After raw wool has been scoured to remove soil materials, it is carded to break open entanglement, remove burrs, seeds and other vegetable matter, leaving the wool as a continuous web called a sliver. The further steps of gilling, combing, and drawing may then be used to process the sliver, prior to spinning into yarn. Gilling uses a coarse comb to align the fibres of the sliver. Combing uses a finer toothed roller comb to further align the fibres and remove remaining vegetable matter and the fibres broken during carding.

This waste is called noil, while the product of combing is called top. Drawing further reduces the thickness of top by drafting out the fibres, to produce a roving. Spinning further reduces the thickness of the roving and applies twist to bind the fibres together as yarn.

Each of the mechanical processing steps of carding, gilling, combing, drawing and spinning subjects the wool fibre to mechanical stresses and friction. This can damage the wool fibre causing physical breakage of individual fibres, resulting in a reduction in the average fibre length of the wool, which is measured as Hauteur, and an increase in noil.

The friction can cause the build up of a static-electric charge on the wool. This causes the individual fibres to repel each other, resulting in the sliver becoming unprocessable.

Further the wool can lack fibre to fibre cohesion and the web and sliver can then break during processing, causing loss of production time. To enable economic processing of the scoured wool into yarn, processing aids are typically applied to the wool to reduce friction, control static charge build up and to increase cohesion between the fibres. Such processing aids are called lubricants and anti-static agents.

Wool processing lubricants generally fall into one of two broad categories-hydrophobic oil-based lubricants and hydrophilic oligomer based lubricants.

The hydrophobic oil-based lubricants are usually either a mineral or vegetable oil or a blend, which is formulated with surfactants to render it readily emulsifiable in water.

These products tend to have excellent lubricating properties, reducing the coefficient of fibre to metal friction and yielding high values of Hauteur and low levels of noil.

However, because of the hydrophobic nature of the oil, they have inherently poor anti- static properties. To successfully use these lubricants it is necessary to add significant amounts of a separate anti-static agent. These lubricants can also lead to formation of deposits on the cards, which then require cleaning. They are also difficult to remove from the wool and may result in downstream processing problems in dyeing, shrink proofing, etc.

The hydrophilic oligomers are usually alkoxylate or polyalkoxylate materials. They are water compatible (dispersible or soluble) and primarily biodegradable. Because of their hydrophilic nature they are inherently good anti-static agents in their own right and can be used in demanding processing situations without the need to add any additional anti-static agent. Because, typically, they are totally water soluble, the tend not to cause deposits on the cards. They are also easily removed from the wool and therefore do not interfere with downstream processes. However, their coefficient of fibre to metal friction is high and their performance as lubricants is only medium. Compared to the oil-based lubricants they give lower values for Hauteur and higher levels of noil.

It has now been found that end-capped fatty acid alkoxylates lower the coefficient of fibre to metal friction significantly further than other alkoxylate lubricants, and also lowers the static charging propensity of the fibres relative to hydrophobic oil based lubricants.

Accordingly in a first aspect the present invention provides the use of an end-capped fatty acid polyalkoxylate as a wool lubricant.

In a second aspect the present invention provides a method for lubricating wool fibres comprising contacting said wool fibres with an end-capped fatty acid polyalkoxylate.

In a third aspect the present invention provides a wool lubricant formulation comprising an end-capped fatty acid polyalkoxylate.

Since the lubricant of the present invention lowers the coefficient of fibre to metal friction relative to known alkoxylate lubricants and lowers the static charging propensity of the treated fibres relative to oil based lubricants, they are less reliant on the presence of supplementary agents, such as anti-static agents. Also, since the lubricant of the present invention is water soluble as well as being soluble in the lanolin which remains on the surface of the wool fibres after scouring, it is easily removed following treatment. It is also possible that the lubricants of the present invention can be used in lower quantities than current alkoxylated lubricants. Without wishing to be limited by theory, it is believed that the end-capping of the polyalkoxylated fatty acid helps soften the lanolin thereby improving the lubricity. It is also believed that the water solubility of the lubricant helps retain moisture on the fibres, thereby assisting in the dissipation of static charges.

The polyalkoxylate fatty acid is preferably end-capped with a Cl-Cl0 straight chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group. More preferably the end-cap group is a methyl, ethyl or 2-ethylhexyl group, most preferably a methyl group. Optional substituents on the alkyl include hydroxy, Cl 3 alkoxy and halo groups The fatty acid may be any suitable optionally substituted, straight chain, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C1-C24 fatty acid. Examples of suitable fatty acids include straight chain and branched saturated fatty acids, straight chain or branched mono or polyunsaturated fatty acids, fatty acids with acetylenic bonds, oxygenated fatty acids and alicyclic fatty acids. Specific examples of fatty acids include: straight chain fatty acids, such as caproic acids, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid,

capric acid, undecylic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behemic acid and lignoceric acid, branched fatty acids, such as the iso acids, e. g. isostearic and isooctanoic acids, and anteiso acids, derivable from wool wax, butter or mutton fat, monounsaturated fatty acids, such as 2-hexenoic acid, caproleic acid, obtusitic acid, undecylenic, linderic acid, cis-5-dodecenoic acid, cis-9-dodecanoic acid, tzuzeic acid, physeteric acid, myristoleic acid, cis-6-pentadecanoic acid, cis-6- hexadecenoic acid, palmitoleic, cis-11-hexadecenoic acid, petroselinic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, asclepic acid, vaccenic acid, cis-5-eicosenoic acid, gadoleic acid, cis-11-eicosenoic acid, cetoleic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid and selacholeic acid, polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as sorbic acid, trans-2-cis-4-decadienoic acid, cis- 2-cis-4-dodecadienoic acid, trans-3-cis-9-octadecadienoic acid, trans-5-cis-9- octadecadienoic acid, cis-5-cis-11-octadecadienoic acid, linoleic acid, trans-1-trans- 12-octadecadienoic acid, cis-I1-cis-14-eicosodienoic acid, cis-5-cis-13- docosodienoic acid, hivagonic acid, cis-7, cis-10, cis-13-hexadecatrienoic acid, oc- eleostearic acid, p-eleostearic acid, puricic acid, linolenic acid, y-linoleic acid, cis- l l-cis-14, cis-17-eicosakienoic acid, 8,11, 14-eicosatrienoic acid, 7,10, 13- docosatrienoic acid, 8,11, 14-docosatrienoic acid, 4,8, 11, 14-hexadecatetraenoic acid, 6,9, 12,15-hexadecatetraenoic acid, moroctic acid, stearidonic acid, parinaric acid, arachidonic acid, 4,8, 12,16-eicosatetraenoic acid, 4,7, 10,13-docosatetraenoic acid, 7,10, 13, 16-docosatetraenoic acid, 8,12, 16,19-docosatetraenoic acid, 4,8, 12,15, 18-eicosapentenoic acid, clupadonic acid and 4,8, 12,15, 18,21- tetracosahexaenoic acid, fatty acids with acetylenic bonds, such as tariric acid, stearolic acid, crepenyric acid, ximenynic acid and isanic acid,

oxygenated fatty acids such as (-)-3D-hydroxydecanoic acid, sabinic acid, 2- hydroxytetradecanoic acid, ipurolic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, jalapinolic acid, juniperic acid, ambrettolic acid, ustilic A acid, aleuritic acid, 2- hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 18-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 9,10-dihydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 9-hydroxy-12-octadecanoic acid, ricinoleic acid, kamlolenic acid, licanic acid, phellonic acid, cerebronic acid and 2-hydroxy- 15-tetracosenoic acid, and alicyclic fatty acids, such as malvalic acid, sterculic acid, hydnocurpic acid, chaulmoogric acid, and gorlic acid.

The fatty acids/esters may be alkoxylated using any suitable alkylene oxide or polyallcylene oxide. Preferably the alkylene oxide is ethylene oxide or prophylene oxide or a mixture thereof. Similarly, it is preferred that the polyalkylene oxide is polyethylene oxide, polypropylene oxide or a random or block copolymer thereof. More preferably the alkylene oxide is ethylene oxide and the polyalkylene oxide is polyethylene oxide. The composition of the invention is water compatible, by which is meant that, at a concentration of at least 1% by weight, the composition is either soluble in water, or the composition is readily dispersible in water to form a colloidal or near colloidal dispersion or emulsion. Usually the individual components of the composition are themselves water compatible, but components which are not themselves water compatible may be solubilised by other components of the composition so that the overall composition is water compatible. Desirably, the end-capped hydrocarbyl or fatty acid polyoxyalkylene derivatives or end-capped EO/PO block or random copolymers used in the present invention are water soluble. As those skilled in the art know, numbers of repeat units in polymers, including the numbers of alkylene oxide residues, in the polymers and chains referred to herein are average values which may be non-integral.

The end-capped fatty acid polyalkoxylate may be prepared using any method lcnown in the art. According to one process an end-capped polyalkylene oxide is first prepared by reacting an alcohol, such as methanol, with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide:

R1OH + nAO R'0 (AO) nH where R is an optionally substituted straight chain or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, AO is an alkylene oxide unit and n is from 3 to 40, preferably 6 to 20, most preferably 7 to 14.

The end-capped polyalkylcne oxide is then reacted with a fatty acid or ester thereof in the presence of a base to provide the end-capped fatty acid polyalkoxylate : R2CO2R3 + R'O (AO) nH 4 R2CO2 (AO) nRl + R30H where R2 is the hydrocarbyl residue of an optionally substituted straight chain, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated fatty acid and R3 is H, or an optionally substituted, straight chain or branched saturated or unsaturated Cl-C6 alkyl group. The base may be any base capable of catalysing or promoting the transesterification reaction, for example sodium methoxide.

According to another process the end-capped fatty acid polyalkoxylate is prepared by an ester insertion process using a suitable catalyst. For example, a fatty acid ester of formula R2C02R3 is reacted with an alkylene oxide in the presence of a catalyst, such as hydrotalcite or a mixed metal oxide, such as lanthanum titanate, to produce the desired end-capped fatty acid polyalkoxylate : catalyse R2C02R3+ nA0 (AO) nR Other processes for preparing the end-capped fatty acid polyalkoxylates would be known to those skilled in the art.

The number and nature of the alkylene oxide units is preferably selected to provide good water solubility, while the fatty acid is selected to provide good solubility in the lanolin on the surface of the wool fibres.

The lubricants of the present invention may be used alone or in combination with water and/or other components to form a lubricant formulation. Other components which may be included in lubricant formulations include surfactants and/or antistatic agents, such as quatemary ammonium surfactants or phosphates, and cohesion additives, such as relatively high molecular weight ethylene propylene oxide co-polymers. Other additives may include inhibitors and viscosity control agents, such as glycol ethers or alkanol alkoxylate.

It has also been found to be particularly advantageous to include some fatty acid ester in the formulation. This fatty acid ester may be an end-capped fatty acid as described above.

The lubricant of the present invention will generally be present in the lubricant formulation in an amount of from 50 to 99 wt%, more preferably from 60 to 90 wt%. A fatty acid ester may be present, in an amount from 0-25 wt%, more preferably 5 to 10 wt%. An antistatic agent may be present in an amount of from 0-10 wt%, more preferably 2 to 6 wt%. Water may be present in an amount of from 0 to 30 wt%, more preferably 5 to 20 wt%. Other additives may be present in an amount of from 0 to 20 wt%, more preferably 0 to 5wt %.

The formulations according to the invention may be applied in neat form, or may be diluted with water to form a lubricant treatment solution. The amount of water used to prepare the lubricant treatment solution will depend on the concentration of the lubricant in the formulation and the regain of the wool. Preferably the lubricant formulation or lubricant treatment solution is applied to the wool fibres such that the amount of lubricant (end-capped fatty acid polyalkoxylate) is in the order of 0.2-3 g/lOOg wool fibre, more preferably 0.5 to 1 g/lOOg.

As used herein the term"wool"refers to the curled fibrous hair of a mammal, such as a sheep, goat or alpaca. Preferably the wool is sheep's wool. The wool is generally subjected to a scouring process prior to treatment.

Raw wool may contain 20-50% by weight of impurities which must be removed prior to spinning. The types of impurities present in raw wool include grease, suint, dirt, sand, animal excrement, plant material and pesticides. These impurities are removed from the

raw wool in commercial wool processing plants by a"wool scouring"process in which the raw wool is treated with a surfactant solution followed by rinsing. In a standard wool scouring process, a set of rakes moves the fleece through one or more baths which contain a heated (60-70°C) surfactant solution followed by water rinses. The wool passes through squeeze rollers between each bath and finally the clean wool is carried to a hot-air drying chamber. One of the by-products of the scouring process is lanolin which is obtained by refining the extracted wool grease. Lanolin is used in baby care products, cosmetics and skin care products, as well as in pharmaceuticals. Following scouring, the wool is subjected to various treatment steps including carding, gilling, drawing and spinning. The lubricant and lubricant formulations of the present invention are generally applied prior to carding. Lubricant or lubricant formulations may also be applied at later stages, such as prior to or during gilling, combing or spinning.

The invention will now be described with reference to the following examples which illustrate a preferred embodiment of the invention in comparison with some commercially available lubricants. However it is to be understood that the following description of the invention is not to supersede the generality of the invention previously described.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Four lubricant formulations were prepared as follows: (A) ACTIVETM ALN-WS (A mixed alkylene oxide derivative supplied by Huntsman Corporation Australia) (B) HYDRAPOLTM ALN-755 (A polyoxyalkylene glycol ether supplied by Huntsman Corporation Australia) (C) Selbana 4554A (An oil based lubricant supplied by Cognis P/L).

(D) Methyl 1 lEO oleate (74%) + acetate salt of fatty amine alkoxylate (antistatic agent) (5%), solvent (diethylene glycol butylether (7%) + PEG400 (14%).

The four lubricant formulations were tested as follows: (i) Coefficient of fibre-metal frictions The test surface, 1 2cm diameter stainless steel toothed cylinder, was prepared for each lubricant formulation by cleaning and lubricant application. First, the surface was scrubbed with Decon and hot tap water, then rinsed under hot tap water. Two rinses in a 1: 1 mixture of Isopropanol/Methylene Chloride, with agitation, followed. Each lubricant formulation was prepared for application by dilution in Methylene Chloride at one part active matter in 320 by volume. It was seen that some of the samples did not dissolve in this solvent. Similar solutions were therefor prepared using n-Propanol as the solvent instead. This solution was then applied to the previously cleaned surface at l, uL per tooth. A single wool fibre was wrapped through an angle of 180 degrees round the cylinder, prepared with the lubricant under test, and put under a tension of 500 mg. The cylinder was then rotated at a speed typical of the fastest parts of a modern worsted card and the tension in the fibre on each side of the wheel was measured. A measurement was performed in each direction, on each fibre, to account for the effects of the scales on the fibre surface. From the two tension readings, the coefficient of friction was calculated. The test was performed on five fibres selected at random from a stock which has been laboratory scoured and held for use in friction testing.

(ii) Static charging propensity A look of sliver, treated with the lubricant under test, is run between the pair or metal rollers for a set time. The time is sufficient to build up the maximum level of charge capable of being held by the sliver in a standard atmosphere of 202°C, 653% RH (relative humidity). The loop is then cut and the sliver allowed to drop into a shielded container, earthed through a known capacitance. The effect of a lubricant on the tendency of a sliver to hold electrostatic charge is measured as the maximum voltage across the plates of the capacitor. The maximum voltage across

the capacitor system formed by the pail is directly proportional to the charge induced on the inner container by the sliver sample. This voltage is measured on an electrometer.

Using a previously prepared stock of unlubricated card sliver, 500 grams of wool was placed on the floor in rectangular sandwich layers. A solution of 2. 5ml lubricant formulation and 30mls of water was sprayed by hand onto the unlubricated card sliver, the solution being applied more or less equally to the various layers. Thee samples were then conditioned overnight. All samples were gilled using the Inglostadt Gill three times, with a serious of three unlubricated clear wool passes between each different lubricant.

Before testing each lubricant formulation, the prepared samples were stored for 24 hours in a standard atmosphere to equilibrate. The rollers were cleaned of any residue by thoroughly wiping with paper towel soaked in petroleum ether. The system was then conditioned to the new lubricant formulation by running a loop of the sample sliver through the rollers for five minutes. Each test sliver was about 0.8m long and was formed into a loop by passing one end between the rollers, lightly drafting then intertwining and rubbing the ends. Each sliver loop was run through the rollers at a fixed speed for 60 seconds to accumulate a maximum charge before being cut. Five test slivers were used as a check for reproducibility.

The results are shown below in Table 1 Table 1 Lubricant, Coefficient Std Deviation Static Charging Deviation Formulation of Friction Propensity A 0. 299 0. 013 0. 7 0. 2 B 0. 271 0. 023 0. 8 0. 1 C 0. 209 0. 022 6 1. 1 D 0. 233 O. O I7 1. 4 0. 4

Example 2 Three lubricant formulations were prepared as follows: (A) As per Example 1 (B) As per Example 1 (E) Methyl 11EO oleate (75%) + acetate salt of fatty amine alkoxylate (antistatic agent) (5%) + diethylene glycol butyl ether (solvent) (5%) + PEG 400 (15%).

The three lubricants were compared for their effect on the length of the wool produced after carding, following the standard test for length after carding (LAC), and propensity to produce waste. The standard test for length after carding is described by Standard NZ 8719: 1992"Method for the measurement of the fibre length after carding of scoured wool", Standards Association of New Zealand, Wellington, 1992.

To test the effect of the lubricants, two replicate samples of the wool were prepared for each of the different lubricants, then processed through the LAC testing line. The lubricant replicates were processed as pairs, with replicate 1 always preceding replicate 2.

Samples were drawn from the parent mass of wool and randomly assigned to lubricant and replicate. These samples were then arranged in a conditioned room and allowed to come to equilibrium with the standard laboratory atmosphere (20 2°C, 65 2% RH) over several days. All lubricants were added to the wool samples at the application rate of 10% by mass of a pre-mixed 7% solution of lubricant and water. The amount of lubricant applied (0.7%) was appropriate to dry spun semi-worsted and woollen processing. After lubricant application, all samples were sealed and allowed to sit for at least one full day before processing.

To avoid cross-contamination between the samples, waste scoured wool was prepared with water only as lubricant, and processed through the LAC equipment between each lubricant

replicate pair. This ensured each lubricant had the same initial conditions on the equipment. The samples of this extra wool were discarded after processing.

The wool used in the test was Crossbred wool of greater than 30 micron, such as is typically used in woollen processing.

The results are shown in Table 2.

Table 2 Fibre Length After Lubricant Card Waste Carding Formulation (% 0. 2) (mean, mm 2) A 5. 0 93 B 5. 5 98 E 5. 3 100 Example 3 Eight lubricant formulations were prepared as follows: (C) As per example 1 (F) Methyl oleate (65%) + PPG 2250 (15%) + dodecylbenzene sulphonic acid (7.5%) + nonyl phenol (8) ethoxylate (3%) + water (9.5%) (G) Oleic acid 8EO (65%) + polyoxyalkylene butyl ether (hydrotrope) (15%) + acetate salt of fatty amine alkoxylate (antistatic agent) (5%) + water (15%) (H) Oleic acid 10 EO (65%) + polyoxyalkylene butyl ether (hydrotrope) (15%) + acetate salt of fatty amine alkoxylate (antistatic agent) (5%) + water (15%) (1) Methyl 8EO oleate (65%) + polyoxyalkylene butyl ether (hydrotrope) (15%) + acetate salt of fatty amine alkoxylate (antistatic agent) (5%) + water (15%) (J) Methyl 10EO oleate (65%) + polyoxyalkylene butyl ether (hydrotrope) (15%) + acetate salt of fatty amine alkoxylate (antistatic agent) (5%) + water (15%)

(K) n-Butyl 10EO oleate (65%) + polyoxyalkylene butyl ether (hydrotrope) (15%) + acetate salt of fatty amine alkoxylate (antistatic agent) (5%) + water (15%) (L) 2-Ethyl hexyl 10EO oleate (65%) + polyoxyalkylene butyl ether (hydrotrope) (15%) + acetate salt of fatty amine alkoxylate (antistatic agent) (5%) + water (15%) The eight lubricants were compared for their effect on the length of the wool produced after carding, following the standard test for length after carding and propensity to produce waste. The standard test for length after carding is described by Standard NZ 8719: 1992 "Method for the measurement of the fibre length after carding of scoured wool", Standards Association of New Zealand, Wellington, 1992.

To test the effect of the lubricants, two replicate samples of the wool were prepared for each of the different lubricants, then processed through the LAC testing line. The lubricant replicates were processed as pairs, with replicate 1 always preceding replicate 2.

Samples were drawn from the parent mass of wool and randomly assigned to lubricant and replicate. These samples were then arranged in a conditioned room and allowed to come to equilibrium with the standard laboratory atmosphere (20 2°C, 65 2% RH) over several days. All lubricants were added to the wool samples at the application rate of 10% by mass of a pre-mixed 8.2% solution of lubricant and water. The amount of lubricant applied (0.7%) was appropriate to dry worsted and semi-worsted processing. After lubricant application, all samples were sealed and allowed to sit for at least one full day before processing.

To avoid cross-contamination between the samples, waste scoured wool was prepared with water only as lubricant, and processed through the LAC equipment between each lubricant replicate pair. This ensured each lubricant had the same initial conditions on the equipment. The samples of this extra wool were discarded after processing.

The wool used in the test was fine merino wool, such is typically used in worsted processing.

After carding, the samples were gilled into sliver for measurement on the almeter.

The results are shown in Table 3.

Table 3 Card Waste Fibre Length After Carding Lubricant (% 0.2) (mean, mm 2) Formulation Replicate Replicate 2 Average Replicate Replicate Average 1 1 2 C 2.22 2.83 2.53 75.4 74.8 75.1 F 2.19 1.99 2.09 76.4 75.5 76.0 G 1.98 2.05 2.02 72.5 75.1 73.8 H 2. 25 2. 38 2. 32 74. 5 73. 4 74. 0 1. 95 2. 28 2. 12 74. 0 75. 7 74. 9 J 2.02 2.03 2.03 75.7 76.9 76.3 K 1.96 1.97 1.97 76.9 73.8 75.4 L 2.01 2.07 2.04 75.7 75.7 75.7

Throughout this specification and the claims which follow, unless the context requires otherwise, the word"comprise", and variations such as"comprises"and"comprising", will be understood to imply the inclusion of a stated integer or step or group of integers or steps but not the exclusion of any other integer or step or group of integers or steps.

Those skilled in the art will appreciate that the invention described herein is susceptible to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is to be understood that the invention includes all such variations and modifications which fall within the spirit and scope. The invention also includes all of the steps, features, compositions and compounds referred to or indicated in this specification, individually or collectively, and any and all combinations of any two or more of said steps or features.