PREMIX CONTAINING A GUM MIXTURE OF KARAYA GUM AND ACACIA GUM

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

It is known to impart rheological properties to a cosmetic or dermatological composition by addition of texturants.

Most of the texturants currently used are synthetic compounds such as microplastics and synthetic polyacrylate gels (so-called carbomers) that are not natural and among other things responsible for waste water pollution.

There is growing concern that combined exposure to chemicals from different chemical industry that may have adverse effects on human health resulting in a growing desire for natural ingredients. Naturalness is a quality that is more and more sought after by consumers, particularly in the cosmetic and homecare domains.

Some texturants are refined from natural sources like plants and seaweeds, including polysaccharide gums and starches, while others are made by bacterial fermentation or the chemical modification of natural cellulose to produce a synthetic version of the natural product.

Among the texturing agent derived from natural sources, Xanthan gum is more and more used in cosmetics to replace synthetic thickeners. Xanthan gum is a microbial gum naturally produced by fermentation of Xanthomonas campestris. More than 11 ,000 new beauty and personal care products formulated with xanthan gum have been launched in 2020: 80% dedicated to skin care (face/neck, body), more than 2,000 dedicated to soaps, bath and hair gels, make-up, deodorants.

However, Xanthan gum is obtained on an industrial scale using bio-engineering processes and the issue of using genetically modified Xanthomonas campestris was raised.

An aim of the present invention is to provide an alternative to xanthan gum.

An aim of the present invention is to provide a premix comprising vegetal gums, wherein the premix present valuable multiple texturing and rheological advantages compared to xanthan gum and can then constitute an ultimate alternative as well as a significant way of improvement in cosmetics and homecare formulations.

Acacia and karaya gum mixtures allow to create a range of different gels and thickeners.

They present valuable advantages: they are cold soluble, efficient to bring texture and are also very stable on a wide range of pH and highly resistant to many physical and chemical factors.

Main advantages of vegetable gums are that they are 100% natural and vegetal, versatile and multifunctional: they are able to stabilize emulsions, to generate thick and nice silky textures in creams, stickiness and film forming in masks and scrubs, or create gels for shower, bath or hair products. They are also more and more used for the formulation of make-up. Additionally, they do not only stabilize and thicken: they may also present skin benefits.

It is another aim of the present invention to provide an aqueous composition comprising the pre-mix of the invention and wherein the naturality of the composition is improved.

These aims are achieved by the invention, which will be described below.

LEGEND OF THE FIGURES

Figure 1A: Effect of the KG concentration in the gum mixture (GM) on viscosity.

Aqueous solutions containing 1% w/w of GM1 containing 1 to 50% by weight of KG 899T were prepared. The viscosity of these aqueous solutions was measured at 20° C.

Figure 1 B: Effect of the KG concentration in the gum mixture (GM) on viscosity.

Aqueous solutions containing 5% w/w of GM1 containing 1 to 30% by weight of KG 899T were prepared. The viscosity of these aqueous solutions was measured at 20° C.

Figure 1C: Effect of the KG concentration in the gum mixture (GM) on viscosity.

Aqueous solutions containing 10% w/w of GM1 containing 1 to 20% by weight of KG 899T were prepared. The viscosity of these aqueous solutions was measured at 20° C. Figure 2: Comparison of viscosities of solutions containing GM1 (65/35) or KG alone.

Aqueous solutions containing from 0.1 to 2% w/w of GM1 (65/35) or of KG alone were prepared. The viscosity of these aqueous solutions was measured at 20° C.

Figure 3: Effect of the temperature on viscosity of aqueous solutions containing GM1 (65/35) or KG alone.

Aqueous solutions AS(1 .0%), GM1 (65/35); AS(1 .0%),KG and AS(25%),AG were prepared. The viscosity of these aqueous solutions was measured at different temperatures ranging between 2.5 and 65 °C.

Figure 4: Effect of the pH of on the viscosity of aqueous solutions containing GM2(65/35) or KG alone.

Aqueous solutions AS(1.0%), GM2(65/35); AS(1.0%),KG and AS(25%),AG were prepared. The viscosity of these aqueous solutions was measured at different pH ranging between 2 and 10.5.

Figure 5: Comparison of the rheological profile of aqueous solutions containing GM1 (65/35) with that of aqueous solution containing KG or AG alone

Aqueous solution AS(1 .0%),GM1 (65/35), AS(25%),AG and AS(1.0%),KG were prepared. The viscosity of these aqueous solutions was measured at shear rate ranging between 0.581 s' ¹ and 19.80 s’ ¹

Figure 6: Comparison of the thixotropic profile of aqueous solutions containing GM1 (65/35) with that of aqueous solutions containing KG or AG alone. A) Aqueous solution AS(1.0%), GM1 (65/35) and AS(1.0%), KG were prepared. Their thixotropic profile was determined. B) Aqueous solution AS(1 .0%), GM3(40/60) and AS(25.0%), AG were prepared. Their thixotropic profile was determined.

Figure 7: Effect of high temperature stress on the viscosity of aqueous solutions containing GM1 (65/35) and or KG alone.

A) Aqueous solutions AS(1.0%), GM1 (65/35) and AS(1.0%),KG were prepared. Their viscosity was measured before and after freezing B) Aqueous solutions AS(1.0%), GM1 (65/35) and AS(1 .0%),KG were prepared. Their viscosity was measured before and after microwave heating.

Figure 8: Sensory analysis of a moisturizing creams containing GM1 (50/50) or KG alone. Cream A containing KG alone and Cream B containing GM1 (50/50) were prepared. A sensory analysis was then carried out on Cream A and Cream B.

Figure 9: Sensory analysis of a moisturizing creams containing GM1 (50/50), a synthetic surfactant Hygel E100FD or Xanthan gum.

Cream E containing Xanthan gum, cream F containing a synthetic surfactant (Hygel E100FD) and cream G containing GM1 (50/50) were prepared. A sensory analysis was then carried out on Creams E, F and G.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

First aspect: Premix

A first aspect of the invention is a premix in powder form comprising at least 90% of a gum mixture of Karaya gum and Acacia gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the weight of the premix.

In the present invention, the expression “premix in powder form” denotes a premix consisting essentially of an assembly of discrete particles. In the sense of the present invention a premix in powder form is a material in dry form. Preferably, the premix comprises less than 15%, preferably less than 12% of water, in % expressed by weight relative to the weight of premix.

In the present invention, and unless otherwise specified, the expression “gum mixture” means a gum mixture consisting of Karaya gum and Acacia gum in powder form i.e. that the mixture consists of an assembly of particles of Karaya gum and Acacia gum. As used herein, the mixture of Karaya gum and Acacia gum may be referred to simply as the “mixture” or the "gum mixture".

In the present invention, the size of the Karaya gum and Acacia gum particles is measured using a sifting machine (RETSCH AS 200 Digital) according to the method detailed in 10 ^th issue of European Pharmacopoeia (Paragraph 2.9.38. Particle-size distribution estimation by analytical sieving).

Advantageously, the D50 of the Karaya and Acacia gum is comprised between 50 pm and 2 mm. Advantageously, the D50 of the Acacia gum is comprised between 70 and 250 pm, preferably between 100 and 200 pm, preferably between 100 and 150 pm.

Advantageously, the D50 of the Karaya gum is comprised between 45 and 250 pm, preferably between 45 and 140 pm, preferably between 63 and 106 pm.

D50 means that 50% of the particles in weight have a size less than the D50.

The premix essentially comprises the gum mixture, meaning that it advantageously comprises from 90 to 100%, preferably from 95 to 100%, even more preferably 98 to 100% of gum mixture, in % expressed by weight relative to the weight of premix. Preferably, the premix comprises from 99 to 100% of gum mixture in % expressed by weight relative to the weight of premix.

Advantageously, the premix of the invention is a premix wherein the gum mixture comprises:

- from 5 to 99%, preferably from 10 to 99%, more preferably from 15 to 99%, even more preferably from 20 to 99%, of Acacia gum, in particular from 25 to 99%, advantageously from 30 to 99%, and

- from 1 to 95%, preferably from 1 to 90%, more preferably from 1 to 85%, even more preferably from 1 to 80%, in particular from 1 to 75%, advantageously from 1 to 70% of Karaya gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum is equal to 100%.

Preferably, the gum mixture comprises from 30 to 99%, of Acacia gum, and from 1 to 70% of Karaya gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum is equal to 100%.

Advantageously, the premix of the invention is a premix wherein the gum mixture comprises:

- from 5 to 98%, preferably from 10 to 98%, more preferably from 15 to 98%, even more preferably from 20 to 98%, of Acacia gum, in particular from 25 to 98%, advantageously from 30 to 98%, and

- from 2 to 95%, preferably from 2 to 90%, more preferably from 2 to 85%, even more preferably from 2 to 80%, in particular from 2 to 75%, advantageously from 2 to 70% of Karaya gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum is equal to 100%. Preferably, the gum mixture comprises from 30 to 98%, of Acacia gum, and from 2 to 70% of Karaya gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum is equal to 100%.

Advantageously, the premix of the invention is a premix wherein the gum mixture comprises:

- from 5 to 95%, preferably from 10 to 95%, more preferably from 15 to 95%, even more preferably from 20 to 95%, of Acacia gum, in particular from 25 to 95%, advantageously from 30 to 95%, and

- from 5 to 95%, preferably from 5 to 90%, more preferably from 5 to 85%, even more preferably from 5 to 80%, in particular from 5 to 75%, advantageously from 5 to 70% of Karaya gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum is equal to 100%.

Preferably, the gum mixture comprises from 30 to 95%, of Acacia gum, and from 5 to 70% of Karaya gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum is equal to 100%.

Advantageously, the gum mixture comprises from 5 to 90%, preferably from 10 to 90%, more preferably from 15 to 90%, even more preferably from 20 to 90%, in particular from 25 to 90%, advantageously from 30 to 90% of Acacia gum, and from 10 to 95%, preferably from 10 to 90%, more preferably from 10 to 85%, even more preferably from 10 to 80% of Karaya gum, in particular from 10 to 75%, advantageously from 10 to 70% of Karaya gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum is equal to 100%.

Advantageously, the gum mixture comprises from 5 to 85%, preferably from 10 to 85%, more preferably from 15 to 85%, even more preferably from 20 to 85%, in particular from 25 to 85%, advantageously from 30 to 85%, of Acacia gum, and from 15 to 95%, preferably from 15 to 90%, more preferably from 15 to 85%, even more preferably from 15 to 80%, in particular from 15 to 75%, advantageously from 15 to 70% of Karaya gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum is equal to 100%.

Advantageously, the gum mixture comprises from 5 to 80%, preferably from 10 to 80%, more preferably from 15 to 80%, even more preferably from 20 to 80%, in particular from 25 to 80%, advantageously from 30 to 80% of Acacia gum, and from 20 to 95%, preferably from 20 to 90%, more preferably from 20 to 85%, even more preferably from 20 to 80%, in particular from 20 to 75%, advantageously from 20 to 70% of Karaya gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum being equal to 100%.

In one embodiment, the gum mixture comprises at least 50%, advantageously at least 55%, more advantageously at least 60% of Karaya gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the weight of the gum mixture.

The gum mixture according to this embodiment of the invention presents unexpected advantageous thixotropic properties when the gum mixture comprises at least 50% of Karaya gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the weight of the gum mixture. This is particularly advantageous for the preparation of composition to be placed in a container such as a toothpaste or a moisturizing cream.

More particularly, the gum mixture according to this embodiment of the invention presents a thixotropic index superior to 3, preferably superior to 3.5, more preferably superior to 4.

In the present invention, the term “thixotropic index” means a ratio of viscosity at 2 different speeds, generally different by a factor of 10. The thixotropic index of a material indicates the capacity to regenerate its structure after being subjected to a strain. A highly thixotropic material will fall in viscosity when it will be stirred or when the shear stress is increased.

In this embodiment, the gum mixture advantageously comprises from 50 to 95%, preferably from 50 to 90%, more preferably from 50 to 85%, even more preferably from 50 to 80%, in particular from 50 to 75%, advantageously from 50 to 70% of Karaya gum, and from 5 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50%, more preferably from 15 to 50%, even more preferably from 20 to 50%, in particular from 25 to 50%, advantageously from 30 to 50% of Acacia gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum being equal to 100%.

The gum mixture may advantageously comprise from 55 to 95%, preferably from 55 to 90%, more preferably from 55 to 85%, even more preferably from 55 to 80%, in particular from 55 to 75%, advantageously from 55 to 70% of Karaya gum, and from 5 to 45%, preferably from 10 to 45%, more preferably from 15 to 45%, even more preferably from 20 to 45%, in particular from 25 to 45%, advantageously from 30 to 45% of Acacia gum, and, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum being equal to 100%.

The gum mixture may advantageously comprise from 60 to 95%, preferably from 60 to 90%, more preferably from 60 to 85%, even more preferably from 60 to 80%, in particular from 60 to 75%, advantageously from 60 to 70% of Karaya gum, and from 5 to 40%, preferably from 10 to 40%, more preferably from 15 to 40%, even more preferably from 20 to 40%, in particular from 25 to 40%, advantageously from 30 to 40% of Acacia gum, and, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum being equal to 100%.

In another embodiment, the gum mixture comprises at least 50%, advantageously at least 55%, more advantageously a least 60% of Acacia gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the weight of the gum mixture.

In this embodiment, the gum mixture advantageously comprises from 50 to 95%, preferably from 50 to 90%, more preferably from 50 to 85%, even more preferably from 50 to 80%, in particular from 50 to 75%, advantageously from 50 to 70% of Acacia gum, and from 5 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50%, more preferably from 15 to 50%, even more preferably from 20 to 50%, in particular from 25 to 50%, advantageously from 30 to 50% of Karaya gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum being equal to 100%.

The gum mixture may advantageously comprise from 55 to 95%, preferably from 55 to 90%, more preferably from 55 to 85%, even more preferably from 55 to 80%, in particular from 55 to 75%, advantageously from 55 to 70% of Acacia gum, and from 5 to 45%, preferably from 10 to 45%, more preferably from 15 to 45%, even more preferably from 20 to 45%, in particular from 25 to 45%, advantageously from 30 to 45% of Karaya gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum being equal to 100%.

The gum mixture may advantageously comprise from 60 to 95%, preferably from 60 to 90%, more preferably from 60 to 85%, even more preferably from 60 to 80%, in particular from 60 to 75%, advantageously from 60 to 70% of Acacia gum, and from 5 to 40%, preferably from 10 to 40%, more preferably from 15 to 40%, even more preferably from 20 to 40%, in particular from 25 to 40%, advantageously from 30 to 40% of Acacia gum, in % expressed by weight relative to the gum mixture, wherein the sum of percentages by weight of Acacia gum and of Karaya gum being equal to 100%.

Acacia gum

In the present invention, the term “Acacia gum” or “Arabic gum” refers to the dried exudate obtained from the branches and stems of Acacia trees pertaining to the genus Acacia. In the context of the invention, the terms “Acacia gum” and “Arabic gum” can be used interchangeably.

Acacia exudate typically occurs as a sticky liquid that oozes from the stems and branches of Acacia trees, which grow across the Sahelian belt of Africa, the harvest zone covers countries like Senegal, Eritrea, Mali, Nigeria, Chad, Niger, Sudan, and Ethiopia. Nodules form instantly when the thick liquid exudating from acacia is exposed to air and sun (gummosis phenomena). These nodules are collected and solubilized in water. Once the nodules are solubilized in water, foreign matters are purified by means of centrifugation and filtration. The purified product is then spray dried in hot air to obtain an Acacia gum powder.

Acacia gum is referenced as an additive by the EFSA (European Food Safety Authority) under number E414. Advantageously, the Acacia gum is a dried exudate obtained from the stems and branches of Acacia trees species selected from Acacia Senegal (INCI denomination: Acacia Senegal gum) and Acacia seyal (INCI denomination: Acacia seyal gum).

From a chemical perspective, Acacia gums are usually described as heterogeneous, polydisperse, and hetero-polymolecular systems having more than one component with different monomer composition, molecular weight, and mode of linking and branching.

The biochemical composition and molecular characteristics of Acacia gum vary depending on internal and external factors such as Acacia tree species, tree location, age of trees, weather conditions, site and way of tapping, storage conditions, maturation time, and post harvesting processes that will allow standardization and the removal of foreign matters as detailed above. The molecular weight of the gums of the invention is measured using Size Exclusion Chromatography - Multi-Angle Laser Light Scattering (SEC-MALLS) without the addition of any internal standard. It is well known in the art how to evaluate or calculate some parameters like radius of hydration and molecular weight of gums from light scattering, UV-Visible, intrinsic viscometry and refractometry measurements.

Preferably, the means for measuring the molecular weight of the gums referred to in the present invention are as follows:

Pump Shimadzu (Kyoto, Japan) LC20AD - flow rate: 1 mL.min' ¹ ,

Automatic injector Shimadzu SIL-20ACHT (50pL) ,

Pre-column OHPAK SB-G,

- 2 columns OHPAK SB 804 HQ and SB 805 HQ,

UV-VIS detector SPD-20A Shimadzu,

MALLS detector: Dawn Heleos II (Wyatt technology Corp., Santa Barbara, Ca, USA), laser red source (I = 658 nm) of 120 mW and 18 angles,

Intrinsic viscosity measure with a VISCOSTAR II (Wyatt technology Corp.), Differential refractometric detector DRI: OPTILAB T-rEX (Wyatt technology Corp.),

Software: ASTRA 6.06 (Wyatt technology Corp.),

Solvent: LiN03 0.1 mol/L filtered through 0.1 m filter,

Samples: 1 g/L in LiN03 0.1M.

Advantageously, Acacia gum presents an average molecular weight comprised between 4 x 10 ⁵ and 20 x 10 ⁵ g.mol' ¹ . Acacia Senegal gum advantageously presents an average molecular weight comprised between 4 x 10 ⁵ and 2 x 10 ⁶ g.mol' ¹ ; Acacia seyal gum advantageously presents an average molecular weight comprised between 6 x 10 ⁵ and 2 x 10 ⁶ g.mol' ¹ .

Using hydrophobic interaction chromatography (HIC) or size exclusion chromatography (SEC), multiple macromolecular fractions may be separated from Acacia gums such as Acacia Senegal gum or Acacia seyal gum.

The three main fractions obtained by HIC are usually named the Arabi noGalactan (AG) fraction, the ArabinoGalactan-Protein (AGP) fraction, and the GlycoProtein (GP) fraction. The most abundant fraction, AG, represents approximately 70 to 90 %, in % expressed by weight relative to the weight of the Acacia gum. The AG fraction is generally composed of high molecular weight (Mw) macromolecules having a molecular weight preferably comprised between 4 x 10 ⁴ and 10 x 10 ⁵ g mol' ¹ .

The second main fraction, AGP, typically represents around 1 to 25%, in % expressed by weight relative to the weight of the Acacia gum. It contains about 8 to 12% of protein, in % expressed by weight relative to the weight of the AGP fraction. The AGP fraction is generally composed of high molecular weight (Mw) macromolecules having a molecular weight comprised between 1 x 10 ⁶ and 4 x 10 ⁶ g.mol' ¹ .

The GP fraction usually represents around 1 to 3%, preferably about 2% in % expressed by weight relative to the weight of the Acacia gum. This fraction contains the highest content of proteins, usually from 20 to 50% preferably 25 to 40%, in % expressed by weight relative to the weight of the GP fraction. This fraction typically contains at least three glycoprotein populations having a molecular weight ranging from 1 x 10 ⁴ to 4 x 10 ⁴ g mol' ¹ .

In the present invention, the Acacia gum advantageously comprises:

- from 34 to 38% of galactose,

- from 30 to 50% of arabinose,

- from 2 to 20% of rhamnose,

- from 5 to 20% of glucuronic acid,

- from 0.5 to 3% of protein, preferably from 1 to 3% of protein, in wt% relative to the weight of Acacia gum.

In an embodiment, the Acacia gum is a dried exudate obtained from the stems and branches of the species Acacia Senegal. In accordance with that embodiment, the Acacia Senegal gum preferably comprises:

- from 32 to 40 % of galactose,

- from 25 to 35% of arabinose,

- from 10 to 20% of rhamnose,

- from 10 to 20 % of glucuronic acid

- from 1 to 4 %, preferably from 2 to 3% of protein, in wt% relative to the weight of Acacia Senegal gum.

Advantageously, less than 30 % wt, preferably less than 10 % wt of the glucuronic acid of Acacia Senegal gum is methylated, in % weight relative to the glucuronic acid present in Acacia Senegal gum. Preferably, the glucuronic acid of Acacia Senegal gum is unmethylated.

In another embodiment, the Acacia gum is a dried exudate obtained from the stems and branches of Acacia Seyal. In accordance with that embodiment, Acacia seyal gum preferably comprises:

- from 30 to 40 % of galactose,

- from 40 to 50% of arabinose,

- from 1 to 5% of rhamnose,

- from 1 to 10 % of glucuronic acid

- from 0,25 to 2 %, preferably from 0.5 to 1 ,5% of protein, in wt% relative to the weight of Acacia seyal gum.

Advantageously, more than 50 % wt of the glucuronic acid of Acacia seyal gum is methylated, in % weight relative to the glucuronic acid present in Acacia seyal gum.

Acacia gums may also contain some minor components including lipids, tannins, phenols and enzymes.

Karaya gum

In the present invention, the term “Karaya gum” or “Sterculia gum” refers to the dried exudate obtained from the branches and stems of pertaining to the family of Sterculiaceae. In the context of the invention, the terms “Karaya gum” and “Sterculia gum” can be used interchangeably.

Karaya trees mainly grow across Senegal, Mali and India.

Advantageously, the Karaya gum is a dried exudate obtained from the stems and branches of Karaya trees species selected from Sterculia urens Roxb. (INCI name: Sterculia urens gum), Sterculia villosa and Sterculia setigera.

Karaya gum is a complex, partially acetylated polysaccharide. The biochemical composition and molecular characteristics of Karaya gum vary depending on the same factors as mentioned above for Acacia gum. Karaya exudate and Karaya gum powder are obtained as Acacia exudate and Acacia gum powder as described above. In the same as for the Acacia gum, the Karaya gum is preferably airdried and is preferably not subjected to post harvesting processes such as deacetylation process. Crude karaya gum is standardized thanks to mechanical ways of processing to clean, granulate and pulverize. Karaya gum can also be treated (preferably by thermal flash) in order to reduce microbiological contamination.

Karaya gum advantageously presents an average molecular weight molecular weight comprised between 6 x 10 ⁶ g.mol' ¹ and 20 x 10 ⁶ g.mol' ¹ , preferably of about 8 x 10 ⁶ g.mol' ¹ .

Karaya gum main chain is formed by a-D-galacturonic acid and L-rhamnose units. Side chains are linked to main chain by 1 ,2-D-galactose bounds or 1 ,3--D-glucuronic bound for galacturonic acid.

In the present invention, the Karaya gum preferably comprises:

- from 55 to 60% of sugars selected from galactose, rhamnose and mixtures thereof,

- from 35 to 50% of uronic acids selected from galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, and mixtures thereof,

- from 6 to 8%, preferably about 8% of acetyl groups, in wt% relative to the weight of Karaya gum.

Second aspect: Use of the premix as a texturing agent

The inventors have found that the premix of the invention is surprisingly efficient to bring a high versatility of textures to an aqueous solution. Depending on its content in Acacia and Karaya gums, the premix is able to stabilize emulsions, to generate thick and nice silky textures in moisturizing creams and milks, to provide stickiness and film forming properties useful for preparing masks and scrubs, or to create gels for shower, bath or hair products.

Importantly, the premix of the invention allows to obtain textures which are very stable on a wide range of pH while being resistant to high temperature stresses such as microwave heating or freezing. Besides, the premix of the invention is cold soluble and can be carried out in a wide range of temperatures making it compatible with virtually all the preparation methods, in particular those usually used in cosmetic industry.

It is particularly notable that the premix of the invention is advantageously based on natural products resulting from a sustainable mode of production. Besides, the gums used in the premix of the invention preferably do not require chemical processing. Advantageously the premix is based on chemically unprocessed gums.

Thus, according to a second aspect of the invention, the invention relates to the use of the premix as defined in the first aspect of the invention as a texturizing agent such as a thickening agent, an emulsifying agent, a gelling agent, a thixotropic agent, a film forming agent, a moisturizing agent or a combination thereof.

In the present invention, the term “texturizing agent” means a substance which make it possible to modify and/or stabilize the texture of an aqueous phase. Texture can be defined by the way in which the various constituents and structural elements are arranged and combined into a micro- and macrostructure, and by the external demonstrations of this structure, in terms of flow and deformation, advantageously without substantially changing its other properties. Texturant may also improve the suspension of other ingredients or the stability of emulsions thereby increasing the stability of the final product. Texture can be assessed based on sensory and rheological methods.

In the present invention, the term “thickening agent” means a substance which increases the viscosity of an aqueous phase.

In the present invention, the term “gelling agent” means a substance which gives a non-fluid texture to an aqueous phase through the formation of a gel. A gel is usually based on a molecule which, in the presence of an appropriate solvent, self-assemblies via chemical or physical interactions, and becomes organized as a network. The specific processes which result in the formation of gels depend on the physicochemical properties and on the interactions of the components of the gel. When the solvent is water, the term hydrogel may be used. By weight, gels are mostly liquid, yet they behave like solids because of a three-dimensional network within the liquid. It is the three-dimensional network within the fluid that gives a gel its structure (i.e. hardness) and contributes to its adhesiveness. The terms “non-fluid” and “semi-solid” can be used interchangeably. In the present invention, the term “emulsifying agent” means a substance which make it possible to form and/or maintain a homogenous mixture of two or more immiscible phases such as an oil phase and an aqueous phase. The emulsion may for example be an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) double emulsion, or an oil-in-water-in-oil (O/W/O) double emulsion.

In the present invention the term “stabilizing agent” means a substance which makes possible to maintain the physico-chemical state of an aqueous phase during a storage time. Stabilizing agents may for example allow the maintenance of a homogenous dispersion of two or more immiscible substances in a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

In the present invention, the term “thixotropic agent” means a substance which makes possible to obtain thixotropic compositions, i.e. fluids or gels having a viscosity that varies over time when they are placed under a constant force. Typically, the viscosity of a thixotropic composition decreases with time when a constant force is applied, and gradually recovers its initial state (e.g. consistency and structure) after interruption of said force. Generally, the higher the force that is applied, the lower the viscosity becomes.

In the present invention, the term “film-forming agent” means a substance which makes it possible to texturize an aqueous phase that produces, upon application, continuous films. Such films usually have water-binding properties and leaves a smooth feel when applied on skin.

In the present invention, the term “moisturizing agent” means a substance that allows increasing the water content of the skin and helps keep it soft and smooth.

The properties of the premix of the invention are especially advantageous in the cosmetic or dermatological field, as well as for the preparation of homecare compositions.

Third aspect: Use of the premix for the preparation of a composition chosen from the group consisting of cosmetic or dermatological composition, and homecare composition Thus, a third aspect of the invention is the use of the premix of the invention for the preparation of a composition chosen from the group consisting of cosmetic or dermatological composition, and homecare composition.

The cosmetic or dermatological composition may for example be under the form of a cream, a gel, a lotion, or a milk.

Milks and lotions are liquid or semi-liquid preparations which may be an oil-in-water or a water-in-oil emulsion. They are usually preferred for treating large body areas, due to the ease of applying a more fluid composition. They may comprise particles in suspension, typically opacifying agents and/or pearlescent agents. Advantageously, they are sprayable.

Creams are viscous liquids or semisolid emulsions, either oil-in-water or water-in-oil. Cream bases are typically water-washable, and contain an oil phase, an emulsifier and an aqueous phase. The oil phase, also called the “internal” phase, is generally comprised of petrolatum and/or a fatty alcohol such as cetyl or stearyl alcohol. The aqueous phase typically, although not necessarily, exceeds the oil phase in volume, and generally contains a humectant. The emulsifying agent in a cream formulation is generally a nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant.

Gels are semi-solids usually based on a molecule which in the presence of an appropriate solvent, self-assemblies via chemical or physical interactions, and becomes organized as a network.

Advantageously, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is a skincare composition, a haircare composition, an oral care composition or a make-up composition.

In the present invention, the term “skincare composition” means a composition intended for cleaning, protecting and/or adjusting the color of the face, the neck, the hands, the body, and may for example be a moisturizing composition, a cleansing composition, a cold or sun protecting composition, an artificial tanning composition, a skin whitening (bleaching) composition or a foaming bath composition.

The skincare composition may for example be a day or night cream or gel, a hand cream, a sunblock cream or lotion, a cold cream, a makeup remover solution, a body and/or face cleanser lotion, an artificial tanning cream, a skin whitening (bleaching) cream.

In the present invention, the term “haircare composition” means a composition intended for cleaning, protecting, coloring and/or treating the hair. A haircare composition may for example be a shampoo, a hair conditioner or a hair dye composition. A shampoo is a composition designed to clean the scalp skin and hair as its primary function, but that may also serve to condition and beautify hair and/or to act as an adjunct in the management of various scalp disorders. Hair conditioner is a composition designed to improve hair manageability, decrease hair static electricity and add luster.

In the present invention, the term “oral care composition” means a composition intended for cleaning, protecting, deodorizing and/or whitening the oral cavity and/or the teeth, and may for example be a toothpaste such as an antimicrobial toothpaste, an anti-tartar or plaque control toothpastes, or a whitening toothpaste.

In the present invention, the term “make-up composition” means a composition intended for beautifying and improving the feeling or sensory aspects of a normal and/or nondiseased skin. A make-up composition may for example be a foundation, a blusher, an eyeshadow, an eyeliner, or a mascara.

The cosmetic or dermatological composition contains usual cosmetically resp. dermatologically acceptable ingredients, typically cosmetic or dermatological ingredients having one or several functions as defined in the European Union Commission Decision of 9 February 2006 establishing an inventory and a common nomenclature of ingredients employed in cosmetic products (2006/257/EC).

Advantageously the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises one or more cosmetic ingredients as listed in the Annex to the European Commission Decision 2019/701 of 5 April 2019.

The solvent is preferably an aqueous phase present at a concentration of 20% to 85%, or alternatively 35% to 80% or alternatively 40% to 70%, in wt% relative to the weight of composition. In the present invention, the expression “aqueous phase” means a phase mainly composed of water. The aqueous phase advantageously comprises from 50% to 100%, more advantageously 60% to 100% of water. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water. The aqueous phase may comprise trace elements such as zinc, copper, or magnesium.

The composition may comprise other solvents as detailed in the fourth aspect of the invention.

The composition may include an aqueous phase and an oil phase. The oil may be mineral or vegetal.

In that embodiment, the composition includes a phase ratio of the aqueous phase to the oil phase of about 0.80 to 15.0, preferably from 0.80 to 5.

A moisturizing agent may be present in an amount from about 2% to 50%, preferably 2% to 10%, in wt% relative to the weight of composition. Suitable moisturizing agents include but are not limited to glycerin, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols, urea, and propylene glycol. Advantageously, the moisturizer is glycerin.

A preservative agent may be present in an amount from about 0.001% to about 8 %, preferably 0.005% to 6%, in wt% relative to the weight of composition. Suitable preservatives include but are not limited to benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, methylparaben or phenoxyethanol.

A gelling agent may be present in an amount from about 0.5 to about 2%, in wt% relative to the weight of composition. Advantageously, the gelling agent is a carbomer. “Carbomer” is the USP designation for various polymeric acids that are dispersible but insoluble in water. When the acid dispersion is neutralized with a base a clear, stable gel is formed. Carbomer may be selected from carbomer 934P, 910, 940, 941 , and 1342.

A protective agent may be present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 1 .5%, in wt% relative to the weight of composition. Suitable protective agents include but are not limited to titanium dioxide.

A surfactant agent may be present in an amount from about 0.1 to about 1 .5%, in wt% relative to the weight of composition. Suitable surfactant agents include but are not limited to silicone surfactants, and alkoxylated alcohols or ethers. Advantageously, the surfactants agent is selected from glyceryl stearate, methyl glucose sesquistearate, cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, sucrose stearate, glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl wheat straw glucosides, cetearyl alcohol, potassium olivoyl, hydrolyzed wheat protein, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

Particulate materials may be present in an amount from about 0.01 to 65%, in wt% relative to the weight of composition. The particulate materials may be colored or non-colored. Suitable non-pigmented particulate materials include, but are not limited to silica fume, acrylate copolymers, aluminum silicate, bentonite, cellulose, chalk, corn starch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth, glyceryl starch, hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, silk powder, sericite, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, walnut shell powder, or mixtures thereof. Suitable pigmented particulates include but are not limited to organic pigments such as azo, indigoid, tri phenylmethane, anthraquinone, and xanthine dyes and/or inorganic pigments include iron oxides, ultramarines, chromium, chromium hydroxide colors, and mixtures thereof.

The homecare composition may be selected from the group consisting of dishwashing detergent (for use in dishwasher or hand washing), laundry detergent (for use in washing machine or hand washing), and surface detergents.

Advantageously, the composition comprises from 0.5 to 30% of premix according to the invention in wt% relative to the weight of composition.

Advantageously, the composition comprises from 0.5 to 20%, 0.5 to 10%, or 0.5 to 5% of premix according to the invention, in wt% relative to the weight of composition.

The composition may for example be under the form of a lotion or a milk comprising from 60 to 70% of water and from 0.5 to 5% of premix according to the invention, in wt% relative to the weight of composition.

The composition may for example be under the form of a cream, advantageously comprising from 70 to 80%, preferably from 70 to 75% of water and from 5 to 15% of premix according to the invention, in wt% relative to the weight of composition. The composition may be a gel comprising from 80 to 90% of water and from 1 .5 to 15%, preferably from 2 to 10% of premix according to the invention, in wt% relative to the weight of composition.

Fourth aspect: composition according to the invention

A fourth aspect of the invention is a composition chosen from the group consisting of cosmetic or dermatological composition, and homecare composition as defined in the third aspect of the invention comprising at least an aqueous phase and a premix as defined in the first aspect of the invention dispersed in said aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase may comprise other solvents miscible with water, in particle organic solvents such as alcohols, advantageously lower alcohol, including methanol, ethanol, propanol, and isopropanol. Ethanol is particularly preferred due to its high volatility and low toxicity.

The aqueous phase may be a water-alcohol mixture, preferably a water-alcohol mixture comprising at most 40% of alcohol, in % expressed by volume of the water- alcohol mixture.

Lower alcohol solvents, including methanol, ethanol, propanol, and isopropanol, are also contemplated to be useful. Ethanol is particularly preferred due to its high volatility and low toxicity. Preferably, the ethanol is ethanol.

The composition may be a single aqueous phase or a mixture of an aqueous phase with one or more non-aqueous phase.

In the present invention, the expression “non-aqueous phase” means a phase whose main solvent is not water and which is not miscible with water.

The composition comprising a mixture of an aqueous phase with one or more nonaqueous phase is typically an emulsion.

In the present invention, the term “emulsion” means mixtures of an aqueous phase with a material which is insoluble with the aqueous phase and preferably stabilized by the premix of the invention. The emulsion is preferably selected from the group consisting of water in oil (w/o) emulsion, oil in water (o/w), and water-in -oil -in -water (w/o/w) emulsion.

In an embodiment, the composition is a cosmetic or dermatological composition as defined in the third aspect of the invention. In particular, it advantageously comprises ingredients as defined in the third aspect of the invention.

Advantageously, the cosmetic or dermatological composition has a pH comprised between 5,5 and 7,5.

In another embodiment, the composition is a homecare composition as defined in the third aspect of the invention.

Advantageously, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is neutral, acid or basic, and may for example have a pH comprised between 5 and 6, between to 2 and 5 or between 10 and 13.

Fifth aspect: method for preparing a composition according to the invention

A fifth aspect of the invention is a method for preparing a composition as defined in the fourth aspect of the invention, comprising a step of adding the premix as defined in the first aspect of the invention to an aqueous composition.

As mentioned above, it is particularly notable that the premix presents a high stability to temperature variations making it compatible with virtually all preparation methods usually used industry, in particular in cosmetic industry.

The method advantageously includes a step of cold or hot mixing the premix in an aqueous phase.

Advantageously, the premix according to the invention may be mixed with the aqueous composition at a temperature comprised between 20° C and 100°C, preferably from 40°C and 100°C.

EXAMPLES

The raw materials used in the examples are listed below: Karaya gum, Alland & Robert, commercial reference 899T,

Instant Soluble Acacia Senegal Gum, Alland & Robert, commercial reference 3961,

Spray dried Acacia Senegal Gum, Alland & Robert, commercial reference 393A, Acacia seyal gum demineralized,

Instant Soluble Acacia Senegal gum, Alland & Robert, commercial reference 5001

In what follows: gum mixtures of KG 899T and AG 3961 are referred to GM1 , gum mixtures of KG 899T and a demineralized Acacia seyal gum powder are referred to GM2, gum mixtures of KG 899T and AG 393A are referred to as GM3, gum mixtures of KG 899T and AG 500I are referred to as GM4.

The particle size characteristics of the raw material gums are shown in Table 1 below:

Table 1 : particle size characteristics of the raw material gums

The viscosity of the solution is measured using viscosimeter Brookfield DV2T or RVT, depending on the product analyzed : for high viscosity use RVT, spindle 3, 20RPM / for others use DV2T, spindle 61 , 30 RPM.

D50 is the particle size for which 50% of the mass of the sample has a smaller (or larger) particle size. For example, if 050=100 pm, then 50% of the mass of the particles in the sample are larger than 100 pm, and 50% smaller than 100 pm. Example 1A: Study of the texture of aqueous solutions containing 1% w/w of gum mixtures containing from 1 to 50% of Karaya gum relative to the weight of gum mixture

1 . Material and methods

A Karaya gum powder (Alland & Robert ref.: 899T) was mixed with Acacia gum powder (Alland & Robert ref.: 396I) to obtain a homogenous gum mixture so as to obtain a gum mixture containing 1% wt of Karaya gum relative to the weight of the gum mixture (i.e. introduction of 0,01 g of Karaya gum in 1 g of gum mixture of Karaya gum and Acacia gum). This mixture is called GM1 (1%).

The same method was repeated, but increasing the % wt of Karaya gum relative to the weight of the gum mixture, so as to obtain gum mixtures containing 5%, 10%, 20%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45% and 50% of Karaya gum 899T relative to the weight of the gum mixture. These mixtures are respectively called: GM1 (5%), GM1 (10%), GM1 (15%), GM1 (20%), GM1 (25%), GM1 (30%), GM1 (35%), GM1 (40%), GM1 (45%), GM1 (50%).

The resultant gum mixtures were mixed with water so as to obtain a solution containing 1% w/w of gum mixture. These solutions are respectively called: AS(1%),GM1 (1%), AS(1%),GM1 (5%), AS(1%),GM1 (10%), AS(1%),GM1 (15%), AS(1%),GM1 (20%),

AS(1%),GM1 (25%), AS(1%),GM1 (30%), AS(1%),GM1 (35%), AS(1%),GM1 (40%),

AS(1%),GM1 (45%), AS(1%),GM1 (50%).

2. Results

The results are shown in Figure 1A.

Figure 1A shows that an appropriate texturing effect is visible from about 15 to 20 %wt of KG in the gum mixture.

Example 1B: Study of the texture of aqueous solutions containing 5% w/w of gum mixtures containing from 1 to 30% of Karaya gum relative to the weight of gum mixture

1. Material and methods The same gum mixtures as in Example 1A were used: GM1 (1%), GM1 (5%), GM1 (10%), GM1 (20%) and GM1 (30%).

The resultant gum mixtures were mixed with water so as to obtain a solution containing 5% w/w of gum mixture. These solutions are respectively called: AS(5%),GM1 (1%), AS(5%),GM1 (5%), AS(5%),GM1 (10%), AS(5%),GM1 (20%) and AS(5%),GM1 (30%).

2. Results

The results are shown in Figure 1 B.

Figure 1 B shows that an appropriate texturing effect is visible from about 5 to 10 %wt of KG in the gum mixture.

Example 1C: Study of the texture of aqueous solutions containing 10% w/w of gum mixtures containing from 1 to 20% of Karaya gum relative to the weight of gum mixture

1 . Material and methods

The same gum mixtures as in Example 1 A were used: GM1 (1%), GM1 (5%), GM1 (10%) and GM1 (20%).

The resultant gum mixtures were mixed with water so as to obtain a solution containing 10% w/w of gum mixture. These solutions are respectively called: AS(10%),GM1 (1%), AS(10%),GM1 (5%), AS(10%),GM1 (10%) and AS(10%),GM1 (20%).

2. Results

The results are shown in Figure 1C.

Figure 1C shows that an appropriate texturing effect is visible from about 1 to 5 %wt of KG in the gum mixture. Example 2: Study of the viscosity of aqueous solutions containing a gum mixture according to the invention at different concentrations and comparison with aqueous solutions containing KG alone at different concentrations

1 . Material and methods

In a first set of experiments, a Karaya gum powder (Alland & Robert ref.: 899T) is mixed with an Acacia gum powder (Alland & Robert ref.: 3961) to obtain a homogenous gum mixture in powder form containing Karaya Gum and Acacia gum in a weight ratio KG/AG of 65/35 (GM1 (65/35)).

The resultant gum mixture is mixed with water so as to obtain an aqueous solution containing 0.1% w/w of gum mixture (AS(0.1%),GM1 (65/35)).

The same method is repeated, but increasing the % w/w of GM1 (65/35) in the aqueous solution, so as to obtain aqueous solutions containing 0.2%, 0.4%, 0.6%, 0.8%, 1.0%,

1.2%, 1.4%, 1.6%, 1.8% and 2.0% of GM1 (65/35) (in % w/w). These solutions are respectively called: AS(0.2%),GM1 (65/35), AS(0.4%),GM1 (65/35),

AS(0.6%),GM1 (65/35), AS(0.8%),GM1 (65/35), AS(1.0%),GM1 (65/35),

AS(1 .2%),GM1 (65/35), AS(1 .4%),GM1 (65/35), AS(1.6%),GM1 (65/35),

AS(1 .8%),GM1 (65/35), AS(2.0%),GM1 (65/35).

In a second set of experiment, a Karaya gum alone (Alland & Robert ref.: 899T) was mixed with water so as to obtain an aqueous solution containing 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.4%, 0.6%, 0.8%, 1.0%, 1.2%, 1.4%, 1.6%, 1.8% and 2.0% of Karaya gum (in % w/w). These solutions are respectively called: AS(0.1%),KG, AS(0.2%),KG, AS(0.4%),KG, AS(0.6%),KG, AS(0.8%),KG, AS(1.0%),KG, AS(1.2%),KG, AS(1.4%),KG, AS(1.6%),KG, AS(1.8%),KG, AS(2.0%),KG.

The viscosity of these aqueous solutions is assayed at 20° C.

2. Results

The results are shown in Figure 2.

The results show firstly that the viscosity of aqueous solutions is more easily controllable using the gum mixture GM1 (65/35) than KG alone. Furthermore, the results show that the viscosity of solutions containing KG alone increases exponentially with the concentration of the solution whereas the viscosity of solutions containing a KG /AG gum mixture according to the invention increases in a more linear way.

Example 3: Study of the viscosity as function of the temperature of an aqueous solution containing a gum mixture according to the invention and comparison with an aqueous solution containing KG alone or AG alone

1 . Material and methods

In a first set of experiment, an aqueous solution AS(1 .0%), GM1 (65/35) is prepared.

In a second set of experiment, an aqueous solution AS(1 .0%), KG is prepared.

An aqueous solution containing 25% w/w of Acacia gum (Alland & Robert ref.: 399I) is also prepared (AS(25%), AG).

The viscosity of these solutions is assayed at different temperatures ranging from 2.5 °C to 65 °C.

2. Results

The results are shown in Figure 3.

The results show that the viscosity of a solution containing a gum mixture according to the invention is sensibly less sensitive to temperature variations than a solution containing KG alone. More specifically, AS(1.0%), KG loses 650 cps (-30%) when the temperature increases from 0 to 65°C whereas the viscosity of AS(1 .0%), GM1 (65/35) decreases by 150 cps (-16%).

These results evidence that the texturing properties of a gum mixture KG/AG according to the invention are less sensitive to temperature than Karaya gum alone. This low sensitivity to temperature is interesting during processing. This also demonstrate that the rheology of the final product will not be affected by storage under warm climates. 1

Example 4: Study of the stability to pH of an aqueous solution containing a gum mixture according to the invention and comparison with aqueous solutions containing KG alone or AG alone

1 . Material and methods

In a first set of experiments, a Karaya gum powder (Alland & Robert ref.: 899T) is mixed with a demineralized Acacia seyal gum powder (Alland & Robert) to obtain a homogenous gum mixture in powder form containing Karaya Gum 899T and Acacia seyal gum in a weight ratio KG/AG of 65/35 (GM2(65/35)).

An aqueous solution containing 1% w/w of GM2(65/35) is prepared (AS(1%), GM2(65/35)).

In a second set of experiment, an aqueous solution AS(1.0%), KG and an aqueous solution AS(25%), AG are prepared.

The viscosity of these solutions is assayed at 20° C at different pH ranging from 2 to 10.5. pH is adjusted with a citric acid solution for acid adjustment and with a sodium hydroxide solution for basic adjustment.

2. Results

The results are shown in Figure 4.

The results show that AS(1 .0%), GM2(65/35) is sensitive to acid pH but is stable for pH values between 4 to 10.

The results evidence that products containing GM2(65/35) will be stable in cosmetic applications (e.g. pH 5 to 10).

Example 5: Study of the rheology of an aqueous solution containing a gum mixture according to the invention and comparison with an aqueous solution containing KG or AG alone

1 . Material and methods Aqueous solutions AS(1 .0%),GM1 (65/35), AS(1.0%),KG and AS(25%), AG are prepared.

The viscosity of these solutions is assayed at different shear rates.

2. Results

The results are shown in Figure 5.

The results show that the rheological profile of AS(1 .0%), GM1 (65/35) is similar to that of AS(1.0%), KG.

Example 6: Study of the thixotropy of an aqueous solution containing a gum mixture according to the invention and comparison with an aqueous solution containing KG alone or AG alone

1 . Material and methods

1.1. AS(1 .0%), GM1 (65/35) vs. AS(1 .0%), KG

In a first set of experiment, an aqueous solution AS(1 .0%), GM1 (65/35) is prepared.

An aqueous solution AS(1 .0%), KG is prepared.

The thixotropic profile of these solutions is determined using the 3 intervals thixotropy test (3ITT) carried out as follows: first phase the solutions are subjected to a constant shear rate of 0.132 s' ¹ for 1 minute; second phase: the solutions are subjected to a constant shear rate 0.660 s' ¹ for 1 minute; third phase: the solutions are subjected to a constant shear rate of 0.132 s' ¹ for 1 minute.

The viscosity value of the solutions is measured during the three phases.

1 .2. AS(1 .0%), GM3(40/60) vs. AS(25%), AG

In a second set of experiment, a Karaya gum powder (Alland & Robert ref.: 899T) is mixed with a spray dried Acacia gum powder (Alland & Robert ref.: 393A) to obtain a homogenous gum mixture in powder form containing Karaya Gum and Acacia gum in a weight ratio KG /AG of 40/60 (GM3 (40/60)).

The resultant GM3(40/60) is mixed with water so as to obtain an aqueous solution containing 1.0% w/w of gum mixture (AS(1.0%), GM3(40/60)).

An aqueous solution AS(25%), AG is prepared.

The thixotropic profile of these solutions is determined using the 3 intervals thixotropy test (3ITT) carried out as follows: first phase the solutions are subjected to a constant shear rate of 19.80 s' ¹ for 1 minute; second phase: the solutions are subjected to a constant shear rate 39.60 s' ¹ for 1 minute; third phase: the solutions are subjected to a constant shear rate of 19.80 s' ¹ for 1 minute.

The viscosity value of the solutions is measured during the three phases.

2. Results

The thixotropic profiles of AS(1 .0%),GM1 (65/35) and AS(1 .0%), KG are shown in Figure 6A and the thixotropic profiles of AS(1 .0%),GM3(40/60) and AS(25%), AG are shown in Figure 6B.

The Thixotropic index of the solutions is shown in Table 2:

Table 2: Thixotropic index

AS(1 .0%), GM1 (65/35) has a higher thixotropic index than AS(1 .0%), KG. This evidences that a gum mixture KG/AG containing at least 50% of KG (in % expressed by weight relative to the weight of the gum mixture) has a higher thixotropic index than Karaya or Acacia gum alone. Besides, AS(1.0%), GM3(40/60) has a higher thixotropic index than AS(25%), AG. This evidences that a gum mixture KG/AG containing a majority of AG has a higher thixotropic index than acacia gum alone.

The gum mixture according to the invention is shear thinning and thixotropic (it returns to its initial texture after a few minutes rest).

Example 7: Study of the stability to high temperature stress of an aqueous solution containing a gum mixture according to the invention and comparison with an aqueous solution containing KG alone

1 . Material and methods

In a first set of experiment, an aqueous solution AS(1 .0%), GM1 (65/35) is prepared.

In a second set of experiment, an aqueous solution AS(1 .0%), KG is prepared.

The viscosity of these solutions is assayed after freezing or microwave heating.

2. Results

The results are shown in Figure 7A and Figure 7B.

The results show that the texture provided by the gum mixtures according to the invention are stable against high temperature stresses e.g. freezing or microwave heating.

Example 8: Preparation of a moisturizing cream using a gum mixture according to the invention and comparison with KG alone, AG alone, a natural texturizer, and a synthetic texturizer

1 . First study: Preparation of a moisturizing cream using a gum mixture according to the invention and comparison with a cream prepared using a KG alone

1.1. Material and methods In a first set of experiments, a Karaya gum powder (Alland & Robert ref.: 899T) is mixed with an Acacia gum powder (Alland & Robert ref. : 3961) to obtain a homogenous gum mixture in powder form containing Karaya Gum and Acacia gum in a weight ratio KG/AG of 50/50 (GM1 (50/50)).

In a second set of experiment, a Karaya gum alone (Alland & Robert ref.: 899T) is used.

GM1 (50/50) and KG 899T are used to produce a moisturizing cream whose formulation is detailed in Table 3.

Table 3: Composition of moisturizing creams A and B

The preparation method is as follows.

The texturizer is solubilized into water and glycerin (phase A). This phase is then heated to 65 °C.

A gum mixture of oil and cera alba (phase B) is heated to 65 °C too. Phases A and B are homogenized with an UltraTurrax for 2 minutes at 20 000RPM. Finally, the emulsion is stirred slowly until it reaches a temperature of about 45 °C before adding the preservatives, coloring and fragrance.

1.2. Results The moisturizing creams obtained present two different aspects:

Cream A (KG alone): The cream is uniform but duller

Cream B (GM1 (50/50)): The cream is uniform and shiny

Internal sensory analyses of creams A and B using panel tests show was carried out. The sensory analysis was carried out with a panel of 12 people (all “novices”). It is a blind analysis without any indication of components.

The results of the sensory analysis are detailed in Figure 8. This analysis highlighted that the gum mixture: improves the appearance of the cream and the spreading, does not change the adhesiveness and the touch of the cream, reduces the absorption and the softness after application compared to the Karaya gum alone.

During this trial, the panelists preferred Product B, i.e. the product formulated with GM1 (50/50)

2. Second study: Preparation of a moisturizing cream using a gum mixture according to the invention and comparison with a cream prepared using an AG alone

2.1 . Material and methods

AG 3991 and GM1 (50/50) are respectively used to produce moisturizing creams C (not according to the invention) and D (according to the invention). The composition of moisturizing creams C and D is detailed in Table 4.

Preparation method:

The texturizer is solubilized into water and glycerin (phase A). This phase is then heated to 60 °C.

A gum mixture of oils, butter and surfactants (phase B) is heated to 60° C too. Phases A and B are homogenized with an UltraTurrax for 2 minutes at 20 000RPM.

Finally, the emulsion is stirred slowly until it reaches a temperature of about 45° C before adding the preservative and the fragrance.

2.2. Results

The moisturizing creams obtained present two different aspects:

Cream C (AG 3991 alone): The cream presents an undesirable foaming aspect and is shiny;

Cream D (GM1 (50/50)): The cream is uniform and shiny.

3. Third study: Preparation of a moisturizing cream using a gum mixture according to the invention and comparison with a cream prepared using one natural texturizer (xanthan gum), and one synthetic texturizer

3.1 . Material and methods

GM1 (50/50), Xanthan Gum marketed by Aroma Zone and Hygel E100FD marketed by Brenntag are used to produce moisturizing creams whose formulation is detailed in Table 5.

Table 5: Composition of moisturizing creams E, F and G

The preparation method is as follows. The texturizer is solubilized into water and glycerin (phase A). This phase is then heated to 60 °C.

A gum mixture of oils, butter and surfactants (phase B) is heated to 60° C too. Phases A and B are homogenized with an UltraTurrax for 2 minutes at 20 000 RPM. Finally, the emulsion is stirred slowly until it reaches a temperature of about 45 °C before adding the preservative and the fragrance.

3.2. Results Texturometer analysis Creams E, F, G obtained are analyzed by a texturometer. The texturometer analysis shows a similar texture between the cream formulated with GM1 (50/50) and the cream texturized with the Xanthan gum: same consistency and same adhesiveness.

Sensory analysis

Internal sensory analyses of cream E (Xanthan gum), cream F (Hygel E100FD), and cream G (GM1 (50/50)) using panel tests show was carried out. The sensory analysis was carried out with a panel of 12 people (all “novices”). It is a blind analysis without any indication of components. The results are shown on Figure 9.

The texture obtained with GM1 (50/50) is similar to the texture obtained with xanthan natural gum.

4. Conclusion regarding the visual and smelling characteristics

The introduction of gum mixtures according to the invention in the formulation of the creams mentioned above does not impact the visual and smelling characteristics: no smell and no color addition. The gum mixture also allows brightness and improves the wholeness of the cream.

The moisturizer with the gum mixtures according to the invention was appreciated by the panelists and is an efficient alternative to existing texturizers.

Example 9: Preparation of a sprayable milk using a gum mixture according to the invention

In the case of moisturizing milk, KG/AG gum mixtures have been introduced alone as emulsifier and stabilizer, and importantly without another texturizer. These experiments are orientated towards the preparation of sprayable moisturizing milks.

1 . Material and methods

GM4(9/91 ): gum mixture containing KG 899T and AG 500I in a weight ratio KG/AG of 9/91.

GM4(9/91 ) is used to produce a milk A whose formulation is detailed in Table 6.

Table 6: Composition of Milk A

The preparation method is as follows.

The gum mixture KG/AG is solubilized into water and glycerin (phase A). This phase rests 3 hours minimum before emulsification (to have a complete hydration of the GA).

After this resting, the phase is heating to 85 °C. Phase B (composed with oils and wax) is heating too around 85 °C.

The two phases are homogenized with an UltraTurrax for 2 minutes at 20 000RPM.

2. Results

Milk A presents a homogeneous, satisfactory texture and white color.

It is stable after centrifugation at 3000 RPM for 15 minutes or after 1 week at room temperature.

The results show that it is possible to use gum mixtures according to the invention as emulsifier/stabilizer, in particular in sprayable milk applications.

Example 10: Preparation of an exfoliating gel using a gum mixture according to the invention and comparison with exfoliating gels obtained using Xanthan gum

1 . Material and methods GM1 (70/30): gum mixture containing KG 899T and AG 396I in a weight ratio KG/AG of 70/30.

For exfoliating gels, the GM1 (70/30) was found to be interesting to keep solid particles in suspension (approximate pH of 5,5).

The tests were realized in comparison with a natural texturizer commonly used, namely xanthan gum.

The preparation method is as follows.

Texturizers (Xanthan gum in Exfolianting gel A or GM1 (70/30) in exfoliating gels A and B) are, if necessary, humected in glycerin before the solubilization in the water. When the mix texturizers and water are uniform, the other ingredients are added.

2. Results

Different gels are obtained and present the following characteristics: