NATURAL FIBRES, PLASTIC TO THE TOUCH, GLOSSY AND SCENTED

The present invention relates to a method for creating a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, which is plastic to the touch, has glossy appearance and is scented.

In the current state of the art, methods are known for manufacturing a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprising a cupro (Bemberg™) warp, whose commercial name is Bemberg™, and a cotton weave with multiple uses.

In the current state of the art, methods are known for manufacturing woven fabrics with natural fibres, natural and synthetic fibres or synthetic fibres plastic to the touch, glossy and scented to make damask woven fabrics typical of African culture and known as "bazin" .

The object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a woven fabric of "bazin"-type with artificial and natural fibres which is plastic to the touch, has glossy appearance and is scented, enriching the known technique and creating a more three- dimensional, breathable, shimmering and comfortable fabric .

According to the invention, this object is achieved by a method according to claim 1.

Other characteristics are provided in the dependent claims .

The characteristics and the advantages of the present invention will become more evident from the following description, which is exemplary and not limiting .

A method for making a woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres manufactured by means of a loom and a Jacquard-type textile machine wherein said woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprises a cupro warp (Bemberg™) and a cotton weave.

Artificial cupro fibre (Bemberg™) provides a titration comprised between 22 and 300 dtex, preferably 84 dtex.

Natural cotton fibre comprises a titration which varies from NE 20 to NE 120, preferably NE 60/1.

Alternatively, it is possible to provide that the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres according to the present invention comprises a cotton warp and a cupro weave (Bemberg™) .

A warp beam of the loom counts a number of threads comprised between 5,000 and 20,000, preferably between 10, 000 and 15,000.

Consequently the number of warp threads per centimetre is comprised between 20 and 200, preferably between 50 and 100.

The number of picks in the frame per centimetre is comprised between 20 and 100, preferably 55.

The height of the fabric is comprised between 100 and 500 centimetres, preferably 160 cm.

The method for making said woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprises operations in a chronological order: a first weaving operation and a second ennobling operation.

The first weaving operation takes place by means of a frame which, in combination with a Jacquard-type textile machine, creates a loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres. This woven fabric is constituted by a multiplicity of weaves between warp and weft, so-called armatures, which in turn generate various types of designs.

The second ennobling operation comprises, in chronological order, a first purging stage, a second dyeing stage, a third drying stage and a fourth finishing stage .

The first purging stage provides to pass the loom- state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres into a machine commonly known as a purge. In this stage the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres passes for a multiplicity of times through tanks containing cleaning products which eliminate any residue present on the woven fabric, in preparation for the subsequent stages.

Specifically, the first purging stage comprises four sub-stages in chronological order.

A first sub-stage of the first purging stage provides that the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres have been immersed in a first tank containing a mixture of water at 60 °C and an emulsifying surfactant, preferably Foryl® 1000.

A second sub-stage of the first purging stage provides that the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the first sub-stage to pass from the first tank to a second tank containing a mixture of water at 90 °C and a dispersant, preferably DISPERSING 30.

A third sub-stage of the first purging stage provides that the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the second stage to pass from the second tank to a third tank containing a mixture of water at 90 °C and soda, preferably Solvay ™ soda.

A fourth sub-stage of the first purging stage provides that the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the third sub-stage to be subjected to passage through a vaporizer at 90 °C.

These four sub-stages are repeated in a continuous cycle until a woven fabric free of any textile auxiliaries (sizeing, spinning oils or other) is obtained, ready to be sent to the next dyeing stage.

The temperatures in the purging stage can be comprised within a range of ±10 °C compared to the value indicated .

The second dyeing stage of the loom-state woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the first purging phase comprises as an alternative: a) a dyeing sub-stage by means of reactive-class dyes

b) a dyeing sub-stage by means of direct-class dyes

c) a sub-stage comprising a first bleaching operation and a second dyeing operation by means of natural dyes which follows the bleaching operation in chronological order.

The third drying stage provides to pass the woven fabric coming out from the second dyeing stage into a machine, known as a Rameuse machine i.e. stenter, which has the purpose of making the woven fabric reach the desired height, ready to face the next passage.

The fourth finishing stage calls for subjecting the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the third drying stage to operations of pressing, resining and scenting. The pressing operation of the fourth finishing stage provides that pass the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres coming out from the third drying stage into a machine known as a calender.

The pressing operation of the fourth finishing stage is repeated for a number of cycles comprised between 1 and 3.

The passage in the calender provides that the pressure values of the crushing cylinders (of which it is equipped) to be comprised between 180 and 500 kg/cm ² , while it is provided that the temperatures of the same cylinders are between 100 and 400 °C.

The fourth finishing stage provides that the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres to also be subjected to a resining operation and a scenting operation .

The scenting operation provides to add fragrances, aromas or similar to the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres, such as fragrances of rose hips, black pepper, geranium and lemongrass.

The resining operation that occurs during the pressing of the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres in the calender, at the same time or at a different time than the scenting operation, is performed to make the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres plastic to the touch and having a glossy appearance .

In order to obtain plastic to the touch characteristic, the resining operation provides that the application of a mixture to the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprising glycosalic resin, preferably Fixapert Elf, a catalyst, preferably NKD, and an acrylic resin, preferably Berman ANI .

In order to obtain a glossy appearance, the resining operation provides that the application of a mixture to the woven fabric with artificial and natural fibres comprising acrylic resin, preferably CERALUBE SVN.

Alternatively it is possible to provide that said resining and/or said scenting operation takes place simultaneously with said cycle of pressing operations of the fourth finishing stage.

The invention thus conceived is susceptible to many modifications and variants, all falling within the same inventive concept; furthermore, all details can be replaced by equivalent technical elements. In practice, the materials used, as well as their dimensions, can be of any type according to the technical requirements.