TITLE: Applicator member for applying a product and method for manufacturing said applicator member

The present invention relates to an applicator for applying a cosmetic, makeup or care product to the eyelashes or eyebrows.

The expression“cosmetic product” is understood to mean a product as defined in Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 relating to cosmetic products.

The invention is particularly suitable for the application of a cosmetic product, such as a makeup product, for example to keratin fibres, and notably for the application of mascara.

Mascara is understood to be a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes or eyebrows. It may notably be a makeup composition for the eyelashes or eyebrows, a makeup base for the eyelashes, known as“base coat”, a composition to be applied over a mascara, known as“top coat”, or even a composition for the cosmetic treatment of the eyelashes or eyebrows.

Conventionally, an applicator comprises at least one applicator member that defines an application surface intended to come into contact with the part of the body to be treated. The applicator member has a main body or core, of generally elongate shape, which is able to bear application elements that project from said core.

The applicator also comprises a stem which is secured to a gripping member and at the end of which the applicator member is fastened. The gripping member is generally provided to close off, in a sealed manner, the opening of a container containing the cosmetic product to be applied.

Different types of applicator member for eyelashes or eyebrows exist, for example applicator members known as“free fibre” applicator members or those known as“moulded fibre” applicator members.

The“free fibre” applicator members are generally formed by two arms of a metal wire in the form of a U-shaped hairpin, between which there is disposed a set of bristles or free fibres that are independent and arranged substantially alongside one another along the length of the interstitial space between the two arms of the hairpin. A twisting force is then applied to the hairpin in order to form a twisted core comprising bristles or free fibres gripped between these arms. The twisting of the arms allows these bristles to spread helically, said bristles adopting a distribution in helical layers.

The applicator members known as“moulded fibre” applicator members are obtained at least partially by moulding at least one thermoplastic material, for example an elastomer material, forming a moulded core with spikes. However, such applicator members are produced using complex and expensive moulds. In addition, the need to have to demould the applicator member reduces the possible diversity of spike shapes, and the complexity thereof.

Also known are applicators known as“hybrid” applicators having a flexible core, for example made of thermoplastic material, bearing spikes, and two hairpin shaped metal arms that enclose the core and are twisted about one another, imparting a twist to the core and causing the spikes to form helical layers.

In this regard, reference may be made to the documents FR 2 900 318, FR 2 900 319, FR 2 936 691, which at least partially propose applicators of this type.

Also known is the document EP 1 161 896 - Bl, which describes an applicator device for applying a product, comprising a support made of a first material and a row of application elements attached to said support by a mounting member made of a second material. The device is obtained by overmoulding, two-shot injection-moulding or injection overmoulding of said first and second material. However, the application elements of such device are not disposed in helical layers.

The document FR 2 987 243 - A1 describes an applicator comprising an applicator member having a twisted-core brush and a moulded applicator member disposed on said core. Said moulded member comprises a body that bears teeth and is provided with a longitudinal through-passage for said core to pass through.

However, the shape of the teeth requires the use of a complex and expensive mould and demoulding is particularly time-consuming. As a result, this limits the variety of conceivable shapes for the teeth.

Also known are 3D printing additive manufacturing methods. However, such methods are particularly expensive and there is a problem of safety in the long term on account of the possible molecular exchange between the constituent material of the applicator obtained by such a method and the product to be applied.

Therefore, it will be appreciated that there is a need to further improve applicators, and in particular to reduce costs and manufacturing lead times while proposing applicators that exhibit a wide variety of shapes of application elements. Another objective of the invention is to find a compromise between the loading with product to be applied and the combing/separation of the eyelashes.

One subject of the invention is an applicator member for applying a product to keratin fibres, notably for eyelashes, comprising: a support made of plastically deformable material, and a core made of polymeric material bearing first application elements that project from said core. The core is mounted at least partially around said support. Said first application elements are arranged in at least two helical coils disposed along the longitudinal axis of the member.

In other words, the first application elements are arranged in at least two helices that cross one another in such a way as to obtain a helical spreading-out of the first application elements in the circumferential direction of the applicator member.

In this way, because of the way in which the core is arranged around the support, the radial distance between the end of the first application elements in contact with the user’s eyelashes and the longitudinal axis of the applicator is increased.

The expression“plastically deformable” means any material that is capable of deforming without breaking under the action of external loading and of maintaining the deformation when the external loading ceases.

The core is arranged in at least two helical coils disposed along the longitudinal axis of the member.

Specifically, the twisting of the support brings about the arrangement of the core, and thus of the first application elements that are joined to the core, in at least two helical coils.

Advantageously, the core is overmoulded at least partially around said support.

Thus, the overmoulding of the application elements directly on the rectilinear wire and all around the latter does away with the problems of demoulding the application elements, and it is possible to increase the variety of conceivable shapes for said application elements.

In order to mould the first application elements on the support, use can be made of any synthetic material which is or is not relatively rigid, for example SEBS, a silicone, latex, a material having improved slip, butyl, EPDM, a nitrile, a thermoplastic elastomer, a polyester elastomer, a polyamide elastomer, a polyethylene elastomer or a vinyl elastomer, a polyolefin such as PE or PP, PVC, EVA, PS, SEBS, SIS, PET, POM, PU, SAM, PA or PMMA. For example, the core radially surrounds the entire circumference of the support. In a variant, the core extends around the support through strictly more than 180°.

In a variant, the core could be in the form of a sleeve that is able to be slipped onto the support, extending around the support in particular through strictly more than 180°.

Furthermore, the core advantageously has a cross section with a circular external contour. In a variant, the core could have a cross section with an external contour that is polygonal, such as hexagonal, square or rectangular, or oblong, or else the external contour of the cross section of the core could have a polygonal portion and a rounded portion, for example a circular portion.

The support may comprise at least two arms which are at least partially twisted around one another, the first application elements making more than one turn on themselves around the longitudinal axis under the effect of the twisting applied by the arms of the support.

The first application elements may extend along an axis of extension forming, for example, an angle of 40° with the longitudinal axis of the support.

It will be noted that the axis of extension of the first application elements is not limited to this example and that the axis of extension of the spikes could form a different angle, for example an angle of 40°, with the axis of the support.

For example, the turns of the first helical coil are in axial contact with the turns of the second helical coil. In other words, the helical coils are said to have turns that are“contiguous”, with no axial space between said coils.

For example, the first application elements may have a conical shape, or complex shapes such as closed or open loops, application elements having surfaces that are undercut in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the support or having a complex shape, such as a logo.

The first application elements may be overmoulded on the core or be attached to the latter, for example by adhesive bonding.

According to another embodiment, the applicator member comprises second application elements projecting from the support and distinct from the first application elements. Said first and second application elements are arranged in at least three helical coils that cross one another and are disposed alternately along the longitudinal axis of the member. In other words, the turns of the third helical coil are disposed respectively between a turn of the first and of the second helical coils.

For example, the adjacent helical coils bearing the first application elements are spaced axially away from a helical coil bearing the second application elements.

In other words, an alternation of helical coils of the first and second application elements in the longitudinal direction of the applicator member is obtained.

Thus, an applicator member is provided that has a simple design, is economical and is easy to assemble, with an alternation of the first and second application elements.

The twisting of the arms of the support allows these two types of application element to spread helically, which elements take up an intercalated distribution in helical layers.

For example, the first application elements are spikes and the second application elements are free fibres or bristles.

The spikes are particularly suitable for combing/separating the eyelashes during the application of the product.

The free fibres are, for example, made of nylon, forming second application elements that are particularly suitable for loading with the product to be applied.

A“spike” denotes an individual projecting element.

According to a second aspect, the invention relates to a device for packaging and applying a product, notably a makeup product, comprising a container for storing the product, and an applicator comprising an applicator member as described above, which is able to be inserted into the internal volume of the container in order to be loaded with product.

The longitudinal axis of the applicator member is rectilinear and coincident with the longitudinal axis of the container when the applicator is mounted thereon.

According to a third aspect, the invention relates to a method for manufacturing an applicator member as described above, comprising the following steps of:

mounting the core bearing the first application elements on the support extending along the longitudinal axis to form a one-piece application assembly;

bending said application assembly into the shape of a U defining two arms of the support; and plastically deforming the support by twisting it about the longitudinal axis of the applicator member to form the two inter-crossed helical coils and to keep the support in the deformed state.

Such a manufacturing method allows the low-cost manufacture of applicator members having protuberance or application-spike shapes that are impossible or extremely complex to produce with conventional moulding techniques.

In addition, it is possible to manufacture a large quantity of a starting material formed by the wire and the application elements, for example several rectilinear metres of it, and then to cut it to the desired size, before bending and twisting it. This considerably shortens the method for manufacturing the applicator member.

Preferably, the core is overmoulded on the support.

Advantageously, the second application elements are inserted between the arms of the support and said support is deformed by twisting about the longitudinal axis of the applicator member to form at least three helical coils that cross one another and to keep the support in the deformed state. This then yields an applicator member that has a simple design, is economical and is easy to assemble, with an alternation of the first and second application elements.

The twisting of the arms of the support allows these two types of application element to spread helically, which elements take up an intercalated distribution in helical layers.

For example, before the support is bent, the first application elements are aligned with one another in at least one row, which extends axially for example along at least a part of the length of the core.

Before the support is bent, provision could also be made for the core to bear two or more rows of first application elements, the two rows being, for example, diametrically opposed.

According to one embodiment, before the support is bent, the first application elements may be disposed in the form of a single group of first application elements.

According to another embodiment, before the support is bent, the first application elements are disposed in the form of at least one first group and at least one second group of first application elements, the first group being spaced apart axially from the second group by an axial distance greater than the axial distance separating two first application elements of one and the same group. The first application elements of one and the same group could be mutually identical and the first application elements of two different groups could have different shapes.

The first application elements of one and the same group could also not be mutually identical.

For example, before the support is bent, the first application elements extend radially on just one side of said support.

After the unitary assembly has been bent and before it is twisted, the first application elements may be disposed in two diametrically opposed rows.

In instances in which there are second application elements, two diametrically opposed rows of second application elements are also obtained, these being arranged substantially perpendicular to the rows of the first application elements.

The present invention will be better understood from studying the detailed description of embodiments that are given by way of entirely non-limiting examples and are illustrated by the appended drawings, in which:

[Fig. 1] is a schematic view in longitudinal section of a packaging and application device according to one embodiment of the invention;

[Fig. 2] shows, in isolation, a view in transverse cross section of an applicator member of the device of Figure 1, after a core has been mounted on a support and before said support is bent;

[Fig. 3] shows the applicator member of Figure 2 after the support has been bent and before said support is twisted;

[Fig. 4] shows the applicator member of Figure 3 after said support has been twisted; [Fig. 5] is a perspective illustration of an applicator member according to a second exemplary embodiment of the invention, after a core has been mounted on a support and said support has been bent, but before said support is twisted;

[Fig. 6] shows a perspective view of the applicator member of Figure 5 after said support has been twisted;

[Fig. 7] shows, in isolation, a view in transverse cross section of an applicator member according to another embodiment, after the support has been bent and before said support is twisted;

[Fig. 8] shows a perspective view of the applicator member of Figure 7 after said support has been twisted; [Fig. 9] shows a perspective view of an applicator member according to another embodiment, after the support has been bent and after said support has been twisted; [Fig. 10 A]

[Fig. 10B]

[Fig. IOC]

[Fig. 10D]

[Fig. 10E]

[Fig. 10F] show different shapes of the first application elements.

Figure 1 shows a device 1 for packaging and applying a product, comprising a container 2 delimiting an internal volume 2a containing a product to be applied to a user’s eyelashes and/or eyebrows, for example a cosmetic makeup product such as mascara or a care product. The device 1 for packaging and applying a product also comprises an applicator or application device 3 for applying said product.

The container 2 extends along a longitudinal overall axis C1-CG, shown in a position presumed to be vertical. The body of the container 2 is provided with a closed lower end 4 forming a bottom and an upper end 5 forming a neck provided with an opening 7, opposite the lower end 4, allowing access to the internal volume 2a containing the product. In a variant, provision could be made for the body of the container not to comprise a neck and for the opening to be made in a free edge of said container.

In the embodiment illustrated, the neck 5 has an outside diameter smaller than the outside diameter of the body of the container 2 and comprises, on its outer surface, a thread 5a. The body of the container 2 may be made, for example, of rigid synthetic material.

The application device 3 or applicator extends along a longitudinal overall axis X2-X2’, shown in a position presumed to be vertical, that is coincident with the axis C1-CG in Figure 1. The application device 3 comprises a gripping member 7, a stem 8, a wiping member or wiper 9 and an applicator member 10.

The gripping member 7 has a tubular mounting skirt 7a and a transverse wall 7b that extends substantially perpendicularly to the axis X2-X2’ and is attached to the mounting skirt 7a. The mounting skirt 7a comprises a threaded inner surface 7c that is intended to be screwed onto the thread 5a on the neck of the container 2.

The stem 8 comprises a first end fastened to the applicator member 10 and a second end fastened to the gripping member 7. In the example illustrated, the stem 8 has a circular cross section more or less along its entire length. In a variant, other shapes could be provided for the cross section of the stem, for example a polygonal shape, such as a square or rectangular shape, or even an oval shape, etc.

The stem 8 and the gripping member 7 may be produced in one piece, for example by injection moulding a plastics material, to which the applicator member 10 is then attached. Provision could be made for the stem to be fastened to the gripping member by any other means, for example by adhesive bonding, screwing, etc.

As illustrated in Figure 1, the wiping member 9 comprises a cylindrical body 9a with an outside diameter substantially the same as the inside diameter of the neck 5 of the container 2. The body is delimited by two opposite ends, with one of the ends being in radial contact with the outer surface of the stem 8. The body 9a comprises, on its outer surface, a member 9b for retaining it on the container 2, for example in the form of an annular bulge that is snap-fitted in a complementary shape on the container 2

The wiping member 9 also has, at a first free end of the body, an annular wiping lip 9c, defining with its free end a wiping orifice 9d with a substantially circular cross section. This wiping lip 9c extends in the direction of the stem 8 and is dimensioned so as to press at least against the stem 8, or even also against the applicator member 10 as the applicator is removed from the container. The wiping lip 9c in this case extends obliquely with respect to the body 9a towards the axis X2-X2’.

The inside diameter of the orifice 9d is preferably less than or equal to the outside diameter of the stem 8, so as to prevent the product contained in the container 2 from escaping to a space delimited between the stem and the mounting skirt 7a of the gripping member 7 of the application device 3.

The body 9a of the wiping member 9 comprises, at a second end opposite the first end, an annular flange 9e having an outside diameter substantially equal to the inside diameter of the mounting skirt 7a of the gripping member 7 of the application device 3. After the application device 3 has been joined to the container 2, the flange 9e bears axially against the neck 5 of the container.

The wiping member 9 may be made for example of an elastomer material or a polyolefin, notably polyethylene or any other plastics material. The wiping lip 9c is, for example, more flexible than the body 9a of the wiping member 9.

As illustrated in Figures 2 to 4, the applicator member 10 comprises a support 12 that is elongate along the longitudinal axis X-X’, and a main body or core 14 bearing first application elements or spikes 16. The core 14 and the spikes 16 form a unitary application part 11.

The core 14 is made of polymeric material, notably thermoplastic polymer, which is overmoulded on said support 12 so as to entirely surround said support 12. As an alternative, the core could be in the form of a sleeve fitted on the support.

For the application part 11, use could be made of any synthetic material which is or is not relatively rigid, for example SEBS, a silicone, latex, a material having improved slip, butyl, EPDM, a nitrile, a thermoplastic elastomer, a polyester elastomer, a polyamide elastomer, a polyethylene elastomer or a vinyl elastomer, a polyolefin such as PE or PP, PVC, EVA, PS, SEBS, SIS, PET, POM, PU, SAM, PA or PMMA.

The spikes 16 are moulded with the core 14 and extend radially from the core 14 on just one side thereof. The spikes 16 could also be attached to the core, for example by adhesive bonding, rather than being overmoulded directly thereon.

A“spike” denotes an individual projecting element. The spikes 16 form first application elements that are particularly suitable for combing/separating the eyelashes during the application of the product.

As illustrated, the spikes 16 are aligned with one another in at least one row, which extends axially for example along substantially the entire length of the core 14. As an alternative, two or more groups of spikes that are aligned and spaced or not spaced apart by an axial distance greater than the axial distance between two spikes of one and the same group could be provided.

In the example illustrated in Figures 2 to 4, the spikes 16 extend along an axis that forms an angle of 40° with the longitudinal axis X-X’ of the support 12. It will be noted that the axis of extension of the spikes 16 is not limited to this example and that the axis of extension of the spikes could form an angle of 90°, or any other angle, with the axis of the support.

In the example illustrated, the spikes 16 have a conical shape. However, the spikes could have a different shape, in particular have complex shapes as can be seen in Figures 10A to 1 OF.

The support 12 is made of plastically deformable material that is in the form of a rectilinear wire. For example, the support 12 has a cross section with a circular external contour. As an alternative, some other shape of the cross section of the support 12 could be provided. For example, the section of the support 12 is solid or hollow. Furthermore, the external contour of the cross section of the support 12 may have a shape that is polygonal, for example square, hexagonal or rectangular, or an oblong shape. For example, the support 12 may be a metal wire, such as a steel wire.

In the example illustrated in Figures 2 to 4, before the support 12 is bent, the core 14 bears a single row of single spikes 16. As an alternative, the core could bear two diametrically opposed rows of spikes.

In order to produce the applicator member 10, first of all the core 14 made of polymeric material bearing the first application elements 16, namely in this case the spikes, is mounted or overmoulded on the support 12.

Generally, first application elements 16 and a core 14 are obtained that are inseparable from the support 12 so as to form a unitary application assembly.

This application assembly is then bent into the shape of a U as can be seen in Figure 3, forming two arms 12a, 12b of the support 12 and two arms 14a, 14b of the core 14 bearing the spikes 16.

Thus, once the support 12 has been bent, two diametrically opposed rows of spikes 16 are obtained.

A twisting force is then applied to said support 12 in order to form a twisted application assembly comprising the core 14 bearing the spikes 16, as can be seen in Figure 4. The twisting of the arms 12a, 12b of the support 12 causes the arms 14a, 14b of the core 14 to become twisted about its longitudinal axis.

It makes no difference whether twisting is carried out in one direction of twisting or in the other.

The application assembly may make more than one turn on itself about its longitudinal axis under the effect of the twisting applied by the arms 12a, 12b of the support 12, forming an alternate succession of helical coils along the longitudinal axis of the core, each containing first application elements.

After twisting, the first application elements are arranged in at least two helices that cross one another in such a way as to obtain a helical spreading-out of the first application elements in the circumferential direction of the applicator member.

As illustrated, the turns of the first helical coil are in axial contact with the turns of the second helical coil. In other words, the helical coils are said to have turns that are“contiguous”, which means to say that there is no axial space between said coils. The embodiment illustrated in Figures 5 and 6 differs from the embodiment illustrated in Figures 2 to 4 only in the fact that second application elements 18 are disposed between the arms 14a, 14b of the core 14 after the bending of the application assembly and before twisting.

The second application elements 18 here are free fibres or bristles, for example made of nylon, preferably positioned parallel to one another as illustrated in Figure 5. The second application elements 18 are particularly well-suited to being loaded with the product that is to be applied.

A twisting force is then applied to said support 12 in order to form a twisted application assembly comprising the core 14 bearing the intertwined spikes 16 and free fibres 16, as can be seen in Figure 6. The twisting of the arms 12a, 12b of the support 12 twists the core 14 about its longitudinal axis and allows these two types of application element 16, 18 to spread helically, which elements take up an intercalated distribution in helical layers, as can be seen in Figure 6.

The application assembly may make more than one turn on itself about its longitudinal axis under the effect of the twisting applied by the arms of the support 12, forming an alternate succession of helical coils along the longitudinal axis of the core, each containing the first or the second application elements.

In other words, an alternation of the first and second application elements in the longitudinal direction of the applicator member is obtained.

After twisting, said first and second application elements are arranged in at least three helical coils that cross one another and are disposed alternately along the longitudinal axis of the member. In other words, the turns of the third helical coil are disposed respectively between a turn of the first and second helical coils.

The turns of the first helical coil are spaced axially away from the turns of the second helical coil. In other words, the helical coils have turns said to be“non contiguous”. However, the turns of the third helical coil are wedged between the first and second helical coils.

The embodiment illustrated in Figures 7 and 8 differs from the embodiment illustrated in Figures 2 to 4 only in the fact that the second application elements 16 have an axis of extension that makes an angle of 90° with the longitudinal axis of the support 12.

The embodiment illustrated in Figure 9 differs from the embodiment illustrated in Figures 5 and 6 only in the fact that the second application elements 16 have an axis of extension that makes an angle of 90° with the longitudinal axis of the support 12.

Figures lOA to 10F illustrate different shapes of spikes 16A to 16F, such as, for example, spikes 16 A, 16C having closed loops, spikes 16B that have open loops, spikes 16D, 16E that have surfaces that are undercut in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the support 12, or spikes 16F that have a complex shape, such as a logo.

The arrangement by push-fitting or overmoulding of the core 14 and of the spikes 16 on the support 12 makes it possible to increase the size of the applicator member 10 in the radial direction compared with a standard applicator. The radial augmentation of the applicator member 10 with respect to its longitudinal axis X2-X2’ allows the eyelashes to be in contact with the product to be applied without it being necessary to bring them closer to the longitudinal axis X2-X2’ of the applicator member 10.

In all the embodiments, the free fibres or bristles may all be identical to one another, or indeed be formed from a collection of bunches of different types of bristle, for example with different diameters, shapes and cross sections. The bristles are made, for example, of synthetic or natural material, notably of polyamide.

The overmoulding of the application elements directly on the rectilinear wire and all around the latter does away with the problems of demoulding the application elements and it becomes possible to increase the number of shapes of said application elements.

By virtue of the invention, an applicator of simple and economic design that is easy to assemble and is capable of having complex spike shapes is thus provided.

In addition, the free fibres or bristles are held securely between the two arms of the support.