GEL-CREAM HAIR CARE COMPOSITION

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a hair care composition in the form of a gel-cream comprising a particular association of at least one emulsifying polymer and at least one thickener chosen from acrylic and/or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers, an oil phase containing at least one oil and at least one fatty alcohol, and at least one neutralizing agent. The composition according to the present invention is useful for volume and frizz control and curl definition of the hair, particularly curly and wavy hair.

The present invention also relates to a method for styling the hair, the use of said hair care composition, and a method of imparting to hair one or more of volume control, shape, curl definition and frizz control.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The quality, condition and appearance of hair can be adversely affected by many factors, such as excessive use of hair dryer and flat iron, lack of moisture, mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing, and humid weather. The hair can thus be damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, frizzy, coarse, brittle or dull, in particular in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends. The types of hair that suffer most from frizz are curly and wavy hair, which have a greater tendency to dryness. As the humidity in the air increases, the hair shafts become more electric and repel each other, resulting in frizz.

In addition to frizz, curly and wavy hair can also suffer from non-ideal volume and lack of shape, mainly due to the physical characteristics of the hair shafts and excessive dryness. Further, hair health loss caused by moisture deficiency or excess of chemical treatment can make the hair porous and consequently with less discipline along the day. As a result, hair becomes unmanageable and undisciplined, and loses its natural shape and/or curl definition.

Thus, one area where manufacturers are always seeking to improve in is in the area of hair cosmetic products such as those products designed to provide hair care benefits of manageability, frizz control, volume reduction, and improved quality of the hair fiber and/or to change the appearance, shape or configuration of hair, as well as have textures and consistencies that are desirable and appealing to consumers. Examples of such hair cosmetic products are conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks, serum, hair repair products, and other hair treatment products. Such products may afford the hair good cosmetic properties; however, users sometimes feel that their hair becomes lank, flat or weighed down by the product and/or becomes greasy. When the product is too thick, it may also prove to be difficult to distribute it evenly when applied to the hair. Other products such as oily serums or hair oils are designed to improve the visual sleekness of the hair, especially by reducing the frizziness, while at the same time imparting manageability and a certain level of control of the volume of the head of hair. Other types of products employ polymers such as film forming polymers, gums and polysaccharides.

However, the introduction of certain ingredients can pose formulation challenges; for example, the products can become sticky or tacky upon application and once dry, may become stiff and/or "crunchy" (i.e. the film is hard and brittle resulting in a crunching feel or sound when the hair is touched), which is undesirable for many consumers. Also, the performance of such products may still not be optimal, especially from the point of view of the efficacy in reducing the frizziness, the ease of application of the composition, the ability to deliver other active materials to hair, reduce/prevent the damaged feel or look of hair, especially after or during a hair chemical treatment and the final cosmeticity and feel of the treated hair.

Need therefore still exists to develop new hair care compositions which are suitable for the cosmetics field, and which are able to effectively provide adequate visual sleekness of the hair; good feel and conditioned feel of the hair, and in particular of wet hair; control, or even elimination, of frizziness, and also control or reduction of the volume and of the apparent mass of the head of hair, the said compositions thus being most particularly suitable for curly and/or voluminous hair. At the same time, there is also a need to develop products that have interesting and desirable textures, consistencies, and appearance.

One aim of the present invention is to provide a hair care composition, such as a composition for styling or shaping the hair, for volume and frizz control and curl definition or curl regularity of the hair, in particular curly and wavy hair.

Another aim of the present invention is to provide a light feel and easy spreadable composition for treating and/or shaping the hair.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a hair care composition in the form of a gel-cream comprising a particular association of at least one emulsifying polymer and at least one thickener chosen from acrylic and/or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers, an oil phase containing at least one oil and at least one fatty alcohol, and at least one neutralizing agent.

Another object of the present invention is a process for styling the hair using the composition as disclosed herein.

Another object of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a hair care composition as disclosed herein.

A further object of the present invention is a process of imparting to hair one or more of volume control, shape, curl definition and frizz control using the composition as disclosed herein.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the particular association of an emulsifying polymer and a thickener chosen from acrylic and/or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers provides an oil-in-water emulsion of gel- cream-like texture having cosmetic properties, more particularly such compositions provides effective volume and frizz control and curl definition of curly and wavy hair. Moreover, the hair care compositions of the present invention have a very light sensorial feel and are easy spreadable which is positively perceived by consumers.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 shows the texture and consistency of the inventive composition; Gel composition on the left; gel-cream composition according to the invention in the center and cream composition on the right.

FIG. 2 shows the effects of two compositions on hair swatch volume and frizziness compared to non-treated control group under room conditions.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, the terms "a," "an," and "the" are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.

The expression "at least one" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

As used herein, the term "aqueous phase" means a phase comprising water and generally any molecule in dissolved form in water in the composition.

The aqueous phase of the compositions of the present invention contains water and may contain other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents. The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents comprise monoalcohols with a short chain, for example of C-i-Cs or C1-C4, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, for instance ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, caprylyl glycol, and sorbitol. Propylene glycol, glycerol and 1 ,3-propanediol will be used more particularly.

The amount of water preferably ranges from about 60% to about 95% by weight, and preferably from about 90% to about 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

As used herein, the term "curl definition" with regard to hair means that the hair is separated into discrete locks of hair, wherein there is substantial uniformity in curl shape among each hair in a given lock such that the lock appears as an integral curl.

As used herein, the term "curl regularity" means that the hair is separated into discrete locks of hair, wherein there is substantial uniformity in curl shape among each lock of the hair such that the hair appears as an array of substantially similar curly locks.

All percentages, parts and ratios are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the specific ingredient level and, therefore, do not include solvents, carriers, by-products, filler or other minor ingredients that may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about," meaning within +/- 10% of the indicated number (e.g. "about 10%" means 9% - 1 1 % and "about 2%" means 1 .8% - 2.2%), such as within 9%, 8%, 7%, 6%, 5%, 4%, 3%, 2%, or 1 %, according to various embodiments.

As used herein, the terms "applying a composition onto "keratinous substrates" as used herein, includes, and "applying a composition onto "keratinous substrates" or "keratin fibers" such as hair on a human head with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner.

The term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of keratinous substrates such as hair. The term 'treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting keratinous substrates such as hair with the compositions of the present invention.

As used herein, the term "volume control" means that the hair has low volume at the roots of the hair, and moderate volume along the length of the hair.

As used herein, the phrase "discipline" means that the hair is more manageable and less frizzy, and has fewer flyaways.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "effective amount" means an amount that is sufficient to obtain the expected effect.

The abbreviation PCPC refers to the organization Personal Care Products Council, which was formerly known as Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA).

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference, and for any and all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of an inconsistency between the present disclosure and any publications or patent application incorporated herein by reference, the present disclosure controls.

"Cosmetically acceptable" means that the item in question is compatible with any keratinous substrate. For example, "cosmetically acceptable carrier" means a carrier that is compatible with any keratinous substrate.

EMULSIFYING POLYMERS

The hair care compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one component chosen from emulsifying polymers, also referred to interchangeably herein as rheology modifiers/rheology modifying agents. Emulsifying polymers are generally used to modify the viscosity or rheology of compositions. In the present invention, the emulsifying polymer is responsible for interacting with the oil phase, stabilizing the oil particles in the aqueous phase.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "emulsifying polymer" is intended to denote a polymer having amphiphilic properties, i.e. having at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part. Hydrophilic groups and hydrophobic groups are well known to those skilled in the art.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" is intended to denote a compound comprising at least two repeating units and in particular at least five repeating units.

An emulsifying polymer may especially be a polymer derived from acrylic acid and/or at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one 2- acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit.

Acrylic acid-based polymers (of Pemulen and Carbopol type)

The emulsifying polymer(s) according to the present invention may be chosen from acrylic acid derivatives. These polymers comprise:

- from 80 mol% to 99 mol% of acrylic acid (AA) units of formula (I) below:

CM, C l l

in which X ⁺ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion; and

- from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferably from 1 mol% to 1 5 mol% of units of formula (II) below:

R

! 1

OB, ₍

A R ^| (II)

in which Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl), A denotes an ester or amide group or an oxygen atom and R ₄ denotes a linear or branched alkyl comprising m carbon atoms with m ranging from 6 to 30 and preferably from 1 0 to 25.

As acrylic acid-derived amphiphilic polymers that are preferred according to the present invention, mention may be made of:

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and laureth-25 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 25® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and beheneth-25 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 28® by the company Rohm & Haas, - the crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and vinyl neodecanoate, sold under the name Aculyn 38® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- the crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and steareth- 20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 88® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- crosslinked copolymers of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of (meth)acrylic acid, for instance Pemulen TR1 ® and TR2® sold by the company Lubrizol,

- the crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and of vinyl isodecanoate, sold under the name Stabylen 30® by the company 3 V,

- crosslinked copolymers obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and from a C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, sold under the name Carbopol ETD 2020® and Carbopol

1382® by the company Lubrizol,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and steareth-20 itaconate, sold under the name Structure 2001 ® by the company National Starch,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and ceteth-20 itaconate, sold under the name Structure 3001 ® by the company AkzoNobel,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid, aminoacrylate and C10-C30 alkyl PEG 20 itaconate, sold under the name Structure Plus® by the company AkzoNobel,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and ethoxylated alcohol dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate, sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000® by the company Amerchol.

The acrylic acid-based polymer is in particular a non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and ethoxylated alcohol dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate.

Preferably, the said emulsifying polymer is chosen from acrylic acid- based polymers, and in particular crosslinked copolymers of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of (meth)acrylic acid, for instance Pemulen TR1 ® and TR2®.

Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one 2- acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit

The amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one 2- acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit that may be used in the present invention, which are also known more simply as "amphiphilic AMPS polymers" hereinbelow, comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part comprising at least one fatty chain.

The fatty chain present in the said amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the present invention may preferably comprise from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 7 to 22 carbon atoms.

The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the present invention are especially chosen from amphiphilic polymers of at least one acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) monomer and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated comonomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 7 to 22 carbon atoms or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the present invention generally have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 50,000 to 10,000,000 g/mol, in particular from 100,000 to 8,000,000 g/mol and even more particularly from 100,000 to 7,000,000 g/mol.

They may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

When the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the present invention are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization.

Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebis(acrylamide), methylenebis(methacrylamide), triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allylic or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allylic esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

The crosslinking agents may be chosen especially from methylenebis(acrylamide), allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).

The degree of crosslinking may range, for example, from 0.01 mol% to 10 rmol% and preferably from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer. The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the present invention may be chosen especially from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylarmine, such as those described in patent application WO00/31 154.

An amphiphilic polymer that is suitable for use in the present invention may comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomer chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures thereof.

An amphiphilic polymer according to the present invention may comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic comonomer.

An amphiphilic polymer that is suitable for use in the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophobic part chosen from saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl radicals, for instance n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl and oleyl, branched alkyl radicals, for instance isostearyl, or cyclic alkyl radicals, for instance cyclododecane or adamantane.

An amphiphilic AMPS polymer may also contain at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic comonomer comprising, for example:

- a fluoro or C7-C18 fluoroalkyl radical (for example the group of formula

-(CH2)2-(CF2)9-CF ₃ ),

- a cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol-based radical (for example cholesteryl hexanoate),

- a polycyclic aromatic group, for instance naphthalene or pyrene, - a silicone, alkylsilicone or alkylfluorosilicone radical.

These copolymers are especially described in document EP-A-750 899 and patent US-A-5 089 578.

They are also described in documents EP 1 069 142, WO 02/44224, WO 02/44225, WO 02/44227, WO 02/44229, WO 02/44230, WO 02/44231 , WO 02/44267, WO 02/44268, WO 02/44269, WO 02/44270, WO 02/44271 , WO 02/43677, WO 02/43686, WO 02/43687, WO 02/43688 and WO 02/43689, in the name of Clariant.

An ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic comonomer of the present invention may preferably be chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula ( III) below:

C H

O

in which:

- R ^a denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyi radical, preferably methyl;

- Y denotes O or NH;

- R ^b denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 22 and more particularly from 1 2 to 22 carbon atoms.

The hydrophobic radical R ^b is chosen from saturated or unsaturated linear C7-C22 alkyi radicals (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched alkyi radicals (for example isostearic) or cyclic alkyi radicals (for example cyclododecane or adamantane); C7-C18 alkylperfluoro radicals (for example the group of formula (CH2)2-(CF2)9-CF3); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester, for instance cholesteryl hexanoate; aromatic polycyclic groups, for instance naphthalene or pyrene.

Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyi radicals are more particularly preferred.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobic radical R ^b may also comprise at least one alkylene oxide unit and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain.

The polyoxyalkylene chain may preferentially consist of ethylene oxide units and/or propylene oxide units and even more particularly consist solely of ethylene oxide units.

The number of moles of oxyalkylene units may generally range from 1 to 30 mol, more preferentially from 1 to 25 mol and even more preferentially from 3 to 20 mol.

Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

- copolymers, which may or may not be crosslinked and which may or may not be neutralized, comprising from 1 5% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (Cs-Ci6)alkyl (meth)acrylamide units or of (Cs-Ci6)alkyl (meth)acrylamide units, relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-750 899;

- terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(Ce- Ci8)alkylacrylamide units relative to the polymer, such as those described in document US-A-5 089 578;

- non-crosslinked copolymers of partially or completely neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl methacrylate, n-hexadecyl methacrylate or n-octadecyl methacrylate;

- crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers of partially or completely neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide.

Amphiphilic AMPS polymers that may also be mentioned include copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and/or n- octadecyl methacrylate, and also non-crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide.

Mention will be made more particularly of crosslinked or non- crosslinked amphiphilic AMPS copolymers consisting of:

(a) 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units of formula

(IV) below:

in which X is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion;

(b) and units of formula (V) below:

R ³

C C

H ₂

O C

0-(CH ₂ C¾0)n-(CH ₂ CH(CH ₁ )0)p-R ^c

(V)

in which n and p, independently of each other, denote a number of moles and range from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 25 and more preferentially from 3 to 20, with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and better still less than 20; R ^a denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci - C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl, and R ^c denotes a linear or branched alkyl containing from 7 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

In formula (IV), the cation X more particularly denotes sodium or ammonium.

Among the monomers of formula (V) that may be mentioned are:

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C10-C18 fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 8 OE, for instance the product Genapol C-080® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C11 fatty oxo alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 8 OE, for instance the product Genapol UD-080® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a Ci2-Ci ₄ fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 7 OE, for instance the product Genapol LA-070® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a Ci2-Ci ₄ fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 1 1 OE, for instance the product Genapol LA-1 10® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C16-C18 fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 8 OE, for instance the product Genapol T-080® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C16-C18 fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 1 5 OE, for instance the product Genapol T-150® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C16-C18 fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 1 1 OE, for instance the product Genapol T-1 10® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C16-C18 fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 20 OE, for instance the product Genapol T-200® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C18-C22 fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 25 OE, for instance the product Genapol T-250® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C18-C22 fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 25 OE and/or of a C16-C18 fatty isoalcohol polyoxyethylenated with 25 OE.

The products that will be chosen more particularly are:

i. the non-crosslinked products for which p = 0, n = 7 or 25, R ^a denotes a methyl and R ^c represents a mixture of C12-C14 or C16-C18 alkyl,

ii. the crosslinked products for which p = 0, n = 8 or 25, R ^a denotes a methyl and R ^c represents a mixture of C16-C18 alkyl.

These polymers are described and synthesized in patent application EP

1 069 142.

These particular amphiphilic AMPS polymers may be obtained according to the standard free-radical polymerization processes in the presence of one or more initiators, for instance azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, 2,2-azobis[2-amidinopropane] hydrochloride (ABAH = 2,2-Azo-Bis-[2-Amidinopropane] Hydrochloride), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide or tert-butyl hydroperoxide, mineral peroxide compounds such as potassium persulfate or ammonium persulfate, or H2O2 optionally in the presence of reducing agents.

These amphiphilic AMPS polymers may be obtained especially by free- radical polymerization in tert-butanol medium, in which they precipitate. By using precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a size distribution of the polymer particles that is particularly favourable for its uses.

The reaction may be performed at a temperature of between 0 and 150°C and preferably between 10 and 100°C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure.

It may also be performed under inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.

The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the present invention may preferably be partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N- methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for instance arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They may especially be totally or almost totally neutralized, i.e. at least 80% neutralized.

The molar percentage concentration of the units of formula (IV) and of the units of formula (V) in the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the present invention may vary as a function of the desired cosmetic application, for example the nature of the emulsion (oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion) and the rheological properties of the desired formulation. It may range, for example, between 0.1 mol% and 99.9 mol%.

The sparingly hydrophobic amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the present invention will be more suitable for thickening and/or stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions.

The molar proportion of units of formula (V) may then preferably range from 0.1 mol% to 50 mol%, more particularly from 1 mol% to 25 mol% and even more particularly from 3 mol% to 10 mol%.

The more hydrophobic amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the present invention will be more suitable for thickening and/or stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions.

The molar proportion of units of formula (V) may then preferably range from 50.1 mol% to 99.9 mol%, more particularly from 60 rmol% to 95 mol% and even more particularly from 65 mol% to 90 mol%.

The distribution of the monomers in the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the present invention may be, for example, alternate, block (including multiblock) or random.

As a guide, and without this being limiting, mention may be made especially of the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate (non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from Genapol LA-070 and from AMPS) (PCPC name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer) sold by the company Clariant, the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated (25 EO) stearyl methacrylate (copolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, obtained from Genapol T-250 and from AMPS) (PCPC name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) sold by the company Clariant, Aristoflex SNC (80/20 copolymer of AMPS/ethoxylated (8 mol EO) C16-C18 alcohol methacrylate; PCPC name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer) and Aristoflex HMB® (copolymer of AMPS/ethoxylated (25 EO) behenyl methacrylate, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA); PCPC name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Meth acrylate Crosspolymer).

In an embodiment of the present invention, the emulsifying polymer is acrylate/Cio-C3o alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates/Cio-C3o Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names PEMULEN™ TR1 and PEMULEN™ TR2 may be chosen.

It is contemplated that, in at least certain exemplary and non-limiting embodiments, the emulsifying polymer of the disclosure may include compounds such as gellifying and viscosity modifying agents.

The emulsifying polymer(s) of the present invention may be employed in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 3% by weight, or such as from about 0.1 % to about 1 % by weight, or such as from about 0.1 % to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

THICKENER

The hair care compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one thickener component chosen from acrylic and/or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers. The acrylic and/or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers may be chosen from acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers. Examples of such polymers or copolymers are in particular carbomers.

Preferably, the thickener of the present invention is a carbomer that is soluble or dispersible in water, such as a hydrophilic carbomer, and allow to thicken and stabilize the aqueous phase.

According to the present invention, the carbomers of the hair care compositions include, but are not limited to those known by the CTFA-designated (or PCPC-designated) technical name of carbomers: 934, 940, 941 , 951 , 954, 956, 980, 981 , 1342, 2984, EDT 2001 , 934P and Ultrez 1 0, which may be commercially available under the tradenames of CARBOPOL® (e.g., CARBOPOL® 934, 940, 941 , 951 , 954, 956, 980, 981 , 1342, 2984, 5984, CARBOPOL® ULTREZ 10 and CARBOPOL® ULTREZ 30 (from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) or TEGO® CARBOMER (from Evonik Nutrition & Care Gmbh) or ACRITAMER (from Rita Corporation) or AQUPEC (Sumitomo Seika Chemicals Co. LTD) or ACRYPOL® (from Corel Pharma Chem) or ASHLANDTM 980 MS CARBOMER (from Ashland).

In an embodiment of the present invention, the at least one thickener is a carbomer that is a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene like the carbomer sold under the commercial name or tradename of CARBOPOL® from Lubrizol such as CARBOPOL® 980 POLYMER or ACRYPOL® 980 from Corel Pharma Chem.

The at least one thickener of the present invention may be employed in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, or such as from about 0.5% to about 3% by weight, or such as from about 0.5% to about 1 .5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

OIL PHASE

The hair care compositions according to the present invention comprise an oil phase comprising at least one component chosen from oils and at least one component chosen from fatty alcohols.

The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The compositions according to the invention more specifically comprise at least one oil.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of vegetable or plant oils, ester oils, non-ester oils (such as silicone oils, fluoro oils, and hydrocarbon-based oils), animal oils, fatty acids, fatty esters, or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

Vegetable or plant oils

As used herein the term "vegetable" is interpreted broadly so that it encompasses all plants of the kingdom Plantae. Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils include coconut oil, Corn oil, Cottonseed oil, Olive oil, Palm oil, Peanut oil Rapeseed oil, Safflower oil, Sesame oil, Soybean oil, and Sunflower oil. Non-limiting examples of nut-derived vegetable oils include Hazelnut oil, Almond oil, Beech nut oil, Brazil nut oil, Extra virgin oil, Cashew oil, Macadamia oil, Mongongo nut oil (or manketti oil), Pecan oil, Pine nut oil, Pistachio oil, and Walnut oil. Non-limiting examples of citrus oil include Grapefruit seed oil, Lemon oil, Orange oil. Non-limiting examples of oils from melon and gourd seeds include Watermelon seed oil, Bitter gourd oil, Bottle gourd oil, Buffalo gourd oil, Butternut squash seed oil, Egusi seed oil, Pumpkin seed oil. Additional non-limiting examples of oils include Borage seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, and evening primrose oil, which all have a significant amount of gamma-Linolenic acid (GLA), Agai oil, Black seed oil, Blackcurrant seed oil, Borage seed oil, Evening primrose oil, Flaxseed oil (called linseed oil when used as a drying oil), Amaranth oil, Apricot oil, Apple seed oil, Argan oil, Avocado oil, Babassu oil, Ben oil, Borneo tallow nut oil, Cape chestnut oil, Carob pod oil (Algaroba oil), Cocoa butter, Cocklebur oil, Cohune oil, Coriander seed oil, Date seed oil, Dika oil, False flax oil made of the seeds of Camelina sativa, Grape seed oil, Hemp oil, Kapok seed oil, Kenaf seed oil, Lallermantia oil, Mafura oil, Marula oil, Meadowfoam seed oil, Mustard oil (pressed), poppyseed oil, Okra seed oil, Papaya seed oil, Perilla seed oil, Persimmon seed oil, Pequi oil, Pili nut oil, Pomegranate seed oil, and Pracaxi oil.

Preferably, the oil of the present invention is a vegetable or plant oil selected from the group consisting of almond oil, babassu oil (Orbigyna Oleifera Seed Oil), castor oil, Clark A oil, coconut oil, corn oil, cotton seed oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, mustard oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower-seed oil, wheat germ oil, isopropyl isostearate, n-propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, hexyl laurate, hexadecyl isostearate, hexydecyl laurate, hexyldecyl octanoate, n-propyl palmitate, and isopropyl palmitate, or mixtures thereof.

Ester oils

Esters of C ₄ -C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C ₄ - C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di- n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2- ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. The term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon- based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose. The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.

As examples of non-limiting ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2- ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

Non-ester oils

The non-ester oil may be chosen from natural, synthetic, saturated and unsaturated oils, including silicone oils, fluoro oils, hydrocarbon -based oils and mineral oils. Mention may be made of linear, branched and/or cyclic alkanes which may be volatile and, in particular, liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly or hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isododecane or "Isopars", and volatile isoparaffins.

Mention may also be made of aliphatic fatty liquid monoalcohols containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon -based chain not comprising a substitution group. Monoalcohols according to the invention that may be mentioned include oleyl alcohol, decanol, octyldodecanol and linoleyl alcohol.

The term "silicone oil" relates to oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group. The term "fluoro oil" relates to oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" relates to oil comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oil may be animal hydrocarbon-based oil, plant hydrocarbon-based oil, mineral hydrocarbon-based oil or a synthetic hydrocarbon-based oil. Further, suitable oil may be a mineral hydrocarbon-based oil, a plant hydrocarbon-based oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon- based oil.

Mention may be made of silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylphenylsiloxanes, optionally substituted with aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, which are optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups, and volatile silicone oils, which are especially cyclic.

In particular, mention may be made of volatile and/or non-volatile, optionally branched silicone oils. The term "volatile oil" means oil capable of evaporating from the skin or the lips in less than one hour, and especially having a vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 10 ^"3 to 300 mmHg (0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa).

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 1 0 carbon atoms. Mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octarmethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Among the non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned are nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes, such as non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethyl-siloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and polymethyl-phenylsiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids (especially of C8-C20), fatty alcohols (especially of C8-C20) or polyoxyalkylenes (especially polyoxy-ethylene and/or polyoxypropylene); amino polysiloxanes; polysiloxanes containing hydroxyl groups; fluoro poly-siloxanes comprising a fluorinated group that is pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, all or some of the hydrogen atoms of which are replaced with fluorine atoms; and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-1 1 , phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes dimethicone, and optionally additional oils, including additional silicone oils. Typically, the one or more silicone oils is a non-volatile silicon oil. In some embodiments, the silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2- phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

Other examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity 8 centistokes (8x10 ⁶ m ² /s) and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the disclosure, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

The fluoro oil may be selected from the group consisting of perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, bromoperfluorooctyl, nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoroethoxyisobutane and 4- trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine. Volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, may also be used.

The hydrocarbon-based oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil, and/or a synthetic oil. In some embodiments, the compositions include a synthetic oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene.

The hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, such as: (i) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C ₄ to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, and musk rose oil;

(ii) synthetic ethers containing from 1 0 to 40 carbon atoms;

(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;

(iv) synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms on condition that R+R' is > 10, for instance Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® by Innospec Active Chemicals or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by Ashland, Inc., isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, , octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C12-C13 alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Sasol Perfomance Chemicals, and also di(linear C14-C15 alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; or acetates;

(v) higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

(vi) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by BASF; (vii) fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® from Ajinomoto; and

(vii) essential oils selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berries oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedar oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, and ylang ylang.

In certain instances, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are glyceride triesters and in particular to caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol.

As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, mention is made of hydrocarbon- based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular of branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, such as Cs-Ci 6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C C8-C16 esters, and isohexyl neopentanoate.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the at least one oil contains a mixture of fatty acids.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the at least one oil contains a mixure of fatty acids comprising lauric acid (45-48%), Mystiric Acid (16-20%), Palmitic Acid (8-1 1 %), Oleic Acid (6-9%), Capric Acid (5-9%), Caprylic Acid (5-9%), Stearic Acid (2-4%), Linoleic Acid (1 -3%).

In an embodiment of the present invention, the at least one oil is coconut {Cocos nucifera) oil.

The oil of the present invention may be employed in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 30% by weight, or such as from about 0.5% to about 25% by weight, or such as from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. The oil phase of the hair care compositions according to the present invention also comprise at least one fatty alcohol. Preferably, the fatty alcohol of the present invention is chosen from the group consisting of solid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

The at least one fatty alcohol may be a liquid fatty alcohol, i.e., a fatty alcohol that is liquid at room temperature, and that may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The saturated liquid fatty alcohols can be branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They can be acyclic.

The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols exhibit, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They can be acyclic. Among the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, and undecylenyl alcohol may be mentioned.

The solid fatty alcohol of the present invention may be crystalline, amorphous or pasty. The solid fatty alcohols of the present invention are solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm) and are insoluble in water (i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1 % by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25 ^e C and 1 atm) and are soluble, under the same temperature and pressure conditions, in at least one organic solvent (for example ethanol, chloroform, benzene or liquid petroleum jelly) to at least 1 % by weight.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the solid fatty alcohols preferably have a melting point of greater than or equal to 28 ^e C and have a viscosity, at a temperature of 40 ^Q C and at a shear rate of 1 s"1 , of greater than or equal to 1 Pa.s.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the melting point of the fatty alcohols ranges from 30 ^S C to 250 ^S C, such as from 32 ^e C to 1 50 ^S C or such as from 35 ^S C to 150 ^a C. The melting points may be measured by DSC or on a Kofler bench. The melting point may be measured by differential calorimetric analysis (DSC) with a temperature rise of 1 0 ^Q C per minute. The melting point is then the temperature corresponding to the top of the melting endotherm peak obtained during the measurement.

The viscosity measurements may be taken at a temperature of about 40 ^e C using an RS600 rheometer from Thermoelectron.

The solid fatty alcohols of the present invention are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono) alcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, such as from 1 0 to 30 carbon atoms, or such as from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols preferably have the structure of formula: R-OH in which R especially denotes a C6-C60, for example, Cs-Ceo, preferably C10-C50 or even C12-C30 alkyl group, R possibly being substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, R possibly being branched.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Other suitable examples of the solid fatty alcohol of the present invention include branched solid fatty alcohols chosen from 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1 -octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1 -eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl-1 -octadecanol and 2-hexadecyl-1 -eicosanol, and mixtures thereof.

The solid fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

The solid fatty alcohols of the invention are preferably non- oxyalkylenated and/or non-glycerolated. These fatty alcohols may be constituents of animal or plant waxes.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol).

In an embodiment of the present invention, the at least one solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the at least one solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetearyl alcohol.

The fatty alcohol of the present invention may be employed in an amount of from about 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 1 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

NEUTRALIZING AGENT

The hair care compositions according to the present invention comprise a neutralizing agent that neutralize the emulsifying polymer and the thickener of the present invention. To that end, the emulsifying polymer and the thickener of the present invention are combined with a water soluble base before being added into the composition of the present invention.

The neutralizing water soluble base is employed in an amount sufficient to achieve the desired texture of gel-cream of the hair care compositions of the present invention, as defined by one or more of the properties of viscosity, firmness, and work of penetration, and the desired pH (preferably, pH5).

In an embodiment of the present invention, the polymer and thickener components are partially neutralized.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the polymer and thickener components are totally neutralized.

Suitable neutralizing water soluble bases may be chosen from organic amines, hydroxide base compounds, alkali and alkaline earth metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof.

Organic amines may be selected from amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (or aminomethyl propanol), ethylamines, ethyleneamines, alkanolamines, cyclic amines and other cyclic compounds, saturated or unsaturated, having one or more nitrogen atoms within the ring, and mixtures thereof.

The organic amines may be chosen from the ones having a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, such as less than 1 0 or such as less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.

Organic amines may be chosen from organic amines comprising one or two primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functions, and at least one linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing at least one hydroxyl radical.

Organic amines may also be chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or trialkanolarmines, comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine, pyridine, piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and derivatives thereof.

Among the compounds of the alkanolamine type that may be mentioned include but not limited to: ethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 - propanol, tromethamine, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

Other examples include but are not limited to: 1 ,3-diaminopropane, 1 ,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and spermidine.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino acids, amino acid peptides, and compounds comprising a guanidine function.

In some, embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from alkylamines, for example, dimethylstearylamine, and dirmethyl/tallowamine.

The hydroxide base compounds chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, organic hydroxides, and mixtures thereof. Suitable examples are ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, caesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide, aluminium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

The alkali and alkaline earth metal carbonates and phosphates that may be used are, for example, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, calcium carbonate, and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

According to at least one embodiment, neutralizing water soluble base is chosen from at least one organic amine such as at least one alkanolamine. Preferred alkanolamines are 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (aminomethyl propanol or AMP), ethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof. An even more particularly preferred alkanolamine is ethanolamine.

The neutralizing water soluble base of the present invention is preferably chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanol, aminomethyl propanediol, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the neutralizing water soluble base is triethanolamine.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the neutralizing water soluble base is monoethanolamine.

In certain embodiments, the neutralizing water soluble base is used in an amount such that the pH of the hair care composition of the invention is from about pH 3 to less than about 7, preferably from pH 3.5 to about 6.5, more preferably from pH 4 to about 6.5 and even more preferably of about pH 5.

All numbers expressing pH values are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about" which encompasses up to +/- 0.2. For example, a pH value of about 7 refers to 7 +/- 0.2.

The neutralizing water soluble base of the present invention may be employed in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 3% by weight, or such as from about 0.1 % to about 2.5% by weight, or such as from about 0.15% to about 2% by weight, or such from about 0.2% to about 1 % by weight, or such as from about 0.25% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair care composition of the present invention, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

AUXILIARY INGREDIENTS

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise any auxiliary ingredient usually used in the field under consideration, selected, for example, from conditioning agents, non-cellulosic thickening polymers, non-polymeric thickening agents, nonionic surfactants, humectants, shine agents, fillers, colorants, pigments, chelating agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, stabilizers, antioxidants, and mixtures thereof.

It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not thereby affected. OTHER INGREDIENTS

Hair care compositions of the present invention can comprise a carrier, or a mixture of carriers, which are suitable for application to the hair. The carriers are present from about 0.5% to about 99.5%, preferably from about 5.0% to about 99.5%, more preferably from about 10% to about 98% of the composition. As used herein, the expression "suitable for application to the hair" means that the carrier does not damage or negatively affect the aesthetics of hair or cause irritation to the underlying skin.

Carriers suitable for use with hair care compositions of the present invention include, for example, those commonly used in oil-in-water emulsions. The carriers used herein include a wide range of components conventionally used in hair care compositions.

GEL-CREAM TEXTURE

The compositions of the present invention are in the form of gel-cream or an oil-in-water emulsion of high viscosity.

As used herein, the term "gel-cream" means a light-weight cream or emulsion composition (not a heavy or thick cream) having a soft flan-like consistency (and the shininess of a gel) but without the stickiness of a gel. The term "gel-cream" can also mean a light-weight cream or emulsion composition (not a heavy or thick cream) as characterized by the viscosity, firmness and work of penetration properties as described herein for the gel-cream compositions of the present invention (see Figure 1 ).

As used herein, the term "firmness" means the resistance or resilience of a product or composition to an external penetration force.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the hair care composition of the present invention has a viscosity of from about 3,560 mPa.s to about 1 1 ,770 mPa.s, such as from about 4,730 mPa.s to about 1 0,600 mPa.s, or such as from about 5,900-9,425 mPa.s, as measured by a Rheomat RM200® by Lamy Rheology instruments, viscometer spindle #4, 30s, 200 rpm, at 25°C. Preferably, the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of less than about 8,500 mPa.s.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of from about 6,000 mPa.s to about 8,500 mPa.s.

In preferred embodiments, the hair care composition of the present invention has a firmness of from about 30 g to about 80 g, such as from about 35 g to about 70 g, or such as from about 40 g to about 65 g, or such as from about 40 g to about 60 g, or such as from about 40 g to about 50 g, as measured by a TA.XTplus® Texture analyzer, of Stable Micro Systems, by compression force with the probe P/25L; 25mm dia cylinder lap Perspex and 10mm/sec as test speed at 25 ^Q C and penetrating 10 mm into the sample and considering the sample recipient being a plastic jar having the up side diameter measuring 7.5 cm and 3.8 cm of height. Preferably, the composition of the present invention has a minimum firmness of about 45g.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention has a firmness of from about 45 g to about 65 g.

In preferred embodiments, the hair care composition of the present invention has a work of penetration of from about 200 g.sec to about 400 g.sec, such as from about 250 g.sec to about 350 g.sec, or such as from about 280 g.sec to about 31 0 g.sec, as measured by a TA.XTplus® Texture analyzer, of Stable Micro Systems, by compression force with the probe P/25L; 25mm dia cylinder lap Perspex and 10mm/sec as test speed at 25 ^S C and penetrating 10 mm into the sample considering the sample recipient being a plastic jar having the up side diameter measuring 7.5 cm and 3.8 cm of height. Preferably, the composition of the present invention has a work of penetration starting at 280 g.sec.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention has a work of penetration of from about 280 g.sec to about 310 g.sec.

All numbers expressing technical parameters values are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about" which encompasses up to +/- 0.2. For example, a viscosity value of about 8,500 mPa.s refers to 8,500 +/- 0.2 mPa.s.

Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope as a result.

EXAMPLES

The following Examples are intended to be non-restrictive and explanatory only, with the scope of the invention being defined by the claims.

The ingredient amounts in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition/formula. EXAMPLE 1 : COMPOSITIONS

HAIR COMPOSITIONS

The hair care compositions above were prepared as follows:

Process 1 :

In a main tank:

(1 ) Add 35% to 40% of water and heat to 65°C;

(2) Add thickener and emulsifying agent and disperse well, until total hydration of thickener and emulsifying agent;

(3) Add neutralizing agent and mix well until homogeneity (gel formation with high viscosity) is achieved;

(4) At 65°C add fatty alcohol, oil and preservatives and mix until to be homogeneous;

(5) Emulsion for 10 minutes;

(6) Add 8% of water to start the cooling;

(7) At 40°C - 45°C add fragrance;

(8) Add the remaining water.

Alternatively, the hair care compositions of the present invention were prepared as follows:

Process 2:

In a main tank:

(1 ) Add 100% of water and heat to 65°C;

(2) Add thickener and emulsifying agent and disperse well, until total hydration of thickener and emulsifying agent;

(3) Add neutralizer and mix well until homogeneity (gel formation with high viscosity) is achieved;

(4) At 65°C add fatty alcohol, oil and preservatives and mix until to be homogeneous;

(5) Emulsion for 10 minutes;

(6) Start cooling;

(7) At 40°C-45°C add fragrance;

(8) Add the remaining water.

TABLE 2: COMPARATIVE HAIR CARE COMPOSITIONS

Formula A Formula H

Cosmetic type Ingredients/INCI names (invention) (comparative)

% by weight % by weight

Neutralizing agent Triethanolamine 0.5 - Formula A Formula H

Cosmetic type Ingredients/INCI names (invention) (comparative)

% by weight % by weight

Pentaerylthrityl tetra-di-T-butyl

Antioxidant 0.1 - hydroxyhydrocinnamate

pH adjuster Citric acid - 0.05

Oil Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil ³ 1 -

Oil Mineral oil - 1 .5

Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium

Polymer - 1

chloride

Thickener Carbomer ^b 0.75 -

Acrylates/C-io-30 alkyl acrylate

Emulsifying polymer 0.2 - crosspolymer

Preservative Chlorhexidine dihydrochloride - 0.02

Preservative Phenoxyethanol 0.7 -

Preservative Sodium benzoate - 0.2

Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-6

Silicon - 0.5

(and) Cetrimonium chloride

Fatty alcohol Cetearyl alcohol ^d 1 4.2

Surfactant Cetrimonium chloride - 1 .5

Surfactant Behentrimonium chloride - 0.6

Co-preservative Caprylyl glycol 0.35 -

Solvent Glycerin - 0.5

Fragrance Fragrance 0.8 0.8

Solvent Water Qs 100 Qs 1 00

Presentation Gel-cream Cream pH 5 4.5

Viscosity (mPa.s) 5,900-8,250 845-1 ,270

Firmness (g) 45.47 1 3.43

Work of penetration (g.sec) 306.80 91 .30

The comparative composition (Formula H) above was prepared in a similar manner as the inventive composition.

The viscosities of the compositions above were measured using the RM200 Rheomat® by Lamy Rheology instruments, viscometer spindle #4, 30s, 200 rpm, at 25°C.

A viscosity measurement of about 2,900 mPa.s or less generally corresponds to a texture and consistency of a gel or a cream (such as a hair conditioner or a hair masque) and a viscosity measurement of about 2,900 to 3,500 mPa.s generally corresponds to a texture and viscosity of a paste or balm composition.

Compared to a cream composition or to compositions that are very thick, the gel-cream texture of the compositions of the present invention was much more desirable for ease of application of the composition into the hair, having improved spreadability and a very light feel.

EXAMPLE 2 - TREATMENT WITH HAIR CARE COMPOSITIONS

These studies were conducted on curly or wavy virgin hair (not chemically treated) to assess the performance of the hair care composition of the present invention over a comparative composition.

The performance assessment was carried out as follows:

(1 ) Wash hair with a cleansing shampoo;

(2) Detangle hair by combing 5 times;

(3) Allow to dry for 5 min on paper towel;

(4) On a rigid and smooth surface, apply the product on damp hair (0.1 5 g of product per each gram of hair);

(5) Spread the product along the hair using a hair dye brush;

(6) Hang the swatches under room conditions;

(7) Analyze 24h after application, run the fingers through the hair; and

(8) Analyze after 24h.

TABLE 3: RESULTS OF TESTS ON HAIR SWATCH

Observations compared to

Test composition

control

Gel-cream Formula A Easy to apply; good spreadability

(invention) and adherence to the hair; very

on swatch good frizz and volume reduction,

and curl definition.

Cream Formula H Hair with frizz and medium

(comparative) volume, rough feel of the hair,

on swatch and little curl definition The gel-cream hair care composition of the present invention (Formula A) shows better volume and frizz control, under room conditions, than the comparative composition (Formula H) and non-treated swatch (Figure 2). Moreover, the treatment with hair care compositions of the present invention result in swatches having more discipline and curl definition.

It is to be understood that the foregoing describes preferred embodiments of the invention and that modifications may be made therein without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention as set forth in the claims.