Stabilization of cosmetic compositions

It is well known that ultraviolet radiation (light) is harmful to human skin. Depending on the wavelength the UV radiation causes different types of skin damage. UV-B radiation (about 290 to about 320 nm) is responsible for sunburn and can cause skin cancer. UV-A radiation (about 320 to about 400 nm) while producing tanning of the skin, contributes also to sunburn and the induction of skin cancers. Moreover, the harmful effects of the UV-B radiation may be aggravated by UV-A radiation.

Therefore, an effective sunscreen formulation preferably comprises both at least one UV-A and UV-B filter covering the full range of about 290 nm to about 400 nm to prevent the human skin from the harmful effects of sunlight.

The effects of UV-A are mainly mediated by free radicals, e.g. reactive oxygen species inducing different types of degradation to cellular DNA, lipids, and proteins. The visible indications are often the result of long-term, cumulative effects. This is why skin photoaging is associated with UV-A light. It is also known that normal outdoor UV-A radiation can be effective enough to cause the breakdown of the proteins collagen and elastin leading to a loss of firmness and resilience of the skin. Therefore the UVA protection of a daily skin care is of significant relevance.

Numerous UV-B filters are registered for their use in sunscreen preparations, which are mainly derivatives of the 3-benzylidenecamphor, ethylhexyl salicylates and cinnamic acid esters, such as 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate.

A new class of organic UV filters are micronized piperazine bi-bisaminobenzophenones which are commonly used in admixture with cinnamic acid derivatives and/or dibenzoyl methane derivatives.

Unfortunately, this UV filter combination employed in sunscreen compositions suffers from relatively rapid photodegradation with the consequence that the protection from sun damage is lost. One challenge of this invention is therefore to enhance the stability of these specific UV filter combinations.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the use of diphenylacrylates and specific triazine derivatives will enhance the stability of cosmetic and dermatological formulations comprising the combination of specific micronized triazine derivatives and UV absorbers selected from cinnamic acid derivatives and dibenzoyl methane derivatives.

Therefore, the present invention relates to the use of UV absorbers selected from

(ai) diphenylacrylates; and

(8 ₂ ) hydroxyphenyl triazines of formula

Ri is -0-R ₅ ; -COOR ₆ ; or -CO-NHR ₇ ; R ₂ is -0-R ₈ ; -COOR ₉ ; or -CO-NHR ₁₀ ; R ₃ is -O-R11; -COOR12; or -CO-NHR ₁₃ ;

R ₅ , R ₆ , R ₇ , Re, RΘ, Rio, Rn, R12 and R ₁₃ independently from each other are CrC ₁₈ alkyl; R ₄ is hydrogen; or hydroxy; and x is O; or 1 ; for stabilizing cosmetic compositions comprising an organic UV absorber selected from (b-i) a benzophenone derivatives of formula

(2) , wherein Ri ₄ and Ri ₅ independently from each other are; Ci-C ₂ oalkyl; C ₂ -C ₂ oalkenyl; C ₃ -

Ciocycloalkyl; C ₃ -Ciocycloalkenyl; or R ₁₄ and Ri ₅ together with the linking nitrogen atom form a 5- or 6-membered heterocyclic ring; n-i is a number from 1 to 4; , Ri6 is a saturated or unsaturated heterocyclic radical; hydroxy-Ci-C ₅ alkyl; cyclohexyl optionally substituted with one or more CrC ₅ alkyl; phenyl optionally substituted with a heterocyclic radical, aminocarbonyl or Ci-C ₅ alkylcarboxy; Ri6 is an alkylene-, cycloalkylene alkenylene or phenylene radical which is optionally substituted by a carbonyl- or carboxy group; a radical of formula *— CH— C≡C-CH— * or R ₁₆ together with A forms a bivalent radical of the formula (2a) ; wherein

(CH ₂ )

' ² 'n,

n ₂ is a number from 1 to 3;

Ri6 is an alkantriyl radical;

Ri6 is an alkanetetrayl radical; A is -O-; Or -N(R ₁₇ )-; and R ₁₇ is hydrogen; Ci-C ₅ alkyl; or hydroxy-CrC ₅ alkyl; (b ₂ ) a benzotriazole derivative of formula

(3) , wherein

T ₁ is optionally phenyl-substituted CrC ₁₂ alkyl; and (bβ) a triazine derivative of formula - A -

, wherein

A is a radical of formula (4a)

Ri ₇ and R ₂ i independently from each other are hydrogen; d-Ci ₈ alkyl; or C ₆ -Ci ₂ aryl; R ₁₈ , Rig and R ₂ 0 independently from each other are hydrogen; or a radical of formula

(4c) wherein, in formula (4a), at least one of the radicals Ri ₈ ,

Rig and R ₂ o are a radical of formula (4c);

R22, R23, R24, R25 and R ₂ 6 independently from each other are hydrogen; hydroxy; halogen; Ci-Ci ₈ alkyl; Ci-Ci ₈ alkoxy; C ₆ -Ci ₂ aryl; biphenylyl; C ₆ -Ci ₂ aryloxy; Ci-Ci ₈ al- kylthio; carboxy; -COOM; Ci-Ci ₈ -alkylcarboxyl; aminocarbonyl; or mono- or di-d- Ci ₈ alkylamino; Ci-Ci ₀ acylamino; -COOH; M is an alkali metal ion; x is 1 or 2; and y is a number from 2 to 10; and UV filters selected from

(ci) cinnamic acid derivatives; and

(C ₂ ) dibenzoylmethane derivatives.

Ci-Ci ₈ alkyl according to the definition for the radicals of the compound of formula (1 ) are straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals like methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec. butyl, tert. butyl, amyl, isoamyl or tert.amyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, heptyl, octyl, isooctyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl or octadecyl.

Ci-C"i ₈ alkyl according to the definition for the radicals of the compound of formula (1 ) may be substituted by methoxyethyl, ethoxypropyl, 2-ethylhexyl, hydroxyethyl, chloropropyl, N,N-di- ethylaminopropyl, cyanoethyl, phenethyl, benzyl, p-tert-butylphenethyl, p-tert-octylphenoxy- ethyl, 3-(2,4-di-tert-amylphenoxy)-propyl, ethoxycarbonylmethyl-2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethyl, or 2-furylethyl.

CrCisalkyl according to the definition for the radicals of the compound of formula (1 ) are for example methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, isopropoxy, n-butoxy, sec.butoxy, tert.butoxy, amyloxy, isoamyloxy or tert.amyloxy, hexyloxy, heptyloxy, octyloxy, isooctyloxy, nonyloxy, decyloxy, undecyloxy, dodecyloxy, tetradecyloxy, pentadecyloxy, hexadecyloxy, heptadecyloxy or octa- decyloxy.

C ₆ -Ci ₀ aryl according to the definition for the radicals of the compound of formula (1 ) is for example naphthyl und preferably phenyl.

The diphenylacrylates (a-i) are preferably selected from 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl- acrylate, and 3-(benzofuranyl) 2-cyanoacrylate, and more preferably from 2-ethylhexyl 2- cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate.

Preferred hydroxyphenyl triazines correspond to formula

(1 a) , wherein

R ₅ , Rs and Rn independently of one another, are Ci-Ci ₈ alkyl.

Most preferred hydroxyphenyl triazine derivatives according to formula (1a) is bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl triazine.

Further preferred hydroxyphenyl triazines correspond to formula (1 b) , wherein

Ri is -COOR ₆ ; or -CO-NHR ₇ ; R ₂ is -COOR ₉ ; or -CO-NHR ₁₀ ; and R ₃ is -COORi ₂ ; Or -CO-NHR ₁₃ ; wherein

R ₆ , R ₇ , Rg, Rio, Ri ₂ and Ri ₃ independently of each other are Ci-Ci ₂ alkyl, preferably 2- ethylhexyl.

Most preferred hydroxyphenyl triazine derivative according to formula (1a) is Ethylhexyl triazone and dioctyl butamido triazone.

If in formula (2) (for the benzophenone derivatives (bi)) ni is preferably defined as the number 2,

Ri ₆ is a Ci-Ci ₂ alkylene radical; and

Ri ₄ , Ri5 and A are defined as in formula (2).

Preferably the benzophenone derivative (bi) corresponds to formula

(2a) , wherein

Ri ₄ and Ri ₅ are hydrogen; or d-C ₅ alkyl.

Most preferably the benzophenone derivative (bi) corresponds to formula

Most preferred benzotriazole derivative according to component (b ₂ ) is 2,2'-methanediylbis[6- (2/-/-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(2,4,4-trimethylpentan-2-yl)pheno l] (Bisotrizole), which corresponds to the compound of formula

The benzophenone derivatives (b) according to formulas (2) to (4) are preferably used in the micronized state.

Preferred compounds according to component (b ₃ ) correspond to the formula

(4e) , wherein

Ri7, R21, R22, R23 und R ₂₄ are defined as in formula (4). More preferred are compounds of formula (4), wherein R ₁₇ and R ₂ i are hydrogen.

Most preferred are the compounds of formual

These the organic UV absorbers (bi), (b ₂ ) and (b ₃ ) are characterized by a poor oil-solubility and a high melting point. They are therefore suitable in particular as UV absorbers in the micronized state.

They may be prepared by any known process suitable for the preparation of microparticles, for example wet-milling, wet-kneading, spray-drying from a suitable solvent, by expansion according to the RESS process (Rapid Expansion of Supercritical Solutions) of supercritical fluids (e.g. CO ₂ , by reprecipitation from suitable solvents, including supercritical fluids (GASR process = Gas Anti-Solvent Recrystallisation / PCA process = precipitation with Compressed Anti-solvents).

As milling apparatus for the preparation of the sparingly soluble micronized organic compounds there may be used, for example, a jet mill, ball mill, vibratory mill or hammer mill, preferably a high-speed mixing mill. Even more preferable mills are modern ball mills; manufacturers of these types of mill are, for example, Netzsch (LMZ mill), Drais (DCP- Viscoflow or Cosmo), Bϋhler AG (centrifugal mills) or Bachhofer.

Examples of kneading apparatus for the preparation of the micronized organic UV absorbers are typical sigma-blade batch kneaders but also serial batch kneaders (IKA-Werke) or continuous kneaders (Continua from Werner und Pfleiderer). The grinding of the sparingly soluble organic compounds used in the present invention is preferably carried out with a grinding aid.

The dispersing agent is used as a low molecular weight grinding aid for all the above micronization processes.

Useful anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants are disclosed below in the sections entitled "specific dispersing agents".

Preferred useful grinding aids for an aqueous dispersion are anionic surfactants with a HLB (Hydrophile-JJpophile balance) value higher than 8, more preferably higher than 10.

Specific dispersing agents

Any conventionally usable anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants can be used as dispersing agents. Such surfactant systems may comprise for example: carboxylic acids and their salts: alkaline soap of sodium, potassium and ammonium, metallic soap of calcium or magnesium, organic basis soap such as Laurie, myristic, palmitic, stearic and oleic acid etc., alkyl phosphates or phosphoric acid esters, acid phosphate, diethanolamine phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, ethoxylated carboxylic acids or polyethyleneglycol esters, PEG-n acylates. Fatty alcohol polyglycolether such as laureth-n, myreth-n, ceteareth-n, steareth-n, oleth-n. fatty acid polyglycolether such as PEG-n stearate, PEG-n oleate, PEG-n cocoate, monoglycerides and polyol esters, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and di-esters of addition products of from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide with polyols, fatty acid and polyglycerol ester such as monostearate glycerol, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3-diisostearates, polyglyceryl-3-diisostea- rates, triglyceryl diisostearates, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearates or polyglyceryl dimerates. Mixtures of compounds from a plurality of those substance classes are also suitable. Fatty acid polyglycolesters such as monostearate diethylene glycol, fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters, fatty acid and saccharose esters such as sucro esters, glycerol and saccharose esters such as sucro glycerides. Sorbitol and sorbitan, sorbitan mono- and di-esters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and ethylene oxide addition products, polysorbate-n series, sorbitan esters such as sesquiisostearate, sorbitan, PEG-(6)-isostearate sorbitan, PEG-(10)-sorbitan laurate, PEG-17- dioleate sorbitan, glucose derivatives, C8-C22 alkyl-mono and oligo-glycosides and ethoxylated analogues with glucose being preferred as the sugar component, O/W emulsifiers such as methyl gluceth-20 sesquistearate, sorbitan stearate/sucrose cocoate, methyl glucose sesquistearate, cetearyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside, W/O emulsifiers such as methyl glucose dioleate/ methyl glucose isostearate. Sulfates and sulfonated derivatives, dialkylsulfosuccinat.es, dioctyl succinate, alkyl lauryl sulfonate, linear sulfonated paraffins, sulfonated tetrapropylene sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfates, ammonium and ethanolamine lauryl sulfates, lauryl ether sulfates, sodium laureth sulfates [Texapon N70] or sodium myreth sulfates [Texapon K14S], sulfosuccinates, acetyl isothionates, alkanolamide sulfates, taurines, methyl taurines, imidazole sulfates. Zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants that carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and/or sulfonate group in the molecule. Zwitterionic surfactants that are especially suitable are betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl- 3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and also cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate, N-alkylbetaine, N- alkylaminobetaines.

Examples of suitable mild surfactants as dispersing agents, that is to say surfactants especially well tolerated by the skin, include fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and/or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ethercarbo- xylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines and/or protein fatty acid condensation products, the latter preferably being based on wheat proteins.

Non ionic surfactants such as PEG-6 beeswax (and) PEG-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl - 2-isostearate [Apifac], glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate. [Arlacel 165], PEG-5 glyceryl stearate [arlatone 983 S], sorbitan oleate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate. [Arlacel 1689], sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate [arlatone 2121], glyceryl stearate and laureth- 23 [Cerasynth 945], cetearyl alcohol and ceteth-20 [Cetomacrogol Wax], cetearyl alcohol and colysorbate 60 and PEG-150 and stearate-20[Polawax GP 200, Polawax NF], cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl polyglucoside [Emulgade PL 1618], cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20 [Emulgade 1000NI, Cosmowax], cetearyl alcohol and PEG-40 castor oil [Emulgade F Special], cetearyl alcohol and PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetearyl sulfate [Emulgade F], stearyl alcohol and steareth-7 and steareth-10 [Emulgator E 2155], cetearyl alcohol and szeareth-7 and steareth-10 [Emulsifying wax U. S. N. F], glyceryl stearate and PEG-75 ste- arate [Gelot 64], propylene glycol ceteth-3 acetate .[Hetester PCS], propylene glycol isoceth- 3 acetate [Hetester PHA], cetearyl alcohol and ceteth-12 and oleth-12 [Lanbritol Wax N 21], PEG -6 stearate and PEG-32 stearate [Tefose 1500], PEG-6 stearate and ceteth-20 and steareth-20 [Tefose 2000], PEG-6 stearate and ceteth-20 and glyceryl stearate and steareth- 20 [Tefose 2561], glyceryl stearate and ceteareth-20 [Teginacid H, C, X].

Anionic emulsifiers such as PEG-2 stearate SE, glyceryl stearate SE [Monelgine, Cutina KD], propylene glycol stearate [Tegin P], cetearyl Alcohol and Sodium cetearyl sulfate [Lanette N, Cutina LE, Crodacol GP], cetearyl alcohol and sodium lauryl sulfate [Lanette W], trilaneth-4 phopshate and glycol stearate and PEG-2 stearate [Sedefos 75], glyceryl stearate and sodium lauryl Sulfate [Teginacid Special]. Cationic acid bases such as cetearyl alcohol and cetrimonium bromide.

Most preferred dispersing agents are sodium alkyl sulfates or sodium alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium laureth sulfate [Texapon N70 from Cognis] or sodium myreth sulfate [Texapon K14 S from Cognis].

The specific dispersing agents may be used in an amount of, for example, from 1 to 30 % by weight, especially from 2 to 20 % by weight and preferably from 3 to 10 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Useful solvents are water, brine, (poly-)ethylene glycol, glycerol or cosmetically acceptable oils. Other useful solvents are disclosed below in the sections entitled "Esters of fatty acids", "Natural and synthetic triglycerides, including glyceryl esters and derivatives", "Pearlescent waxes", "Hydrocarbon oils" and "Silicones or siloxanes".

The micronized sparingly soluble organic compounds so obtained usually have an average particle size from 0.02 to 2 micrometres, preferably from 0.03 to 1.5 micrometres and more especially from 0.05 to 1.0 micrometres.

The micronized UV absorbers according to component (bi), (b ₂ ) and (b ₃ ) of the present invention are used as aqueous dispersions, which comprise

30 - 60, preferably 35 to 55 parts of the sparingly soluble organic micronized substance according to component (bi), (b ₂ ) or (b ₃ ) respecitvely; 2 - 20, preferably 2 to 20 parts of the dispersing agent;

0.1 - 1 part, preferably 0.1 to 0.5 parts of a thickening agent (for example xanthan gum); and

20 - 68 parts of water.

The compounds according to component (bi), (b ₂ ) or (b ₃ ) have also a stabilizing effect for UV absorbers selected from ethyl hexyl triazine and dioctyl butamido triazone.

The cinnamic acid derivatives (ci) preferably correspond to the formula

( ⁵ ) , wherein

R ₂ 7 and R ₂ S independently from each other; are hydrogen; hydroxy; Ci-C ₅ alkyl; or d-C ₅ alko- xy; and R ₂₉ is Ci-C ₅ alkyl.

Most preferred cinnamic acid derivative (ci) is 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate.

The dibenzoylmethane derivative (c ₂ ) is preferably selected from 4-(tert-butyl)-4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane.

Most preferably, the present invention relates to the use of UV absorbers selected from

(ai) diphenylacrylates; and

(a ₂ ) hydroxyphenyl triazines of formula (1 ) for stabilizing cosmetic compositions comprising

(b) a benzophenone derivative of formula (2); and UV filters selected from

(ci) cinnamic acid derivatives; and

(C ₂ ) dibenzoylmethane derivatives.

Most preferably, the present invention relates to the use of UV absorbers selected from

(ai) diphenylacrylates; and

(a ₂ ) hydroxyphenyl triazines of formula (1 ); for stabilizing a cosmetic composition comprising

(b) a benzophenone derivative of formula (2b); and (ci) a cinnamic acid derivative.

Most preferably, the present invention relates to the use of UV absorbers selected from

(ai) diphenylacrylates;

(a ₂ ) hydroxyphenyl triazines of formula (1 ) for stabilizing a cosmetic composition comprising

(b) a benzophenone derivative of formula (2b); and

(C ₂ ) a dibenzoylmethane derivative.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising

0.1 to 10 % b.w. of a diphenylacrylate (ai) and/or hydroxyphenyl triazine (a ₂ );

0.1 to 10. % b.w. of an organic UV absorber selected from a benzophenone derivative (bi); a benzotriazole derivative (b ₂ ) and a triazine derivative (bβ); and

0.1 to 10 % b.w. of a cinnamic acid derivative (ci) and/or a dibenzoylmethane derivative (c ₂ ); wherein the UV filters (ai), (a ₂ ), (bi), (b ₂ ), (b ₃ ), (ci) and (c ₂ ) are defined as in claim 1.

Preferred are also cosmetic compositions comprising

0.1 to 10 % b.w. of a diphenylacrylate (ai) and/or hydroxyphenyl triazine (a ₂ );

0.1 to 10. % b.w. of a benzophenone derivative (bi); and

0.1 to 10 % b.w. of a cinnamic acid derivative (ci) and/or a dibenzoylmethane derivative (c ₂ ); wherein the UV filters (ai), (a ₂ ), (bi), (ci) and (c ₂ ) are defined as in claim 1.

The present invention also relates to the Use of UV absorbers selected from

(bi) a benzophenone derivative of formula (2);

(b ₂ ) a benzotriazole derivative of formula (3); and

(bβ) a triazine derivative of formula (4) for stabilizing cosmetic compositions comprising

(a ₂ ) a hydroxyphenyl triazine of formula (1 ), wherein the compounds of formulas (1 ), (2), (3) and (4) are defined as in claim 1.

The cosmetic formulations or pharmaceutical compositions according to the present invention may additionally contain one or more than one further UV filter as listed in Tables 1 and 2. Table 1. Suitable UV filter substances which can be additionally used with the UV absorbers according to the present invention p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, for example 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester; salicylic acid derivatives, for example salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester; benzophenone derivatives, for example 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and its 5-sulfonic acid derivative;

3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and esters; benzofuran derivatives, especially 2-(p-amino phenyl)benzofuran derivatives, described in EP-A-582 189, US-A-5 338 539, US-A-5 518 713 and EP-A-613 893; polymeric UV absorbers, for example the benzylidene malonate derivatives described in EP-A-709 080; camphor derivatives, for example 3-(4'-methyl)benzylidene-bornan-2-one, 3-benzylidene- bornan-2-one, N-[2(and 4)-2-oxyborn-3-ylidene-methyl)-benzyl]acrylamide polymer, 3-(4'- trimethylammonium)-benzylidene-bornan-2-one methyl sulfate, 3,3'-(1 ,4-phenylenedi- methine)-bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptane-1-meth anesulfonic acid) and salts, 3- (4'-sulfo)benzylidene-bornan-2-one and salts; camphorbenzalkonium methosulfate; benzotriazole compounds, for example 2,2'-methylene-bis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4- (1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol; trianilino-s-triazine derivatives, for example 2,4,6-trianiline-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-oxy)-1 ,3,5- triazine and the UV absorbers disclosed in US-A-5 332 568, EP-A-517 104, EP-A-507 691 , WO 93/17002 and EP-A-570 838;

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and salts thereof; menthyl o-aminobenzoates; inorganic particulate sunscreens coated or not such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxides, mica, MnO, Fe ₂ O ₃ , Ce ₂ O ₃ , AI ₂ O ₃ , ZrO ₂ . (surface coatings: polymethylmethacrylate, methicone (methylhydrogenpolysiloxane as described in CAS 9004-73-3), dimethicone, isopropyl titanium triisostearate (as described in CAS 61417-49-0), metal soaps as magnesium stearate (as described in CAS 4086-70-8), perfluoroalcohol phosphate as C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate (as described in CAS 74499-44-8; JP 5-86984 , JP 4-330007)). The primary particle size is an average of 5nm-35nm and the particle size in dispersion is in the range of 100nm - 300nm. aminohydroxy-benzophenone derivatives disclosed in DE 10011317, EP 1 133980 and EP 1046391 phenyl-benzimidazole derivatives as disclosed in EP 1167358

The cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations can be prepared by physically mixing the UV absorbers (ai) (a ₂ ), (bi) (b ₂ ), (b ₃ ), and (ci) and (c ₂ ) and optionally further UV absorbers with the adjuvant using customary methods, for example by simply stirring together the individual components.

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations contain from 0.05-40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of the UV absorber mixture of the present invention.

The UV absorber mixture according to the present invention is useful to protect skin, hair and/or natural or artificial hair color.

The cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations may be, for example, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax/fat compositions, stick preparations, powders or ointments. In addition to the above mentioned UV filters, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations may contain further adjuvants as described below.

As water- and oil-containing emulsions (e.g. VWO, O/W, 0/W/O and W/O/W emulsions or microemulsions) the preparations contain, for example, from 0.1 to 30 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15 % by weight and especially from 0.5 to 10 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more UV absorbers, from 1 to 60 % by weight, especially from 5 to 50 % by weight and preferably from 10 to 35 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil component, from 0 to 30 % by weight, especially from 1 to 30 % by weight und preferably from 4 to 20 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one emulsifier, from 10 to 90 % by weight, especially from 30 to 90 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of water, and from 0 to 88.9 % by weight, especially from 1 to 50 % by weight, of further cosmetically acceptable adjuvants.

The cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions/preparations according to the invention may also contain one or one more additional compounds as described below.

Fatty alcohols

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having from 6 to 18, preferably from 8 to 10 carbon atoms including cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols, acetylated lanolin alcohol, etc..

Esters of fatty acids

Esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₄ fatty acids with linear C ₃ -C ₂₄ alcohols, esters of branched C ₆ -Ci ₃ car- boxylic acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₄ fatty acids with branched alcohols, especially 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, especially dioctyl malates, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (for example propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, for example caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and technical-grade mixtures thereof (obtained, for example, in the pressure removal of natural fats and oils, in the reduction of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerisation of unsaturated fatty acids) with alcohols, for example, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethyl- hexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroseli- nyl alcohol, linoyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical-grade mixtures thereof (obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical-grade methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as monomer fractions in the dimerisation of unsaturated fatty alcohols).

Examples of such ester oils are isopropylmyristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropylstearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyloleate, n-butylstearate, n-hexyllaurate, n-decyloleate, isooctyl- stearate, iso-nonylstearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexylpalmitate, 2-hexyllaurate, 2- hexyldecylstearate, 2-octyldodecylpalmitate, oleyloleate, oleylerucate, erucyloleate, erucyl- erucate, cetearyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl acetate, myristyl myristate, myristyl behenate, myristyl oleate, myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl lactate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/caprate, stearyl heptanoate, diisostearyl malate, octyl hydroxystearate, etc..

Other adjuvants alpha glucosylrutin (CAS No. 130603-71-3), 2-butyloctyl o-hydroxybenzoate (CAS No. 190085-41-7), vitamin E (CAS No. 1406-18-4), vitamin E acetate (CAS No. 58-95-7), diethylhexyl 2,6- naphthalate, di-n-butyl adipate, di(2-ethylhexyl)-adipate, di(2-ethylhexyl)- succinate and diisotridecyl acetate, and also diol esters, such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, butanediol diisostearate and neopentyl glycol dicaprylate. Esters of C6-C ₂₄ fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, saturated and/or unsaturated, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -Ci ₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and from 2 to 6 hydroxy groups, or iminodisuccinic acid and imi- ondisuccinic acid salts [CAS 7408-20-0] or latex particles, aloe vera, chamomile, ginko bilo- ba, ginseng, coenzyme Q10, laminaria ochroleuca extract, magnolia oborata extract, mela- lenca alternifolia leaf oil, rubus idaeus seed oil, vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil, pumpkin seed extract, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed extract, carnosine, alpha-arbutin, madecasso- side, termino-laside, tetrahydrocurcuminoids (THC), mycosporines, mycosporine like amino acids from the red alga porphyra umbilicalis, mycosporine-like amino acids (as described in WO2002039974), cis-9-octadecenedioic acid, lipoic acid, laurimino dipropiomic acid toco- pheryl phosphates (LDTP), microcrystalline cellulose (MCC), polycarbonates as described in WO 0341676, sterols (cholesterol, lanosterol, phytosterols), as described in WO0341675 and linear poly-alpha-glucans as described in US6616935

Natural or synthetic triglycerides including glyceryl esters and derivatives Di- or tri-glycerides, based on C ₆ -Ci ₈ fatty acids, modified by reaction with other alcohols (caprylic/capric triglyceride, wheat germ glycerides, etc.). Fatty acid esters of polyglycerin (polyglyceryl-n such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, etc. or castor oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil, sweet almond oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, corn oil, hydrogenated castor oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, soybean oil, mink oil, sunflower oil, safflower oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, hydrogenated tallow, apricot kernel oil, hazelnut oil, borago oil, etc.

Waxes including esters of long-chain acids and alcohols as well as compounds having wax- like properties, e.g., carnauba wax, beeswax (white or yellow), lanolin wax, candellila wax, ozokerite, japan wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, cetearyl esters wax, synthetic beeswax, etc. Also, hydrophilic waxes as Cetearyl Alcohol or partial glycerides.

Pearlescent waxes:

Alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coco fatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monogly- ceride; esters of polyvalent, unsubstituted or hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chained esters of tartaric acid; fatty substances, for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which in total have at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distea- ryl ether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring-opening products of olefin epoxides having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols having from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, and mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbon oils:

Mineral oil (light or heavy), petrolatum (yellow or white), microcrystalline wax, paraffinic and isoparaffinic compounds, hydrogenated isoparaffinic molecules as polydecenes and polybu- tene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, squalane, isohexadecane, isododecane and others from plant and animal kingdom.

Silicones or siloxanes (organosubstituted polvsiloxanes)

Dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones, and also amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which at room temperature may be in either liquid or resinous form. Linear polysilo- xanes, dimethicone (Dow Corning 200 fluid, Rhodia Mirasil DM), dimethiconol, cyclic silicone fluids, cyclopentasiloxanes volatiles (Dow Corning 345 fluid), phenyltrimethicone (Dow Corning 556 fluid). Also suitable are simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones having an average chain length of from 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units with hydrogenated silicates. A detailed survey by Todd et al. of suitable volatile silicones may in addition be found in Cosm. Toil. 91 , 27 (1976).

Fluorinated or perfluorinated oils

Perfluorhexane, dimethylcyclohexane, ethylcyclopentane, polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether.

Emulsifiers

Any conventionally usable emulsifier can be used for the compositions. Emulsifier systems may comprise for example: carboxylic acids and their salts: alkaline soap of sodium, potassium and ammonium, metallic soap of calcium or magnesium, organic basis soap such as Laurie, palmitic, stearic and oleic acid etc.. Alkyl phosphates or phosphoric acid esters, acid phosphate, diethanolamine phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate. Ethoxylated carboxylic acids or polyethyleneglycol esters, PEG-n acylates. Linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, branched from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or from 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide with fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Fatty alcohol polyglycolether such as laureth-n, ceteareth-n, steareth-n, oleth-n. Fatty acid polyglycolether such as PEG-n stearate, PEG-n oleate, PEG-n cocoate. Monoglycerides and polyol esters. C12-C22 fatty acid mono- and di- esters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with polyols. Fatty acid and polyglycerol ester such as monostearate glycerol, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3-diisostearates, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearates, triglyceryl diisostearates, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearates or polyglyceryl dimerates. Mixtures of compounds from a plurality of those substance classes are also suitable. Fatty acid polyglycolesters such as monostearate diethylene glycol, fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters, fatty acid and saccharose esters such as sucro esters, glycerol and saccharose esters such as sucro glycerides. Sorbitol and sorbitan, sorbitan mono- and di-esters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and ethylene oxide addition products. Polysorbate-n series, sorbitan esters such as sesquiisostearate, sorbitan, PEG-(6)-isostearate sorbitan, PEG-(10)-sorbitan laurate, PEG- 17- dioleate sorbitan. Glucose derivatives, C8-C22 alkyl-mono and oligo-glycosides and ethoxylated analogues with glucose being preferred as the sugar component. O/W emulsifiers such as methyl gluceth-20 sesquistearate, sorbitan stearate/sucrose cocoate, methyl glucose sesquistearate, cetearyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside. VWO emulsifiers such as methyl glucose dioleate/ methyl glucose isostearate. Sulfates and sulfonated derivatives, dialkyl- sulfosuccinates, dioctyl succinate, alkyl lauryl sulfonate, linear sulfonated paraffins, sulfonated tetrapropylene sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfates, ammonium and ethanolamine lauryl sulfates, lauryl ether sulfates, sodium laureth sulfates, sulfosuccinates, acetyl isothionates, alkanolamide sulfates, taurines, methyl taurines, imidazole sulfates. Amine derivatives, amine salts, ethoxylated amines, oxide amine with chains containing an heterocycle such as alkyl imidazolines, pyridine derivatives, isoquinoteines, cetyl pyridinium chloride, cetyl pyridinium bromide, quaternary ammonium such as cetyltrimethylbroide ammonium bromide (CTBA), stearylalkonium. Amide derivatives, alkanolamides such as acylamide DEA, ethoxylated amides such as PEG-n acylamide, oxydeamide. Polysiloxane/polyalkyl/polyether copolymers and derivatives, dimethicone, copolyols, silicone polyethylene oxide copolymer, silicone glycol copolymer. Propoxylated or POE-n ethers (Meroxapols), Polaxamers or poly(oxyethylene)m-block-poly(oxypropylene)n-block(oxyethyle ne). Zwitterionic surfactants that carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and/or sulfonate group in the molecule. Zwitterionic surfactants that are especially suitable are betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, cocoacylaminopropyl- dimethylammonium glycinate and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and also cocoacylaminoethylhy- droxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate, N-alkylbetaine, N-alkylaminobetaines. Alkylimidazolines, alkylopeptides, lipoaminoacides, self emulsifying bases and the compounds as described in K.F. DePoIo, A short textbook of cosmetology, Chapter 8, Table 8-7, p250-251.

Nonionic emulsifiers such as PEG-6 beeswax (and) PEG-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl-2-iso- stearate [Apifac], glyceryl stearate ( and) PEG-100 stearate. [Arlacel 165], PEG-5 glyceryl stearate [arlatone 983 S], sorbitan oleate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate. [Arlacel 1689], sor- bitan stearate and sucrose cocoate [arlatone 2121], glyceryl stearate and laureth-23 [Cera- synth 945], cetearyl alcohol and ceteth-20 [Cetomacrogol Wax], cetearyl alcohol and coly- sorbate 60 and PEG-150 and stearate-20[Polawax GP 200, Polawax NF], cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl polyglucoside [Emulgade PL 1618], cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20 [Emul- gade 1000NI, Cosmowax], cetearyl alcohol and PEG-40 castor oil [Emulgade F Special], cetearyl alcohol and PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetearyl sulfate [Emulgade F], stearyl alcohol and steareth-7 and steareth-10 [Emulgator E 2155], cetearyl alcohol and steareth-7 and steareth-10 [Emulsifying wax U. S. N. F], glyceryl stearate and PEG-75 stearate [Gelot 64], propylene glycol ceteth-3 acetate .[Hetester PCS], propylene glycol isoceth-3 acetate [Hetester PHA], cetearyl alcohol and ceteth-12 and oleth-12 [Lanbritol Wax N 21], PEG -6 stearate and PEG-32 stearate [Tefose 1500], PEG-6 stearate and ceteth-20 and steareth-20 [Tefose 2000], PEG-6 stearate and ceteth-20 and glyceryl stearate and steareth-20 [Tefose 2561], glyceryl stearate and ceteareth-20 [Teginacid H, C, X].

Anionic emulsifiers such as PEG-2 stearate SE, glyceryl stearate SE [Monelgine, Cutina KD], propylene glycol stearate [Tegin P], cetearyl Alcohol and Sodium cetearyl sulfate [Lanette N, Cutina LE, Crodacol GP], cetearyl alcohol and sodium lauryl sulfate [Lanette W], trilaneth-4 phopshate and glycol stearate and PEG-2 stearate [Sedefos 75], glyceryl stearate and sodium lauryl Sulfate [Teginacid Special]. Cationic acid bases such as cetearyl alcohol and cetrimonium bromide.

The emulsifiers may be used in an amount of, for example, from 1 to 30 % by weight, especially from 4 to 20 % by weight and preferably from 5 to 10 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

When formulated in O/W emulsions, the preferably amount of such emulsifier system could represent 5% to 20% of the oil phase.

Adjuvants and additives

The cosmetic / pharmaceutical preparations, for example creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax/fat compositions, stick preparations, powders or ointments, may in addition contain, as further adjuvants and additives, mild surfactants, super-fatting agents, consistency regulators, thickeners, polymers, stabilisers, biogenic active ingredients, deodorising active ingredients, anti-dandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, further UV light-protective factors, antioxidants, hydrotropic agents, preservatives, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, solubilisers, perfume oils, colourants, bacteria-inhibiting agents and the like.

Super-fatting agents

Substances suitable for use as super-fatting agents are, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acrylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the latter simultaneously acting as foam stabilisers. Surfactants

Examples of suitable mild surfactants, that is to say surfactants especially well tolerated by the skin, include fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and/or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines and/or protein fatty acid condensation products, the latter preferably being based on wheat proteins.

Consistency regulators/thickeners and rheology modifiers

Silicium dioxide, magnesium silicates, aluminium silicates, polysaccharides or derivatives thereof for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates, carra- ghenan, gellan, pectines, or modified cellulose such as hydroxycellulose, hydroxypropylme- thylcellulose. In addition polyacrylates or homopolymer of reticulated acrylic acids and poly- acrylamides, carbomer (carbopol types 980, 981 , 1382, ETD 2001 , ETD2020, Ultrez 10) or Salcare range such as Salcare SC80(steareth-10 allyl ether/acrylates copolymer), Salcare SC81 (acrylates copolymer), Salcare SC91 and Salcare AST(sodium acrylates copolymer/- PPG-1 trideceth-6), sepigel 305(polyacrylamide/laureth-7), Simulgel NS and Simulgel EG (hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer), Stabilen 30 (acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer), Pemulen TR-1 (acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspo- lymer), Luvigel EM (sodium acrylates copolymer), Aculyn 28 (acrylates/beheneth-25 meth- acrylate copolymer), etc.

Polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, for example a quaternized hydroxymethyl cellulose obtainable under the name Polymer JR 400 from Amer- chol, cationic starches, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quarternised vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers, for example Luviquat ^® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternised collagen polypeptides, for example lauryldimo- nium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat ^® L/Grϋnau), quaternised wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, for example amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretin/Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat 550 / Chem- viron), polyaminopolyamides, as described, for example, in FR-A-2 252 840, and the cross- linked water-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin derivatives, for example of quaternised chitosan, optionally distributed as microcrystals; condensation products of dihaloalkyls, for example dibromobutane, with bisdialkylamines, for example bisdimethylamino-1 ,3-propane, cationic guar gum, for example Jaguar C-17, Jaguar C-16 from Celanese, quaternised ammonium salt polymers, for example Mirapol A-15, Mirapol AD-1 , Mirapol AZ- 1 from Mira- nol. As anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and non-ionic polymers there come into consideration, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked polyacrylic acids and poly- acrylic acids crosslinked with polyols, acrylamidopropyl-trimethylammonium chloride /acrylate copolymers, octyl acrylamide/methyl methacrylatetert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2- hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and also optionally derivatised cellulose ethers and silicones. Furthermore the polymers as described in EP 1093796 (pages 3-8, paragraphs 17-68) may be used.

Biogenic active ingredients

Biogenic active ingredients are to be understood as meaning, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

Deodorising active ingredients

As deodorising active ingredients there come into consideration, for example, antiper- spirants, for example aluminium chlorohydrates (see J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 24, 281 (1973)). Under the trade mark Locron ^® of Hoechst AG, Frankfurt (FRG), there is available comer- cially, for example, an aluminium chlorohydrate corresponding to formula AI ₂ (OH) ₅ CI x 2.5 H ₂ O, the use of which is especially preferred (see J. Pharm. Pharmacol. 26, 531 (1975)). Besides the chlorohydrates, it is also possible to use aluminium hydroxyacetates and acidic aluminium/zirconium salts. Esterase inhibitors may be added as further deodorising active ingredients. Such inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and especially triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT, Hen- kel), which inhibit enzyme activity and hence reduce odour formation. Further substances that come into consideration as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, for example lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid mono- ethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester and hydroxycarboxylic acids and esters thereof, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester. Antibacterial active ingredients that influence the germ flora and kill or inhibit the growth of sweat-decomposing bacteria can likewise be present in the preparations (especially in stick preparations). Examples include chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. 5- chloro-2-(2,4-dichlorophenoxy)-phenol (Triclosan, Irgasan, Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc.) has also proved especially effective.

Anti-dandruff agents

As anti-dandruff agents there may be used, for example, climbazole, octopirox and zinc pyri- thione. Customary film formers include, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, qua- ternised chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of quaternary cellulose derivatives containing a high proportion of acrylic acid, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar compounds.

Antioxidants

In addition to the primary light-protective substances it is also possible to use secondary light-protective substances of the antioxidant kind that interrupt the photochemical reaction chain triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin or hair. Typical examples of such antioxidants are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (e.g. anserine), carotinoids, carotenes, lycopene and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglycose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl, lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and also salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodi- propionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and also sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, hepta-thionine sulfoximine), also (metal) chelating agents (e.g. hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid phytic acid, lactoferrin), hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EDDS, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (e.g. linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (e.g. vitamin A palmitate) and also coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, superoxide dismutase, N-[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy- phenyl)propionyl]sulfanilic acid (and salts thereof, for example the disodium salts), zinc and derivatives thereof (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and derivatives thereof (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbene and derivatives thereof (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of those mentioned active ingredients. HALS (="Hindered Amine Light Stabilizers") compounds may also be mentioned.

Further synthetic and natural antioxidants are listed e.g. in WO 0025731 :

Structures 1-3 (page 2), structure 4 (page 6), structures 5-6 (page 7) and compounds 7-33

(page 8-14).

The amount of antioxidants present is usually from 0.001 to 30 % by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 3 % by weight, based on the weight of the UV absorber of formula (1 ).

Hydrotropic agents

To improve the flow behaviour it is also possible to employ hydrotropic agents, for example ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono-alcohols, diols or polyols with a low number of carbon atoms or their ethers (e.g. ethanol, isopropanol, 1 ,2-dipropanediol, propyleneglycol, glycerine, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethylether, ethylene glycol monobutylether, propylene glycol monomethylether, propylene glycol monoethylether, propylene glycol monobutylether, diethylene glycol monomethylether; diethylene glycol monoethylether, diethylene glycol monobutylether and similar products). The polyols that come into consideration for that purpose have preferably from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxy groups. The polyols may also contain further functional groups, especially amino groups, and/or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are as follows: glycerol, alkylene glycols, for example ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and also polyethylene glycols having an average molecular weight of from 100 to 1000 DaI- ton; technical oligoglycerol mixtures having an intrinsic degree of condensation of from 1.5 to 10, for example technical diglycerol mixtures having a diglycerol content of from 40 to 50 % by weight; methylol compounds, such as, especially, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol; lower alkyl-glucosides, especially those having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical, for example methyl and butyl glu- coside; sugar alcohols having from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example sorbitol or mannitol; sugars having from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or saccharose; amino sugars, for example glucamine; dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1 ,3- propanediol.

Preservatives

Suitable preservatives include, for example, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Butyl- parabens, Benzal- konium chloride, 2-Bromo-2-nitro-propane-1 ,3-diol, Dehydroacetic acid, Diazolidinyl Urea, 2- Dichloro-benzyl alcohol, DMDM hydantoin, Formaldehyde solution, Methyldibromogluta- nitrile, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Triclosan and further substance classes listed in the following reference: K.F. DePoIo - A short textbook of cosmetology, Chapter 7, Table 7-2, 7-3, 7-4 and 7-5, p210-219.

Bacteria-inhibiting agents

Typical examples of bacteria-inhibiting agents are preservatives that have a specific action against gram-positive bacteria, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, chlorhexi- dine (1 ,6-di(4-chlorophenyl-biguanido)hexane) or TCC (3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide). A large number of aromatic substances and ethereal oils also have antimicrobial properties. Typical examples are the active ingredients eugenol, menthol and thymol in clove oil, mint oil and thyme oil. A natural deodorising agent of interest is the terpene alcohol farnesol (3,7,11-tri- methyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), which is present in lime blossom oil. Glycerol monolaurate has also proved to be a bacteriostatic agent. The amount of the additional bacteria-inhibiting agents present is usually from 0.1 to 2 % by weight, based on the solids content of the preparations. Perfume oils

There may be mentioned as perfume oils mixtures of natural and/or synthetic aromatic substances. Natural aromatic substances are, for example, extracts from blossom (lilies, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), from stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petit- grain), from fruit (aniseed, coriander, carraway, juniper), from fruit peel (bergamot, lemons, oranges), from roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), from wood (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiacum wood, cedarwood, rosewood), from herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), from needles and twigs (spruce, pine, Scots pine, mountain pine), from resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opo- ponax). Animal raw materials also come into consideration, for example civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic aromatic substances are, for example, products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol or hydrocarbon type. Aromatic substance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, Ii- nalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, allylcyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether; the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having from 8 to 18 hydrocarbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citro- nellyl oxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal; the ketones include, for example, the ionones, isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone; the alcohols include, for example, anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenyl ethyl alcohol and terpinol; and the hydrocarbons include mainly the terpenes and balsams. It is preferable, however, to use mixtures of various aromatic substances that together produce an attractive scent. Ethereal oils of relatively low volatility, which are chiefly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, oil of cinnamon leaves, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preference is given to the use of bergamot oil, dihy- dromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenyl ethyl alcohol, hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, damascone, bourbon geranium oil, cyclohexyl salicylate, vertofix coeur, iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenyl acetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillat, irotyl and floramat alone or in admixture with one another. Colorants

There may be used as colorants the substances that are suitable and permitted for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Kosmetische Farbemittel" of the Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106. The colorants are usually used in concentrations of from 0.001 to 0.1 % by weight, based on the total mixture.

Other adjuvants

It is furthermore possible for the cosmetic preparations to contain, as adjuvants, anti-foams, such as silicones, structurants, such as maleic acid, solubilizers, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol or diethylene glycol, opacifiers, such as latex, styrene/PVP or sty- rene/acrylamide copolymers, complexing agents, such as EDTA, NTA, alaninediacetic acid or phosphonic acids, propellants, such as propane/butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , N ₂ or air, so-called coupler and developer components as oxidation dye precursors, reducing agents, such as thioglycolic acid and derivatives thereof, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid or mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, or oxidising agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate or sodium bromate.

Suitable insect repellents are, for example, N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1 ,2-pentanediol or insect repellent 3535; suitable self-tanning agents are, for example, dihydroxyacetone and/or erythrulose or dihydroxy acetone and/or dihydroxy acetone precursors as described in WO 01/85124 and/or erythrulose.

Polymeric beads or hollow spheres as SPF enhancers

The combination of the UV-absorbers and UV-absorber combinations, listed above, with SPF enhancers, such as non-active ingredients like Styrene/acrylates copolymer, silica beads, spheroidal magnesium silicate, crosslinked Polymethylmethacrylates (PMMA ; Micopearl M305 Seppic), can maximize better the UV protection of the sun products. Holosphere additives (Sunspheres® ISP, Silica Shells Kobo.) deflect radiation and the effective path length of the photon is therefore increased. ( EP08931 19). Some beads, as mentioned previously, provide a soft feel during spreading. Moreover, the optical activity of such beads, e.g.Micropearl M305, cans modulate skin shine by eliminating reflection phenomena and indirectly may scatter the UV light. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations are contained in a wide variety of cosmetic preparations. There come into consideration, for example, especially the following preparations:

skin-care preparations, e.g. skin-washing and cleansing preparations in the form of tablet-form or liquid soaps, soapless detergents or washing pastes, bath preparations, e.g. liquid (foam baths, milks, shower preparations) or solid bath preparations, e.g. bath cubes and bath salts; skin-care preparations, e.g. skin emulsions, multi-emulsions or skin oils; cosmetic personal care preparations, e.g. facial make-up in the form of day creams or powder creams, face powder (loose or pressed), rouge or cream make-up, eye-care preparations, e.g. eye shadow preparations, mascara, eyeliner, eye creams or eye-fix creams; lip-care preparations, e.g. lipsticks, lip gloss, lip contour pencils, nail-care preparations, such as nail varnish, nail varnish removers, nail hardeners or cuticle removers; foot-care preparations, e.g. foot baths, foot powders, foot creams or foot balsams, special deodorants and antiperspirants or callus-removing preparations; light-protective preparations, such as sun milks, lotions, creams or oils, sun blocks or tropicals, pre-tanning preparations or after-sun preparations; skin-tanning preparations, e.g. self-tanning creams; depigmenting preparations, e.g. preparations for bleaching the skin or skin-lightening preparations; insect-repellents, e.g. insect-repellent oils, lotions, sprays or sticks; deodorants, such as deodorant sprays, pump-action sprays, deodorant gels, sticks or roll-ons; antiperspirants, e.g. antiperspirant sticks, creams or roll-ons; preparations for cleansing and caring for blemished skin, e.g. synthetic detergents (solid or liquid), peeling or scrub preparations or peeling masks; hair-removal preparations in chemical form (depilation), e.g. hair-removing powders, liquid hair-removing preparations, cream- or paste-form hair-removing preparations, hair- removing preparations in gel form or aerosol foams; shaving preparations, e.g. shaving soap, foaming shaving creams, non-foaming shaving creams, foams and gels, preshave preparations for dry shaving, aftershaves or aftershave lotions; - fragrance preparations, e.g. fragrances (eau de Cologne, eau de toilette, eau de perfume, perfume de toilette, perfume), perfume oils or perfume creams; cosmetic hair-treatment preparations, e.g. hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos and conditioners, hair-care preparations, e.g. pre-treatment preparations, hair tonics, styling creams, styling gels, pomades, hair rinses, treatment packs, intensive hair treatments, hair-structuring preparations, e.g. hair-waving preparations for permanent waves (hot wave, mild wave, cold wave), hair-straightening preparations, liquid hair- setting preparations, hair foams, hairsprays, bleaching preparations, e.g. hydrogen peroxide solutions, lightening shampoos, bleaching creams, bleaching powders, bleaching pastes or oils, temporary, semi-permanent or permanent hair colorants, preparations containing self-oxidising dyes, or natural hair colorants, such as henna or camomile.

Presentation forms

The final formulations listed may exist in a wide variety of presentation forms, for example:

in the form of liquid preparations as a W/O, O/W, 0/W/O, W/O/W or PIT emulsion and all kinds of microemulsions, in the form of a gel, in the form of an oil, a cream, milk or lotion, in the form of a powder, a lacquer, a tablet or make-up, in the form of a stick, in the form of a spray (spray with propellant gas or pump-action spray) or an aerosol, in the form of a foam, or in the form of a paste.

Of special importance as cosmetic preparations for the skin are light-protective preparations, such as sun milks, lotions, creams, oils, sun blocks or tropicals, pretanning preparations or after-sun preparations, also skin-tanning preparations, for example self-tanning creams. Of particular interest are sun protection creams, sun protection lotions, sun protection milk and sun protection preparations in the form of a spray.

Of special importance as cosmetic preparations for the hair are the above-mentioned preparations for hair treatment, especially hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos, hair conditioners, hair-care preparations, e.g. pre-treatment preparations, hair tonics, styling creams, styling gels, pomades, hair rinses, treatment packs, intensive hair treatments, hair- straightening preparations, liquid hair-setting preparations, hair foams and hairsprays. Of special interest are hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos.

A shampoo has, for example, the following composition: from 0.01 to 5 % by weight of the aqueous dispersion as defined in claim 1 , 12.0 % by weight of sodium laureth-2-sulfate, 4.0 % by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, 3.0 % by weight of sodium chloride, and water ad 100%.

For example, especially the following hair-cosmetic formulations may be used:

a-i) spontaneously emulsifying stock formulation, consisting of the UV absorber according to the invention, PEG-6-Cioθxoalcohol and sorbitan sesquioleate, to which water and any desired quaternary ammonium compound, for example 4 % minkamidopropyl dimethyl- 2-hydroxyethylammonium chloride or Quaternium 80 is added;

^■ Ά- _I ) spontaneously emulsifying stock formulation consisting of the UV absorber according to the invention, tributyl citrate and PEG-20-sorbitan monooleate, to which water and any desired quaternary ammonium compound, for example 4 % minkamidopropyl dimethyl- 2-hydroxyethylammonium chloride or Quaternium 80 is added; b) quat-doped solutions of the UV absorber according to the invention in butyl triglycol and tributyl citrate; c) mixtures or solutions of the UV absorber according to the invention with n-alkylpyrrolidone.

Other typical ingredients in such formulations are preservatives, bactericides and bacteriostatic agents, perfumes, dyes, pigments, thickening agents, moisturizing agents, humectants, fats, oils, waxes or other typical ingredients of cosmetic and personal care formulations such as alcohols, poly-alcohols, polymers, electrolytes, organic solvents, silicon derivatives, emollients, emulsifiers or emulsifying surfactants, surfactants, dispersing agents, antioxidants, anti-irritants and anti-inflammatory agents etc.

Legend:

^* particulate organic filter 50-200 nm, aqueous dispersion, active ingredient w/w % ^** particulate organic filter 50-200 nm, encapsulated active ingredient w/w % * ^** particulate inorganic filter 10-200 nm, active ingredient w/w %

Methods:

Method to assess in vitro Sun Protection Factor measurement (SPF)

End-product application rate 1.4 mg/cm ² on PMMA plates (Helioplates®)

UV Transmittance analysis with Labsphere UV-1000S Transmittance Analyser

β ^■ ;3

wherein El = erythema action spectrum;SI = solar spectral irradiance and Tl = spectral transmittance of the sample.

Method to assess in vitro UVA protection factor (UVA PF)

End-product application rate 1.2 mg/cm ² on PMMA plates (Helioplates®)

UV Transmittance analysis with Labsphere UV-1000S Transmittance Analyser

Pre-irradiation step (to take the sun care product photostability into account) via a solar simulator such as Atlas Suntest CPS+ 400

T AX

PF UVA = 320

400 γ

320

Wherein Tl = sunscreen product transmittance at wave length I and Tm = mean arithmetical value of Transmittance data in the UVA range.

The cosmetic preparation according to the invention is distinguished by excellent protection of human skin against the damaging effect of sunlight.

The following example illustrates the invention.

Example 1 : Photodegradation of UV absorber combinations

For the determination of photodegradation the so-called "plate-test" is employed:

2 μl/cm ² of the formulations are spread on quartz plates (sand-blasted surface of 2.8 cm ² ), and rinsed off the plates after 0, 5, 10, 20, and 50 MED of UV irradiation using an Atlas

CPS+ solar simulator.

Results

The results of combinations with components (a), (b), and (c) are listed in Table 3.

The substances tagged with an asterix ( ^* ) are those the recovery percentages refer to. The percentage of component (a) refers to the active.

The experimental error in terms of the standard deviation is in the range of ±3%.

The results of Table 3 show that in the combination of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and piperazine bi-aminobenzophenone the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate can be stabilized by addition of octocrylene.

The results of combinations with components (a), (b), and (d) are listed in Table 4.

The substances tagged with an asterix ( ^* ) are those the recovery percentages refer to. The percentage of component (a) refers to the active.

The experimental error in terms of the standard deviation is in the range of ±3%.

The results of Table 4 show that in the combination of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and piperazine bi-aminobenzophenone the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate can be stabilized by addition of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

The results of combinations with components (a), (b), and (d) are listed in Table 5.

The substances tagged with an asterix ( ^* ) are those the recovery percentages refer to. The percentage of component (a) refers to the active. The experimental error in terms of the standard deviation is in the range of ±3%.

The results of Table 5 show that both, ethylhexyl triazone and di-octyl butamido triazone are photostabilized in the presence of piperazine bi-aminobenzophenone.