PEARLESCENT CONDITIONING COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR PREPARING THE SAME

Technical Field

The present invention relates to the field of hair care. More specifically, the present invention relates to a pearlescent conditioning composition, and a method for preparing the same. Backgrou nd of the i nvention

It is well known that the disentanglement and the softness effect of the hair related products are widely favored by customers. It is also well-known that hair conditioner is recommended for the treatment of damaged hair which has been sensitized (i.e., damaged and/or embrittled) to varying degrees under the action of atmospheric agent or under the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such as dyeing, bleaching and/or permanent waving operations. When damaged, the hair is often difficult to disentangle, and lack softness. It is well known in the art to use hair conditioner in compositions for washing or caring for hair in order to facilitate disentangling of the hair and to achieve the soft and shiny effect.

For centuries, the softly shimmering luster of pearls has held a particular fascination for human beings. It is therefore no wonder that manufacturers of cosmetic preparations endeavor to give their products an attractive, valuable and rich appearance.

US 6,521 ,238 claims a cosmetic composition comprising at least one surfactant base, at least one fatty alcohol with 22 carbon atoms, and at least one additional ingredient chosen from opacifiers and pearlescent agents which are mainly chosen from either fatty dialkyl ether or thioether family. U.S. 4,777,039, contains a proportion of a straight-chain fatty alcohol with carbon atoms from 14 to 18, coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide (CMEA) and cationic compounds. However, it should be noted that there are some particular problems in the compositions of US 4,777,039, such as 1 ) produce such pearlescent conditioner only for those combinations of fatty alcohol and cationic compound in which the sum of the carbon atoms of backbone chain is required to be more than 29; 2) incompatible with conventional cosmetic ingredients for example, perfume, silicones, oil, or preservatives, without influencing the stability and homogeneity of pearlescence.

Conventional method to produce pearlescent hair shampoo is a method using pearlescent materials such as glycol monofatty acid ester, that are solid at room temperature. These materials are heated to above their melting points and added to the preparation of ingredients of the conditioner; upon cooling, a pearlescent luster appears in the resulting composition. However, this method can have disadvantages as the entire conditioning composition needs to be heated to a temperature corresponding to the melting temperature of the pearlescent material.

An alternative and widely-adopted method known for the shampoo preparation consists of incorporating organic pearlescent agents into a composition as a pre-crystallized organic pearlescent dispersion. This method is known to those skilled in the art as "cold pearlescent agent".

Although large numbers of pearlescent compositions and formulations are known from the prior art, it is often difficult to obtain a pearlescent conditioner with a pearlescent effect stable over the time while keeping good conditioning properties. In this context there exists a need for new conditioner with pearlescent effect widely favored by customers for washing and caring for keratin substances such as the hair in order to make it soft, shiny and supple. Another need is also to easily obtain a pearlescent effect which is at the same time stable over the time. There is also a need for a simplified method to prepare such conditioner under lower temperature.

Sum mary of the i nvention The objective of the current invention is to provide a pearlescent conditioning composition and a method for preparing said pearlescent conditioning composition.

In one aspect, the present invention provides a pearlescent conditioning composition comprising:

a) at least one fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms;

b) at least one fatty amide;

c) at least one alkylpolyglycoside; and

d) at least one conditioning agent.

More particularly, the present invention provides a pearlescent conditioning composition further comprising at least one additional cosmetic ingredient. In another aspect, the present invention provides a method of preparation of a pearlescent conditioning composition, comprising the steps of:

a) mixing at least one fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms, at least one fatty amide, at least one alkylpolyglycoside with water, at a temperature higher than 50 °C,

b) cooling down the mixture obtained from a) to at least 30°C,

c) optionally leaving the mixture obtained from b) at least 5 hours, and d) mixing the mixture obtained from b) or c) with at least a first conditioning agent at a temperature lower than 30 °C.

More particularly, the present invention provides a method of preparation of a pearlescent conditioning composition, further comprising the step e) of mixing the mixture obtained from step d) with at least one additional cosmetic ingredient.

In another aspect, at least one second conditioning agent is mixed in step a).

Brief Description of the Drawings

Fig. 1 a shows the photo of pearlescent conditioner of example 1 , exhibiting apparent crystals under microscope. Fig. 1 b shows the photo of pearlescent conditioner of comparative conditional example 1 , exhibiting no crystal under microscope.

Detailed Description of the Present Invention Other benefits of the present invention will become apparent to the persons skilled in the art after reading the description and the examples as follows.

Fatty alcohol The term "fatty alcohol" used herein is intended to mean R-OH (formula (I)), in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 22 to 40 and preferably from 22 to 30 carbon atoms; R preferably denotes a C ₂ 2-C ₄₀ and preferably C ₂ 2-C ₂₄ alkyl or a C ₂ 2-C ₄₀ and preferably 022-0 ₂₄ alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and especially with one or two hydroxyl groups. In the composition of the invention, the fatty alcohol contains at least one fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms. An example of such a fatty alcohol is behenyl alcohol or isobehenyl alcohol. In a specific embodiment, the composition of the invention can contain a mixture of fatty alcohols. In that case, the fatty alcohols other than the one with the alkyl chain having at least 22 carbon atoms may contain from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 18-22 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty alcohol other than behenyl alcohol that can be present in the composition are for example cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

When the composition contains a mixture of fatty alcohols, the fatty alcohol with a fatty chain having at least 22 carbon atoms represents at least 50 % by weight of the total weight of all the fatty alcohol in the composition, more particularly at least 70% by weight.

As an example of fatty alcohols useful in the composition of the invention as in the case of the use of the commercial product, Nafol 1822 C from Condea, can be cited. Nafol 1822 C is referenced as behenyl alcohol in the Seventh Edition of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Volume 1 , page 123 and is defined to be a mixture of fatty alcohols containing chiefly n-docosanol, a C ₂₂ alcohol. Another commercial product that can be used in the composition of the invention is Lannet 22 from COGNIS (BASF) that contains behenyl alcohol. Another representative mixture of fatty alcohols is the product sold under the name Nafol 2298 by the company Condea, which contains 98% C22 alcohol.

When a mixture of fatty alcohols is used, according to one embodiment, Ci ₆ and C ₂₄ fatty alcohols each represent less than 2% by weight, and the Ci ₈ fatty alcohols represent less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the alcohol mixture. Of course, as defined above, with respect to the mixtures of fatty alcohols, the C ₂₂ alcohol is at least 50% of the mixture of alcohols.

In the scope of the invention, the amount of the fatty alcohol having a fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms can vary largely. According to a preferred embodiment, the C ₂₂ fatty alcohol is present in amount ranging from 3% to 20% by weight of total pearlescent conditioning composition.

In particular, said at least one fatty alcohol containing at least 22 carbon atoms is present in amount ranging from 3% to 10%, more preferably 3% to 5% by weight of total pearlescent conditioning composition.

Fatty amide The term "fatty amide" used herein is intended to mean an amide obtained from a fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms. The fatty amide can be a fatty acid monoalkanol amide or fatty acid dialkanol amide of formula (II):

R-1CONHR2R3

wherein Ri is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 7 to 26 carbon atoms, and R ₂ is hydrogen, or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol group, whereas R ₃ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol group. Preferably, Ri is a fatty acid group having 12 to 22, even more preferably 1 6 to 18 carbon atoms, R ₂ is hydrogen, or an alkanol group, and R ₃ is a alkanol group. More preferably, R ₂ is hydrogen, or an alkyl group having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R ₃ is an alkyl group having 2 to 5 carbon atoms. Even more preferably, R ₂ is hydrogen, an ethanol group, a propanol group, or a isopropanol group; R ₃ is an a ethanol group, a propanol group, or a isopropanol group.

More specific examples include lauric acid monoethanolamide, lauric acid diethanolamide, lauric acid monopropanolamide, lauric acid monoisopropanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, myristic acid diethanolamide, palmitic acid monoethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (stearamide MEA), oleic acid monoethanolamide, oleic acid diethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, coconut oil fatty acid monoethanolamide (cocamide MEA), coconut oil fatty acid monopropanolamide, coconut oil fatty acid monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, palm vegetable oil fatty acid monoethanolamide, or a combination thereof. Among them, coconut oil fatty acid monoethanolamide is preferable. Such coconut oil fatty acid monoethanolamide (cocamide MEA) are, in particular, the products sold, as mentioned above, under the name COMPERLAN 100 by the company COGNIS (BASF).

In the composition of the invention, the fatty amide is present in amount ranging from 3% to 15% by weight of total pearlescent conditioning composition. More particularly, said at least one fatty amide is present in amount ranging from 3% to 10%, more preferably 3% to 5% by weight of total pearlescent conditioning composition. Alkylpolyglycoside

The alkylpolyglycoside may be represented more particularly by the following general formula (III):

in which R represents a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical comprising from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl radical in which the alkyl is the linear or branched alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, R ₅ represents an alkylene radical comprising from about 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15. Preferred alkylpolyglycosides according to the present invention are compounds of formula (III) in which R more particularly denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly equal to 0, and G may denote glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v in formula, may range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferentially from 1 .1 to 1 .5. The glycoside bonds between the sugar units are of 1 -6 or 1 -4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type.

Compounds of formula (III) are especially represented by the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Triton CG 1 10 (or Oramix CG 1 10) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70 or those sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK. It is also possible to use, for example, the C8/C1 6 alkyl 1 ,4-polyglucoside as an aqueous 53% solution sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

The alkylpolyglycosides are generally present in amounts ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10 % by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 1 .5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Conditioni ng agent

The conditioning agent of the current invention refers to ingredients that enhance the appearance and feel of hair, by increasing hair body, suppleness, or sheen, or by improving the texture of hair that has been damaged physically or by chemical treatment. The conventional hair conditioning agents are well adapted to the current invention. Such conditioning agents include non-silicone cationic surfactants, non-silicone cationic polymers, silicones, fatty esters, and other ingredients which are known in the art as having desirable hair conditioning properties.

Non-silicone surfactants

The term "non-silicone cationic surfactant" means a surfactant having no silicone atoms in its structure and positively charged when it is contained in the composition of the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition of the invention. Non-silicone surfactants may be chosen from:

A) The quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV) below:

in which X-i ^" is an anion selected from the group of the halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or (C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl sulfates, more particularly methyl sulfate, phosphates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, anions derived from organic acid, such as acetate or lactate,

and

a) The radicals R ₆ to R ₈ , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can contain heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens. The aliphatic radicals are for example selected from alkyl, alkoxy, and alkylamide radicals,

R ₉ denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

The non-silicone cationic surfactant is preferably a behenyltri-ammonium salt, for example, behenyltri-ammonium chloride, or cetrimonium salt, for example, cetrimonium chloride. b) The radicals R ₆ and R ₇ , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can contain heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens. The aliphatic radicals are for example selected from alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamide, and hydroxyalkyl radicals, containing approximately from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R ₈ and R ₉ , which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, said radical comprising at least one ester or amide function.

R ₈ and R ₉ are selected in particular from (Ci ₂ -C ₂₂ )alkyl-amido(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl and (Ci ₂ -C ₂₂ )alkyl acetate radicals; The non-silicone cationic surfactant is preferably a stearamido- propyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt (for example, chloride).

B) The quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as, for example, that of formula (V) below: in which R ₀ represents an alkyi or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R-n represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC ₄ alkyi radical or an alkyi or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R-12 represents a CrC ₄ alkyi radical, R-13 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC ₄ alkyi radical, X ₂ ^" is an anion selected from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyi sulfates, alkyi- or alkylaryl-sulfonates. Preferably R1 ₀ and Rn denote a mixture of alkyi or alkenyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, Ri ₂ denotes methyl, R 3 denotes hydrogen. Such a product is, for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "REWOQUAT" W 75, W90, W75PG, and W75HPG by the company WITCO, or Quaternium-87 under the name "VARISOFT W 575 PG N" sold by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.

C) The quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VI):

in which R-| ₄ denotes an aliphatic radical containing approximately from 1 6 to 30 carbon atoms, R15, R 6, R17, R s, and R19, identical or different, are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X ₃ ^" is an anion selected from the group of the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, and methyl sulfates. Quaternary diammonium salts of this kind include in particular propanetallowdiammonium dichloride.

D) The quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, of formula (VII) below:

o (C _r H _2r O) _z — R ₂₃

R 22 -C (OC _n H _2n ) _y N (C _p H _2p O) _x R _: 21

R 20 (VII) in which:

R ₂ o is selected from CrC ₆ alkyl radicals and CrC ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

R21 is selected from: o - the radical ^R 2 ^c

- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon radicals R ₂₅ ,

- the hydrogen atom,

R ₂₃ is selected from:

o - the radical ^R 26 ^c

- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated CrC ₆ hydrocarbon radicals R ₂₇ ,

- the hydrogen atom,

R22, R24, and R ₂₆ , identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₇ -C ₂ i hydrocarbon radicals; n, p, and r, identical or different, are integers with a value of from 2 to 6; y is an integer with a value of from 1 to 10;

x and z, identical or different, are integers with a value of from 0 to 10; X ₄ ^" is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15 in value, that when x is 0 then R ₂ i denotes R25, and when z is 0 then R ₂ 3 denotes R ₂ 7- mention is made more particularly of the ammonium salts of formula (VII), in which:

R ₂₀ denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,

x and y are equal to 1 ;

z is equal to 0 or 1 ;

n, p, and r equal to 2;

R ₂ 1 is selected from:

o

- the radical ^R 2 ^c

- methyl, ethyl or Ci ₄ -C ₂ 2 hydrocarbon radicals

- the hydrogen atom;

- R22, R24 and R ₂ 6, identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C ₂ 1 hydrocarbon radicals;

R23 is selected from:

o the radical ^K 26

- the hydrogen atom;

Compounds of this kind are sold for example under the names DEHYQUART by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, and REWOQUAT WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. Among the quaternary ammonium salts preference is given to behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or else the stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL 70 by the company VAN DYK, Quaternium-27 or Quaternium-83, which are sold by the company WITCO.

Preferred examples of non-silicone cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition of the invention include cetyl triammonium, behenyl triammonium, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, distearoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, methyl (C9-C19)alkyl, (C10-C20)alkyl amidoethylimidazolium, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine salts, a salt of stearamidopropyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the cationic surfactant is the chloride and bromide salts of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium.

Among them, cetrimonium chloride is preferable. Such cetrimonium chloride is, in particular, the products sold, as mentioned above, under the name DEHYQUART A OR by the company COGNIS (BASF).

In the present invention, the non-silicone cationic surfactant range from1 % to 5% by weight of total weight of the pearlescent conditioning composition, preferably from 2% to 3% by weight. Non-silicone cationic polymers

The term "non-silicone cationic polymer" means a polymer having no silicon atoms in its structure, charged positively when it is contained in the composition of the invention. This polymer may carry one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition of the invention. The non-silicone cationic polymer or polymers that may be used as conditioning agents of the present invention are preferably selected from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary, and/or quaternary groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly bonded thereto, and having a molecular weight (MW) in the range 500 to approximately 5,000,000, preferably in the range 1000 to 3,000,000.

When the conditioning agent is a non-silicone cationic polymer, it is preferably selected from those containing motifs comprising primary, secondary, tertiary, and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent bonded directly thereto.

More particular examples of non-silicone cationic polymers that may be mentioned are polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide, and quaternary polyammonium type. They are described, for example, in French patents numbers 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.

Some of these polymers that may be mentioned are:

(1 ) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides Thus, copolymers of family (1 ) that may be mentioned include:

• copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide such as that sold under the trade name HERCOFLOC by the supplier HERCULES;

• copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium chloride described, for example, in patent application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the trade name BINA QUAT P 100 by the supplier CIBA GEIGY;

• the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium methosulfate sold under the trade name RETEN by the supplier

HERCULES;

•quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone /dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers such as the products sold under the trade name "GAFQUAT" by the supplier ISP such as, for example, "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755", or the products designated as "COPOLYMER 845, 958, and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573;

• dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate /vinylcaprolactam /vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the trade name GAFFIX VC 713 by the supplier ISP;

• vinylpyrrolidone /methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers, in particular as sold under the trade name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP.

· and vinylpyrrolidone /quaternized dimethylamino propyl methacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the trade name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the supplier ISP; and

•cross-linked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C1 -C4)alkyl (C1 -C4)trialkyl ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by cross-linking with a compound containing an olefinically unsaturated bond, in particular methylene bis-acrylamide. More particularly, an acrylamide /methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride cross-linked polymer (20/80 by weight) may be used in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the supplier CIBA. It is also possible to use a cross-linked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride, for example in dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are provided under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the supplier CIBA;

(2) polymers constituted by piperazinyl motifs and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or aromatic or heterocyclic cycles as well as the oxidation and/or quaternization products of said polymers. Such polymers are in particular described in French patents 2 1 62 025 and 2 280 361 ;

(3) polyaminoamides that are soluble in water prepared, in particular, by polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be cross-linked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-un saturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound that is reactive towards a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the cross-linking agent is used in proportions of 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they may be quaternized. Such polymers are in particular described in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508;

(4) derivatives of polyaminoamides resulting from condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with functional agents. Examples that may be mentioned are adipic acid-dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably designates methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 583 363; More particular examples of these derivatives that may be mentioned are adipic acid /dimethylamino-hydroxypropyl /diethylene triamine polymers provided under the trade name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by the supplier Sandoz.

(5) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is in the range 0.8: 1 to 1 .4; the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorhydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorhydrin to the second amine group of the polyaminoamide in the range 0.5:1 to 1 .8:1 . Such polymers are described in particular in American patents US 3 227 615 and US 2 961 347;

Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the trade name "Hercosett 57" by the supplier Hercules Inc. or under the trade name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101 " by the supplier Hercules for an adipic acid /epoxypropyl /diethylene-triamine copolymer.

(6) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers These polymers are in particular described in French patent 2 080 759 and in its certificate of addition 2 190 406;

More particular examples of polymers as defined above that may be mentioned are the dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the trade name "Merquat 100" by the supplier NALCO (and its homologs with low mass average molecular weights) and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the trade name "MERQUAT 550".

(7) the quaternary diammonium polymer described in particular in French patents 2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271 , 2 336 434, and 2 413 907, and in US patents Nos. 2 273 780, 2 375 853, 2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462, 2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432, 3 929 990, 3 966 904, 4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653, 4 026 945, and 4 027 020.

More particularly, polymers constituted by recurring motifs with the following formula may be used:

f¾8 R30

+

-N(CH ₂ ) _r -N- "(CH ₂ ) _S

R. 29 R 31 (VIII)

in which R ₂ s, R29, R30 and R31 , which may be identical or different, designate an alkyl or hydroxyalkyi radical containing approximately 1 to 4 carbon atoms, r and s are integers in the range approximately 2 to 20 and, X ₅ ^" is an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid.

A particularly preferred compound with formula (VIII) is that in which R ₂ s, R29, R ₃ o and R31 , represent a methyl radical and r = 3, s = 6 and X ₅ = CI, known as Hexadimethrine chloride using the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

(8) quaternary polyammonium polymers described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324. Examples of the above that may be mentioned include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® AD1 ", "Mirapol® AZ1 " and "Mirapol® 175" provided by the supplier Miranol;

(9) Quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers such as the products provided under the trade names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550, and FC 370 by the supplier B.A.S.F, for example; (10) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums.

More particular examples of cationic polysaccharides that may be mentioned are derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with a hydrosoluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

Derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups have been described in French patent 1 492 597. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium hydroxyethylcellulose compounds that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a hydrosoluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in the patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyi celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl- celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium salt, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium salt, or dimethyl-diallylammonium salt.

According to a preferred embodiment, the non-silicone cationic polymer is polyguaternium-10. Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. As an example, guar gums modified by a salt (for example chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium may be used.

Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium motifs, condensates of polyamines and epichlorhydrin, quaternary polyureylenes, and chitin derivatives. Particular examples of cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are chemically modified polypeptides carrying quaternary ammonium groups at the chain end or grafted thereto. Their molecular mass may, for example, be from 1500 to 10,000, in particular from approximately 2000 to 5000. Particular examples of these compounds that may be mentioned are as follows: Preferably, these polypeptides are of vegetable origin. The following may in particular be mentioned:

• hydrolysates of wheat, soya, or rice protein modified by cocodimonium hydroxypropyl groups;

• hydrolysates of protein, soya, jojoba, oats, or rice wheat modified by hydroxypropyl trimonium groups;

· hydrolysates of wheat, soya, or jojoba protein modified by laurdimonium hydroxypropyl groups; and · hydrolysates of jojoba, soya, or rice protein modified by steardimonium hydroxypropyl groups.

Examples of these products that may be mentioned include the products provided by the supplier COGNIS under the trade name GLUADIN WQ, by the supplier CRODA under the trade names HYDROTRITICUM WQ PE or CROQUAT SOYA.

Preferred examples of non-silicone cationic polymers that could be used in the context of the present invention are cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sold under the trade names "MERQUAT 100", "MERQUAT 550" and "MERQUAT S" by the supplier NALCO, quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers and cationic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

Silicones

Non-limiting examples of silicones that may be used as conditioning agents of the present invention that may be mentioned are:

I. Volatile silicones:

These have a boiling point in the range 60°C to 260°C. This type of silicone includes:

(i) cyclic silicones containing 3 to 7 silicon atoms, and preferably 4 to 5.

It may, for example, be the octamethylcyclo-tetrasiloxane sold under the name

"VOLATILE SILICONE 7207®" by the supplier UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V2@" by the supplier RHONE POULENC, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158®" by the supplier UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V5@" by the supplier RHONE POULENC, and also their mixtures. Cyclopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane /methylalkylsiloxane type, such as "SILICONE VOLATILE FZ 3109®" sold by the supplier UNION CARBIDE, which is a dimethylsiloxane /methyloctylsiloxane cyclocopolymer, may also be mentioned;

(ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of 5x 1 0-6 m2/s [square meters per second] or less at 25 °C.

It may, for example, be the hexamethyldisiloxane sold under the trade name "SILBIONE 70041 V0,65@" by the supplier RHONE POULENC. This type of product is described in the article by TODD & BYERS, "Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics", Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , Jan 76, pp. 27-32.

II. Non-volatile silicones

These are principally constituted by polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes and organomodified polysiloxanes, and also their mixtures. They may be in the form of oils, gums or resins.

In accordance with the invention, all of the silicones may also be used in the form of emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions. Particularly preferred polyorganosiloxanes of the invention are:

• non-volatile silicones selected from the polydialkylsiloxane family with terminal trimethylsilyl groups, such as oils with a viscosity in the range 0.2 m2/s to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C, for example oils from the DC200 series from DOW CORNING, in particular that with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst, from the SILBIONE 70047 series, more particularly 70,047 V 500,000 oil provided by the supplier RHODIA CHIMIE, polydialkylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups such as dimethiconol or polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as SILBIONE 70641 V 200 oil provided by the supplier RHODIA CHIMIE; and · polysiloxanes with amine groups such as aminodimethicones or trimethylsilylamodimethicone.

The viscosities of the silicones may in particular be determined using the standard ASTM D445-97 (viscometry).

Preferrably, the silicones of the current invention are, for example, polyalkylsiloxanes, PEG-12 dimethicone, Divinyl dimethicone, cyclomethicones and aminofunctional silicones, and more specifically products available under the trade name ABILQUAT ex Goldschmidt, or under the trade name BELSIL ADM ex Warker.

Preferably these silicone materials are incorporated in the compositions as small droplets, preferably of droplet size smaller than 0.1 microns, more preferably smaller than 0.1 microns, most preferably smaller than 0.035 microns.

Fatty esters

When the conditioning agent is a fatty ester, it may either be an ester of a C ₈ -C ₃ o fatty acid and CrC ₃ o monoalcohols or polyols including esters of C ₈ -C ₃ o fatty acids and C ₈ -C ₃ o fatty alcohols, or an ester of a C-1 -C7 dibasic acid and a C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol.

Examples of such esters that may be mentioned are ethyl, isopropyl, 2-ethylhexyl and 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl, butyl, cetyl and 2-octyldecyl myristate, butyl and hexyl stearate, hexyl and 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, stearyl stearate, cetyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to mention natural or synthetic triglycerides, in particular vegetable oils such as rapeseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, argan oil, or grapeseed oil. The fatty esters of the current invention can be cetyl ester, which is available under the trade name CRODAMOL ex Croda.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains at least one conditioning agents, preferably selected from silicone or fatty ester.

The preferred level of the conditioning agent(s), if present, in compositions of the invention is up to 20% by weight, for example from 0.01 to 10%, more preferably from 0.1 to 5 % by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the current invention contains from 5% to 20% by weight of behenyl alcohol, from 5% to 15% by weight of fatty amide, preferably fatty acid monoethanolamide, from 5% to 15% by weight of alkyl polyglucoside, and from 0.1 % to 5% by weight of conditioning agent, preferably non-silicone cationic surfactant.

Cosmetic ingredients In addition to the above described components the compositions of the present invention may contain a wide variety of additional cosmetic ingredients. The preferred cosmetic ingredients are described in detail below.

The hair conditioning compositions of the invention may contain a suitable amount of a thickening agent such as a polymeric thickener, such as hydroxyethyl cellulose (available commercially as NATROSOL).

Other cosmetic ingredients which may be present in the hair conditioning compositions of the invention in addition to water include perfumes, colouring agents, anti-bacterial agents, anti-dandruff agents, preservatives, proteins, polymers, sunscreens, buffering agents, polyols, salt and other moisturising agents, and natural ingredients such as herb and other plant extracts.

The present invention also relates to a method of preparation of a pearlescent conditioning composition comprising steps of:

a) mixing at least one fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms, at least one fatty amide, at least one alkylpolyglycoside with water, at a temperature higher than 50 °C, preferably from 70 to 95 °C,

b) cooling down the mixture obtained from a) to at least 30°C, preferably less than 25 °C, more preferably from 15 to 25 °C,

c) optionally leaving the mixture obtained from b) at least 5 hours, preferably at least 10 hours, more preferably between 10 and 15 hours, d) mixing the mixture obtained from b) or c) with at least a first conditioning agent, preferably at a temperature less than 30 °C, more preferably between 15°C to 25 °C.

In step a), the mixing step is conducted till the homogeneous mixture is obtained by stirring the mixture for at least 30 minutes.

In some embodiments, preferred fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms is behenyl alcohol. Preferred fatty amide is cocamide MEA, cocamide MIPA, or a mixture thereof. Preferred alkylpolyglycoside is decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, or a mixture thereof.

In step d), the first conditioning agent comprises a conditioning agent having a melting point of less than 30°C. Preferred first conditioning agent comprises centrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-10, quaternium-87, aminodimethicone, dimethicone, divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, PEG-12 dimethicone, or a mixture thereof. According to one embodiment, at least one additional cosmetic ingredient is further added to the mixture at a temperature of lower than 30 °C, preferably from 15°C to 30 °C. According to some embodiments, preferred additional cosmetic ingredient is PEG-45M, hydroxyethyl cellulose, glycerin, sodium citrate, citric acid, henoxyethanol, chlorhexidine, dihydrochloride, or a mixture thereofln one embodiment, at least one second conditioning agent is mixed in step a). The second conditioning agent comprises conditioning agents having a melting point of higher than 30°C. According to some embodiments, preferred second conditioning agent is behentrimonium chloride, cetyl esters, or a mixture thereof.

Examples

Preparation of pearlescent conditioners

Example 1 : Preparation of pearlescent conditioner 1 10% behenyl alcohol is mixed with 10% cocamide MEA, 10% decyl glucoside and 70% of water, at a temperature of 70-95°C, stiring for 30 minutes; all the percentages are based on the total weight of the composition. The mixture is cooled down to room temperature. The mixture obtained from above mentioned steps is then mixed with 3% of centrimonium chloride under room temperature. The pearlescent conditioner 1 is shown in the table below.

Table 1 : Pearlescent conditioner 1

Example 2: Preparation of pearlescent conditioner 2 5% behenyl alcohol is mixed with 5% cocamide MEA, 5% decyl glucoside, 1 % cetyl ester, 1 % sodium citrate, and 70% of water, at a temperature of 70-95 °C, stiring for 30 minutes; all the percentages are based on the total weight of the composition. The mixture is cooled down to room temperature, and left overnight. The mixture is then mixed with 3% centrimonium chloride, 6% amodimethicone, and 1 % glycerin under room temperature. The pearlescent conditioner 2 is shown in the table below.

Table 2: Pearlescent conditioner 2

Example 3: Preparation of pearlescent conditioner 3

10% behenyl alcohol is mixed with 15% cocamide MEA, 10% decyl glucoside and 62% of water, at a temperature of 70-95°C, stiring for 30 minutes; all the percentages are based on the total weight of the composition. The mixture is cooled down to room temperature. The mixture obtained from above mentioned steps is then mixed with 3% of centrimonium chloride under room temperature. The pearlescent conditioner 3 is shown in the table below.

Table 3: Pearlescent conditioner 3

Example 4: Preparation of pearlescent conditioner 4

5% behenyl alcohol is mixed with 5% cocamide MEA, 10% decyl glucoside and 77% of water, at a temperature of 70-95°C, stiring for 30 minutes; all the percentages are based on the total weight of the composition. The mixture is cooled down to room temperature. The mixture obtained from above mentioned steps is then mixed with 3% of centrimonium chloride under room temperature. The pearlescent conditioner 4 is shown in the table below.

Table 4: Pearlescent conditioner 4

Example 5: Preparation of pearlescent conditioner 5

5% behenyl alcohol is mixed with 5% cocamide MEA, 5% coco glucoside, 1 % cetyl ester, 0.6% behentrimonium chloride, 1 % sodium citrate, and 76.7% of water, at a temperature of 70-95 °C, stiring for 30 minutes; all the percentages are based on the total weight of the composition. The mixture is cooled down to room temperature. The mixture obtained from above mentioned steps is then mixed with 2.5% of centrimonium chloride, 1 % hydroxyethyl cellulose, 2% dimethicone, and 0.2% PEG-45M, under room temperature. The pearlescent conditioner 5 is shown in the table below.

Table 5: Pearlescent conditioner 5

Hydroxyethyl cellulose 1 %

Water 76.7%

Total 100%

Example 6: Preparation of pearlescent conditioner 6

5% behenyl alcohol is mixed with 5% cocamide MEA, 5% decyl glucoside, 1 % cetyl ester, 0.2% sodium citrate, and 71 .17% of water, at a temperature of 70-95 °C, stiring for 30 minutes; all the percentages are based on the total weight of the composition. The mixture is cooled down to room temperature. The mixture obtained from above mentioned steps is then mixed with 2% of centrimonium chloride, 1 % amodimethicone, 3% divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, 0.2% PEG-45M, 1 .2% hydroxyethyl cellulose, 1 % polyquaternium-10, 0.8% quaternium-87, 3% glycerin, 0.1 % citric acid, 0.3% phenoxyethanol, and 0.03% chlorhexidine, under room temperature. The pearlescent conditioner 5 is shown in the table below.

Table 6: Pearlescent conditioner 6

Total 100%

Comparison tests

1 . Preparation of comparative conditioners

Four comparative conditioners are prepared using the same method as for preparing pearlescent conditioner 1 above. Comparing to the pearlescent conditioner 1 , the comparative conditioners are formulated as shown in the table below:

Table 7: Comparative conditioner 1 -4

2. Comparison tests The comparison tests are done on pearlescent effect and conditioning effect.

2.1 Pearlescent effect

To produce pearlescence, the incident light rays travel through the medium in which the produced crystals are suspended and the light from the particle layers is reflected back to the surface. The shape of the crystals determines the pearlescent effect. The thinner and more platelet the crystals are, the better pearlescent effect the conditioner exhibits. Optical micrographs are taken by Lecia DFC245 with 20X magnification to observe the crystals in the conditioners. Photos are taken using Sony digital camera Cybershot DSC-T300 to observe the pearlescent effect as shown in Fig, 1 a and 1 b.

Evaluation of the pearlescent effect is carried out by visually observing the products of the examples and is sorted by level 0 to 5, each representing: 5: very strong effect; 4: strong effect; 3: good effect; 2: poor effect; 1 : slight effect; 0: no effect.

The test result is shown as follows:

Table 8: Test result of pearlescent effect

As shown in Fig. 1 a and 1 b, and table 8, the pearlescent conditioning composition of the current invention exhibits a very strong pearlescent effect.

2.2 Conditioning effect When evaluating the conditioning effect, a dry-conditioning effect of a hair swatch is tested by 3 trained hair dressers. Apply the pearlescent

conditioners and the comparative conditioners on 1 gram of hair swatch respectively, then rinse off with water and blow-dry the hair swatch. Dry-conditioning effect is tested based on the smoothness and suppleness of the hair swatch. Both of which are sorted by 5 levels, from 0 to 5. Among which, 0 represents not smooth or supple at all, 1 represents rarely smooth or supple, 2 represents somewhat smooth or supple, 3 represents smooth or supple, 4 represents fairly smooth and supple, and 5 represents very smooth and supple.

The result is as follows:

Table 9: Test result of pearlescent effect

As shown in table 9, the current invention exhibits a much better smoothness effect, and at the same time, keeps a good suppleness effect.