"COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING CATIONIC SURFACTANT(S),

ANTIDANDRUFF AGENT(S), LIQUID NON-SILICEOUS FATTY SUBSTANCE(S), AND

NON-POLYMERIC THICKENING AGENT(S)"

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition particularly for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, one or more antidandruff agent, one or more liquid non-siliceous fatty substances, and one or more non-polymeric thickening agent.

Many cosmetic care products are known in the field of hair hygiene. For example, the purpose of the corresponding compositions is to impart good cosmetic properties to the hair.

Conventional care products for keratin materials and in particular for the hair and scalp, for example conditioners or masks, are usually in the form of more or less viscous creams.

In addition, haircare compositions, whether they are rinse-out or leave-in products, consist for the vast majority of water, surfactants and polymers. These starting materials do not always make it possible to incorporate other desired starting materials, or in the desired proportion. Specifically, such an incorporation may occasionally lead to destabilization such as flocculation or sedimentation of particles.

In particular, the incorporation of an antidandruff agent in order to combat the formation of dandruff may be detrimental to the stability of the composition, specifically to its stability over time, to the adjustment of the viscosity of the compositions and to the deposition of the conditioning agents that may be present in the compositions.

Within the meaning of the invention, the expression "being detrimental to the stability of the composition" means that the aspect of the composition evolves with time, for example with a strong modification of its viscosity, and/or with phase separation and/or crystallization and/or exudation.

Currently, there is a need for haircare products imparting good cosmetic properties such as disentangling, feel, softness, lightness and anti-frizz, to hair, and in particular to sensitized and voluminous hair for example Brazilian hair, while greatly limiting, even preventing the appearance of dandruffs.

The inventors have searched to meet said need and have discovered unexpectedly that the combination of one or more cationic surfactants, one or more antidandruff agents, one or more liquid non-siliceous fatty substances, and one or more non-polymeric thickening agents allows obtaining the searched effects and overcoming the above drawbacks.

In particular, this combination makes it possible to appreciably have good in-use conditions as well as good cosmetic properties as described above, while at the same time reducing the production of dandruff with good efficacy, and to do so in a long-lasting manner. Therefore, a subject-matter of the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, one or more antidandruff agent, one or more liquid non-siliceous fatty substances, and one or more non-polymeric thickening agent.

The composition of the invention may be a leave-on cosmetic composition that controls discipline and treats the sensitized and volumous hair with antidandruff efficacy.

In particular, the cosmetic composition allows to obtain excellent cosmetic properties such as disentangling, feel, softness, lightness and anti-frizz. Its texture is very pleasant.

Moreover, the composition of the invention remains stable over time at room temperature (25°C) and preferably at temperature range between 4°C and 45°C.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular the hair, which consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the invention, and optionally in rinsing.

Another subject-matter is the use of the composition of the invention for the cosmetic prevention and treatment of dandruff.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.

In the text herein below, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, for example in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

According to the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

one or more cationic surfactants,

- one or more antidandruff agents,

one or more liquid non-siliceous fatty substances, and

one or more non-polymeric thickening agents.

The cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made, as quaternary ammonium salts, for example, of: - those corresponding to the following general formula (I):

+

(I)

in which: the groups ₈ to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₈ to R comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from Ci-C ₃₀ alkyl, C^-C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxy(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkylene, Ci-C ₃₀ alkylamide, (Ci ₂ -C22)alkylamido(C2-C ₆ )alkyl, (C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ )alkylacetate and Ci-C ₃₀ hydroxyalkyl,

X ^" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C C ₄ )alkyl sulfates and (C C ₄ )alkyl- or (C _r C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonates.

Preference is given, among the quaternary ammonium salts having formula (I), firstly, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or aikyltrimethyiammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or also to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk;

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline for instance those of formula (II) below:

(II)

in which:

Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives,

R ₁₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C C alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

R ₁₄ represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,

R-I5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C _r C alkyl group,

X ^" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C C ₄ )alkyl sulfates and (C G alkyl- or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonates.

R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R ₁₄ denotes a methyl group and R ₁₅ denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo, - diquatemary or triquaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula (III) below:

2+

^R 17 ^R 19

-N— (CH ₂ ) ₃ ~N-

21 2X ^' 8 20

(III)

in which:

R ₁₆ denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

R ₁₇ is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH ₂ )3-N ⁺ (Rie.)(Ri7a)(Riee),

i6a- i7a, i8a, 18, Ri9, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

X ^" is an anionic counterion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C C ₄ )alkyl sulfates, (d-C ₄ )alkyl- or (Ci-C ₄ )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),

- quaternary ammonium salts comprising one or more ester functions, for instance those of formula (IV) below:

in which:

R ₂₂ is chosen from C C ₆ alkyl groups and C C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,

R ₂₃ is chosen from:

O

- the group R 26

- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated CrC ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups R27,

- a hydrogen atom,

R ₂ 5 is chosen from:

o

- the group _R — J! . - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C _r C ₆ hydrocarbon-based groups R ₂₉ ,

- a hydrogen atom,

R24, f½ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups,

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, r1 and t1 , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ,

r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + 12 = 2 1,

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,

x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, X ^" is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion,

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R23 denotes R ₂₇ and that when z is 0, then R25 denotes R ₂₉ .

The alkyl groups R ₂₂ may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R ₂₂ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based group R ₂ , it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based group R _2g , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₂ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C ₂ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X ^" is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C C ₄ )alkyl sulfate or a (d-C ₄ )alkyl- or (C _r C ₄ )alkylaryl-sulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function.

The anion X ^" is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IV) in which:

- R ₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group, - x and y are equal to 1 ,

- z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R23 is chosen from: the group

methyl, ethyl or C1 -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups,

a hydrogen atom,

- R ₂₅ is chosen from: the group

a hydrogen atom,

- R ₂₄ , 26 and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₃ -Ci ₇ hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci ₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

Among the compounds of formula (IV), examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,

monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 8 by Rewo-Witco. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

Examples of such compounds that may be mentioned include distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl- methylammonium salts, and in particular the methosulfates.

Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 13 .

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Preferably the cationic surfactants present in the composition according to the invention are non-siliceous.

The term "non-siliceous cationic surfactant" means a cationic surfactant whose structure does not comprise any silicon atoms.

Among the cationic surfactants present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose compounds of formula (I) and (IV), particularly cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethyl- hydroxyethylmethylammonium and distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate and distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and better still compounds of formula (I), particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more antidandruff agents.

The antidandruff agents that may be used according to the invention are especially chosen from the families 1) to 11) below:

1) pyridinethione salts, especially the calcium, magnesium, barium, strontium, zinc, cadmium, tin and zirconium salts. The zinc salt of pyridinethione is particularly preferred.

The zinc salt of pyridinethione is sold especially under the name Omadine zinc by the company Arch Personal Care. 2) 1-hydroxy-2-pyrrolidone derivatives represented especially by formula (V):

in which R ₉ represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 17 carbon atoms, an alkenyl group containing from 2 to 17 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group containing from 5 to 8 carbon atoms, a bicycloalkyl group containing from 7 to 9 carbon atoms; a cycloalkylalkyl group, an aryl group, an aralkyi group with an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an arylalkenyl group with an alkenyl containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, aryloxyalkyi or arylmercaptoalkyl with an alkyl containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a furylalkenyl group with an alkenyl or a furyl containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a nitro group, a cyano group or a halogen atom,

Rio represents a hydrogen atom, a C C ₄ alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₄ alkenyl group, a halogen atom, a phenyl group or a benzyl group, and

Y represents an organic base, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal ion or an ammonium ion.

Examples of compounds of formula (V) include 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-pyridone, 1- hydroxy-6-methyl-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4,6-dimethyl-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-pyridone, 1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-6-cyciohexyl-2-pyridone, 1 -hydroxy-4- methyl-6-(methylcyclohexyl)-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2-bicyclo[2,2,1]heptyl)-2- pyridone, 1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(4-methylphenyl)-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-[1 -(4- nitrophenoxy)butyl]-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(4-cyanophenoxymethyl)-2-pyhdone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(phenylsulfonylmethyl)-2-pyridone and 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(4- bromobenzyl)-2-pyridone.

The compounds of formula (V) may be used in the form of salts with organic or mineral bases.

Examples of organic bases are especially alkanolamines of low molecular weight such as ethanolamine, diethanolamine, N-ethylethanolamine, triethanolamine, diethylaminoethanol and 2-amino-2-methylpropanediol; non-volatile bases such as ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, cyclohexylamine, benzylamine and N- methylpiperazine; quaternary ammonium hydroxides, such as trimethylbenzylammonium hydroxide; guanidine and derivatives thereof, and particularly alkyl derivatives thereof. Examples of mineral bases are especially salts of alkali metals, e.g. sodium or potassium; ammonium salts, salts of alkaline-earth metals, such as magnesium and calcium; salts of di- , tri- or tetravalent cationic metals, e.g. zinc, aluminium or zirconium.

Alkanolamines, ethylenediamine and mineral bases such as alkali metal salts are preferred.

A compound of formula (V) that is particularly preferred is the one for which:

R ₉ denotes the group

R ₁₀ denotes a methyl group, and

X ⁺ denotes N ⁺ H ₃ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH.

This compound is sold, for example, under the name Octopirox (1-hydroxy-4-methyl- 6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-pyridone, monoethanolamine salt) by the company Hoechst.

3) 2,2'-dithiobis(pyridine N-oxide) of formula (VI):

The compounds of formula (VI) may be introduced into the compositions in the form of mineral salts. An example of a mineral salt is magnesium sulfate.

4) the trihalocarbamides especially of formula (VII) below: (VII) in which Z represents a halogen atom such as chlorine or a C C ₄ trihaloalkyl group as CF ₃ ;

5) triclosan, represented by formula (VIII):

6) azole compounds such as climbazole, ketoconazole, clotrimazole, econazole, isoconazole and miconazole.

7) antifungal polymers such as amphotericin B or nystatin. 8) selenium sulfides, in particular those of formula S _x Se _8-x , x ranging from 1 to 7.

9) ellagic acid, its ethers, and the salts of ellagic acid or the salts of ellagic acid ethers.

10) extracts of one or more non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria. The bacterial extracts that may be used according to the invention will be chosen from non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria as defined according to the classification in Bergey's Manual of Systemic Bacteriology, volume 3, section 23, 9th edition 1989.

Among the bacteria that may be used, mention will be made more particularly of bacteria belonging to the order Beggiatoales, and especially bacteria belonging to the genus

Beggiotoa, for instance various strains of Beggiotoa alba. According to the definition, B. alba corresponds to the former names Beggiotoa arachnoidea, B. gigantea, B. leptomiformis, B. minima and B. mirabilis of Bergey's manual, 8th edition. Mention may moreover be made of bacteria belonging to the genus Vitreoscilla, which is known to be close to and often difficult to distinguish from the genus Beggiatoa. The bacteria that have just been defined, and several of which have been described, generally have an aquatic habitat, and may be found especially in spring water sources.

Among the bacteria that may be used, mention may be made, for example, of

Vitreoscilla beggiatoides (ATCC 43181) and Beggiatoa alba (ATCC33555).

Preferentially, according to the invention, the use of the extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis, in particular the strain ATCC 15551 , metabolites thereof and fractions thereof, are claimed.

Moreover, it is known that culturing non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria is relatively difficult, as is the production of pure cultures. Use will preferentially be made of the culture described in patent application WO 94/02158.

The term "non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacteria" means not only the culture supernatant but also the biomass obtained after culturing the said bacteria, the envelopes or envelope fractions, or the extracts of the biomass obtained by treating this biomass.

To prepare the extract according to the invention, the said bacteria can be cultured and then separated from the biomass obtained, for example by filtration, centrifugation, coagulation and/or lyophilization.

The extracts that may be used may especially be prepared according to the process described in patent application WO-A-93/00741. Thus, after culturing, the bacteria are concentrated by centrifugation. The biomass obtained is autoclaved. This biomass may be lyophilized to constitute what is known as the lyophilized extract. Any lyophilization method known to those skilled in the art may be used to prepare this extract. The supernatant fraction of this biomass may also be filtered in a sterile container to remove the particles in suspension.

The terms "envelopes" and "envelope fractions" refer herein to the bacterial wall and possibly the subjacent membranes.

11) other antidandruff . agents are sulfur in its various forms, cadmium sulfide, allantoin, coal or wood tars and derivatives thereof, in particular cade oil, salicylic acid, undecylenic acid, fumaric acid, and allylamines such as terbinafine.

Even more preferentially, the antidandruff agents that may be used in the invention are chosen from compounds of families (1), (2), (8), (9), preferably from compounds of families (1) and (2) and more preferably from family (2).

The compounds (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-pyridone and salts thereof are particularly preferred.

The antidandruff agent(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount preferentially ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention contains one or more liquid non-siliceous fatty substances.

The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013*10 ⁵ Pa), i.e. with a solubility of less than 5%, preferably of less than 1% and even more preferably of less than 0.1%. The non-siliceous fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and not comprising any siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The term "non-siliceous fatty substance" means a fatty substance whose structure does not comprise any silicon atoms.

The fatty substances that may be used in the composition according to the invention are not oxyalkylenated and preferably do not contain any carboxylic acid COOH functions.

They are liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

The liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s ^"1 .

Preferably, the liquid non-siliceous fatty substances used in the invention are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, liquid fatty ethers and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, they are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty esters and mixtures thereof.

The term "liquid hydrocarbon" means a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 χ 10 ⁵ Pa), which is especially of mineral or plant origin, preferably of plant origin.

More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from:

- linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C ₆ -C ₁₆ alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane,

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as mineral oils, volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as the product sold under the brand name Parleam® by the company NOF Corporation, and squalane.

In one preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from mineral oils.

Mineral Oil is a liquid mixture of hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum. In the United States, Mineral Oil may be used as an active ingredient in OTC drug products. When used as an active drug ingredient, the established name is Mineral Oil. The labeling name in the EU will be, Paraffinum Liquidum, when regulations for ingredient labeling under the 6th Amendment to the EC Cosmetics Directive go into effect. It is known by CAS Nos. 8012-95- 1 and 8042-47-5 and is available in numerous grades and under numerous technical names including heavy mineral oil, light mineral oil, liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, vaseline oil and paraffin oil. A non-comprehensive list of mineral oils and suppliers can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Seventh Edition, 1997, Edited by J. Wenninger and G.N. McEwen, Jr. Any type or grade of mineral oil may be used in accordance with the present invention. Blends of various grades and viscosities of mineral oils are also contemplated.

The term "liquid fatty alcohol" means a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 ⁵ Pa).

Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. In particularly, they are mono-alcohols.

The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.

The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic. More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol, and their mixture.

Octyldodecanol is most particularly preferred.

The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated.

These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.

They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

More particularly, the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.

Oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred.

The term "liquid fatty esters" means an ester derived from a fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcohol that is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 ^χ 10 ⁵ Pa).

The esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C4-C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci-C ₂₂ alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₄ -C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.

Mention may be made especially of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2- ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2- ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and in particular of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates or oleostearates.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Finally, use may also be made of natural or synthetic glycerol esters of mono-, di- or triacids.

Among these, mention may be made of plant oils.

As oils of plant origin or synthetic triglycerides that may be used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, examples that may be mentioned include:

- triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol ^® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil. Preferably, the esters are liquid esters of saturated linear or branched C C ₂₆ , preferably C ₄ -C ₂₂ , more preferably C ₆ -C ₂ o, aliphatic monoacids and of saturated linear or branched C^-C ₂₆ , preferably C ₂ -C ₂₂ , more preferably C ₂ -C ₂₀ , aliphatic monoalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10; most preferably, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived being branched.

Liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols will preferably be used as esters according to the invention.

Isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred.

The liquid fatty ethers are chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.

In one preferred embodiment, the liquid non-siliceous fatty substance(s) is(are) selected from liquid hydrocarbons, for example mineral oil, liquid fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid non-siliceous fatty substance(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-polymeric thickening agents as other essential ingredient.

Preferably, the nonpolymeric thickening agents may be chosen from non-liquid fatty alcohols and non-liquid fatty esters at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013*10 ⁵ Pa).

The term "non-liquid" means a solid compound or a compound that has a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s ^"1 .

More preferably the nonpolymeric thickening agents of the invention are solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013*10 ⁵ Pa).

The non-liquid fatty alcohols are non oxyalkylelnatedand non glycerolated. They are particularly chosen from fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, with C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ linear alkyl chains, more preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂ 4 linear alkyl chains. The non-liquid fatty alcohols that may be used include stearyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, mixtures of stearyl alcohol and of cetyl alcohol are used.

The non-liquid and preferably solid fatty esters are in particular selected from esters of linear or branched, more preferably linear, C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ , preferentially C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols and of linear or branched, more preferably linear, Cio-C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂ fatty acids, such as cetyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, cetyl myristate. myristyl myristate and stearyl myristate, and mixtures thereof. In one particular embodiment, the at least one non-polymeric thickening agent is chosen from non-liquid fatty alcohols.

Nonpolymeric thickening agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 20%, preferentially from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise one or more silicones and preferably amino silicones.

The term "amino silicone" is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprise(s) in its (their) structure at least 4 silicon atoms.

The amino silicones used in the composition according to the present invention can be chosen from:

(a) the compounds corresponding to formula (IX) below:

( ^ams-a-SilOSiiTizln-lOSinbiR^-blm-OSin^a-iR^a (IX) in which:

T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or Ci-C ₈ alkyl group, and preferably methyl, or a C C ₈ alkoxy, preferably methoxy,

a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0,

b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular ,

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10,

R is a monovalent group of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-N(R ² )-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N(R ² ) ₂ ,

-N(R ² ) ₂ ,

-N ⁺ (R ² ) ₃ Q-,

-N ⁺ (R )(H) ₂ Q\

-N ⁺ (R ² ) ₂ HQ ^' ,

-N(R ² )-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R ² )(H) ₂ CT,

in which R ² may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C _r C ₂₀ alkyl group, and Q ^" represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (IX) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (X) below:

(X) in which R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C4 alkyl group, preferably CH ₃ ; a C C alkoxy group, preferably methoxy; or OH; A represents a linear or branched, C ₃ -C ₈ and preferably C ₃ -C ₆ alkylene group; m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.

According to a first possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, represent a C C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyl group, A represents a C ₃ alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately. Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones".

According to a second possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, each represent a C C ₄ alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" is an alkoxy group and A represents a C ₃ alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 0 ⁶ . More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product Belsil® ADM 652 sold by the company Wacker.

According to a third possibility, R and R", which are different, each represent a alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" being an alkoxy group, R' representing a methyl group and A representing a C ₃ alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously is equal to 1/0.95. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

More particularly, mention may be made of the product Fluid WR® 1300 sold by the company Wacker. It should be noted that the molecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, μ styragem columns, eluent THF, flow rate of 1 mm/minute, 200 μΙ of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV- metry).

A product corresponding to the definition of formula (IX) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (XI) below:

CH. CH,

I I

(CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO - -SiO SiO— -Si(CH, 3)'3

I I

CH, CH,

I

CHCH

II

CH '2

I

NH

m

(CH ₂ ) ₂

NH,

(XI)

in which n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (IX). Such compounds are described, for example, in patent EP 95238. A compound of formula (IX) is sold, for example, under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.

(b) the compounds corresponding to formula (XII) below:

in which:

R ³ represents a C _r C ₁₈ monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in particular a C C ₁₈ alkyl or C ₂ -Ci ₈ alkenyl group, for example methyl,

R ⁴ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a C Ci ₈ alkylene group or a divalent Ci-C ₁₈ , and for example C C ₈ , alkylenoxy group,

Q ^" is a halide ion, in particular chloride;

r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50. Such compounds are described more particularly in patent US 4 185 087.

A compound falling within this category is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56;

c quaternary ammonium silicones especially of formula (XIII):

R _e

in which:

R ⁷ , which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a CrC ₁₈ alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,

R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular a Ci-Ci ₈ alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Ci ₈ , and for example Ci-C ₈ , alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond,

R ₈ , which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-C ₁₈ alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl group or a group -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ ;

X ^" is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);

r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530 974. d) the amino silicones of formula XIV):

(XIV) in which:

- Ri, R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, each denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,

- R ₅ denotes a C C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, W

20

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

- x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.

When these compounds are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.

By way of example, use may be made of the product sold under the name Cationic

Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to the amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant, namely trimethylcetylammonium chloride, and a nonionic surfactant of formula known under the CTFA name Trideceth-12.

Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (XI) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: C ₈ Hi ₇ -C ₆ H4-(OCH ₂ CH ₂ )4o-OH, known under the CTFA name Octoxynol-40, a second nonionic surfactant of formula: C ₁₂ H25-(OCH2-CH ₂ )6- OH, known under the CTFA name isolaureth-6, and propylene glycol.

Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Wacker-Belsil ADM LOG 1 , sold by the company Wacker, comprising, in microemulsion form, an amodimethicone of formula (X) in combination with Trideceth-5 and Trideceth-10.

Other amino silicones can be used in the context of the invention, such as the product referenced in the CTFA dictionary under the name Polysilicone-9.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from amino silicones corresponding to formula (IX) and even more particularly from the amino silicones of formula (X) or (XI).

When they are present in the composition according to the invention, the silicone(s) and particularly the amino silicone(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10%, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous.

The term "anhydrous" refers to a composition not containing any added water, i.e. a composition in which the water that may be present comes only from the water of crystallization or of adsorption of the starting materials. In any event, an anhydrous composition contains less than 5% by weight of water and preferably less than 1 % by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is aqueous and comprises at least 30% by weight of water and preferably at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. When the composition of the invention is aqueous, its pH is generally between 2 and 9 and in particular between 3 and 8. Preferably, the pH is less than 7. Even more preferentially, it ranges from 3 to 6, most preferably from 3.5 to 5.

It may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetics for this type of application, or alternatively using standard buffer systems.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives chosen from cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, water-soluble or liposoluble sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, solubilizers, antioxidants, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, anti-hair-loss compounds and/or hair restorers, propenetrants, fragrances, peptizers and preserving agents, or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

The compositions according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a mousse or a cream.

Preferably, compositions of the inventions are creams.

The composition of the invention finds application especially in a wide variety of cosmetic treatments of the hair, including the scalp, especially for treating, protecting, caring for, cleansing and/or conditioning the hair.

The compositions according to the invention may be, in a non-limiting manner, used as hair conditioners.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition may be a leave-on or rinse-out composition, more preferentially a leave-on cream.

The present invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair, which consists in applying to keratin materials an effective amount of a composition as described above.

This application may or may not be followed by a rinsing operation. More preferentially, the application is not be followed by a rinsing operation.

When the application of the composition is followed by rinsing, the leave-on time of the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better still from 10 seconds to 10 minutes.

The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for conditioning the hair. The invention also relates to the use of the composition of the invention for the cosmetic prevention and treatment of dandruff.

The present invention preferably relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for, at the same time, conditioning the hair and cosmetically preventing and/or treating dandruff.

The example that follows, serves to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE

In the following example, all the amounts are shown as weight percentages of product relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition (I) according to the invention, and a composition (II) comparative are prepared from the compounds indicated in Table 1 below.

Table 1

A.M.: Active material

On one hand, the ingredients of phase A are mixed together at 70°C with 50 % by weight of the total amount of water.

On the other hand, the ingredients of phase B are mixed together at 70°C. Phase B is then added to phase A at 70°C with stirring and then cooling. The remaining water is added.

The ingredients of phase C are added at room temperature with stirring. Stability test

There is no significant evolution of the p , the viscosity and the appearance of the composition according to the invention, after a storage of 2 months, whatever the temperature is (4°C, 25°C or 45°C).

Furthermore, there is no significant modification of the pH, of the viscosity and of the appearance of the composition, with or without the antidandruff.

Evaluation results

Composition (I) is applied on natural cleansed brazilian hair.

The composition according to the invention has good absorption and leaves hair malleable. On wet hair after rinsing, the hair are easier to comb, more softness, more malleable, more coated, more hydrated and more lighter. On dry hair after drying, more lightness, more natural effect and more movement are obtained.

The durability of these cosmetic effects is good.