Title of Invention

POWDER COSMETIC

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a powder cosmetic.

Background Art

[0002] A powder, especially a loose powder is a cosmetic used for the purpose of preventing stickiness on skin after foundation application, and for providing a smooth finish. Therefore from the standpoint of function, consumers anticipate products that adsorb sebum and sweat, that form films and that provide a good makeup effect, while in terms of sensation, that also have a smooth texture and a less powdery sensation.

[0003] Commercially available loose powders of the prior art often contain plate-shaped powders which are added to produce a fixing effect, as well as spherical powders comprising microplastics, such as PMMA or nylon, which are added to create a smooth texture and a less powdery sensation. However, from the standpoint of concerns regarding effects on the environment and human health, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), in January, 2019, proposed restrictions on the use of microplastics in products including cosmetics being marketed in the European Union (EU). With this proposal it has become more urgently desired to create microplastic-free loose powders having both a smooth texture and a less powdery sensation, while also maintaining their fixing effect.

[0004] An example of a microplastic-free powder cosmetic is proposed in JP2018-177640A, as a powder cosmetic comprising fluorine, treated talc, hydrophobically-treated silica, hydrophobically-treated micronized titanium oxide and a water-holding oil, but it has been less than satisfactory because it lacks a smooth texture.

Summary of Invention

Technical Problem

[0005] It is an object of the invention to provide a microplastic-free powder cosmetic with a less powdery sensation, that maintains a fixing effect while providing a smooth texture during application.

Solution to Problem

[0006] The present invention provides a powder cosmetic comprising (a) a powder component including a plate-shaped powder, (b) a nonionic surfactant that is solid at 25 °C and has a hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) of 4.5 or greater, (c) a liquid oil agent and (d) a polyol, but contains no microplastics. In the present description, the "(a) powder component including a plate-shaped powder" may also be simply hereunder referred to as "component (a)", and the other components may be referred to in a similar manner.

[0007] The content of the plate-shaped powder of the powder component in the powder cosmetic of the invention may be 70 mass% or greater based on the total mass of the powder component. This can result in a more excellent fixing effect and less of a powdery sensation. [0008] The plate-shaped powder in the powder cosmetic of the invention may be one or more selected from the group consisting of synthetic fluorphlogopite, mica and talc. If the plate-shaped powder is one of these components it will be possible to provide a smooth texture during application and less of a powdery sensation.

[0009] The HLB of the nonionic surfactant in the powder cosmetic of the invention may be 13.5 or lower. This can result in a more excellent fixing effect and can provide a smoother texture during application.

[0010] The nonionic surfactant in the powder cosmetic of the invention may include one or more selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, poly glyceryl- 10 stearate and polyglyceryl- 10 distearate. If the nonionic surfactant is one of these components, it will be possible to produce a more excellent fixing effect and provide a smoother texture during application.

[0011] The content of the nonionic surfactant in the powder cosmetic of the invention may be 1 to 10 mass% based on the total mass. This can result in a more excellent fixing effect and provide a smoother texture.

[0012] The content of the liquid oil agent in the powder cosmetic of the invention may be 1 to 10 mass% based on the total mass. This can result in a more excellent fixing effect and can provide a smoother texture during application, with less of a powdery sensation.

[0013] The powder component in the powder cosmetic of the invention may further include a spherical powder. If the powder component includes a spherical powder, it will be possible to provide a smoother texture during application.

Advantageous Effects of Invention

[0014] According to the invention it is possible to provide a microplastic-free powder cosmetic with a less powdery sensation, that maintains a fixing effect while providing a smooth texture during application. The particles of the powder cosmetic of the invention are also uniformly small, and excellent stability is exhibited. Since the powder cosmetic of the invention does not contain microplastics, it does not raise concerns regarding the environment or human health. Description of Embodiments

[0015] Preferred embodiments of the invention will now be described, with the understanding that these embodiments are in no way limitative on the invention.

[0016] The powder cosmetic of this embodiment comprises (a) a powder component including a plate-shaped powder.

[0017] As used herein, "plate-shaped powder" means powder having an aspect ratio of 8 or greater, and containing no microplastics. The aspect ratio referred to here is the value calculated by the formula: (mean particle size)/(mean thickness). Examples of plate-shaped powders include inorganic plate-shaped powders such as synthetic fluorphlogopite, mica, talc, sericite, kaolin, plate-shaped zinc oxide, plate-shaped titanium oxide, plate-shaped cerium oxide, barium sulfate, plate-shaped boron nitride, plate-shaped silica, plate-shaped hydroxyapatite, bentonite, montmorillonite and hectorite and the like; and organic plate-shaped powders such as lauroyllysin and the like. Among these, inorganic plate-shaped powders are preferred, and synthetic fluorphlogopite, mica and talc are more preferred to provide a smoother texture during application and to produce less of a powdery sensation. A single plate-shaped powder may be used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.

[0018] The powder component in the powder cosmetic of this embodiment may also comprise a spherical powder. As used herein, "spherical powder" means powder that is truly spherical, approximately spherical or spheroid, and containing no microplastics. Spherical powder may also have irregularities on the surface. The aspect ratio of the spherical powder is preferably 1.5 or lower, more preferably 1.2 or lower and even more preferably 1.1 or lower. The mean particle size of the spherical powder is not particularly restricted but is preferably 1 to 40 pm and more preferably 3 to 20 pm. Examples of spherical powders include spherical cellulose, spherical silica, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate and spherical starch. Spherical cellulose and spherical silica are preferred among these to allow an even smoother texture to be provided during application. One type of spherical powder may be used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.

[0019] The powder component in the powder cosmetic of this embodiment may also comprise other powders in addition to plate-shaped powder and spherical powder. Such powders include non plate-shaped titanium oxide, non plate-shaped iron oxide, non plate-shaped titanium oxidecoated mica, non plate-shaped rose bengal/black iron oxide-coated mica titanium, non plateshaped ferric ammonium ferrocyanide-coated mica titanium, non plate-shaped titanium oxidecoated borosilicate, non plate-shaped bismuth oxychloride, non plate-shaped zirconium oxide, non plate-shaped magnesium oxide aluminum oxide, non plate-shaped calcium sulfate, non plateshaped barium sulfate, non plate-shaped magnesium sulfate, non plate-shaped calcium carbonate, non plate-shaped magnesium carbonate, non plate-shaped iron oxide, non plate-shaped ultramarine blue, non plate-shaped chromium oxide, non plate-shaped chromium hydroxide, non plate-shaped carmine, non plate-shaped carbon black and non plate-shaped tar pigments (for example, FD&C Red No. 2, FD&C Red No. 3, FD&C Red No. 4, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 8, D&C Red No. 9, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Blue No. 2, D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Blue No. 6, D&C Brown No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Green No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Violet No. 2, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10 and D&C Yellow No. 11.). As used herein, "non plateshaped powder" means powder having an aspect ratio of less than 8, and containing no microplastics.

[0020] The content of component (a) may be 50 to 99 mass%, preferably 55 to 95 mass% and more preferably 60 to 90 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0021] The content of plate-shaped powder in component (a) is preferably 70 mass% or greater, more preferably 73 mass% or greater and even more preferably 75 mass% or greater, based on the total mass of component (a), since this will allow a more excellent fixing effect and less of a powdery sensation to be obtained.

[0022] The powder cosmetic of this embodiment contains no microplastics. As used herein, "microplastics" means powder containing synthetic plastics, with diameters of 5 mm or smaller. Examples of microplastics include nylon (such as nylon-6, nylon-12 or nylon-6/12), acrylic resins (such as polymethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer or ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer), silicone powders (such as dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone/silsesquioxane crosspolymer or dimethiconol/methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer, hydrocarbon-based polymers (such as polyethylene or polypropylene) and polyurethanes (such as HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer). A powder cosmetic containing microplastics provides disadvantageous effects on the environment and human health. Additionally a powder cosmetic containing microplastics has less fixing effect and less moisturizing effect than the powder cosmetic of this embodiment. [0023] The powder cosmetic of this embodiment also comprises (b) a nonionic surfactant that is solid at 25°C and has a hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) of 4.5 or greater. [0024] For the present purpose, the expression "nonionic surfactant that is solid at 25°C" does not include those that are semi-solid or have fluidity at 25°C. The melting point of “nonionic surfactant that is solid at 25°C” is preferably 30°C or higher, 35°C or higher, 40°C or higher or 50°C or higher, as measured by “Quasi Drug Raw Material Standards, Method 3”.

[0025] For this embodiment, the nonionic surfactant has an HLB of 4.5 or greater. The HLB is a value representing the affinity of a surfactant for water or oil, and here it means the HLB value at 25 °C, as defined by Griffin. The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem., 1954, 5:249-256. An HLB in the range of 0 to 20 has higher lipophilicity near 0 and higher hydrophilicity near 20. For this embodiment, the HLB of the nonionic surfactant may be 4.5 or greater and is preferably 5.0 or greater.

[0026] The upper limit for the HLB of the nonionic surfactant of this embodiment is not particularly restricted, but it is preferably 13.5 or lower and more preferably 13.0 or lower, since this will result in a more excellent fixing effect and can provide a smoother texture during application.

[0027] Examples for component (b) include polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylenesorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene hardened castor oil, hardened castor oil, polyoxyethylene sorbitol tetra fatty acid esters, glycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyglycerol fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglucosides, N- alkyldimethylamine oxide polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ethers, polyoxyethylene phytostearyl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene poly oxypropylene alkyl ethers and polyoxyethylene alkylphenyl ethers. More preferred among these are glyceryl stearate citrate (HLB: 12.0), polyglyceryl-2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), polyglyceryl- 10 stearate (HLB: 12.0), poly glyceryl- 10 distearate (HLB: 9.0), polyglyceryl-4 stearate (HLB: 6.0), Beheneth-5 (HLB: 7.0), poly glyceryl- 10 tristearate (HLB: 7.5), ceteth-2 (HLB: 8.0), beheneth-10 (HLB: 10.0), ceteth-10 (HLB: 13.5), steareth-2 (HLB: 8.0), PEG-10 stearate (HLB: 11.0) and PEG-4 stearate (HLB: 6.5), with glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, poly glyceryl- 10 stearate and polyglyceryl- 10 distearate being more preferred, since they can result in a more excellent fixing effect and provide a smoother texture during application. Component (b) may be a single type used alone, or two or more may be used in combination. [0028] The content of component (b) is preferably 1 to 10 mass%, more preferably 1 to 9 mass% and even more preferably 1 to 8 mass% based on the total mass, since this will allow a more excellent fixing effect and less of a powdery sensation to be obtained. [0029] The powder cosmetic of this embodiment may further contain one or more components selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants other than component (b) and higher alcohols of 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0030] Examples of nonionic surfactants other than component (b) include glyceryl stearate (HLB: 3.0), polyglyceryl- 10 pentastearate (HLB: 3.5), polyglyceryl-2 isostearate (HLB: 5.5), PEG-20 phytosterol (HLB: 15.5), PEG-30 phytosterol (HLB: 18.0), PEG-25 stearate (HLB: 15.0), PEG-2 stearate (HLB: 4.0), PEG-5 glyceryl stearate (HLB: 9.5), PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (HLB: 14.0) and PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil (HLB: 16.5). Glyceryl stearate is preferred among these. A nonionic surfactant other than component (b) that is used may be a single type alone, or two or more may be used in combination.

[0031] Examples of higher alcohols of 12 to 24 carbon atoms include straight-chain aliphatic mono-alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol; and branched chain aliphatic mono-alcohols such as lanolin alcohol, octyldodecanol and isostearyl alcohol. Among these, straight-chain aliphatic mono-alcohols are preferred, and stearyl alcohol is more preferred. A single higher alcohol of 12 to 24 carbon atoms may be used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.

[0032] A compound for use as component (b) may be, for example, Poly Aquol® 2W (product of Innovacos) which contains glyceryl stearate and stearyl alcohol, in addition to polyglyceryl-2 stearate as component (b).

[0033] The powder cosmetic of this embodiment comprises (c) a liquid oil agent.

[0034] As used herein, the term "liquid oil agent" refers to an oil agent that is liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and ordinary pressure (1 atm). The melting point of a liquid oil agent is preferably lower than 25°C and 1 atm, as measured by “Quasi Drug Raw Material Standards, Method 3”. Compounds for component (c) include hydrocarbon oils such as squalane, vegetable squalane, liquid paraffin, light liquid isoparaffin, straight-chain alkanes, isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, diisostearyl malate, tridecyl trimellitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, isotridecyl isononanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate , isostearyl isostearate and neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate; and silicone oils such as dimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone and phenyl trimethicone. Squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride and phenyl trimethicone are preferred among these to allow provision of a less powdery sensation.

Component (c) may be a single compound used alone, or two or more may be used in combination. [0035] The content of component (c) is preferably 1 to 10 mass%, more preferably 1 to 9 mass% and even more preferably 1 to 8 mass% based on the total mass, since this will result in a more excellent fixing effect, will provide a smoother texture during application, and will allow a less powdery sensation to be obtained.

[0036] The powder cosmetic of this embodiment comprises (d) a polyol.

[0037] Examples for component (d) include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3- propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol (1,2-pentanediol), 1 ,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, poly glycerol, ethylhexylglycerin, sorbitol, xylitol and mannitol. Component (d) may be a single one used alone, or two or more may be used in combination.

[0038] The content of component (d) may be 0.1 to 10 mass%, preferably 0.5 to 9 mass% and more preferably 0.5 to 8 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0039] The powder cosmetic of this embodiment may also comprise an oil agent other than component (c), i.e. an oil agent that is a paste or solid at ordinary temperature and ordinary pressure. If the powder cosmetic comprises an oil agent other than component (c) it will have an even more excellent moisturizing effect. The melting point of an oil agent other than component (c) is preferably 30 to 65°C, as measured by Quasi Drug Raw Material Standards, Method 3. Examples of oil agents other than component (c) include petrolatum, paraffins, dilinoleic acid diesters, polyhydric alcohol fatty acid esters such as phytostearyl oleate, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, lauroylglutamic acid diesters, amino acid phytosterols, hardened castor oil stearate and shea butter, polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester, hexaglycerin fatty acid esters, decaglycerin fatty acid esters, dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, diglyceryl adipate-mixed fatty acid esters, caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic triglyceride and stearyl dimethicone, any of which may be used alone or in combinations of two or more as necessary. Preferred among these, for an even more excellent moisturizing effect, are bis- behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, hydrogenated castor oil stearate, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexarosinate, dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate, jojoba ester and acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymer, with bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate and acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymer being more preferred. [0040] The content of an oil agent other than component (c) may be 0 to 10 mass%, preferably 0.1 to 7 mass% and more preferably 0.1 to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0041] The powder cosmetic of this embodiment may also contain, in addition to these components, pH regulators, chelating agents, antioxidants, antifading agents, antiseptic agents, active ingredients, stabilizers and perfumes, added as appropriate in order to impart various effects.

[0042] The powder cosmetic of this embodiment can be produced by the following steps, as an example.

1) The plate-shaped powder, spherical powder and other powder (component (a)) are mixed, and then combined with component (c) and stirred to obtain mixture A.

2) Component (b) is mixed with component (d) and stirred at a temperature of preferably 70°C or higher to obtain mixture B.

3) Mixture B and other components as necessary are added to mixture A and the resulting mixture is stirred.

4) The mixture obtained in 3) is passed through a sieve (for example, a 60 ~ 200 mesh sieve). [0043] Since the powder cosmetic this embodiment maintains its fixing effect while providing a smooth texture during application and having a less powdery sensation, it can be suitably used as a skin cosmetic, and is preferably used by application onto the skin (excluding the scalp), and more preferably onto the face, body and limbs. The powder cosmetic of the embodiment can be used as a foundation, concealer, loose powder, pressed powder or cosmetic base, for example, although it is preferably used as a loose powder.

Examples

[0044] The present invention will now be explained in specific detail through the following examples, with the understanding that the invention is not limited by the examples.

[0045] Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6

(1) Preparation of powder cosmetics

Powder cosmetics with different components and contents according to Table 1 and Table 2 were prepared by the following method.

After mixing the plate-shaped powder, spherical powder (if present) and other powder (component (a)), the liquid oil agent (c) (if present) was added and the mixture was thoroughly stirred to prepare mixture A.

The nonionic surfactant that is solid at 25°C and has an HLB of 4.5 or greater (b), and if necessary a nonionic surfactant other than component (b) and a higher alcohol, were mixed with the polyol (d), and the mixture was stirred at a temperature of 70°C or higher to prepare mixture B.

Mixture B was added to mixture A, and the resulting mixture was thoroughly stirred to obtain mixture C. The obtained mixture C was passed once through an 80 mesh sieve to obtain a powder cosmetic. The contents (units: mass%) of each of the materials were as shown in Table 1 and Table 2.

[0046] (2) Organoleptic evaluation

Each prepared powder cosmetic was evaluated for smooth texture during application, less powdery sensation and fixing effect, by a single -use test on skin by an evaluation panel of 10 cosmetic experts (25 to 55 years of age) of the organization to which the present inventors belong. Specifically, the 10 cosmetic experts applied each powder cosmetic onto the face using a powder puff, and smoothness of texture was confirmed based on whether the feel was smooth without sticking during application, low powdery sensation was confirmed based on whether the finish had no powder sensation (no dryness) after application, and the fixing effect was confirmed based on whether the cosmetic film had a persistent effect 8 hours after application, with each being evaluated on the following 6-level scale. Evaluations of A to C were judged to be excellent.

A: Excellent

B: Very good

C: Good

D: Poor

E: Very poor

F: Extremely poor

[0047] (3) Quality evaluation

For the above mentioned (1), samples where no residue was observed on an 80 mesh sieve when mixture C was passed once through the sieve were evaluated as "A", and those where residue was observed were evaluated as "F".

[0048] (4) Stability evaluation

Each powder cosmetic was filled into a transparent container and sealed with a cap, and then stored for 1 month at 45 °C. Afterwards, the outer appearance of each powder cosmetic was observed and those in which no change was observed or only slight change was observed were evaluated as "A", while those in which a clear change such as aggregation was observed were evaluated as "F".

[0049] [Table 1]

*1 : DERMOFEEL GSC (supplied by Evonik)

*2: NIKKOL DGMS (supplied by NIKKO CHEMICALS)

*3: NIKKOL Decaglyn 1 -SV (supplied by NIKKO CHEMICALS)

*4: NIKKOL Decaglyn 2-SV (supplied by NIKKO CHEMICALS)

*5: AMISOFT HS-11 (supplied by Ajinomoto)

*6: NIKKOL Decaglyn 1 -L (supplied by NIKKO CHEMICALS)

[0050] [Table 2]

*1 : DERMOFEEL GSC (supplied by Evonik)

*2: NIKKOL DGMS (supplied by NIKKO CHEMICALS)

*3: NIKKOL Decaglyn 1 -SV (supplied by NIKKO CHEMICALS)

*4: NIKKOL Decaglyn 2-SV (supplied by NIKKO CHEMICALS)

*5: AMISOFT HS-1 1 (supplied by Ajinomoto)

*6: NIKKOL Decaglyn 1 -L (supplied by NIKKO CHEMICALS)

[0051] Example 11: Loose Powder

Ingredients (Blending ratio (% by mass))

1. Synthetic fluorphlogopite (41.8)

2. Mica (10.0)

3. Talc (23.0)

4. Cellulose (10.0)

5. Silica (2.0)

6. Non plate-shaped titanium dioxide (1.0)

7. Non plate-shaped iron oxides (Red)) (0.07)

8. Non plate-shaped iron oxides (Yellow) (0.03)

9. Non plate-shaped pearl (mica and titanium dioxide) (0.1)

10. Glyceryl stearate citrate *1 (5.0)

11. Squalane (2.0)

12. Phenyl trimethicone (1.5)

13. Caprylic/capric triglyceride (1.0)

14. Acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymer *2 (0.5)

15. Pentylene glycol (0.5)

16. 1 ,2-Hexanediol (1.0)

17. Caprylyl glycol (0.5)

* 1 : DERMOFEEL GSC (supplied by Evonik)

*2: KP-561P (supplied by Shin-Etsu)

[0052] (Production method)

After mixing components 1 to 8, and adding the mixture of components 10 to 13 preliminarily prepared by being homogenized at 70°C or higher temperature, the mixture was thoroughly stirred to prepare mixture A. Components 14 to 17 were then mixed, component 9 was added, and the mixture was stirred at a temperature of 70°C or higher to prepare mixture B.

Mixture B was added to mixture A and the resulting mixture was thoroughly stirred and passed once through a 80 mesh sieve to obtain a loose powder for Example 11.

[0053] (Evaluation)

The loose powder of Example 11 was organoleptically evaluated for smooth texture, less powdery sensation and fixing effect by the same method as Example 1 , and an evaluation of "A" was given by all the evaluators. The loose powder of Example 11 was also evaluated for quality and stability by the same method as Example 1, and an evaluation of "A" was given by all the evaluators.