The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin or the lips. Preferably, the invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, which has optimized sensory and cosmetic qualities.

W/O emulsions are useful in cosmetics especially for their ability to form films at the surface of the skin which efficiently prevent transepidermal water loss and give good resistance to contamination with microorganisms.

However, the use of W/O emulsions, especially for formulating cosmetic products intended for caring for and/or making up the skin or the lips, remains limited since, firstly, they are generally difficult to use and, secondly, their sensory nature is often less appreciated by consumers.

The difficulties in using emulsions of this type are essentially difficulties in obtaining stable compositions especially on account of interactions, or even incompatibilities, between certain starting materials. In addition, when solid colorants are added to such compositions, in particular nacres or pigments, they can be destabilized.

As regards the sensory nature of W/O emulsions, it is often reflected by a greasy, shiny or even tacky finish which may be offputting.

There is thus still a need to provide new formulations of W/O emulsion type having satisfactory cosmetic properties and satisfactory stability even in the presence of solid colorants, such as pigments and nacres.

Thus, a first subject of the invention is represented by a composition for making up and/or caring for human keratin materials, such as the skin and/or the lips, preferably in the form of a water- in- oil emulsion comprising:

- at least 30% by weight of water relative to the weight of the composition;

- at least one nonvolatile oil;

- at least one surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type having the following structure:

R(0)(G) _x (I)

in which the radical R is a linear or branched C14-C24, preferably C16-C24, and

advantageously C18-C24, alkyl radical;

G represents a reduced sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glucose, fructose, xylose or galactose and preferably xylose;

x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 4;

- at least one thickening hydrophilic polymer;

- at least one nacre.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid (also known as HEPES, having the INCI name hydroxy ethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid). A subject of the invention is also a process for making up and/or caring for human keratin materials, in particular the skin or the lips, in which the composition described above is applied.

The composition according to the invention has good properties in terms of stability, and a particularly advantageous sensory nature, which is characterized in particular by a creamy texture, and which spreads easily, without running outside the areas to be made up, or migrating.

A uniform and comfortable deposit is also obtained. Indeed, the deposit is not very tacky and provides a very surprising freshness effect, despite the oily continuous phase of the emulsion.

The composition according to the invention is less fatty and less oily than the conventional W/O emulsions.

The compositions obtained are stable and homogeneous despite the presence of nacres in the compositions and despite a high content of internal aqueous phase. In particular, no destabilization of the compositions, in particular no drop in viscosity, nor any phase separation, no appearance of crystals and no degradation of the microscopic appearance of the emulsion are observed.

It has also been noted, entirely surprisingly, that the compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain a deposit that gives an unusual metallized effect; this effect being heightened when the composition comprises both nacres and pigments.

In addition, this composition may equally be applied to the skin, in particular to the cheeks, to the eyelids, and also to the lips, which represents another advantage of the present invention.

However, other characteristics of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously in a liquid-to-cream form.

The composition has more particularly a viscosity at 25°C of between 0.2 and 9 Pa.s, more particularly between 0.2 and 6 Pa.s and preferably between 0.5 and 4 Pa.s.

Protocol for measuring the viscosity:

The viscosity measurement is generally performed at 25°C, using a Rheomat RM 100 viscometer equipped with a no. 2, 3 or 4 spindle, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition, at a shear rate of 200 revolutions/min (rpm).

The emulsion according to the invention shows good stability over time.

The term“stable emulsion” is generally intended to mean an emulsion which shows little, even no, change in viscosity (for example no drop in viscosity) or else no appearance of phase separation (for example supernatant or drops) after at least 5, preferably at least 7, temperature cycles from -20 to +20°C (each cycle lasts 24 hours, stationary phase of 6 hours, cylindrical glass pill bottle of 30 ml - diameter 3 cm) or during storage for at least one month or even two months at a temperature of 4°C, of 45°C and at ambient temperature.

COSMETIC COMPOSITION

The composition according to the invention is thus a water-in-oil emulsion, referred to as an inverse emulsion.

An inverse emulsion is generally constituted of a fatty phase (containing liquid fatty substances, optionally pasty compounds, optionally waxes and mixtures thereof), in this case the continuous phase, and of an aqueous liquid phase, in this case the dispersed phase.

Furthermore, an emulsion according to the present invention requires the presence of a surfactant to ensure its stability over time.

ALKYLPOLYGLYCOSIDE

As indicated above, the composition comprises at least one alkylpolyglycoside, having the following structure:

R(0)(G) _x (I)

in which the radical R is a linear or branched C14-C24, preferably C16-C24, and further C18-C24, alkyl radical;

G represents a reduced sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and

x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 4.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "alkylpolyglycoside” is intended to mean an alkylmonosaccharide (degree of polymerization 1) or an alkylpolysaccharide (degree of polymerization greater than 1). In the context of the present invention, the alkylpolyglycosides may be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkylpolyglycosides.

In a preferred embodiment, G may be chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose or starch, and more preferentially denotes glucose, fructose, xylose or galactose.

It should also be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkylpolyglycoside may be in a or b isomer form, in L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type.

It is, of course, possible to use mixtures of alkylpolysaccharides, which may differ from one another in the nature of the borne alkyl unit and/or the nature of the bearing polysaccharide chain.

In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside is an alkylpolyglucoside, in which R more particularly represents an oleyl radical (unsaturated Cis radical) or isostearyl radical (saturated Cis radical), G denotes glucose, x is a value ranging from 1 to 2, especially isostearyl glucoside or oleyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside is an alkylpolyxyloside, in which R more particularly represents an octyldodecyl radical, G denotes xylose and x is equal to 1 , of formula:

Advantageously, the alkylpolyglycoside is present in a content ranging from 0.03% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.8% by weight and even more preferentially of between 0.1% and 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

According to one particular mode of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside may be used as a mixture with a coemulsifier, more especially with at least one fatty alcohol, and especially a fatty alcohol comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably a fatty alcohol bearing the same alkyl chain as that of the alkylpolyglycoside.

In one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture formed by the surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type and the fatty alcohol is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, particularly from 0.2% to 7% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.4% to 4% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the alkylpolyglycoside is chosen from compounds of which the HLB (hydrophilic-lipohilic balance) is less than or equal to 7. The HLB values are defined within the meaning of Griffin (J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256).

In one particular embodiment, when the alkylpolyglycoside is isostearyl glucoside, it is advantageously mixed with isostearyl alcohol. Such a mixture is sold especially under the name Montanov WO 18 by the company SEPPIC.

In another embodiment, when the alkylpolyglycoside is oleyl glucoside, it is advantageously mixed with oleyl alcohol, optionally in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in WO 92/06778.

In another embodiment of the invention, when the alkylpolyglycoside is octyldodecyl xyloside, it is advantageously mixed with octyldodecanol.

Thus, advantageously, the alkylpolyglycoside of formula (I) is such that the radical R is a linear or branched C18-C22 alkyl radical, preferably an octyldodecyl radical; and G represents xylose. Thus, in accordance with one preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside is octyldodecyl xyloside and the fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol. Such a mixture is sold especially under the name Fluidanov 20X by the company SEPPIC (constituted of about 20% to 30% of octyldodecyl xyloside and of about 70% to 80% of octyldodecanol). In such an embodiment of the invention, the amount of octyldodecyl xyloside used in the composition according to the invention ranges from 20% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of octyldodecyl xyloside and of octyldodecanol.

Similarly, the amount of octyldodecanol used in the composition according to the invention ranges from 70% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of octyldodecyl xyloside and of octyldodecanol.

ADDITIONAL SURFACTANT

In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional surfactant, preferably chosen from the group formed by polyethoxylated monoesters and diesters of hydroxy acids, (C2-C3) (poly)alkoxylated or (poly)glycerolated esters; optionally (C2- C3) (poly)alkoxylated sugar esters and also polyol ethers, for example polyoxyethylenated or non- polyoxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 monoethers or polyethers of glycerol; compounds comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 group; the number of alkoxylated, more particularly ethoxylated or propoxylated, or else glycerolated, groups being such that the HLB value of the additional surfactant is less than 7. As a guide, the number thereof is between 1 and 40.

Preferably, the additional surfactant is chosen from polyethoxylated polyhydroxystearate diesters.

In one particular embodiment, the additional surfactant used is the polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate sold by the company Croda under the name Arlacel P135 or the product of which the INCI name is PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate sold by the company Croda under the name Cithrol DPHS-SO (MV).

It should be noted that there is a commercial product comprising at the same time octyldodecyl xyloside, octyldodecanol and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate (Easynov from SEPPIC).

The content of additional surfactant advantageously represents from 0.06% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3.6% by weight and even more particularly from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type according to the invention and the additional surfactant is at most approximately 1/2.

In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the ratio between the mixture of the alkylpolyglycoside according to the invention with a fatty alcohol, and especially a fatty alcohol bearing the same fatty chain as that of the alkylpolyglycoside, preferably the octyldodecyl xyloside/ octyldodecanol mixture, and the additional surfactant is at least about 2/1.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises no silicone surfactant, more particularly which is nonionic, in particular of the (C2-C3) polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylsiloxane type. NONVOLATILE OIL

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile oil.

More particularly, the nonvolatile oil is chosen from nonvolatile silicone oils, from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils, which may be polar or nonpolar, and also mixtures thereof; and preferably from polar nonvolatile oils, in particular chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, ester oils and plant oils, alone or as mixtures.

The term“oil” is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10" Pa).

The term“hydrocarbon-based oil” is intended to mean an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. The hydrocarbon-based oil is thus distinct from a silicone oil and a fluorinated oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term“silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.

The term“nonvolatile” denotes oils of which the vapor pressure is less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa (measured according to the standard OCDE 104 of 07/27/95).

Nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar, nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil is free of heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.

In the present case, the polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprises at least one oxygen atom.

In particular, this polar, nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprises at least one alcohol function (it is then an "alcohol oil") or at least one ester function (it is then an "ester oil").

The ester oils that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may in particular be hydroxylated.

Thus, the composition comprises one or more polar, nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular chosen from:

- C10-C76 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;

More particularly, the C10-C26 alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, and branched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms.

As examples of fatty alcohols that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin or alternatively of natural origin, for instance alcohols derived from plant materials (coconut kernel, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal materials (tallow, etc.).

Needless to say, other long-chain alcohols may also be used, for instance ether alcohols or alternatively "Guerbet" alcohols.

Finally, use may also be made of certain fractions of alcohols of varying length of natural origin, for instance coconut (C ₁₂ to Cie) or tallow (Cie to Cis) or compounds of diol or cholesterol type.

As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may preferably be used, mention may be made especially of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol.

- optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a C?-Cs monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C?-Cs alcohol

ln particular:

* optionally hydroxylated monoesters of a C ₂ -C ₈ carboxylic acid and of a C ₂ -C ₈ alcohol,

* optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C ₂ -C ₈ dicarboxylic acid and of a C ₂ -C ₈ alcohol, such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate,

* optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C ₂ -C ₈ tricarboxylic acid and of a C ₂ -C ₈ alcohol, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate or tributyl citrate.

- esters of a C ₂ -C8 polyol and of one or more C ₂ -C8 carboxylic acids, such as glycol diesters of monoacids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol triesters of monoacids, such as triacetin.

- ester oils, in particular having between 17 and 70 carbon atoms.

Examples that may be mentioned include monoesters, diesters or triesters.

The ester oils may be hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated.

The nonvolatile ester oil may for example be chosen from:

* monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular the monoesters of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is in particular branched, containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Ri + R ₂ > 17, for instance Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate or 2- octyldodecyl myristate.

Preferably, they are esters of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is in particular branched, containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, Ri and R2 being such that Ri + R ₂ > 17.

Even more particularly, the ester comprises between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total.

Preferred monoesters that may be mentioned include isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl erucate and/or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate;

* monoesters of a fatty acid, in particular of 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid, and of diols, for instance propylene glycol monoisostearate;

* diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total and in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. Use may be made especially of diesters of a dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, preferably such as diisostearyl malate, or glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference Dermol DGDIS by the company Alzo);

* hydroxylated monoesters and diesters, preferably with a total carbon number ranging from 18 to 70, for instance polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or glyceryl stearate;

* triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as triesters of a tricarboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;

* tetraesters, in particular with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of a monocarboxylic acid, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tris(2- decyl)tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2- decyl)tetradecanoate;

* polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1 ,4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or else copolymers of polyols and of dimer diacids, and esters thereof, such as Hailucent ISDA;

* esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of diol dimer and of faty acid and esters of diol dimer and of dicarboxylic acid dimer, in particular which may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid especially of C to C34, especially of C12 to C22, in particular of Ci ₆ to C20 and more particularly of Cis, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for instance those sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5 ^® and DD-DA7 ^® ;

* polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, which is optionally unsaturated, for instance the succinic acid and isostearic acid castor oil sold under the reference Zenigloss by Zenitech;

* hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (which are liquid at ambient temperature), especially of fatty acids containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil; mention may be made in particular of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for example such as the product sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, and Ci8-36 acid triglycerides such as those sold under the reference Dub TGI 24 by Stearineries Dubois, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, and also unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil and pracaxi oil;

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from C10-C26 monoalcohols, ester oils, and in particular monoesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms in total, diesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms in total, which may be hydroxylated or non- hydroxylated, triesters, in particular containing at least 35 carbon atoms, tetraesters, in particular containing at least 35 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon-based plant oils, and also mixtures thereof.

Nonpolar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils

With regard to nonpolar nonvolatile oils, mention may be most particularly made of liquid paraffin, squalane, isoeicosane, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

Nonvolatile silicone oils

With regard to the nonvolatile silicone oils, mention may for example be made of non- phenylated, nonvolatile silicone oils, for instance polydimethylsiloxanes.

Mention may also be made of phenyl silicone oils, for instance diphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane, or tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, and also mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the nonvolatile silicone oil comprises no C2-C3 oxyalkylene (oxyethylene, oxypropylene) group(s), nor any glycerolated group(s).

In accordance with one particular embodiment of the invention, the nonvolatile oil is chosen from polar nonvolatile oils, in particular chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, ester oils and plant oils, alone or as mixtures. Thus, as previously indicated, the composition comprises at least one C10-C26, preferably C14- C24, alcohol, preferably having the same alkyl chain as that of the alkylpolyglycoside of formula (I).

The content of nonvolatile oils represents more particularly from 4% to 65% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight and even more advantageously from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

VOLATILE OILS

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one volatile oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" denotes oils with in particular a non zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular with a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils.

Among the nonpolar volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may in particular be made, as branched Cx-C , alkanes, such as Cx-Ci ₆ isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), of isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.

Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for instance n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cu) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof, and also ethers containing at most 16 carbon atoms, for instance dicaprylyl ether.

Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Advantageously, if the composition comprises any, the content of volatile oil(s) is between 0.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 5% by weightt, relative to the weight of the composition.

WAXfESf

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one silicone wax, or one hydrocarbon-based wax, which may be polar or nonpolar. The wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point in particular of greater than or equal to 30°C, more particularly greater than 45°C. Advantageously, the melting point is less than or equal to 90°C, more particularly less than or equal to 80°C and preferably less than or equal to 70°C.

The melting point of a solid fatty substance may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q 100 by the company TA Instruments, with the TA Universal Analysis software.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

A sample of about 5 mg of solid fatty substance is placed in a "hermetic aluminum capsule" crucible.

The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise going from 20°C to l20°C, at a heating rate of 2°C/minute up to 80°C, it is left at the l00°C isotherm for 20 minutes and is then cooled from l20°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 2°C/minute, and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise going from 0°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 2°C/minute.

The melting point value of the solid fatty substance is the value at the top of the most endothermic peak observed in the melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

Polar hydrocarbon-based waxes

More particularly, the polar wax is chosen from hydrocarbon-based ester waxes, hydrocarbon- based alcohol waxes, silicone waxes, and also mixtures thereof.

The term "hydrocarbon-based wax" is intended to mean a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

The term "ester wax" is intended to mean, according to the invention, a wax comprising at least one ester function. The ester waxes can in addition be hydroxylated.

According to the invention, the term "alcohol wax" is intended to mean a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. The additional alcohol wax in particular does not comprise an ester function.

The term "silicone wax" is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and especially comprising Si-0 groups.

Ester waxes

Use may especially be made, as ester wax, of:

- ester waxes, such as those chosen from: i) waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and the melting point of which varies from 30°C to l20°C, preferably from 30°C to l00°C. In particular, use may be made, as an ester wax, of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names Kester Wax K 82 P ^® , Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ^® , Kester Wax K 80 P ^® or Kester Wax K82H by Koster Keunen. Use may also be made of mixtures of esters of C _M -C _IS carboxylic acids and of alcohols, such as the products“Cetyl Ester Wax 814” from the company Koster Keunen,“SP Crodamol MS MBAL”, “Crodamol MS PA” from the company Croda,“Miraceti” from the company Laserson.

Use may also be made of a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate), such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by Clariant.

ii) di(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S ^® by Heterene. iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R ³ -(-OCO-R ⁴ -COO-R ⁵ ), in which R ³ and R ⁵ are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R ⁴ represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

iv) waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having in particular linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil or hydrogenated coconut oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64 ^® and 22L73 ^® by Sophim. Such waxes are described in Application FR-A-2 792 190. Mention may be made, as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, of those sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57.

v) waxes of animal or plant origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or sunflower wax, in particular refined sunflower wax.

vi) mention may also be made of natural or synthetic polyalkylenated or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon-based waxes, of animal or plant origin; the number of (C2-C4) oxyalkylenated units can range from 2 to 100, the number of glycerolated units can range from 1 to 20. By way of examples, mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG- 8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated camauba waxes, such as PEG- 12 camauba; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lanolin waxes, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, the Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax/Polygloceryl-3 Esters mixture, polyglycerolated plant waxes, such as mimosa, jojoba, sun flower waxes, and mixtures thereof (Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters). vii) waxes corresponding to the partial or total esters, preferably total esters, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol. The term "total esters" is intended to mean that all the hydroxyl functions of glycerol are esterified. Examples that may be mentioned include trihydroxystearine (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearine (or glyceryl tristearate) and tribehenine (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture. Among the suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and of l2-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, for instance Thixcin R and Thixcin E sold by Elementis Specialties.

viii) and also mixtures thereof.

Alcohol waxes

Alcohol waxes that may be mentioned include alcohols, which are preferably linear and preferably saturated, comprising from 16 to 60 carbon atoms, with a melting point of between 25°C and 90°C. Examples of alcohol wax that may be mentioned include stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol or arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

Nonpolar hydrocarbon-based waxes

The composition may optionally comprise at least one additional wax chosen from nonpolar hydrocarbon-based waxes.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term“nonpolar hydrocarbon-based wax” is intended to mean a wax comprising only carbon or hydrogen atoms in its structure. In other words, such a wax is free of other atoms, in particular of heteroatoms such as, for example, nitrogen, oxygen or silicon.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of illustration of the nonpolar waxes suitable for the invention, of hydrocarbon- based waxes, for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and microwaxes, in particular of polyethylene.

Silicone waxes

Mention may be made, as silicone wax, for example, of the mixtures comprising a compound of C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) type, for example the product Dow Coming SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax sold by Dow Coming. Mention may also made of the mixtures comprising a compound of the C30-45 Alkyl Methicone (INCI name) type, such as, for example, the product Dow Coming® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax. Mention may also be made of siliconized beeswax.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a content of wax(es), preferably polar, preferably hydrocarbon-based wax(es), of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 6% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

PASTY COMPOUNDS

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one fatty compound that is pasty at ambient temperature.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" is intended to mean fatty substances with a melting point ranging from 20 to 55°C, preferably 25 to 45°C, and/or a viscosity at 40°C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured using a Contraves TV or Rheomat 80 viscometer, equipped with a spindle rotating at 60 Hz.

Those skilled in the art may select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the spindles MS-r3 and MS-r4 on the basis of their general knowledge, so as to be able to perform the measurement on the pasty compound tested.

Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon-based compounds, optionally of polymer type; they may also be chosen from silicone compounds; they may also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone compounds.

ln the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, use is preferably made of hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds (mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen atoms, more particularly in the form of ester groups) in major proportion.

Among the pasty compounds that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives, for instance acetylated lanolins, oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, with a viscosity of from 18 to 21 Pa.s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and/or a melting point of 30 to 55°C, and mixtures thereof. Esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols may also be used, especially those containing from 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of about 20 to 35°C and/or viscosity at 40°C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s), for instance triisostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; polyvinyl laurate; cholesterol esters, for instance triglycerides of plant origin such as partially or totally hydrogenated plant oils, butters of plant origin, viscous polyesters such as poly(l2-hydroxystearic acid), and mixtures thereof.

Pasty compounds that may also be suitable include esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular esters of diglycerol, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and l2-hydroxystearic acid, such as those in particular sold under the brand Softisan 649 by the company Sasol; or else esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dilinoleate dimer esters; such as the products sold under the brand Plandool (bis- behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytostcryl/isostcaryl/cctyl/stcaryl/bchcnyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S)). Mention may also be made of pasty silicone fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) bearing side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and having a melting point of 20-55°C, for instance stearyl dimethicones, especially those sold by the company Dow Coming under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a content of pasty compound(s), preferably polar, preferably hydrocarbon-based pasty compound(s), of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 6% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

T JPOPHTT JC THICKENERS

The composition according to the invention may thus comprise at least one lipophilic thickener.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic thickener" is intended to mean a compound that is capable of thickening the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The lipophilic thickener is thus present in the oily phase of the composition. The thickener is liposoluble or lipodispersible.

As emerges from the text hereinbelow, the lipophilic thickener is advantageously chosen from particulate thickeners, silicas, dextrin esters and polymers containing hydrogen bonding, polyamides, and mixtures thereof.

Particulate thickeners

As representative lipophilic particulate thickeners that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels, dextrin esters, polymers containing hydrogen bonding and the polyamides.

Modified clays

Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic modified clay.

The clays may be natural or synthetic, and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

They are preferably chosen from hectorites.

Hectorites modified with a C 10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38 V ^® by the company Elementis or bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel 1SD Y ^® (87% isododecane/lO% disteardimonium hectorite/3% propylene carbonate) by the company Elementis, are preferably used as lipophilic clays.

Silicas

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as thickener, a fumed silica or silica aerogel particles. a) Fumed silica

Fumed silica which has undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment is most particularly suitable for use in the invention. Indeed, it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is notably possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups may be:

- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812 ^® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530 ^® by the company Cabot;

- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as“Silica Dimethyl Silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972 ^® and Aerosil R974 ^® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610 ^® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720 ^® by the company Cabot. b) Hydrophobic silica aerogels

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as thickener, at least silica aerogel particles.

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have more particularly a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m ² /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m ² /g and better still from 600 to 800 m ² /g, and a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, better still from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

The specific surface area per unit mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to international standard 1SO 5794/1 (annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g.

The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tapped density p ranging from 0.02 g/cm ³ to 0.10 g/cm ³ , preferably from 0.03 g/cm ³ to 0.08 g/cm ³ and in particular ranging from 0.05 g/cm ³ to 0.08 g/cm ³ .

ln the context of the present invention, this density, known as the tapped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:

40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tapping actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of tapped powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tapped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this case 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm ³ and m in g).

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m ² /cm ³ , preferably from 10 to 50 m ² /cm ³ and better still from 15 to 40 m ² /cm ³ .

The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relationship: Sv = SM x p; where p is the tapped density, expressed in g/cm ³ , and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass, expressed in m ² /g, as defined above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g. The absorption capacity, measured at the wet point and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the "wet point" method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measurement of the wet point, described below:

An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until conglomerates of oil and powder have formed. From this point, the oil is added at the rate of one drop at a time and the mixture is subsequently triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread over the glass plate without cracks or the formation of lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

The term "hydrophobic silica" is intended to mean any silica of which the surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes; siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane; or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to the document US 7 470 725.

Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably with the INCI name Silica silylate.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, an example that may be mentioned is the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Coming, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova ^® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.

Use will preferably be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Coming, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5- 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g.

Dextrin esters

The composition according to the invention may comprise as lipophilic thickener at least one dextrin ester. ln particular, the composition preferably comprises at least one preferably C 12 to C24 and in particular C 14 to Cis fatty acid ester of dextrin, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of a C12-C18 and in particular C _M -C _IS fatty acid.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and/or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as the product sold especially under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This product may be chosen, for example, from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL ^® , Rheopearl KL ^® and Rheopearl ^® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

Polymers containing hydrogen bonding

As representatives of polymers containing hydrogen bonding that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon- based polyamides and silicone polyamides.

Polyamides

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon-based polyamides and silicone polyamides, and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the invention, the term“polyamide” means a compound containing at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and better still 10 amide repeating units. a) Hydrocarbon-based polyamide

Advantageously, this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight- average molecular mass of less than 100 000 g/mol (especially ranging from 1000 to 100 000 g/mol), in particular less than 50 000 g/mol (especially ranging from 1000 to 50 000 g/mol) and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30 000 g/mol, preferably from 2000 to 20 000 g/mol and better still from 2000 to 10 000 g/mol.

This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25°C.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (1): in which X represents a group -N(R _I ) ₂ or a group -ORi in which Ri is a linear or branched C ₈ to C22 alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5;

and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular mode, the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (la):

in which X represents a group -N(R _I )2 in which Ri is a linear or branched Cx to C22 alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5;

and mixtures thereof.

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, additionally in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (lb):

in which X represents a group -ORi in which Ri is a linear or branched Cx to C22 and preferably Ci ₆ to C22 alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5, such as the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, the INCI name of which is Ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer. b) Silicone polyamide

The silicone polyamides are preferably solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The silicone polyamides may preferentially be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):

Oil )

or

<JV)

in which:

• R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ , which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from:

- linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, Ci to C ₄₀ hydrocarbon-based groups, possibly containing in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially or totally substituted with fluorine atoms,

- C6to C ₁₀ aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more Ci to C ₄ alkyl groups,

- polyorganosiloxane chains possibly containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms,

• the groups X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ci to C30 alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms,

• Y is a saturated or unsaturated Ci to C50 linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene divalent group, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or may bear as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C3 to C _H cycloalkyl, Ci to C ₄ o alkyl, C5 to C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with one to three Ci to C3 alkyl, Ci to C3 hydroxyalkyl and Ci to C ₆ aminoalkyl groups, or

Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: in which

- T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₃ to C ₂₄ trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and

- R ⁸ represents a linear or branched Ci to C ₅₀ alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups, which may possibly be linked to another chain of the polymer,

• n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and even better still from 6 to 200. According to a particular mode, the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) in which m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150 and is preferably about 100.

More preferably, R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently represent a linear or branched Ci to C40 alkyl group, preferably a group CH3, C2H5, n-CsfU or an isopropyl group in formula (III).

As examples of silicone polymers that may be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of US 5 981 680.

Mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company Dow Coming under the names DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15), the INCI name of which is Nylon-61 l/dimethicone copolymers. The silicone polymers and/or copolymers advantageously have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45°C to l90°C. Preferably, they have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to l30°C and better still from 80°C to l05°C.

Mention may also be made of the polyamide particles Nylon 6, Nylon 6-6, Nylon 12 or Nylon 6-12, in particular of Nylon- 12 particles, with a mean particle diameter of 20 pm, sold especially by the company Arkema under the trade name Orgasol 2002 D NAT COS 204.

The lipophilic thickener(s) may be used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The composition according to the invention comprises water, optionally a water-soluble solvent.

In the present invention, the term“water-soluble solvent” denotes a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and water-miscible (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes, and preferably lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

The water content ranges from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably from 35% to 75% by weight and even more particularly from 40% to 70% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

The content of water-soluble solvent(s) chosen from C2-C5 monoalcohols, if the composition comprises same, is less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition does not comprise the abovementioned water-soluble solvent(s).

LIQUID C2-Cs POLYOLS According to another embodiment variant, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liquid C2-C8, more particularly C2-C6, polyol.

For the purposes of the present invention, a“polyol” should be understood to be any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

The polyol in accordance with the present invention is thus in liquid form at ambient temperature.

A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.

Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, ethylhexyl glycerol, and diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol and diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one liquid C2-C8 polyol, and preferably glycerin.

Said polyol(s) are generally present in the composition in an amount of at least 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 7% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

HYDROPHTT JC THICKENERS

The composition comprises at least one hydrophilic thickener.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic thickener" is intended to mean a compound that is capable of thickening the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The thickener may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.

The hydrophilic thickener may be chosen from polymeric thickeners that are natural or of natural origin and synthetic polymeric thickeners, and mixtures thereof.

Polymeric thickeners that are natural or of natural origin

The polymeric hydrophilic thickeners that are suitable for the invention may be natural or of natural origin.

For the purposes of the invention, the term“of natural origin" is intended to denote polymeric thickeners obtained by modification of natural polymeric thickeners.

These thickeners may be particulate or non-particulate.

More specifically, these thickeners fall within the category of polysaccharides.

ln general, polysaccharides may be divided into several categories. Thus, the polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.

Similarly, they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.

More particularly, the polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether or not they are starchy.

Examples of non-starchy polysaccharides that may be mentioned include carrageenans, in particular kappa carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin and pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of hyaluronic acid, or a salt thereof such as the sodium salt, such as sodium hyaluronate.

Synthetic polymeric thickeners

For the purposes of the invention, the term "synthetic" means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor a derivative of a polymer of natural origin.

The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic thickener under consideration according to the invention may or may not be particulate.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "particulate" means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.

As emerges from the text hereinbelow, the polymeric hydrophilic thickener is advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and crosslinked and/or neutralized 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof, especially as defined below.

Particulate synthetic polymeric thickeners

They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.

They may especially be crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, which are preferably partially neutralized or neutralized, and which are in particulate form.

According to one embodiment, the particulate thickener according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates. Preferably, it has in the dry or non-hydrated state a mean size of less than or equal to 100 pm and preferably less than or equal to 50 pm. The mean size of the particles corresponds to the mass-average diameter (D50) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art.

Thus, preferably, the particulate thickener according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles with a mean size (or mean diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles. As examples of crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, mention may be made of those sold under the names Octacare XI 00, XI 10 and RM100 by the company Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1110 by the company BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing.

Mention may also be made of crosslinked polyacrylate microspheres, for instance those sold under the name Aquakeep® 10 SH NF by the company Sumitomo Seika.

Non-particulate synthetic polymeric thickeners

This family of thickeners may be detailed under the following subfamilies:

1. Associative polymers,

2. Polyacrylamides and crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, and

3. Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers.

More particularly, the polymers used that are suitable as aqueous thickeners for the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least the 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS ^® ) monomer, in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base other than aqueous ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

They are preferably totally or almost totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.

These AMPS ^® polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ^® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonate polymers (INCI name: Ammonium Polydimethyltauramide) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 Bl and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ^® by the company Clariant.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention, examples that may be mentioned include: - crosslinked acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, such as that used in the commercial product Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/Ci ₃ -Ci ₄ isoparaffin/laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC;

- copolymers of AMPS ^® and of vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC ^® by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

- copolymers of AMPS ^® and of sodium acrylate, for instance the AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG ^® by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer);

- copolymers of AMPS ^® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the AMPS ^® /hydroxy ethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS ^® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60), or such as the product sold under the name sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer).

Mention may also be made of the polymer which has the INCI name: Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, such as that sold by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepiplus™ 265 (INCI: Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer (And) Polyisobutene (And) Polysorbate 20).

The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from a,b-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or esters thereof, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) comprising a hydrophobic group.

Among said abovementioned polymers, the ones that are most particularly preferred according to the present invention are acrylate/C io-C3o-alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates/C io-3o Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR-l, Pemulen TR-2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020 and Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2.

Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP ^® containing 90% solids and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL ^® as an inverse emulsion containing about 60% solids, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates that are in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example the product sold under the name Luvigel ^® EM by the company BASF.

The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers.

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "(meth)acrylic" means "acrylic or methacrylic".

Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, or by 3V-Sigma under the name Synthalen ^® K, Synthalen ^® L or Synthalen ^® M.

Among the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, mention may be made in particular of Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) sold by the company Lubrizol.

The hydrophilic thickener(s) may be used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.2% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

NACRES

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one nacre.

The term "nacres" should be understood as meaning iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or alternatively synthesized, which have a color effect via optical interference.

The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.

Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery color or tint.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres sold by the company Sun Chemical.

By way of examples, mention may be made of the gold-colored nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone GO 12 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the nacres according to the invention are micas covered with titanium dioxide or with iron oxide, and also bismuth oxychloride.

According to one advantageous embodiment of the invention, the nacres are chosen from those having a mean particle size (corresponding to the D50 (mean diameter, measured by laser particle size analysis or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art)) of at least 70 pm, preferably at least 100 pm.

In particular, such nacres may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and even more particularly from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

PIGMENTS

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pigment. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment.

The term“pigments” is intended to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous or oily medium, and which are intended to color and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.

These pigments may be coated or uncoated mineral pigments.

Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, titanium oxides and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder or copper powder. These pigments may also be organic pigments.

The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.

The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color lndex under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color lndex under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color lndex under the references Cl 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color lndex under the references Cl 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic or phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may in particular be composed of particles comprising a mineral core at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.

The pigment may also be a lake. The term“lake” is intended to mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed or precipitated onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The mineral substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

Advantageously, the pigments may have been subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be for example chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N- acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The term“alkyl” mentioned in the compounds cited previously especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Hydrophobic treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-l 086 683. Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine.

Mention may also be made of the products, and also the lakes thereof, known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D&C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D&C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D&C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D&C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D&C Green (Cl 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (Cl 77 002), D&C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) had been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 6% by weight, and even more particularly from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

In accordance with one particularly advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the composition contains at the same time, on the one hand, one or more nacres and, on the other hand, one or more pigments; the pigments are preferably organic pigments having optionally undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment, and/or mineral pigments, preferably having undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment. According to this embodiment, the nacre content in the composition preferably represents from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and the pigment content is advantageously between 2% and 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

FILLERS

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more filler(s) conventionally used in makeup and/or care compositions. It should be noted that the fillers are neither pigments nor nacres.

These fillers are colorless or white solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

These fillers, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, make it possible to give the composition containing them softness, a matt effect and uniformity of the makeup result. In addition, these fillers advantageously make it possible to combat various attacking factors such as sebum or sweat.

As illustrations of these fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly-b- alanine powder and polyethylene powder, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon ^® ), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel ^® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls ^® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules. Use may also be made of particles that are in the form of hollow sphere portions, as described in the patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789.

In particular, if the composition comprises such fillers, the latter may be present in a content ranging from 0.3% to less than 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 7% by weight, and preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one active agent, for example chosen from anti-UV agents, vitamins, chelating agents, etc.

It is a matter of routine operation for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not thereby affected.

Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

More particularly, on the one hand, the aqueous phase and, on the other hand, the fatty phase can be prepared according to the conventional methods in the field, the nacres and where appropriate the pigments and/or the fillers representing the third particulate phase.

It should be noted that these steps can be carried out at ambient temperature or at a temperature sufficient to promote the obtaining of a homogeneous phase. For example, the fatty phase, when it comprises at least one wax, is advantageously prepared at a temperature above the melting point of the wax.

It should be noted that a mixture of the nacres/pigments and fillers can be prepared with a fraction of the fatty phase.

The aqueous and fatty phases are then subsequently mixed, by introducing the fatty phase into the aqueous phase previously thickened by dispersion of the hydrophilic thickener in water, with stirring.

Once the mixture has been prepared, the particulate phase, optionally comprising a portion of the fatty phase, is introduced and is homogenized.

A composition in the form of an inverse emulsion is then obtained.

Once the composition has been obtained, it is packaged in a device suitable in the field, optionally equipped with stirring means (for example balls in the container where the composition is stored).

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

The expressions "between... and..." and "ranging from... to..." should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified. In addition, the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition. The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts shown are expressed as weight percentage.

EXAMPLE

In the table that follows, the amount of each compound is given as % by weight/total weight of the composition. Composition :

Preparation:

- of phase A (fatty phase):

The components of phase A are weighed out and heated at a temperature necessary to dissolve them: the phase obtained is homogeneous; - of phase B (aqueous phase):

The components of phase B 1 are weighed out and the thickener (phase B2) is then dispersed, then stirred with a Rayneri blender so as to obtain gelling of phase B; - of the emulsion:

Phase A is poured into phase B with slow stirring (300 rpm) so as to gradually incorporate the fatty phase. At the end of the introduction, the stirring speed is increased.

Finally, phase C is added.

Phase D is added with gentle stirring (300 rpm) and the speed is then gradually increased

(500 rpm).

Results:

A creamy stable composition, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, is obtained which has intense, unique optical effects: an intense luminous color, with strong metallized optical effects.

It can be applied to the lips and makes it possible to obtain original makeup effects.

The composition is easy to apply in a precise deposit (without running out of the makeup area) and gives a fresh effect.

The deposit obtained is comfortable and not very tacky.