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Title:
WATER-IN-OIL COSMETIC
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2023/094847
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
A water-in-oil cosmetic comprising (A) a hydrophobically treated pigment comprising an inorganic pigment treated with dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, (B) one or more kinds of oils, (C) a dextrin fatty acid ester forming a gel of at least one of component (B), (D) a silicone-based surfactant having an HLB of less than 8, (E) an organically modified clay mineral and (F) water, the content of component (F) being 40% by mass or more based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

Inventors:
FUJIOKA KENTA (JP)
GOHARA HIDESHI (JP)
HATA KOICHI (JP)
Application Number:
PCT/IB2021/000832
Publication Date:
June 01, 2023
Filing Date:
November 29, 2021
Export Citation:
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Assignee:
LVMH RECH (FR)
International Classes:
A61K8/26; A61K8/31; A61K8/58; A61K8/73; A61K8/892; A61Q19/00
Domestic Patent References:
WO2017188319A12017-11-02
Foreign References:
EP3673894A12020-07-01
EP3449902A12019-03-06
EP3213742A12017-09-06
JP2011213662A2011-10-27
JP2012116822A2012-06-21
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
CHANTRAINE, Sylvie (FR)
Download PDF:
Claims:
CLAIMS

1. A water-in-oil cosmetic comprising (A) a hydrophobically treated pigment comprising an inorganic pigment treated with dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, (B) one or more kinds of oils, (C) a dextrin fatty acid ester forming a gel of at least one of component (B), (D) a silicone-based surfactant having an HLB of less than 8, (E) an organically modified clay mineral and (F) water, the content of component (F) being 40% by mass or more based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

2. The water-in-oil cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of component (C) is 0.4 to 4% by mass based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

3. The water-in-oil cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the content of component (E) is 0.04 to 0.4% by mass based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

4. The water-in-oil cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the ratio of the mass of component (C) to the mass of component (E) is 1 to 50.

5. The water-in-oil cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein component (D) comprises at least 1% by mass based on the total mass of the cosmetic of a compound represented by general formula (I); wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, x represents an integer of 1 to 100, y represents an integer of 1 to 40, z represents an integer of 1 to 200, p represents an integer of 2 to 20, q represents an integer of 1 to 5, r represents an integer of 2 to 20, and s represents an integer of 0 to 20.

6. The water-in-oil cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein component (B) comprises a volatile silicone oil and/or a volatile hydrocarbon oil and the content of the volatile silicone oil and the volatile hydrocarbon oil is both 0.1 to 25% by mass based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

7. The water-in-oil cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the ratio of the mass of the volatile silicone oil to the mass of the volatile hydrocarbon oil is 0.1 to 10.

8. The water-in-oil cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the water-in-oil cosmetic comprises substantially no cyclic silicone.

9. The water-in-oil cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the water-in-oil cosmetic further comprises a polyol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

10. The water-in-oil cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the component (C) is a dextrin esterified with a straight-chain fatty acid having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

11. The water-in-oil cosmetic according to claim 10, wherein the component (C) includes dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate and dextrin palmitate/hexyldecanoate.

12. A cosmetic process for caring for and/or making-up keratinic materials, comprising the application onto keratinic materials, in particular onto skin, of the water-in-oil cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 11.

13. The cosmetic process according to claim 12, wherein the water-in-oil cosmetic provides to the keratinic materials on which it is applied, a comfortable skin finish, a high coverage effect, a long lasting effect, robust stability, a caring texture and a low powdery feeling.

Description:
WATER-IN-OIL COSMETIC

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a water-in-oil cosmetic.

Background Art

[0002] Foundations are cosmetics used to bring out skin beauty while minimizing the appearance of skin irregularities and pores. Foundations usually contain added inorganic powders for the purpose of coloration and/or protection from ultraviolet rays. However, since inorganic powders alone have insufficient dispersibility in oil components, often causing problems of product stability (particularly stability in an emulsified state), known techniques are applied using surface hydrophobic agents on their surfaces. Various types of hydrophobic agents are used, one example being the surface-treated powder disclosed in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2011-213662, wherein the powder has the surface covered by an esterified product of dextrin and a fatty acid of 12 to 22 carbon atoms in which the dextrin has a mean polymerization degree of 3 to 150and the fatty acid of 12 to 22 carbon atoms include a predetermined amount of a branched fatty acid, and the degree of substitution of the fatty acid being 1.0 to 3.0 per glucose unit. In Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2012-116822, an esterified product of dextrin and a fatty acid is disclosed. Wherein this esterified product of dextrin and a fatty acid, the dextrin has a mean polymerization degree of glucose of 3 to 150, the fatty acid contains 1, 2 or more branched saturated fatty acids having 4 to 26 carbon atoms in an amount of more than 50 mol% and 100 mol% or less based on all fatty acids, and 1, 2 or more selected from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having 2 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms and cyclic saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms in an amount of 0 mol% to less than 50 mol% based on all fatty acids, and the degree of substitution of fatty acids per glucose unit is 1.0 to 3.0.

[0003] An ideal foundation not only has such stability but also has excellent makeup effects such as a high coverage effect and a long lasting effect, as well as excellence in terms of usability, including a caring texture, a comfortable skin finish and a low powdery feeling.

Summary of Invention

Technical Problem

[0004] However, the makeup effects and. usability effects mentioned above are usually in a trade-off relationship, making it difficult to improve both simultaneously.

[0005] It is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic having robust stability, and not only an excellent high coverage effect and long lasting effect, but also excellence in terms of caring texture, comfortable skin finish and low powdery feeling.

Solution to Problem

[0006] The present invention provides a water-in-oil cosmetic comprising (A) a hydrophobically treated pigment comprising an inorganic pigment treated with dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, (B) one or more kinds of oils, (C) a dextrin fatty acid ester forming a gel of at least one of component (B), (D) a silicone-based surfactant having an HLB of less than 8, (E) an organically modified clay mineral and (F) water, the content of component (F) being 40% by mass or more based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

[0007] This cosmetic has robust stability, and not only an excellent high coverage effect and long lasting effect, but also an excellent caring texture, comfortable skin finish and low powdery feeling. Throughout the present specification, the simple term "stability" means "powder dispersion stability or stability in an emulsified state".

[0008] Component (A) includes an inorganic pigment treated with dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As used herein, "treated" means surface treatment of an inorganic pigment, and it includes hydrophobic treatment. Hydrophobizing of the surface of an inorganic pigment increases its dispersibility in oils and improves stability. As used herein, "hydrophobized surface" and "surface-treated" include cases in which a hydrophobic agent which is dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms covers the surface of a pigment such as an inorganic pigment. The phrase "surface of a pigment" generally means the outer surface of the pigment, but when the pigment is a porous body it means the outer surface and/or the interior of the pigment. [0009] The present invention introduces the new knowledge that it is possible to improve the high coverage effect and long lasting effect while also improving the comfortable skin finish, and providing a low powdery feeling. The dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms must not merely be copresent with the inorganic pigment in the cosmetic, but must be used for surface treatment of the inorganic pigment, being present in the cosmetic in a state covering at least a portion of the surface of the inorganic pigment. It is thought that the high coverage effect is improved because using the specific dextrin fatty acid ester mentioned above. It is also thought that the dextrin fatty acid esters mentioned above can exhibit satisfactory flexibility because they have a branched structure in the polymer backbone. It is possible that this allows specific dextrin fatty acid esters are able to increase the coverage of the surface of the inorganic pigment, making it possible to reduce the powdery feeling caused by the inorganic material. While dextrin fatty acid esters with polymer backbones also exist in addition to the specific dextrin fatty acid ester mentioned above, a lower powdery feeling is prominently exhibited when using a dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, especially compared to when another dextrin fatty acid ester is used.

[0010] By including component (C), the cosmetic of the present invention can gel one or more kinds of oils in component (B), so that a cosmetic with adequate viscosity can be obtained and stability can be improved. By including component (C), the cosmetic of the present invention not only has a more satisfactory long lasting effect but can also provide a more excellent caring texture and a more comfortable skin finish.

[0011] By including component (E), the cosmetic of the present invention can have sufficient pigment dispersion stability, thus further improving the stability. [0012] Because the content of component (F) is 40% or greater based on the total mass of the cosmetic, the fresh sensation increases and a more excellent caring texture can be obtained. Moreover, because the content of component (F) is within the specified range, adequate viscosity can be obtained and the cosmetic is able to stay on the skin during application, thus further increasing the high coverage effect and resulting in further improved stability.

[0013] The present invention also provides a water-in-oil cosmetic, wherein the content of component (C) is 0.4 to 4% by mass based on the total mass of the cosmetic. If the content of component (C) is within the specified range, the stability will be further improved and a more excellent caring texture and a more comfortable skin finish can be obtained.

[0014] The present invention also provides a water-in-oil cosmetic, wherein the content of component (E) is 0.04 to 0.4% by mass based on the total mass of the cosmetic. If the content of component (E) is within the specified range, the stability will be further improved and a more excellent caring texture and a more comfortable skin finish can be obtained.

[0015] The present invention also provides a water-in-oil cosmetic, wherein the ratio of the mass of component (C) to the mass of component (E) is 1 to 50. If the ratio of the mass of component (C) with respect to the mass of component (E) is in the specified range, not only will the stability and high coverage effect be further improved, but a more excellent caring texture and more comfortable skin finish can also be obtained.

[0016] The present invention also provides a water-in-oil cosmetic, wherein component (D) comprises at least 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic, of a compound represented by general formula (I); [Chemical Formula 1] wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, x represents an integer of 1 to 100, y represents an integer of 1 to 40, z represents an integer of 1 to 200, p represents an integer of 2 to 20, q represents an integer of 1 to 5, r represents an integer of 2 to 20, and s represents an integer of 0 to 20.

[0017] If component (D) comprises at least 1 mass% of a compound represented by general formula (I) above based on the total mass of the cosmetic, then not only will the stability and high coverage effect be further improved, but a more excellent caring texture and more comfortable skin finish can also be obtained. [0018] The present invention also provides a water-in-oil cosmetic, wherein component (B) comprises a volatile silicone oil and/or a volatile hydrocarbon oil, and the content of the volatile silicone oil and the volatile hydrocarbon oil are both 0.1 to 25% by mass based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

[0019] If the content of the volatile silicone oil and the volatile hydrocarbon oil are each 0.1 to 25 mass% based on the total mass of the cosmetic, then a more excellent caring texture and more comfortable skin finish can be obtained.

[0020] The present invention also provides a water-in-oil cosmetic, wherein the ratio of the mass of the volatile silicone oil to the mass of the volatile hydrocarbon oil is 0.1 to 10. If the ratio of the mass of the volatile silicone oil with respect to the mass of the volatile hydrocarbon oil is in the specified range, a more excellent caring texture and more comfortable skin finish, as well as robust stability, will be obtainable.

[0021] The present invention also provides a water-in-oil cosmetic, wherein the water-in-oil cosmetic comprises substantially no cyclic silicone. If the cosmetic comprises essentially no cyclic silicone, then a more comfortable skin finish can be obtained and the cosmetic will be safer for both the human body.

[0022] The present invention also provides a water-in-oil cosmetic, wherein the water-in-oil cosmetic further comprises a polyol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0023] The present invention also provides a water-in-oil cosmetic, wherein the component (C) is a dextrin esterified with a straight-chain fatty acid having 6 to 22 carbon atoms. [0024] The present invention also provides a water-in-oil cosmetic, wherein the component (C) includes dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate and dextrin palmitate/hexyldecanoate. [0025] The present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making-up keratinic materials, comprising the application onto keratinic materials, in particular onto skin, of the water-in-oil cosmetic. [0026] The present invention also provides a cosmetic process, wherein the water-in-oil cosmetic provides to the keratinic materials on which it is applied, a comfortable skin finish, a high coverage effect, a long lasting effect, robust stability, a caring texture and a low powdery feeling.

Advantageous Effects of Invention

[0027] According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic having robust stability, and not only an excellent high coverage effect and long lasting effect, but also an excellent caring texture, comfortable skin finish and low powdery feeling.

Description of Embodiments

[0028] The cosmetic according to one embodiment comprises (A) a hydrophobically treated pigment, where component (A) comprises an inorganic pigment treated with dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0029] Examples of inorganic pigments include metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, aluminum oxide, bengala, Prussian blue, chromium oxide and chromium hydroxide, metal complexes such as manganese violet and cobalt titanate, and carbon black. Titanium dioxide is known as a white pigment, and iron oxide is known as a red, yellow or black colored pigment. These may be appropriately combined for adjustment to a desired color tone. The aforementioned metal oxides are known as ultraviolet scattering agents. A metal oxide particle diameter of 100 to 500 nm increases the scattering effect for ultraviolet rays. A metal oxide microparticle powder (particle size: <100 nm) may also be used, and the microparticle powder may form aggregates or agglomerates.

[0030] Examples for the dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms include dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachate and dextrin 18-methyleicosanoate. Dextrin isostearate is preferred among these. The dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms is preferably dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16, 18, 20 or 22 carbon atoms, and component (A) most preferably comprises titanium dioxide that has been surface- treated with dextrin isostearate.

[0031] The dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms can be represented by the following general formula (Ila) or (Ilb)j for example. "A" in the following general formula represents a residue obtained by removing an OH group from a fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, where at least some or all of the residues are residues of removing an OH group from a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Some of the "A” groups may also be hydrogen atoms. The "*" symbol indicates a bonding site.

[Chemical Formula 2]

[0032] In general formula (Ila) or (lib), the fatty acid other than a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms may be, for example, a straight-chain saturated fatty acid of 2 to 22 carbon atoms such as acetic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid or behenic acid; or a branched saturated fatty acid of 4 to 14 carbon atoms such as isobutyric acid, isovaleric acid, 2- ethylbutyric acid, ethylmethylacetic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 2- ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid or isomyristic acid. Fatty acids other than branched fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms may also be straight-chain or branched unsaturated fatty acids of 6 to 30 carbon atoms, including monoenoic unsaturated fatty acid such as cis-4-decenoic (obtusilic) acid, 9-decenoic (caproleic) acid, cis-4- dodecenoic (linderic) acid, cis-4-tetradecenoic (tsuzuic) acid, cis-5- tetradecenoic (physeteric) acid, cis-9-tetradecenoic (myristoleic) acid, cis- 6-hexadecenoic acid, cis-9-hexadecenoic (palmitoleic) acid, cis-9- octadecenoic (oleic) acid, trans-9-octadecenoic acid (elaidic acid), cis-11- octadecenoic (asclepinic) acid, cis-11-eicosenoic (gondoic) acid, cis- 17- hexacosenoic (ximenic) acid and cis-21-triacontenoic (lumequeic) acid; and polyene unsaturated fatty acids such as sorbic acid, linoleic acid, hiragonic acid, punicic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, moroctic acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid, EPA, clupanodonic acid, DHA, herring acid, stearolic acid, crepenynic acid and ximenynic acid. Fatty acids other than branched fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms may also be saturated or unsaturated fatty acids of 6 to 30 carbon atoms having a cyclic structure in at least part of the basic backbone, such as 9,10-methylene-9- octadecenoic acid, aleprylic acid, alepric acid, gorlic acid, α-cyclopentyl acid, α-cyclohexyl acid, α-cyclopentylethyl acid, α-cyclohexylmethyl acid, ω-cyclohexyl acid, 5(6)-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexen-l-octanoic acid, malvalic acid, sterculic acid, hydnocarpic acid and chaulmoogric acid. [0033] The inorganic pigment may be further surface-treated with another hydrophobic agent. The other hydrophobic agent may be one or more selected from the group consisting of silicone compounds, fluorine compounds, oils, fats, phospholipids, amino acids, higher alcohols, waxes, polymers and resins.

[0034] In order to obtain a hydrophobically treated pigment, aluminum hydroxide, alumina, silica or the like may be used as a surface treatment agent in addition to the hydrophobic agent. Particularly when the inorganic pigment is one with catalytic activity, such as titanium dioxide, aluminum hydroxide is effective for sealing the catalytic activity.

[0035] Component (A) is present at preferably 1 to 20 mass%, more preferably 3 to 15 mass% and even more. preferably 5 to 10 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. If the content of component (A) is within this range, it will be possible to further improve both the makeup effect, i.e. the high coverage effect and long lasting effect, and the usability including caring texture, comfortable skin finish and thin-film formability.

[0036] In regard to component (A), the mass of the portion derived from the hydrophobic agent is preferably 1 to 10 mass%, more preferably 2 to 8 mass% and even more preferably 3 to 6 mass%, based on the mass of the total hydrophobically treated pigment. If the content of the hydrophobic agent is within this range, then the dispersibility of the pigment will be more excellent, and the stability, high coverage effect and long lasting effect will be increased. Since the oil absorption property of the pigment will also be inhibited, this can prevent the viscosity of the cosmetic from excessively increasing, allowing a thinner film to be formed. The surface of the inorganic pigment can also be adequately covered, and the low powdery feeling effect can be further increased.

[0037] The cosmetic of this embodiment may also comprise a hydrophobically treated pigment other than component (A). The hydrophobically treated pigment other than component (A) may be an inorganic pigment that is not surface-treated with a dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, but is surface-treated with one or more selected from the group consisting of silicone compounds, silane compounds, amino acid derivatives, sugar derivatives other than a dextrin esterified with a branched fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, organic titanates, phospholipids, metal soaps, fatty acids, oils and organic polymers. These surface treatment agents and inorganic pigments may be the same ones used as the "other hydrophobic agent" and the inorganic pigment. Examples of hydrophobically treated pigments other than component (A) include iron oxide surface-treated with sodium myristoyl glutamate. When an inorganic pigment as the hydrophobically treated pigment other than component (A) is a metal oxide such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, it can function as an ultraviolet scattering agent. [0038] The cosmetic of this embodiment comprises (B) one or more kinds of oils. Component (B) may comprise a volatile oil, the volatile oil being an oily component that is liquid and gradually gasifies at ordinary temperature and ordinary pressure.. Examples of the volatile oil include (B1) a volatile silicone oil and (B2) a volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0039] Examples for component (B1) include methyltrimethicone, octamethyltrisiloxane and dimethicone. Examples for component (B2) include butyl acetate; synthetic hydrocarbons such as isododecane and isohexadecane; plant-derived hydrocarbons such as (C9-12) alkanes; and petroleum volatile compounds.

[0040] The contents of component (B1) and component (B2) may each be 0.1 to 25 mass%, preferably 0.1 to 20 mass%, even more preferably 0.1 to 15 mass% and yet more preferably 0.1 to 10 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. If the contents of component (B1) and component (B2) are each within the specified range, then the high coverage effect and long lasting effect will further increase while also resulting in a further improved caring texture, and allowing a thinner coated film to be formed, thus providing a more comfortable skin finish. In addition, it will be unlikely to produce a dryness-induced stiff feeling, skin irritation or a blocking feeling after application onto skin, which is more preferred from the viewpoint of the feel during use.

[0041] The ratio of the mass of component (B1) with respect to the mass of component (B2) maybe 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.5 to 5 and more preferably 0.7 to 3. If the ratio of the mass of component (B1) with respect to the mass of component (B2) is in the specified range, a more excellent caring texture and more comfortable skin finish, as well as robust stability, will be obtainable.

[0042] The total content of component (B1) and component (B2) is preferably 25 to 85 mass%, more preferably 35 to 75 mass% and even more preferably 45 to 65 mass%, based on the total mass of component (B). [0043] Component (B) may further comprise a non-volatile oil. A non- volatile oil is a non-volatile oil component that is liquid in an environment at ordinary temperature (in the range of 15 to 25°C) and ordinary pressure (1 atmosphere). Examples of non-volatile oils include cycloalkylene carbonates (for example, propylene carbonate), fatty alcohols of 8 to 22 carbon atoms (for example, octyldodecanol), fatty acid esters of mono or polyhydric alcohols (for example, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and castor oil), alkyl benzoates, aliphatic hydrocarbons (for example, hydrogenated polyisobutene), liquid lanolin, olive oil, mineral oils, squalane, aromatic polysiloxanes (for example, phenyltrimethicone), plant-derived esters (for example, coco-caprylate/caprate or caprylic/capric triglyceride), and ultraviolet absorbers (for example, ethylhexyl salicylate).

[0044] The content of the non-volatile oil is preferably 1 to 20 mass%, more preferably 5 to 15 mass% and even more preferably 8 to 12 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. If the non-volatile oil content is within this range, then its application onto skin will be unlikely to produce a dry feel or a stiff and sticky feel on the skin, and a more comfortable skin finish can be obtained.

[0045] The cosmetic of this embodiment comprises (C) a dextrin fatty acid ester forming a gel of at least one of the components (B). Component (C) may be any one that gels at least one kind of oil in component (B), thereby producing a thickening effect. Gelling ability can be assessed by the following method. Specifically, first liquid oil (liquid paraffin with

40°C kinematic viscosity measured to be 8 mm 2 /s according to ASTM D445) and a dextrin fatty acid ester are mixed so that the dextrin fatty acid ester is at 5 mass% based on the total mass. The obtained mixture is heated and raised in temperature to 100°C. After confirming dissolution of the dextrin fatty acid ester, heating is stopped and the mixture is allowed to stand for 24 hours. A Yamco DIGITAL VISCOMATE VM-100A viscometer (oscillating) (product of Yamaichi Electronics Co., Ltd.) is then used to measure the viscosity at 25 °C, and if the viscosity is measured to be normal then the dextrin fatty acid ester is judged to have gelling ability. If the viscosity is below the detection limit of the Yamco DIGITAL VISCOMATE VM-.100A viscometer (oscillating) (Yamaichi Electronics Co., Ltd.), on the other hand, the dextrin fatty acid ester is judged not to have gelling ability. If the liquid paraffin can be gelled, then it may be assumed that at least one kind of oil in component (B) can be gelled by the dextrin fatty acid ester.

[0046] The component (C) may be a dextrin esterified with a straightchain fatty acid. The fatty acid used for esterification may have 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 16 carbon atoms. Examples for component (C) include dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate and dextrin palmitate/hexyldecanoate.

Component (C) preferably comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate and dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate, and it more preferably comprises dextrin palmitate.

[0047] Component (C) can be represented by general formula (Ila) or (lIb) above, for example. "A" represents a residue of removing an OH group from a straight-chain fatty acid. Some of the "A" groups may also be hydrogen atoms. When component (C) is dextrin palmitate, "A" represents palmitoyl groups, when it is dextrin myristate, "A" represents myristoyl groups, and when it is dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate, "A” represents palmitoyl and ethylhexanoyl groups. In all cases, some of the "A" groups may be hydrogen atoms.

[0048] The content of component (C) is preferably 0.4 to 4 mass%, more preferably 0.7 to 3.5 mass% and even more preferably 1.2 to 2.5 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. If the content of component (C) is within the specified range, the stability will be more robust and the caring texture and comfortable skin finish will be more satisfactory.

[0049] The ratio of the mass of component (C) with respect to the mass of component (E) may be 1 to 50, preferably 3 to 40 and more preferably 7 to 25. If the ratio of the mass of component (C) with respect to the mass of component (E) is in the specified range, not only will the stability and high coverage effect be improved, but a more excellent caring texture and more comfortable skin finish can also be obtained.

[0050] The cosmetic of this embodiment comprises (D) a silicone-based surfactant having an HLB of less than 8. Component (D) has a chemical structure with a hydrophilic group introduced into a polysiloxane backbone. The HLB value of a silicone surfactant varies depending on the type of hydrophilic group. Examples of hydrophilic groups include polyethers and polyglycerin groups such as polyethylene glycol (hereunder also referred to as "PEG") and polypropylene glycol (hereunder also referred to as "PPG"). Component (D) may also be modified with an alkyl group (polyether/alkyl comodification, or polyglycerin/alkyl comodification). The silicone chain of component (D) may be straight-chain or branched. Two or more silicone chains may also be crosslinked, depending on the hydrophilic group. The number of ethylene oxide units in a polyethylene glycol is not paiticularly restricted and may be 1 or more, 2 or more, 3 or more, 4 or more, 5 or more or 6 or more. The number of ethylene oxide units may also be up to 25, up to 20, up to 15, up to 11, up to 10 or up to 9: The number of propylene oxide units in a polypropylene glycol is not particularly restricted and may be 0 or more, 1 or more, 2 or more, 3 or more, 4 or more, 5 or more or 6 or more. The number of propylene oxide units may also be up to 25, up to 20, up to 15, up to 11, up to 10 of up to 9. [0051] The HLB value of component (D) is less than 8, and may be 2 to 7, 3 to 7, 3 to 6 or 4 to 6. The HLB value of component (D) may also be 1 or greater, 2 or greater or 3 or greater.

[0052] Component (D) may comprise at least at 1 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic, of a compound represented by the following general formula (I)

[Chemical Formula 1] wherein R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, x represents an integer of 1 to 100, y represents an integer of 1 to 40, z represents an integer of 1 to 200, p represents an integer of 2 to 20, q represents an integer of 1 to 5, r represents an integer of 2 to 20, and s represents an integer of 0 to 20.

[0053] Compounds represented by general formula (I) include ABIL® EM 90 (cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, HLB = 5.0, product of Evonik, Japan) and KF-6048 (cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, HLB = 3.5, product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), with ABIL® EM 90 being preferred. In general formula (I), when p is 16, q is 3, r is 10, s is 1 and R is a hydrogen atom, the compound is referred to as "cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone". Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone is a copolymer of cetyldimethicone and dimethicone, and it may be described as being a copolymer having a polyether side chain wherein the polyether side chain is formed with ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in a molar ratio of 10:1.

[0054] Component (D) may also comprise, in addition to a compound represented by general formula (I), also KF-6028 (PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, HLB = 4.0, product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) and KF-6038 (lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, HLB = 3.0, product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.). PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone is a polymer obtained by replacing some of the methyl groups of a silicone having a branched siloxane structure, with PEG (about 9 mol). Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone is a polymer obtained by replacing some of the methyl groups of a silicone having a branched siloxane structure, with PEG (about 9 mol) and lauryl groups.

[0055] The content of component (D) is more preferably 1 to 5 mass% based on the total mass of the cosmetic. If the content of component (D) is within this range, the emulsified state will be more stabilized and the high coverage effect and satisfactory usability can be further increased.

[0056] The cosmetic of this embodiment comprises (E) an organically modified clay mineral. Component (E) is clay that has been modified to hydrophobicity with an organic molecule, and it has a thickening effect. [0057] Examples of clay to be used for component (E) include kaolinite, dickite, nacrite, donbassite, antigorite, berthierine, pyrophyllite, montmorillonite, beidellite, vermiculite, talc, stevensite, hectorite, saponite^ chlorite and sepiolite, which are modified to hydrophobicity with organic molecules. Examples of organic molecules include quaternary ammonium salts, and more specifically disteardimonium chloride and stearalkonium chloride. Examples for component (E) include disteardimonium hectorite and stearalkonium hectorite.

[0058] Component (E) may be handled in a state dispersed in a volatile oil and/or a non-volatile oil, in which case it may be utilized together with a volatile oil and/or a non-volatile oil. Such volatile oils include octamethyltrisiloxane, synthetic hydrocarbons (for example, isododecane and isohexadecane), plant-derived hydrocarbons (for example, (C9-12) alkanes), petroleum volatiles and methyltrimethicone. Cyclopentasiloxane is preferably not included as a volatile oil, but the use of cyclopentasiloxane is not completely excluded. Non-volatile oils include propylene carbonate, crambe abyssinica seed oil, castor oil, olive fruit oil, octyldodecanol, isopropyl myristate, liquid lanolin, mineral oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene, phenyltrimethicone, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, alkyl benzoates, plant-derived esters (for example, coco- caprylate/caprate or caprylic/capric triglyceride). The amounts of the volatile oil or non-Volatile oil copresent in component (E) may each be summed in as the amounts of volatile oil or non-volatile oil described above. Component (E) may be a product of the BENTONE GEL® Series (trade name of Elementis), such as BENTONE GEL® ISD V or BENTONE GEL® GTCC V.

[0059] By comprising component (E), the stability of the pigment dispersion is improved, the water resistance and sebum resistance after skin application are also excellent, and bleeding of sebum and the like can be inhibited. The content of component (E) may be 0.04 to 0.4 mass%, . preferably 0.04 to 0.35 mass% and more preferably 0.04 to 0.25 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

[0060] The cosmetic of this embodiment comprises (F) water, the content of component (F) being 40 mass% or greater based on the. total mass of the cosmetic. The content of component (F) is preferably 45 mass% or greater and more preferably 50 mass% or greater. If the content of component (F) is within this range, the fresh sensation will increase and a more excellent caring texture can be obtained. A content of component (F) within this range will also further improve the high coverage effect and stability.

[0061] The cosmetic of this embodiment may also comprise an aqueous phase component other than component (F). The aqueous phase component other than component (F) may include a polyol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for example. Examples of polyols of 2 to 8 carbon atoms include ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3 -propylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2- octanediol. The content of the polyol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms may be 3 to 25 mass%, preferably 5 to 20 mass% and more preferably 10 to 15 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. If the content of the polyol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms is within this range, it will be possible to further increase the moisture retention effect without destabilizing the emulsified state.

[0062] The aqueous phase component other than component (F) may include a monool of 1 to 3 carbon atoms, for example. Examples of monools of 1 to 3 carbon atoms include ethanol, 1 -propanol and 2-propanol (isopropanol). The content of the monool of 1 to 3 carbon atoms may be 20 mass% or lower, preferably 10 mass% or lower and more preferably 5 mass% or lower, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. If the content of the monool of 1 to 3 carbon atoms is within this range it will be easier to form a homogeneous film, and the high coverage effect and long lasting effect can be further increased. The lower limit for the content of the monool of 1 to 3 carbon atoms may be 1 mass%, 5 mass% or 10 mass%, for example.

[0063] The cosmetic of this embodiment may also comprise a dispersing agent. Polyhydroxystearic acid may be mentioned as a dispersing agent. The content of the dispersing agent is more preferably 0.05 to 0.5 mass% and even more preferably 0.1 to 0.2 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

[0064] The cosmetic of this embodiment may also comprise a spherical powder.. Spherical powders include silica, cellulose, starch, and their mixtures, with silica preferably being hydrophobic silica. The spherical powder content may be 10 mass% or lower and preferably 5 mass% or lower, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. The lower limit for the spherical powder content may be 1 mass% or 2 mass%, for example.

[0065] The cosmetic of this embodiment may further comprise a stabilizer such as a salt, or an antimicrobial agent, antioxidant, aromatic or active ingredient.

[0066] The cosmetic of this embodiment may be a cosmetic that contains essentially or absolutely no cyclic silicone. If the cosmetic "contains essentially no" cyclic silicone, then the content of the cyclic silicone may be 0.01 mass% or lower, 0.001 mass% or lower or 0.0001 mass% or lower, based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

[0067] The cosmetic of this embodiment has a viscosity at 25°C of preferably 1000 mPa·s or higher and more preferably 3000 mPa·s or higher. The cosmetic of this embodiment also has a viscosity at 25°C of preferably 10,000 mPa·s or lower and more preferably 8000 mPa·s or lower. The viscosity of the cosmetic at 25°C may be 1000 to 10,000 mPa·s, 1000 to 8000 mPa·s, 3000 to 10,000 mPa·s or 3000 to 8000 mPa·s. The viscosity is measured using a rotational viscometer (for example, a Rheolab® QC by Anton Paar GmbH), inserting an ST22-4V-40 spindle into the cosmetic being housed in a container with an inner diameter of 4.5 cm and kept at 25°C, with measurement for 3 minutes at a rotational speed of 100 rpm. [0068] The cosmetic of this embodiment can be produced by the following procedure, for example. Specifically, first component (A), component (B), component (C), component (D) and component (E) are combined to obtain a mixture. Component (F) is then combined with the obtained mixture to obtain a cosmetic.

[0069] The cosmetic may be used as an emulsified foundation, makeup base, sun protection cosmetic or emulsified concealer, and when used as an emulsified foundation, makeup base or sun protection cosmetic, it may be housed in ajar container, tube container or bottle container, or when used as an emulsified concealer, it may be housed in a brush pen type container, tube container or jar container. However, the invention is not limited to these container forms. For example, the cosmetic may be impregnated into a body and housed in an airtight compact container.

Examples .

[0070] The present invention will now be explained by the following examples, with the understanding that the invention is not limited by the examples.

[0071] (Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8) Cosmetics were prepared by the following steps 1 to 3, with the compositions listed in Tables 1 and 2.

Step 1: (A) A pigment (hydrophobically treated pigment or non- hydrophobically treated pigment), (B) one or more oils, (C) a dextrin fatty acid ester gelling at least one kind of oil, (D) a silicone-based surfactant with an HLB value of less than 8 and (E) an organically modified clay mineral were mixed at room temperature using a homogenizer. In Comparative Examples 4 and 6, dextrin isostearate was also mixed in, in addition to these components.

Step 2: 1,3-Butylene glycol, sodium chloride and (F) water were mixed at room temperature using a homogenizer.

Step 3: The mixture obtained in step 2 was added to the mixture obtained in step 1, and the resulting mixture was emulsified using a homogenizer.

[0072] The compounds listed in Tables 1 and 2 were as follows. The "%" values indicate the content ratios of each of the components based on the mass of the hydrophobically treated pigment (for inorganic pigments surface-treated with aluminum hydroxide, it is the total content ratio with aluminum hydroxide).

Hydrophobically treated pigment 1: Titanium dioxide, aluminum hydroxide (95%), dextrin isostearate (5%)

Hydrophobically treated pigment 2: Iron oxide (YELLOW), aluminum hydroxide (95%), dextrin isostearate (5%)

Hydrophobically treated pigment 3: Iron oxide (RED), aluminum hydroxide (95%), dextrin isostearate (5%)

Hydrophobically treated pigment 4: Iron oxide (BLACK), aluminum hydroxide (95%), dextrin isostearate (5%)

Hydrophobically treated pigment 5: Iron oxide (YELLOW), aluminum hydroxide (97%), sodium myristoyl glutamate (3%)

Hydrophobically treated pigment 6: Iron oxide (RED), aluminum hydroxide (97%), sodium myristoyl glutamate (3%)

Hydrophobically treated pigment 7: Iron oxide (BLACK), aluminum hydroxide (97%), sodium myristoyl glutamate (3%) Hydrophobically treated pigment 8: Titanium dioxide, aluminum hydroxide (91%), dimethicone, disodium stearoyl glutamate (9%) Hydrophobically treated pigment 9: Iron oxide (YELLOW), aluminum hydroxide (91 %), dimethicone, disodium stearoyl glutamate (9%) Hydrophobically treated pigment 10: Iron oxide (RED), aluminum hydroxide (91%), dimethicone, disodium stearoyl glutamate (9%) Hydrophobically treated pigment 11 : Iron oxide (BLACK), aluminum hydroxide (92%), dimethicone, disodium stearoyl glutamate (8%) Hydrophobically treated pigment 12: Titanium dioxide (98%), dimethicone (2%)

Hydrophobically treated pigment 13: Iron oxide (YELLOW) (98%), dimethicone (2%)

Hydrophobically treated pigment 14: Iron oxide (RED) (98%), dimethicone (2%)

Hydrophobically treated pigment 15: Iron oxide (BLACK) (98%), dimethicone (2%)

Hydrophobically treated pigment 16: Titanium dioxide, aluminum hydroxide (98%), triethoxycaprylylsilane (2%)

Hydrophobically treated pigment 17: Iron oxide (YELLOW) (98%), triethoxycaprylylsilane (2%)

Hydrophobically treated pigment 18: Iron oxide (RED) (98%), triethoxycaprylylsilane (2%)

Hydrophobically treated pigment 19: Iron oxide (BLACK) (98%), triethoxycaprylylsilane (2%) [0073] [Table 1] 3 o

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[0075] The properties of the cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples were measured by the following methods.

[0076] [Evaluation of caring texture (moisture sensation and fresh sensation), comfortable skin finish, powdery feeling, high coverage effect and long lasting effect]

The water-in-oil cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples were applied onto the facial skin of 10 cosmetic experts of an evaluation panel (ages 25 to 55), and the moisture sensation, fresh sensation, comfortable skin finish, powdery feeling, high coverage effect for blemishes and pores, and long lasting effect were evaluated on tire following scale. For the long lasting effect, the condition 4 and 8 hours after application was evaluated on the scale shown below. The term ’’blemish" refers to a portion of the skin that appears darker than the surrounding area due to deposition of pigments such as melanin present on the surface or inside the skin. For this test it is assumed that the cosmetic is applied onto the skin in the morning and the condition is evaluated in the evening.

[0077] Evaluation scale for moisture sensation

A: Very excellent (e.g.: very strong moist feel, absolutely no dryness felt.) B: Excellent (e.g.: strong moist feel, virtually no dryness felt.) C: Good (e.g.: moist feel but slight dryness felt.) D: Fair (e.g.: moist feel but dryness felt.) E: Poor (e.g.: no moist feel, dryness also felt.)

F: Very poor (e.g.: no moist feel, considerable dryness felt.) [0078] Evaluation scale for fresh sensation

A: Very excellent (e.g.: very strong fresh sensation, absolutely no stickiness felt.)

B: Excellent (e.g.: strong fresh sensation, virtually no stickiness felt.) C: Good (e.g.: fresh sensation but slight stickiness felt.)

D: Fair (e.g.: fresh sensation but stickiness also felt.)

E: Poor (e.g.: no fresh sensation, stickiness also felt.)

F: Very poor (e.g.: no fresh sensation, considerable stickiness felt.) [0079] Evaluation scale for comfortable skin finish

A: Very excellent (e.g., no blocking feel, absolutely no resistance felt to changes in facial expression.)

B: Excellent (e.g., slight blocking feel, but no resistance felt to changes in facial expression.)

C: Good (e.g., blocking feel, but no resistance felt to changes in facial expression.)

D: Fair (e.g., blocking feel, slight resistance felt to changes in facial expression.)

E: Poor (e.g., high blocking feel, resistance felt to changes in facial expression.)

F: Very poor (e.g., high blocking feel, high resistance felt to changes in facial expression.)

[0080] Evaluation scale for powdery feeling

A: Very excellent (e.g.: Homogeneous cosmetic film formed, powder aggregation is absolutely invisible.)

B: Excellent (e.g.: Some non-homogeneous locations formed in cosmetic film, but powder aggregation is absolutely invisible.)

C: Good (e.g.: Powder aggregation is visible for 1 or 2 individuals at locations on their face.)

D: Fair (e.g.: Powder aggregation is visible for 3 to 5 individuals at locations on their face.) E: Poor (e.g.: Powder aggregation is visible for 6 to 10 individuals at locations on their face.)

F: Very poor (e.g.: Powder aggregation is visible for 6 to 10 individuals over entire face.)

[0081] Evaluation scale for high coverage effect

A: Very excellent (e.g.: blemishes and pores completely concealed.)

B: Excellent (e.g.: blemishes not visible, but pores can be observed for 1 or 2 individuals.)

C: Good (e.g.: blemishes not visible, but pores can be observed for 3 to 5 individuals.)

D: Fair (e.g.: blemishes and pores can be observed for 1 or 2 individuals.) E: Poor (e.g.: blemishes and pores can be observed for 3 to 5 individuals.) F: Very poor (e.g.: blemishes and pores can be observed for 6 to 10 individuals.)

[0082] Evaluation scale for long lasting effect

A: Very excellent (e.g.: no breakup of the cosmetic even after 8 hours.)

B: Excellent (e.g.: no breakup of the cosmetic after 4 hours, but breakup of the cosmetic experienced by 1 or 2 individuals after 8 hours.)

C: Good (e.g.: no breakup of the cosmetic after 4 hours, but breakup of the cosmetic experienced by 3 to 5 individuals after 8 hours.)

D: Fair (e.g.: breakup of the cosmetic experienced by 1 or 2 individuals after 4 hours.)

E: Poor (e.g.: breakup of the cosmetic experienced by 3 to 5 individuals after 4 hours.)

F: Very poor (e.g.: breakup of the cosmetic experienced by 6 to 10 individuals after 4 hours.) [0083] [Evaluation of stability]

The cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples were each filled into a transparent container and sealed with a cap, and then stored for 1 month at 50°C. As a control, each cosmetic was also used after storage for 1 month at room temperature. The outer appearance of each stored cosmetic was visually observed and judged as "F" when either powder aggregation or viscosity reduction was observed, or as ”A" if neither was observed.

Powder aggregation: Non-uniform dispersion and uneven color of the pigment, compared to the control.

Viscosity reduction: Flow began within 10 seconds after cooling to or keeping room temperature of the cosmetic-filled container and inverting. [0084] The results are summarized in Tables 3 and 4 below.

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