These oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof. A "hydrocarbon oil" is an oil containing principally hydrogen and carbon atoms and possible oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and particularly branched C8-C16 alkanes such as petroleum-based C8-C16 isoalkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Further volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Solt by SHELL, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

Other volatile oils that can be used are volatile silicones, such as for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, particularly those having a viscosity £ 8 centistokes (810 ^-6 m ² /s), and particularly having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention can be made, as a volatile silicone oil suitable for use in the invention, in particular, of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Mention can also be made of volatile alkyl trisiloxane linear oils of the following general formula:

[Chem 6]

R where R represents an alkyl group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms and in which one or several hydrogen atoms can be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Of the above oils, mention can be made of: 3-butyl 1 ,1,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,

3-propyl 1 ,1,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1 ,1,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, corresponding to the oils for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

The composition can also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, and in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils.

As a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention can be made of: hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as triesters of fatty acids and glycerol for which the fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, with the latter able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oils, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy seed, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passiflora, musk rose oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane; synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters such as the oils having the formula R1COOR2 wherein R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms where R1 + R2 ³ 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate of isostearate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; carbonates, acetates, citrates, and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the composition according to the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes including alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl-trisiloxanes or (2- phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

The fluorinated oils that can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847752.

The continuous oily phase can be present at a content greater than or equal to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the continuous oily phase content is greater than or equal to 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the invention, more preferably, this content is between 15% and 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Particles chosen from dyestuffs and non-dvestuffs

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one particle chosen from dyestuffs and non-dyestuffs.

Preferably, the dyestuffs are chosen from powder materials, liposoluble dyes, water- soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the non-dyestuffs are chosen from film-forming polymers, preferably latexes, fillers, waxes and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dye particle and at least non-dye particle.

Dyestuffs According to an embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one dyestuff.

Within the scope of the present invention, the dyestuffs used make it possible to give the composition a color preferably other than white.

This (or this) dyestuff(s) is (or are) preferably chosen from the group composed of powder materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention include at least one powder dyestuff. The powder dyestuffs can be chosen from pigments and nacres, preferably from pigments.

The pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic, coated or uncoated. Of the inorganic pigments, mention can be made of metal oxides and particularly titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, along with iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue. Of the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with iron blue and chromium oxide in particular, titanium mica with an organic pigments of the aforementioned type and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, b- carotene, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11 , D&C Violet 2, D&C orange 5, Quinoline Yellow, annatto.

Preferably, the dyestuffs present in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from pigments, and preferably from metal oxides, and more preferably from iron oxides.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one dyestuff at a total content greater than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the dyestuff is present at a total content ranging from 8 to 35% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably at a total content ranging from 12 to 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably at a total content ranging from 15 to 25% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise non-dyestuffs chosen from film-forming polymers in aqueous dispersion, fillers, waxes and mixtures thereof.

Film-forming polymers

According to an embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one film-forming polymer. The film-forming polymer can be chosen from film-forming polymers in aqueous dispersion, water-soluble film-forming polymers and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of film-forming polymer(s) and optionally at least one additional film forming polymer (not present in the form of aqueous dispersion of particles, such as a water- soluble film-forming polymer).

In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" denotes a polymer capable of forming alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and more preferably a deposit for which the cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolated and manipulated in an isolated manner, for example when said deposit is produced by pouring on a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of particles formed of one or more film-forming polymers.

It can also include at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer. Thus, it can include at least one additional film-forming polymer, separate from particles of film-forming polymer(s) present in aqueous dispersion form.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total dry matter content of film-forming polymer(s), i.e., film-forming polymer(s) in aqueous dispersion and/or water-soluble film-forming polymer(s), greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 6% and more preferably greater than or equal to 7% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Film-forming polymer is aqueous dispersion

Such a film-forming polymer is present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally bears the name of (pseudo)latex, i.e., latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

A dispersion suitable for the invention can comprise one or a more types of particles, these particles optionally varying by the size thereof, by the structure thereof and/or by the chemical nature thereof.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a total dry matter content of particles of film-forming polymer(s) in the form of aqueous dispersion greater than or equal to 5%, preferably greater than or equal to 6%, more preferably greater than or equal to 7% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

These particles can be anionic, cationic or neutral type and can form a mixture of particles of different types.

Of the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention can be made of radical or polycondensate type synthetic polymers, and mixtures thereof. As a general rule, these polymers can be statistical polymers, A-B type block, A-B-A or ABCD multi-block copolymers, or grafted polymers.

The term "radical polymer" denotes a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers in particular ethylenic, with each monomer being capable of being homopolymerized (unlike polycondensates).

Radical film-forming polymers can in particular be acrylic and/or vinyl homopolymers or copolymers.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenic unsaturated monomers that have at least one acid group and/or esters of these acid monomers and/or amides of these acid monomers.

As ethylenic unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group or monomer carrying an acid group, a,b-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids can be used such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. In particular, (meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more specifically (meth)acrylic acid.

Esters of acid monomers are advantageously chosen from among the esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates), particularly alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C1-C20 alkyl, more specifically C1-C8, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

Among alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention can be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate.

Among hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, mention can be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, mention can be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

The esters of (meth)acrylic acid that are in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates.

According to the present invention, the ester alkyl group can either be fluorinated or be perfluorinated, i.e., a portion or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.

As amides of acid monomers, mention can be made for example of (meth)acrylamides, and particularly N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular C2-C12 alkyl. Of the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, mention can be made of N-ethyl acrylamide,

N-t-butyl acrylamide and N-t-octyl acrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or from the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acid monomers and/or their esters and/or their amides, such as those mentioned hereinabove.

As an example of vinyl esters, mention can be made of vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

As styrene monomers, mention can be made of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

The list of monomers given is not exhaustive and it is possible to use any monomer known to a person skilled in the art falling under the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified by a silicone chain).

As a vinyl polymer, silicone acrylic polymers can also be used.

Mention can also be made of polymers resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers, inside and/or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group composed of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and/or alkyds. These polymers are generally referred to as "hybrid polymers".

As a polycondensate type film-forming polymer, mention can be made of anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane- polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea/polyurethanes, silicone polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

The film-forming polyurethane can be, for example, an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic polyurethane, polyurea/urethane, or polyurea copolymer, including alone or in a mixture at least one sequence chosen from:

- a sequence of aliphatic and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic polyester origin, and/or,

- an optionally branched silicone sequence, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and/or

- a sequence including fluorinated groups.

The film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention can also be obtained from optionally branched polyesters, or from alkyds including mobile hydrogens modified by reacting with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example, dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino), additionally including either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.

Of the film-forming polycondensates, mention can also be made of polyesters, polyester amides, fatty-chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxyester resins.

The polyesters can be obtained, continuously, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. The following can be mentioned as examples of such acids: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1 ,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Of these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are particularly chosen. The diol can be chosen from among the aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols. A diol chosen from the following is particularly used: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane can be used.

The polyester amides can be obtained in a manner similar to the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As a diamine, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine can be used. As an amino alcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

According to a specific embodiment of the invention, said at least one film-forming polymer in the dispersed state is chosen from acrylic polymer dispersions, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyester dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions, vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium terpolymer dispersions, hybrid polyurethane/polyacrylic polymer dispersions, core-shell particle dispersions and mixtures thereof.

Different types of aqueous dispersions, particularly commercial, adapted for the preparation of the composition according to the present invention are detailed hereinafter.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous polymer particle dispersion is an aqueous acrylic polymer dispersion.

The acrylic polymer can be a styrene/acrylate copolymer, and particularly a polymer chosen from copolymers obtained from polymerizing at least one styrene monomer and at last one C1-C18 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer.

As a styrene monomer suitable for use in the invention, mention can be made for example of styrene or alpha-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene.

The C1-C18 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer is in particular a C1-C12 alkyl (meth)acrylate and more specifically a

C1-C10 alkyl (meth)acrylate. The C1-C18 alkyl (meth)acrylate can be chosen from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate and/or stearyl (meth)acrylate.

As an acrylic polymer in aqueous dispersion, it is possible to use according to the invention the styrene/acrylate copolymer marketed under the name "Joncryl SCX-8211®" by BASF or "SYNTRAN 5760CG" by Interpolymer, the acrylic polymer marketed under the reference "Acronal® DS - 6250" by BASF or the acrylic copolymer "Joncryl® 95" by BASF. According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of polyester-polyurethane and/or polyether- polyurethane, in particular anionic, particles.

The anionic nature of the polyester-polyurethanes and polyether-polyurethanes used according to the invention is due to the presence in the constituent units thereof of carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid function groups.

The polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane particles used according to the invention are generally marketed in aqueous dispersion form.

The particle content of said dispersions currently available on the market, ranges from about 20% to about 60% by weight with respect to the total weight of the dispersion.

Of the anionic polyester-polyurethane dispersions suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention, mention can be made in particular of that marketed under the name "Avalure UR 405®" by NOVEON or "Baycusan C1004" by BAYER MATERIAL SCIENCE.

Of the anionic polyether-polyurethane particle dispersions suitable for use according to the invention, mention can be made in particular of those marketed under the name "Avalure UR 450®" by NOVEON, and under the name "Neorez R 970®" by DSM.

According to a specific embodiment of the invention, a mixture of commercial dispersions composed of anionic polyester-polyurethane particles as defined above and anionic polyether-polyurethane particles also defined above can be used.

For example, a mixture composed of the dispersion marketed under the name "Sancure 861®" or a mixture of that marketed under the name "Avalure UR 405®" and that marketed under the name "Avalure UR 450®" can be used, these dispersions being marketed by NOVEON.

As aqueous film-forming polymer dispersions, the following can be used:

- acrylic dispersions sold under the names "Acronal DS-6250®" by BASF, "Neocryl A-45®", "Neocryl XK-90®", "Neocryl A-1070®", "Neocryl A-1090®", "Neocryl BT-62®", "Neocryl A-1079®" and "Neocryl A-523®" by DSM, "Joncryl 95®", "Joncryl 8211®" by BASF, "Daitosol 5000 AD®" or "Daitosol 5000 SJ®" by DAITO KASEY KOGYO; "Syntran 5760 CG®" by Interpolymer,

- aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names "Neorez R-981®" and "Neorez R-974®" by DSM, "Avalure UR-405®", "Avalure UR-410®", "Avalure UR-425®", "Avalure UR-450®", "Sancure 875®", "Avalure UR 445®", "Avalure UR 450®" by NOVEON, "Impranil 85®" by BAYER, "Baycusan C1004®" by BAYER MATERIAL SCIENCE, - sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name "Eastman AQ®" by EASTMAN CHEMICAL PRODUCTS,

- vinyl dispersions such as "Mexomer PAM », aqueous polyvinyl acetate dispersions such as "Vinybran®" from Nisshin Chemical or those marketed by UNION CARBIDE, aqueous vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer dispersions such as "Styleze W ®" from ISP,

- aqueous hybrid polyurethane/polyacrylic polymers such as those marketed under the references "Hybridur®" by AIR PRODUCTS or "Duromer®" from NATIONAL STARCH,

- core-shell type particle dispersions such as those marketed by ARKEMA under the reference "Kynar ®" (core: fluorinated-shell: acrylic) or those described in US 5 188 899 (core: silica - shell: silicone) and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of particles chosen from aqueous dispersions of acrylic film-forming polymer(s) and derivatives, in particular styrene-acrylic and derivatives, and aqueous dispersions of polyurethane polymer(s), in particular polyester-polyurethane, and derivatives thereof, and mixture(s) thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of acrylic particles, particularly that sold under the name "Syntran 5760 CG®" by Interpolymer of which the INCI name is STYRENE/ACRYLATES/AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (and) SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (and) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL.

Water-soluble film -forming polymer

The compositions according to the present invention can comprise at least one water- soluble film-forming polymer.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a total water-soluble film-forming polymer content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight and more preferably from 0.4 to 4% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

As examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers, mention can be made of: - proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat, soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins;

- - cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and quaternized cellulose derivatives;

- acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates;

- vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, methylvinyl ether and malic anhydride, vinyl acetate and crotonic acid copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers; vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymers; polyvinyl alcohol;

- anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitin or chitosan polymers;

- gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, acacia gum;

- alginates and carrageenans;

- glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;

- deoxyribonucleic acid;

- mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfates;

- and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a cellulose polymer, particularly hydroxyethylcellulose particularly the product named CELLOSIZE QP 4400 H marketed by Amerchol (Dow Chemicals).

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise an aqueous acrylic polymer dispersion particularly the dispersion Syntran 5760 ^® marketed by Interpolymer and cellulose polymers, particularly hydroxyethylcellulose particularly the product named CELLOSIZE QP 4400 H marketed by Amerchol (Dow Chemicals).

Wax

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one wax.

The term "wax" refers to a lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), deformable or not, having a reversible solid/liquid change of state and a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C that can range up to 120°C. In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and particularly greater than or equal to 55°C. The term "lipophilic compound" compound means a compound that has an acid index and a hydroxyl index less than 150 mg KOH/g.

According to the invention, the melting point is equivalent to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, and is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from - 20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature equivalent to the top point of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

The waxes may be hydrocarbon, silicone and/or fluorinated and be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.

Hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Japan wax, Berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax can be in particular used as wax.

According to an embodiment, a hydrocarbon wax will be used chosen from beeswax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof.

Mention can also be made of waxes obtained by means of the catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having C8-C32 linear or branched fat chains.

Of these, particular mention can be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethylol-1 ,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by HETERENE, di-(trimethylol-1 ,1 ,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by HETERENE.

The wax used can also be obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57" or waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol sold under the name "PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64 and 22L73", by SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in the application FR-A- 2792190.

A silicone wax, particularly sticky, such as a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, can also be used, in particular a C20-C40 12-alkyl-(12’- hydroxystearyloxy)stearate, or a mixture of these compounds. Such a sticky wax is particularly sold under the names "KESTER WAX K 82 P" and "KESTER WAX K 80 P" by KOSTER KEUNEN.

Mention can finally be made of microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by means of Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and the esters thereof; silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes.

The wax can be present at a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 2% to 20%, and even more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free from wax. "Substantially free" means that the composition comprises less than 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise wax.

Filler

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one filler.

The filler can be inorganic or organic. The filler can be of lamellar or non-lamellar shape.

The filler is preferably chosen from silicone particles, polyamide particles, acrylic (co)polymer particles, polyurethane particles, talcs and mixtures thereof.

The silicone particles can be chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane particles, organopolysiloxane elastomer particles coated with silicone resin and organosilicone particles. As a polymethylsilsesquioxane particle, that marketed under the name TOSPEARL by Momentive Performance Materials, and particularly under the reference Tospearl 145 A, can be used.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles coated with a silicone resin used according to the invention are particularly described in the applications JP-A 61-194009, EP-A 242219, EP-A 295886 and EP-A 765656. Such organopolysiloxane elastomer particles coated with silicone resin are particularly sold under the names KSP 100, KSP 101, KSP 102, KSP 103, KSP 104 and KSP 105 by Shin Etsu and have the INCI name "Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer". Advantageously, the crosslinked elastomer organopolysiloxane particle coated with silsesquioxane resin used in the compositions according to the invention corresponds to the INCI name "VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER" and is particular sold under the reference "KSP-100" by Shin Etsu.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the elastomer organopolysiloxanes in spherical particle form can be hybrid silicone particles functionalized by fluoroalkyl groups, particularly those sold under the name "KSP-200" by Shin Etsu; and, advantageously, hybrid silicone particles functionalized by phenyl groups, particularly sold under the name "KSP-300" by Shin Etsu. The hybrid silicone particles functionalized by phenyl groups according to a particularly preferred of the invention correspond to the INCI name "DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE/SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER" and are particularly sold under the reference "KSP-300" by Shin Etsu.

According to another preferential embodiment of the invention, the crosslinked elastomer organopolysiloxane particle coated with silicone resin is hydrophilic-treated by associating with at least one quaternary ammonium polymer, preferably chosen from polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-7, preferably polyquaternium-7.

Polyquaternium-6 is a poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride).

Polyquaternium-7 is a copolymer of acrylamide and diallyldimethylammonium chloride.

Advantageously according to an embodiment of the invention, the crosslinked elastomer organopolysiloxane particle coated with hydrophilic-treated silicone resin, used according to the invention, corresponds to the INCI name "VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER TREATED WITH PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE, POLYQUATERNIUM-7 AND METHYLSILANOL TRI-PEG- 8 GLYCERYL COCOATE" and particularly it is sold under the reference "MW-SRP-100" by Miyoshi Kasei. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the silicone particles are chosen from organopolysiloxane elastomer particles coated with a silicone resin. Even more preferably, the silicone particles of the composition are chosen from "VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER" particularly sold under the reference "KSP-100" by Shin Etsu, "DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE/SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER" sold under the reference "KSP-300" by Shin Etsu and "VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER TREATED WITH PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE, POLYQUATERNIUM-7 AND METHYLSILANOL TRI-PEG-8 GLYCERYL COCOATE" particularly it is sold under the reference "MW-SRP-100" by Miyoshi Kasei, and mixtures thereof.

The silicone particle(s) are preferably present at a total content greater than or equal to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably at a total content greater than or equal to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably at a total content greater than or equal to 11 % by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular at a total content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The solid particles according to the invention can be chosen from one or more polyamide particles, particularly Nylon®, in particular "NYLON-12".

The polyamide particles according to the invention have a mean diameter by volume (D[0.5]) ranging from 0.5 to 100 pm, preferably between 2 and 50 pm and more preferably between 5 and 30 pm.

Of the fillers suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention, mention can be made of polyamide particles such as the product ORGASOL® 2002 EXS NAT COS marketed by ARKEMA.

These polyamide particles can be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent. The hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids and salts thereof; lecithin; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine. The term alkyl mentioned in the above-mentioned compounds particularly denotes an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

The preferential polyamide particles according to the invention are those corresponding to the INCI name "NYLON-12".

The polyamide particles according to the invention are present preferably at a total content greater than or equal to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably at a total content greater than or equal to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably at a total content greater than or equal to 12% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular at a total content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The polyurethane particle is advantageously a hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer particle. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains a polyurethane particle which is not film-forming, i.e., which does not form a continuous film when it is deposited on a substrate such as skin. The (poly)urethane particles according to the invention are present at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably at a content greater than or equal to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably at a content greater than or equal to 12% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular at a content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The composition can also comprise ingredients that are commonly used in cosmetics such as surfactants, fibers, cosmetic active agents and mixtures thereof.

As cosmetic active agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention can be made of antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers and vitamins.

Obviously, those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives, and/or the quantity thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition. In particular, the composition comprises at least one surfactant. This surfactant can be chosen from non-ionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant. Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant has an HLB at 25°C less than 8. The HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", volume 22, p. 333-432, 3 ^rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions of surfactants, in particular on p. 347-377 of this reference.

Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant of HLB at 25°C less than 8 is chosen from among polyoxyalkylenated alcohols, preferably oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene alcohols having 1 to 15 ethylene glycol and/or propylene glycol units, preferably C8-24 and particularly Ci ₆ - 24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 2 oxyethylene units (INCI name: steareth-2) such as Uniqema’s Brij 72.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one surfactant at a content ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight.

Dry extract

In terms of this invention, the term "dry extract content" means the total content of non-volatile matter.

The quantity of dry extract (abbreviated as DE) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a commercial halogen desiccator "HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73" from Mettler TOLEDO. The measurement is taken based on the loss of weight of a sample dried by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of residual material once the water and volatile materials have evaporated. This technique is described perfectly in the documentation of the device supplied by METTLER TOLEDO.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

About 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, is spread over a metal cup which is inserted into the halogen desiccator mentioned hereinabove. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 120°C for 60 minutes. The Wet Mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the Dry Mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.

The experimental error linked to the measurement is about plus or minus 2%.

The Dry Extract content is calculated as follows:

[Math 1]

Teneur en Extrait Sec (exprime en % en poids) = 100 x (Masse Seche l Masse Humide)

According to the present invention, the dry extract of the composition is greater than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 55% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 57% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the dry extract of the composition according to the invention is between 55 and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition, more preferably between 57 and 68% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises:

- at least one physiologically acceptable medium, which preferably comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase or at least one continuous oily phase, more preferably at least one continuous aqueous phase,

- 8 to 35% by weight with respect to the weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 12 to 30% by weight, more preferably 15 to 25% by weight, of dyestuffs chosen from pigments, and preferably from metal oxides, and preferably from iron oxides,

- 5% to 25% by weight, preferably 6% to 20% by weight, preferably 7% to 18% by weight of dry matter with respect to the total weight of the composition, of an aqueous dispersion of particles chosen from aqueous dispersions of acrylic, in particular styrene-acrylic, film-forming polymer(s), aqueous dispersions of polyurethane polymer(s), in particular of polyester-polyurethane and mixtures thereof,

- at least one cellulose polymer, particularly hydroxyethylcellulose,

- at least one filler chosen from silicone particles, polyamide particles, acrylic (co)polymer particles, polyurethane particles, talcs and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane particles, organopolysiloxane elastomer particles coated with silicone resin and organosilicone particles, - from 0.01 to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight of at least one surfactant, preferably non-ionic having an HLB at 25°C less than 8, preferably chosen from (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, preferably oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated alcohols having 1 to 15 ethylene glycol and/or propylene glycol units, preferably C8-24 and particularly C16-24 ethoxylated fatty alcohols, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 2 oxyethylene units (INCI name: steareth-2), and

- at least one polymeric dispersing agent which comprises at least one repeat unit (Ti) and at least one repeat unit (T ₂ ), said repeat units having the following respective formulas:

[Chem 2] wherein: p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150;

X is H or an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, and is particularly Na or K; or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium;

R _a represents a linear alkyl group comprising 1 to 4, and preferably 1 or 2, carbon atoms, preferably a methyl;

R and R’ are identical and each represent a linear alkyl group comprising 1 to 5, and preferably 1 or 2, carbon atoms, preferably a methyl; and

A complies with the following formula (II) or (III):

[Chem 3] wherein:

- Ai represents a radical -CH ₂ CH ₂ 0-;

- A ₂ represents a radical -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -0-; - j and k, identical or different, represent independently of one another, an integer ranging from 0 to 50, preferably from 0 to 25; on the condition that the sum j + k is greater than or equal to 1 , and preferably greater than or equal to 50, said composition being substantially free from wax, preferably not comprising wax.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has an intrinsic coating capacity (ICC) greater than 1 mg, preferably greater than 2 mg, preferably greater than 3 mg, preferably greater than 4 mg, after a single passage on said keratin materials.

Applicator according to the invention

An applicator perfectly adapted for applying the composition for coating and/or treating keratin materials according to the invention will now be described, with reference to figure 1 :

[Fig 1] figure 1 is a schematic side view of an applicator according to an embodiment example of the invention.

An example of an applicator 10 according to the invention is illustrated in figure 1.

The applicator 10 comprises a gripping member 12 and an application member 14 borne by the gripping member 12.

The gripping member 12 is capable of being gripped by a user with a view to applying the coating and/or treatment composition according to the invention on keratin materials.

The gripping member 12 extends along a longitudinal axis A up to a distal end 16.

The gripping member 12 comprises for example an elongated rod 18 along the longitudinal axis A.

The rod 18 has for example a constant diameter along the longitudinal axis A, particularly between 2 mm and 6 mm.

The application member 14 comprises a helical spring 24 and, for example, a support body 20 of the helical spring 24.

The application member 14 extends between a proximal end 26 attached to the gripping member 12 and an opposite free end 28.

The helical spring 24 is particularly attached to the rod 18 of the gripping member 12, by means of the support body 20.

The support body 20 is thus disposed at the proximal end 26 of the gripping member 12 The support body 20 is longitudinally inserted between the application member 14 and the rod 18.

The support body 20 comprises for example a disk 22.

Preferably, the disk 22 of the support body 20 has a circular shaped outer peripheral contour having a predetermined peripheral shape.

The predetermined peripheral shape is here circular. Alternatively, the predetermined peripheral shape has another shape, such as any shape, a quadrilateral shape, a polygonal shape, a parallelogram shape, a square shape, a rectangular shape, an oval shape, or an oblong shape.

The peripheral shape has a greater dimension preferably between 3 mm and 8 mm, preferably between 4 mm and 6 mm. Ideally, the rod 18, the disk 22 of the support body 20 and the spring 24 have the same diameter for squeezing by boring. In the example illustrated where the peripheral shape is circular, said greater dimension corresponds to the diameter.

Furthermore, the disk 22 of the support body 20 has for example a predetermined thickness, measured along the longitudinal axis A, which is constant.

The helical spring 24 is capable of being impregnated longitudinally by the coating and/or treatment composition according to the invention.

The helical spring 24 is integral with the distal end 16 of the gripping member 12.

The helical spring 24 is for example formed by the helical winding of a wire.

The helical spring 24 preferably has a stiffness between 0.5 N/mm and 10 N/mm.

The helical spring 24 is for example made of stainless steel.

The helical spring 24 comprises a series of turns 30.

A turn 30 is particularly defined here as an open loop of the wire forming the spring.

The helical spring 24 preferably comprises a number of turns 30 between 10 and 35, advantageously between 15 and 25.

As a general rule, the spacing P between two successive turns 30 is between 0.30 mm and 1 .90 mm.

The spacing P between two successive turns 30 is preferably constant, between the proximal end 26 and the free end 28.

The helical spring 24 has a constant outer diameter D, between the proximal end 26 and the free end 28.

The outer diameter D of the helical spring 24 corresponds in particular to an outer diameter of the turns 30.

As a general rule, the outer diameter D of the helical spring 24 is between 20 mm and 60 mm, preferably between 35 mm and 55 mm. In the example illustrated in figure 1 , the predetermined outer diameter of the disk 22 of the support body 20 is substantially equal to the outer diameter D of the helical spring 24.

The thickness e of the helical spring 24 is between 0.25 mm and 1 .25 mm, preferably between 0.4mm and 1.1 mm.

The thickness e of the helical spring 24 is here defined as the diameter of the wire forming the helical spring 24.

The thickness e of the helical spring 24 is constant, between the proximal end 26 and the free end 28.

In the example illustrated in figure 1 , the predetermined thickness of the disk 22 of the support body 20 is less than or equal to the thickness e of the helical spring 24.

In the embodiment illustrated in figure 1 , the helical spring 24 is straight.

The helical spring 24 then has a directrix curve C around which the turns 30 are wound which is straight. The turns 30 are in particular centered on said directrix curve C.

The directrix curve C is here aligned with the longitudinal axis A.

In particular, the helical spring 24 is entirely contained in a cylindrical envelope of revolution having a diameter corresponding to the outer diameter D of the helical spring 24.

In a first preferred embodiment, the outer diameter D of the spring is between 3.5 mm and 4.4 mm, the spacing P between the turns 30 is between 0.30 mm and 0.70 mm and the thickness e is between 0.9 mm and 1.1 mm.

In a second preferred embodiment, the outer diameter D of the spring is between 4.5 mm and 5.4 mm, the spacing P between the turns 30 is between 1 .50 mm and 1 .90 mm and the thickness e is between 0.4 mm and 0.6 mm.

In a non-illustrated alternative embodiment of the embodiments described, the helical spring 24 is curved.

The helical spring 24 then has a directrix curve C around which the turns 30 are wound having a predetermined radius of curvature. The turns 30 are in particular centered on said directrix curve C.

The directrix curve C in particular only has a single radius of curvature.

The radius of curvature is defined in a plane passing through the longitudinal axis.

The radius of curvature is here non-infinite.

The radius of curvature is preferably between 5.0 cm and 9.0 cm.

Such a radius of curvature makes it possible to grip the entire strip of keratin fibers. In addition, this enables intuitive positioning of the helical spring 24 with respect to the curvature of the eyelid. According to other advantageous aspects of the invention, the applicator may include one or more of the following features, considered alone or according to all technically possible combinations:

- the helical spring 24 has no central core;

- the helical spring 24 has a constant inner diameter and defines an inner volume, the inner volume being delimited circumferentially by a cylindrical casing of revolution having a diameter corresponding to the inner diameter of the helical spring 24 ;

- said interior volume is empty;

- when the helical spring 24 is immersed in a reservoir of mascara, the mascara is capable of completely filling said interior volume;

- the diameter of the wire forming the helical spring 24 is defined between the inner diameter and the outer diameter D of the helical spring 24;

- the wire forming the helical spring 24 has a free end arranged distally; and/or

- said free end of the wire defines the free end 28 of the application member 14.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic kit for coating and/or treating keratin materials, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising:

(i) a composition for coating and/or treating keratin materials, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, having an intrinsic coating capacity (ICC) greater than 1 mg, preferably greater than 2 mg, preferably greater than 3 mg, preferably greater than 4 mg, after a single passage on said keratin materials, and

(ii) an applicator 10 comprising a gripping member 12 and an application member 14 borne by the gripping member 12, the application member 14 comprising a helical spring 24.

Preferably, the composition (i) and/or the applicator (ii) is(are) as described above.

The intrinsic coating capacity (ICC) is measured using the following method:

A test piece ("Monolash test piece") is used, comprising 4 Tynex (Dupont) nylon fibers, 100pm in diameter, 13mm long, spaced apart by 5mm and held between 2 metal plates of 3mm thickness which are attached to one another by a 3M double-sided adhesive.

An application member comprising a rod is used, the rod having a diameter 5 mm and comprising four peripheral circular grooves of 1 .5 mm in depth (hereinafter "template applicator"). The grooves are spaced apart evenly such that a single fiber is received per groove of the application member during application.

A Fanuc 6-axis robotized system having the commercial reference LR Mate 200iC gripping the application member is furthermore used. A single application is performed with the template applicator per test piece, and each application is performed at a speed of 40 mm/s.

Before application, the mass m ₀ of each Monolash test piece is measured.

After the single application, the mass m _f of each Monolash test piece is measured. The intrinsic coating capacity (ICC) value is determined based on the relation: [Math 2]

(mf — mO)

CEI = - — - - - n where m ₀ is the mass of the Monolash test piece before application, rri _f is the mass of the Monolash test piece after application, and n is the number of coated fiber(s) of the test piece (in this case n=4).

The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

Unless specified otherwise, the ingredient percentages are given by weight with respect to the total composition weight (% w/w).

Examples

1/ Applicators and formulas

Two applicators and two formulas for illustrating the invention are chosen:

• Applicator A according to said first preferred embodiment of the invention, made of stainless steel, the geometric characteristics of which are: o Number of turns: 16 o Spacing between turns: 0.48 mm o Outer spring diameter: 40 mm o Wire diameter: 1 mm o The helical spring has a straight directrix curve

• Applicator A according to said second preferred embodiment of the invention, made of stainless steel, the geometric characteristics of which are: o Number of turns: 18 o Spacing between turns: 1.72 mm o Outer spring diameter: 50 mm o Wire diameter: 0.5 mm o The helical spring has a straight directrix curve · Comparative formula C (with low Intrinsic Coating Capacity or ICC) having the following composition:

The Intrinsic Coating Capacity of a mascara formula characterizes the loading potential/coating potential thereof.

Formula C [Table 11

• Formula D according to the invention (with high ICC) having the following composition: Formula D [Table 2]

21 Protocols

Makeup of test pieces bv hand

The manual application action is composed of a single translation movement, from the base to the end of the fibers.

The quantity of formula applied is determined by weighing the test piece before and after makeup application.

"Monolash" test pieces used for determining the coating potential and the capacity of an applicator to express this potential

The method for characterizing the coating potential of a formula is based on the use of individual fibers, having similar geometric and mechanical properties to those of eyelashes, held on a test piece and on which makeup is applied by means of a single pass in an infinite reserve of formula.

The application is performed using the template applicator as described in the description, composed of grooves (one groove per fiber) filled with formula.

Typically, the test piece used is a Monolash test piece as described above.

To check the capacity of an applicator to express the coating potential of a mascara, the mascara is applied by hand on a Monolash test piece with this applicator and the quantity applied is compared to that obtained with the template applicator. If it is substantially equal, then the applicator can be considered as an "infinite reserve" applicator. If it is less, then the applicator can be considered as a "restrictive" applicator.

3/ Results of makeup of "Monolash" test pieces bv hand with formulas C or D

A manual application of comparative formula C according to the above protocol, with the template applicator comprising 4 grooves (i.e., the applicator comprises a rod of diameter 5 mm and comprises 4 peripheral circular grooves of depth 1.5mm, evenly spaced apart), on a Monolash test piece, in two independent experiments, makes it possible to apply 0.19mg and 0.24mg respectively.

[Fig 2] Figure 2 shows 2 illustrations of the results obtained.

A manual application of comparative formula C according to the above protocol, with applicator A, on a Monolash test piece, makes it possible to apply on average: 0.15 mg.

A manual application of comparative formula C according to the above protocol, with applicator B, on a Monolash test piece, makes it possible to apply on average: 0.24 mg.

Applicator A therefore restricts formula C, while applicator B can be considered as an "infinite reserve".

A manual application of comparative formula D according to the invention according to the above protocol, with the template applicator comprising 4 grooves (i.e., the applicator comprises a rod of diameter 5 mm and comprises 4 peripheral circular grooves of depth 1 5mm, evenly spaced apart), on a Monolash test piece, in three independent experiments, makes it possible to apply 5.2mg, 3.31 mg or 4.25mg respectively.

[Fig 3] Figure 3 shows 3 illustrations of the results obtained.

A manual application of comparative formula D according to the invention according to the above protocol, with applicator A, on a Monolash test piece, makes it possible to apply on average: 2.0 mg.

A manual application of comparative formula D according to the invention according to the above protocol, with applicator B, on a Monolash test piece, makes it possible to apply on average: 4.54 mg.

Applicator A therefore restricts formula D, while applicator B can be considered as an "infinite reserve".

4/ Results of makeup of hair test pieces bv hand with formulas C or D For this series of experiments, false eyelash test pieces ("Eprouvette Avec Segment de Cil 30 Nceuds Support 30x30mm PQ de 486" from SP Equation) are used.

The four configurations studied are as follows:

1. Applicator A + Comparative formula C applied by hand according to the above protocol:

The average applied is 11 2mg. In this case, the applicator and the formula result in a low amount of applied formula.

[Fig 4] Figure 4 shows 4 illustrations of the results obtained.

2. Applicator A + Formula D according to the invention:

The average applied is 42.7mg. In this case, the applicator controls and limits the amount of mascara formula applied.

[Fig 5] Figure 5 shows 3 illustrations of the results obtained.

3. Applicator B + Comparative formula C applied by hand according to the above protocol:

The average applied is 28.7mg. In this case, the coating potential of the formula controls the amount of mascara formula applied.

[Fig 6] Figure 6 shows 4 illustrations of the results obtained.

4. Applicator B + Formula D according to the invention applied by hand according to the above protocol:

The average applied is 197.9mg. In this case, the applicator allows the formula to express the full coating potential thereof.

[Fig 7] Figure 7 shows 3 illustrations of the results obtained.

The amounts applied can then be ranked in this order:

Configuration 1 £ Configuration 3 £ Configuration 2 < Configuration 4